The US Food and Drug Administration is planning to propose a ban on certain hair-straightening products, such as chemical relaxers and pressing products, that have been linked to health risks, according to an entry in the Unified Agenda, which lists actions that administrative agencies plan to issue. The agency plans a proposed rule that would specifically ban hair-straightening products that contain formaldehyde and other formaldehyde-releasing chemicals like methylene or glycol. If such a proposed rule is issued, the FDA will receive public comments on it, and after reviewing those comments, the agency will decide whether further action is needed, spokesperson Courtney Rhodes said Friday. “Based on the comments, we might decide to end the rulemaking process, to issue a new proposed rule, or to issue a final rule. If we decide to issue a final rule, we publish the final rule in the Federal Register,” the FDA says on its website. Scientists have long identified an association between the use of hair-straightening chemical products with an increased risk of certain hormone-related cancers, including ovarian and breast cancers, and uterine cancer, particularly among Black and Latina women. Research suggests that about 50% of products advertised to Black women contain these types of chemicals, compared with about 7% that are advertised to White women, according to the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. The FDA is expected to propose language noting that these types of hair-straightening chemical products are also “linked to short-term adverse health effects, such as sensitization reactions and breathing problems” and that “these chemicals are used in certain cosmetic products that are applied to human hair as part of a combination of chemical and heating tool treatment intended to smooth or straighten the hair.” In March, two lawmakers – Reps. Ayanna Pressley, D-Massachusetts, and Shontel Brown, D-Ohio – wrote a letter to FDA Commissioner Dr. Robert Califf urging the agency to conduct a “thorough and transparent investigation” to determine whether hair-straightening chemical products on the market contain carcinogens that lead to an increased risk of uterine cancer. Both Pressley and Brown have applauded the FDA’s action and called for the agency to implement such a ban. “The FDA’s proposal to ban these harmful chemicals in hair straighteners and relaxers is a win for public health – especially the health of Black women who are disproportionately put at risk by these products as a result of systemic racism and anti-Black hair sentiment,” Pressley said in a news release. “Regardless of how we wear our hair, we should be allowed to show up in the world without putting our health at risk. I applaud the FDA for being responsive to our calls and advancing a rule that will help prevent manufacturers from making a profit at the expense of our health,” she said. “The Administration should finalize this rule without delay.” A study published last year in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute found evidence of an association between the use of straightening products and uterine cancer. Among nearly 34,000 women in the United States ages 35 to 74, the study found a higher incident uterine cancer rate for those who reported using hair-straightening chemical products in the previous 12?months relative to those who did not. The study found that among women who frequently used hair-straightening chemical products, the risk of developing uterine cancer by age 70 was around 4%. In women who did not use hair-straightening chemical products in the previous 12 months, the study found the risk of developing uterine cancer by age 70 to be about 1.6%. One woman in Missouri claimed in a lawsuit against L’Oreal and other entities that her uterine cancer was caused by regular and prolonged exposure to chemicals found in the companies’ hair-straightening products. The suit was filed last year in Illinois on behalf of Missouri resident Jenny Mitchell, who was diagnosed with uterine cancer in 2018 and underwent a full hysterectomy. “Our highest priority is the health, wellness and safety of all our consumers,” L’Oreal said in a statement after the filing. “We are confident in the safety of our products and believe the recent lawsuits filed against us have no legal merit. L’Oréal upholds the highest standards of safety for all its products. Our products are subject to a rigorous scientific evaluation of their safety by experts who also ensure that we follow strictly all regulations in every market in which we operate.” CNN has reached out to L’Oreal for comment on the FDA’s plans. Mitchell said last year that she recalls getting hair relaxers around third grade, when she was about 8 years old. She continued using chemical hair-straightening products from around 2000 until March 2022. “As most young African-American girls, chemical relaxers, chemical straighteners were introduced to us at a young age,” she said. “Society has made it a norm to look a certain way, in order to feel a certain way. And I am the first voice of many voices to come that will stand, stand up to these companies, and say, ‘No more.’” Correction: A previous version of this story incorrectly described the status of the FDA’s proposal. from CNN
In 2023, people are embracing their personal style and expressing fearlessness. Here's how to do it. It’s never too late to have a truly fabulous haircut. Yes, hair changes as we age, and you may not have the same thick and healthy tresses you sported when you were 18. But that’s no reason to resort to what some stylists call a “granny haircut.” In the old days, it meant a tight perm and a blue rinse. Now, it refers to any wash-and-wear, low-maintenance cut. But there are endless options to keep things fresh and lively, so there’s no need to resort to a full-on granny style (unless you absolutely want to). Hairstylists point to older style icons as inspiration. “I always think of the women of Advanced Style on Instagram and how cool their hair always looks with their outfits,” said hair designer Luisa Popović. (If you haven’t followed it yet, it’s a project of photographer Ari Seth Cohen that’s dedicated “to capturing the sartorial savvy of the senior set.”) Other stellar examples, she said, include Vivenne Westwood, who died in 2022, and who was famed for her signature bright orange hair. She also cited the “powerful looks” of Michèle Lamy, the raven-haired 79-year-old French fashion designer. “It all just emanates fearlessness,” Popović said. Tempted? Talk to a stylist. If you’re ready for a refresh, redo or bold new direction, stylists have lots of fresh ideas that can make you feel at the top of your style game, no concessions to age required. “A big haircut can really change up the energy in your life,” said stylist Nikki Providence. “If things feel stagnant, sometimes a haircut can shake everything loose.” “When we’re changing our hairstyle, our age doesn’t have to decide whether we go for long or short hair,” said stylist Mahogany Grace. “The health of hair matters a lot in choosing a new style. Try chatting with a couple of professionals to get ideas on how to style it based on its current condition.” “I think personal preference should guide a client’s choices,” she said. “If a client is 20 or 80 and they love a bob, long hair or a pixie, they should wear one. As a stylist, my job is to make each cut unique by bringing a client’s individual features and beauty.’ How to choose the cut you want How to decide which cut to choose? “There’s such a wide range of styles, cuts, colors available, now more than ever,” Popović said. “Spend some time looking online, or at magazines and books, to get inspired, and experiment in baby steps if you’re a little nervous to branch out from your usual.” In terms of those “baby steps,” Grace suggested that it might be a good idea to “reshape your current cut, maybe by adding softer layers around the face” as a good beginning. Stylist Sonna Brado said, “One of the main questions I get from consumers on my Instagram feed is, ‘How do I find someone to look at my face shape and design something for me? I’m 50-something and feeling frumpy.’ Her advice for clients is to follow their own gut feelings, and to find a stylist who can interpret those feelings into a terrific haircut. Stylist Akihisa Yamaguchi believes there’s a great cut out there, just waiting for you. “I definitely think that it’s possible to get your desired volume, texture and have fuller looks, while avoiding something that feels like an ‘old lady style,’‘’ she said. “I love medium-length bobs that instantly give you full volume hair and a nice saddle face frame layer that works nicely for the face.” If you want to cut things short, there are smart ways to go about it, the stylists said. “If your hair has lost ‘presence,’ meaning it’s thin or wispy, a shorter or blunter cut will likely help it to look stronger and more solid,” Providence advised. “A bob can be sleek or soft, but the idea is for it to look intentional.” Popović agreed, and suggested that pleasing yourself is most important: “The bob seems to be getting a lot of slack these days, but I’ll always love a good, sharp bob. It can be so chic. I ultimately think clients should go with styles that make them feel good, makes their hair look as healthy as possible and are maintainable with their daily routines. There’s no cookie-cutter style that works across the board for older clients.” Consider adding some volume with hairpieces. If your hair has been thinning, you might want to boost the volume of your existing cut with some artificial options. “I’m a huge user of hair extensions and hairpieces,” said stylist and creative director Paul Labrecque, who noted that Halo Couture is a favorite brand. Ditto from Popović: “I absolutely love wigs for switching up a look and having tons of versatility without a big commitment,” she said. Labrecque uses tape-ins to fill in where hair has thinned. “It’s great for an A-line bob, to get that sharp point in the front,” he said. “If a woman has crown thinning, I use top pieces, which can be very small and made custom to cover crown splits and recessions.” There are some things to watch out for with extensions, however. “I shy away from poor-quality hair, or hair that’s overly short or long. The most flattering styles to me on older, duller hair sit under the chin and extend no longer than two inches from the collarbone.” While thinning can be a problem for everyone, those who rely on relaxers may experience it more. “If you’ve relaxed your hair for a lifetime, you’re much more prone to hair recession,” Labrecque said. “Plus, weaves and extensions, over time, can hinder hair thickness.” He suggested “a fall, like Halo’s Hybrid Fall, can help. Halo’s version is attached with a thin fishing string, and it can reduce hair stress.” Your styling routine needs an update, too. How you take care of your hair after that great cut can also be secretly aging you. “When it’s overstyled, especially with too much hair spray or teased hair, that can be very ‘old lady’ style,” Yamaguchi said. Providence agreed, saying that it’s OK to be a little low-key: “Let go of high-maintenance styles, and feel free to cut it short or pull it back. Pixie cuts were so cool in the ’90s, work on almost any texture, and can be fun and youthful all over again. I like when there’s a little softness to the edges. Let go of perfectionism, because it’s just holding you back.” And whatever you do, remember that you’re allowed to have fun. “In this time, in this culture, it can be scary to age publicly, or even to evolve,” Providence said. “But I see openly aging as the ultimate show of confidence and independence. The world is more open than ever to all textures and types of hair. It’s a golden age for individualism, if you can see through the standard bland, ultra-polished styles on Instagram. Out there in real life, people are embracing wigs, creative color, locs, braids, twists and natural textures, opening the door to looking however they want.” from HuffPost
10/4/2023 A Guide to Hair Salon EtiquetteA neat haircut has the power to transform the way you look! As a woman who has to visit the beauty salon every 8 to 10 weeks because her layers grow faster than she wants, there are a few things that I have learned and taught myself over time about salon etiquette. They have always saved me from the agony of leaving a salon with a sad face and a bad haircut. Be specific Decide before going to the beauty salon what you want. I have learnt from my personal experience that hairdressers want you to be as specific as you can about your needs and wants, be it a cut or colour. "I don't want my hair to be too short" is too vague for anyone, including hairdressers. Your definition of 'too short' may be different from your hairstylist's definition of 'too short.' Therefore, be specific. Consider saying something like "Take an inch off the length." A bad haircut can jeopardise your mental peace. Therefore, it is very important to give specific instructions to your hairdresser. No hairstylist wants to watch a client leave the salon with an unhappy face. When you are unsure Not everyone knows what haircut we want or will look good on us. If you are one of them, save pictures of some haircuts that you like and show them to your hairdresser. Chelsea Federer, a hair and colour specialist at Fabrizio Salon & Urban Retreat Spa, an upscale beauty establishment located in Wilmington, Delaware, said, "Visual references always help, especially when clients cannot be specific about the kind of cut and colour they want." "Pictures or even parts and pieces of pictures can help your hairdresser understand what kind of look you are trying to achieve and whether it is possible to achieve that look in one visit," she added. Everyone's hair is different, however. Not all cuts and colours you like on Instagram may be suitable for your hair. Save photos for your hairdresser nevertheless, because 'a picture is worth a thousand words!' Go to the same hairdresser Once you have liked a hairdresser's work, go to him/her all the time. People, who are particular about their haircuts, always do this. Going to the same person every time means that you need to give fewer instructions; your hairdresser already knows what you want. Make an appointment, though. Do not just walk into the beauty salon hoping to find your favourite hairdresser sitting idle! Have plenty of patience A particular cut and/or colour may not always be achieved in one visit. Therefore, do not show impatience as stylists work on your hair; you could be stressing them out. Also, visit a beauty salon with plenty of time on your hands. A client-in-a-hurry is a stressor for stylists and colourists. Even after holding patience, you may not always see the look you desired for, especially hair colour. Why?
"There are times when a client's colour and hair treatment history, diet, and medications affect her hair's receptivity to colour, making it difficult or unfeasible to achieve the desired outcome," Chelsea Federer said. "In complex cases, additional treatments and multiple visits are needed," she added. To achieve your desired cut and colour combo, you may even need to wait weeks. However, the wait is absolutely worth it because, in the end, a good haircut and colour will dramatically improve your appearance. Therefore, do not get angry or grow impatient, if you do not see the look you wished for in one salon visit. Tip your hairdresser I have always tipped my hairdressers, be it in Dhaka or Delaware. Tipping is a kind gesture that is always appreciated. Here in the US, the standard percentage of tipping a hairdresser is 15 to 20 per cent of the final bill. Our hair is the only crown we wear every day. To ensure that the crown fits us right, going to a hair salon is a must. However, as a client, just going to a hair salon is not enough, practicing good etiquette and having realistic expectations are also necessary for an overall good cut and/or colour experience. It’s official: Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is no longer a quaint ‘old wives remedy’ — It has surged in popularity, with the hashtag #applecidervinegar pulling in 210M views on TikTok in the past 2 months and 988M views overall. Many videos show users experimenting with using apple cider vinegar in their beauty routines, particularly focusing on how it can help to promote healthy hair. Experts at All Things Hair turned to Google data to find out the biggest hair concerns people are seeking to treat with apple cider vinegar and whether or not it does actually help to resolve them. Dandruff: 35,640 Google searches The greatest number of searches by far were asking if apple cider vinegar can help with dandruff. Milena Prinzi, hair expert at All Things Hair, sheds light on exactly how this fermented apple juice combats dandruff and answers Google users' questions: What causes dandruff and why is ACV a good treatment? "Dandruff happens when a yeast-like fungus called Malassezia gets out of control by feeding on oils on the scalp," Prinzi explains. "The excess of fungus unbalances the normal pH levels on the scalp and disrupts the cell regeneration process. As a result, white flakes, odor and itchiness appear on the scalp. Apple cider vinegar has natural antimicrobial and antioxidant properties and acetic acid, which helps regulate the scalp's pH levels and target dandruff." Which ACV is best for dandruff? "Many versions of ACV vinegar are available, but to tackle dandruff, you want to choose one with the highest concentration possible of acetic acid. Why? This acid will target the unprecedented production of Malassezia, the yeast-like fungus responsible for dandruff," Pinzi shares. "Furthermore, acetic acid will keep the scalp's pH levels in check to eliminate flakiness and itchiness. You also want to choose a version of the vinegar that is raw, unfiltered and unpasteurized, and if you can see the good bacteria floating on the bottom of the bottle, even better." How do you treat dandruff with ACV? "I'm a big fan of ACV as a scalp treatment and have used it for years. If your scalp can handle it straight up to target problematic areas, go for it. I usually dip a cotton ball and gently rub it on the scalp. However, this vinegar has a strong scent, so you should only apply it before washing your hair; 30 minutes to an hour before hitting the shower," Pinzi adds. "For my rinse, I purchase a spray bottle and mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of the vinegar in 8 to 10 ounces of water. Of course, you can adjust these measurements as you see fit and as your scalp's tolerance for the vinegar increases." Hair Growth: 16,920 searches Prinzi is not so convinced on the efficacy of ACV for this condition, saying: "This might be an unpopular opinion, but as far as I know, apple cider vinegar does not help with hair growth. However, apple cider vinegar is one of nature's greatest alkaline and aids the body to balance our pH levels, which means it helps eliminate free radicals in the organism." Prinzi continues adding, "Due to these redeeming qualities, apple cider vinegar is a fantastic scalp cleanser. People have used apple cider rinse to soothe scalp itchiness, remove product buildup, control the overproduction of Malassezia, the fungus responsible for dandruff, and eliminate scalp odor produced by bacteria developed by scalp dermatitis. A healthy scalp is necessary for hair growth, but the regular use of apple cider vinegar doesn't necessarily mean you'll grow long strands. Since hair is mostly protein, eating a high-protein diet might aid hair growth." Hair Loss: 4,800 searches Prinzi does not think ACV would make much difference: "As far as I know, there's no scientific proof that apple cider vinegar prevents hair loss or stimulates hair growth. Apple cider vinegar is best known for its antibacterial properties, which can be applied to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff and dermatitis." Greasy/Oily Hair: 4,320 searches Prinzi confirms that ACV could help with this condition: "There might be a precedent to support this claim due to apple cider vinegar’s natural cleansing properties. If used as a rinse or wash, ACV removes product buildup on the scalp. Since this vinegar is rich in antioxidants and balances the pH, it might control the overproduction of oil on the scalp and, therefore, less oily hair." Dry Hair: 960 searches Prinzi does not think ACV is the right treatment for dryness: "I don’t see how apple cider vinegar can hydrate dry hair because this vinegar has no moisturizing ingredients. Dry hair often needs the help of oils and vitamins to smooth its coarse texture and bring out the shine. If anything, I think apple cider vinegar will make dry hair drier." For more hair advice visit: https://www.allthingshair.com/en-us/ from BeautyLaunchPad
I've been sharing about the benefits of silk pillowcases for almost a decade now. The benefits are not just for you curlies. Check out this article for some favorite choices. My Favorite Hair Care Tool Is a Silk Pillowcase * includes paid product placements, endorsements, or sponsorships My hair didn’t know peace until my partner bought me a set of LilySilk pillowcases for Christmas a few years back. Before receiving this thoughtful gift, I slept exclusively on cotton pillowcases, not knowing that smooth-seeming cotton fabric was, at a microscopic level, the equivalent of sandpaper rubbing against my curls and coils all night (or nap) long. I’d always wake up to frizzy hair, with long tendrils sticking up and out. Somehow I’d missed the lesson other young Black girls received on wrapping our hair at night in silk scarves or bonnets to protect our ends from rubbing against the sheets and breaking off. But when the silk pillowcases slipped into my life, my hair problems were solved. I’d wake up with noticeably less frizz, fewer tangles, and drastically reduced bed head. No more bad hair days, which meant notably better days overall. Although I loved the pillowcases my partner gave me, I wondered how they stacked up to the mountain of other silk cases sold everywhere from Amazon to boutique retailers. In true Wirecutter fashion, I dug in to find out what makes a great silk pillowcase—and whether there’s really a difference between a $90 case and one that costs a fraction of that. Though the origins of silk production are not entirely clear, Chinese legends have it that 5,000 years ago an empress named Si-ling-chi learned how to raise silkworms, reel their silk, and spin it into cloth for garments. Since then, the shimmering gossamer has been used in everything from clothing to furniture to linens, including the soft fabric that Black women have a very, very long history of using to protect our hair. Wearing caps or bonnets at night has been a cultural tradition for at least several decades. Like most Black history, this tradition isn’t well documented, yet it’s a ubiquitous part of our past and present. Even for someone like me, who wasn’t taught to wrap my hair at night, it became increasingly obvious that my curls—which tended to be dry and split by morning—were suffering for it. This happens because certain types of hair—especially any kind of textured hair, including coily, kinky, curly, or wavy hair—have a harder time retaining moisture. Everyone’s scalp produces a natural, waxy oil called sebum, but for people with textured or even long hair, sebum has a harder time coating the hair shaft from root to tip, resulting in dryness or split ends. Silk’s smooth structure absorbs less moisture from the skin and hair, which is why silk pillowcases have more recently been embraced as part of many peoples’ skin-care regimens (something we’ve previously written about). If you’ve shopped for silk pillowcases, you know the prices are all over the map—some are relatively cheap, while others cost upwards of $100. I wanted to find out what you get when you pay more and less. I narrowed my search to cases with three qualities:
With that in mind, I tested seven pillowcases: the Fishers Finery, J Jimoo, LilySilk, MYK Silk, Ravmix, Olesilk, and Slip. LilySilk ($69 at the time of publication) After I slept on seven different pillowcases over the course of a week, my partner was happy to know that the one I found myself continually gravitating toward was the LilySilk 25mm 6A pillowcase he originally gave me. This pillowcase is lustrous and weighty right out of the box. Maybe I liked it so much because I was already accustomed to using it. But what really sealed the deal for me was its condition after the first wash: It assumed an almost matte finish that made it less slippery and more comfortable to sleep on. Most importantly, I wake up each morning with corkscrew curls that feel healthier, more hydrated, and unburdened by frizz. (Though I’ve made multiple orders and have not experienced any problems, some people have been disappointed by LilySilk’s customer service.) Slip ($89 at the time of publication) Even though it has a lower momme count, the 22mm Slip pillowcase is just as thick as the LilySilk. Also made with 6A Mulberry silk, this pillowcase has a satin sheen that didn’t budge, even after its first time being hand-washed. But the pillowcase had a slippery quality that made my head slide off to the side, which meant I had to constantly readjust in the middle of the night. The Slip was also prone to sliding around on the bed, and after a few weeks of use, it looked more wrinkled than the LilySilk. Some may prefer this pillowcase to the LilySilk because of its super-silky features, but personally I didn’t like waking up with my head on the cotton sheets—and neither did my curls. Fishers Finery ($51 at the time of publication) The Fishers Finery pillowcase, also 25mm 6A Mulberry silk, strikes a good balance between price and quality. Though it’s not as soft as the Slip or the LilySilk, this pillowcase still feels luxurious. It’s heavy and not too slick (it’s not as slippery as the Slip), and it kept my hair smooth and frizz-less by the morning. It’s still pricey by cotton-pillowcase standards, but this one is the best I found for around $50 (and it’s leagues ahead of cheaper cases). Despite ranging from 19mm to 22mm, the other pillowcases we tried—the J Jimoo, Olesilk, MYK Silk, and Ravmix—were all nearly identical to the touch. These pillowcases, which range between $21 and $30, were soft, but they lacked the weighty quality of their more-expensive counterparts. And they felt more like a raw, unfinished silk than smooth and satiny. The thin material of these pillowcases speaks loudly to the difference in quality. However, if you’re on a budget and simply looking for something soft enough to reduce friction for your hair, any of these options would be an upgrade from a traditional cotton pillowcase. A frustrating reality of silk pillowcases in particular is that most of them are sold individually, not in sets of two. Because this is such a high upfront expense, maintaining your pillowcases will become just as important as choosing the right ones for you. Silk was initially intended for royalty, and in modern times, it still costs more to fully enjoy its luxury. So far, the benefits outweigh the cost for me, and I think my hair, with its healthy sheen, would agree. from NYT Wirecutter
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