This is a fascinating article so be sure to click all the links.

The History of the Flapper, Part 4: Emboldened by the Bob
​New short haircuts announced the wearers’ break from tradition and boosted the hairdressing industry

(parts 1, 2, 3, & 5 are at the end of this post)

On May 1, 1920, the Saturday Evening Post published F. Scott Fitzgerald’s “Bernice Bobs Her Hair,” a short story about a sweet yet socially inept young woman who is tricked by her cousin into allowing a barber to lop off her hair. With her new do, she is castigated by everyone: Boys no longer like her, she’s uninvited to a social gathering in her honor, and it’s feared that her haircut will cause a scandal for her family.

In the beginning of the 20th century, that’s how serious it was to cut off your locks. At that time, long tresses epitomized a pristine kind of femininity exemplified by the Gibson girl. Hair may have been worn up, but it was always, always long.

Part and parcel with the rebellious flapper mentality, the decision to cut it all off was a liberating reaction to that stodgier time, a cosmetic shift toward androgyny that helped define an era.

The best-known short haircut style in the 1920s was the bob. It made its first foray into public consciousness in 1915 when the fashion-forward ballroom dancer Irene Castle cut her hair short as a matter of convenience, into what was then referred to as the Castle bob.
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Early on, when women wanted to emulate that look, they couldn’t just walk into a beauty salon and ask the hairdresser to cut off their hair into that blunt, just-below-the-ears style. Many hairdressers flat out refused to perform the shocking and highly controversial request And some didn’t know how to do it since they’d only ever used their shears on long hair. Instead of being deterred, the flapper waved off those rejections and headed to the barbershop for the do. The barbers complied.

Hairdressers, sensing that the trend was there to stay, finally relented. When they began cutting the cropped style, it was a boon to their industry. A 1925 story from the Washington Post headlined “Economic Effects of Bobbing” describes how bobbed hair did wonders for the beauty industry. In 1920, there were 5,000 hairdressing shops in the United States. At the end of 1924, 21,000 shops had been established—and that didn’t account for barbershops, many of which did “a rushing business with bobbing.”
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As the style gained mass appeal—for instance, it was the standard haircut in the widely distributed Sears mail order catalog during the ’20s—more sophisticated variations developed. The finger wave (S-shaped waves made using fingers and a comb), the Marcel (also wavy, using the newly invented hot curling iron), shingle bob (tapered, and exposing the back of the neck) and Eton crop (the shortest of the bobs and popularized by Josephine Baker) added shape to the blunt cut. Be warned: Some new styles weren’t for the faint of heart. A medical condition, the Shingle Headache, was described as a form of neuralgia caused by the sudden removal of hair from the sensitive nape of the neck, or simply getting your hair cut in a shingle bob. (An expansive photograph collection of bob styles can be found here.)

Accessories were designed to complement the bob. The still-popular bobby pin got its name from holding the hairstyle in place.  The headband, usually worn over the forehead, added a decorative flourish to the blunt cut. And the cloche, invented by milliner Caroline Reboux in 1908, gained popularity because the close-fitting hat looked so becoming with the style, especially the Eton crop.

Although later co-opted by the mainstream to become status quo (along with makeup, underwear and dress, as earlier Threaded posts described), the bob caused heads to turn (pun!) as flappers turned the sporty, cropped look into another playful, gender-bending signature of the Jazz Age.

Has there been another drastic hairstyle that’s accomplished the same feat? What if the 1990s equivalent of Irene Castle—Sinead O’Connor and her shaved head—had really taken off? Perhaps a buzz cut would have been the late 20th-century version of the bob and we all would have gotten it, at least once.

​ The History of the Flapper, Part 1:
A Call for Freedom
The young, fashionable women of the 1920s define the dress and style of their peers in their own words

 The History of the Flapper, Part 2:
Makeup Makes a Bold Entrance
It’s the birth of the modern cosmetics business as young women look for beauty enhancers in a tube or jar

 The History of the Flapper, Part 3:
The Rectangular Silhouette
Finally, women could breathe deeply when the waist-nipping corset went out of style

 The History of the Flapper, Part 5:
Who Was Behind the Fashions?
​Sears styles sprung from the ideas of European artists and couturiers

Your make up routine may be so dangerous that it leads to cancer, migraines, skin irritation, and reproductive health issues.

According to the Food and Drug Administration, the “FDA's legal authority over cosmetics is different from our authority over other products.” As such, cosmetic products and ingredients do not need FDA premarket approval with the exception of color additives.

To date, the FDA will only intervene as a result of consumer complaints. Therefore, cosmetic companies have extensive latitude in choosing ingredients.

“More than 500 cosmetic products sold in the U.S. contain ingredients that are banned in Japan, Canada, or Europe,” reports New Max.

Interestingly, some cosmetic companies have banned certain harmful ingredients from their products in Europe but still use them in the United States and other countries. For example, L'Oreal has discontinued phthalates (see "Complete Guide to the Most Harmful Chemicals to Avoid" below) in Europe, but continues to sell products that contain them in the U.S.

An analysis of product ingredients by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) reveals that “more than one in five of all products contain chemicals linked to cancer, 80% contain ingredients that commonly contain hazardous impurities, and 56% contain penetration enhancers that help deliver ingredients deeper into the skin.”

Some of these chemicals or petrochemicals are deemed to be safe in small doses. However, there are two key factors that complicate the safety of these chemical ingredients in personal care products.

First of all, these ingredients appear in a wide range of products throughout the household. Since many of the ingredients are accumulative in the body, exposure to ingredients in multiple products can exceed the safe levels.

Secondly, adverse impact of these ingredients is exacerbated when the body is exposed to multiple types of chemicals resulting in a compounding effect on the body. Therefore, avoiding all synthetics in personal care products is the only safe option.

Absorption of harmful substances through skin is far more dangerous than through oral intake. Harmful substances taken orally go through the digestive system where enzymes in the saliva, stomach, and liver break them down and purge them from the body before they enter the bloodstream.

However, when these chemical substances are absorbed through the skin, there is no protection mechanism to prevent them from entering the blood stream. As is commonly known, snake venom absorption through the skin is lethal, whereas ingesting it will result in illness, but not death.
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Given the potential for devastating adverse impact of chemicals on the body, it is important to distinguish true natural products from others that are branded as natural but contain harmful chemicals.

Selecting natural personal care products.

Caution needs to be taken when selecting among the wide range of products labeled and marketed as natural. By branding themselves as “Natural,” “Organic,” “Herbal,” or “Botanical,” many products with complex molecules and petrochemical substances aim to deceive unsuspecting consumers.

Commonly referred to as “greenwashed,” these products have misleading buzzwords in their name, brand name, or taglines on their packaging.

Fortunately, growing consumer skepticism has led to more stringent scrutiny by resellers. In addition, the power of social media is exposing this unscrupulous behavior of many brands. For example, in early 2016, Honest Company Inc. and Hain Celestial Group Inc. announced widespread re-evaluation of their claims of “no harsh chemicals” such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), after a Wall Street Journal report went viral.

When purchasing personal care products, it is highly advisable to perform a thorough evaluation of the brands and their ingredients to ensure that they are not greenwashed products.
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Moreover, retailers can garner the trust of consumers interested in genuinely natural products by instituting, enforcing, and publicizing a rigorous evaluation process for selecting natural products. Embarking on such an evaluation initiative need not be a daunting undertaking, however.
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Definitions and Guidelines.

Definitions. At the center of the evaluation system is the definition of “natural.” The absence of a universal definition has led many organizations to create one to meet their specific needs.

Perhaps, the most comprehensive definition is by Ecocert. According to the international certification organization, natural ingredients can be from four sources (plant, mineral, marine, or animal) with allowance for specific transformations, either physical or chemical.

In contrast, “Synthetic ingredients are considered to be any ingredient, fully or partially stemming from a petrochemical origin.” Adopting the Ecocert definition not only establishes a solid foundation, but also simplifies the evaluation of products and their ingredients.

Guidelines. A structured, but simple, approach is essential in ensuring a resilient system for evaluating products that claim to be natural. Follow these five easy steps to institute and enforce a process that will not only result in genuinely natural products on your shelves, but also allow you to capitalize on the market segment that is keenly interested in authentic natural products.

1. Study pre-existing sources (listed in the following section) for evaluating “natural-ness” of ingredients in cosmetic products.
2. Create your own “natural-ness” evaluation standards. You may choose to adopt any one of the sources in its entirety or create a hybrid based on your company’s specific customer market.
3. Ask your suppliers to provide the entire ingredients list for each product with all unlisted or unclear chemical substances that are usually hidden within some ingredients such as: proteins, extracts, stem cells, fragrance/perfume, natural fragrance/perfume and preservatives.
4. If you're a seller, evaluate your current and future product offering based on your standards.
5. Publish and educate your sales staff and consumers on the merits of your standards.

Sources for creating “Natural-ness” Standards for Evaluation.

There are a variety of sources to use as the basis for creating your own standards. The most dependable ones are listed below:

• USDA Organic Integrity Database. This is a one-stop shop for validating claims by manufacturers regarding organic certification of their products. If a brand and their products are listed here, then it has passed the strictest standards and no further evaluation of ingredients is necessary.
• Natural Products Association (NPA). Founded in 1936, NPA is the largest nonprofit US organization dedicated to the natural products industry (foods, dietary supplements, and health/beauty aids). NPA is recognized for its strong lobbying presence in Washington, D.C. and acts as a watchdog on regulatory and legislative issues. They have a very useful list of prohibited and temporary allowed personal care ingredients.
• Whole Foods Market Premium Body Care Standards. Developed by Whole Foods market to evaluate natural products sold in their stores. They have Basic standards and Premium standards. You may choose to adopt either the Basic or the Premier standard, or some combination thereof.
• EU Approved List of Preservatives. In 2009, the European Parliament and The Council of European Union developed a database of allowed preservatives in cosmetic products.
• Ecocert. Founded in France in 1991, it began as a partnership between European nations, but has gradually expanded to many other nations around the world.  It is the largest organic certification organization in the world. Ecocert primarily certifies food and food products, but also certifies cosmetics, detergents, perfumes, and textiles.
• COSMOS (COSMetic Organic Standard). In 2010, the five main European organizations involved in organic and natural cosmetics standards came together to create a single, harmonized international standard.

​The group (BDIH in Germany, Cosmebio and Ecocert in France, ICEA in Italy, and Soil Association in the UK) created the COSMOS-standard AISBL (an international non-profit association registered in Belgium) in order to define common requirements and definitions for organic and/or natural cosmetics.

Your Complete Guide to the Most Harmful Chemicals to Avoid.

Whether consumer or seller, look out for these key toxins:

• Aluminum. Found in food and cosmetics, mainly antiperspirants, lipsticks, lip-gloss, and toothpaste. Although it occurs naturally, it is linked to Alzheimer’s, other neuro-degenerative diseases, lung cancer, and skin irritation.
• Talcum Powder. It is a mineral, produced by the mining of talc rocks. It is used in baby, foot, and first aid powders; and in cosmetics used as filler and for absorbing moisture or oil. Impure talc can contain asbestos that it is known to cause cancer. However, talc, itself, is also linked to respiratory system and ovarian cancer.

Recently Johnson & Johnson was forced to pay $72M to the family of a woman who sued the company for her ovarian cancer. The jury found that for decades, the company used talc in its Baby Powder and its Shower-to-Shower products knowing that it has a potential to cause ovarian cancer.

• Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde Releasing Ingredients. It is a natural trace compound and a synthetic preservative found in cosmetics. They usually appear as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methenamine, and quarternium-15.

These ingredients slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde, known to cause cancer; allergic reactions; eyes, nose, and throat irritation; interference with skin’s natural oil production; dermatitis; and reproductive system disparity (decreased fertility, increased the risk of miscarriage, and damaged sperm).

It is banned in Sweden and Japan. It is a restricted ingredient in Canada (usage is restricted to less than 0.2%) for skin care products. European countries mandate that if formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetic products exceed 0.05%, the product must be labeled with the warning, “Contains Formaldehyde.”
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• Petrochemicals. Petrochemicals are chemical ingredients that are derived from petroleum, and an astonishing number of so-called natural products in health and beauty stores contain these.

Detecting petrochemical ingredients in personal care products can be difficult as they are usually listed under different names (e.g., Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride) or hidden in other ingredients such as perfumes, fragrances, glycols, and many more.

Petroleum and petrochemicals are known to cause a range of serious health problems, such as cancer and endocrine disruption (hormones interference), clogged skin pores and interference with natural sebum production resulting in skin imbalances, and other medical disorders (e.g., Attention Deficit Disorder).

Moreover, petrochemicals are a leading cause of groundwater contamination. Finally, petroleum products generate 1,4-dioxane that is known for its health disruption effects (e.g., vertigo, drowsiness, headache, anorexia and irritation of the eyes, nose, throat, and lungs). The EWG has found that an alarming 22% of all products contain unsafe levels of 1,4-dioxane.

Avoiding all products that contain petroleum-based ingredients is highly recommended.

• Phenoxyethanol. It is a synthetic ether alcohol and a petrochemical preservative. It can cause contact dermatitis, and damage reproductive, immune, and nervous systems. It has been banned for use in certified organic skin care products by COSMOS, Ecocert, and the new EU organic certification standard.

Yet, many greenwashed companies in the U.S. continue to use it as a Paraben alternative as it's is on the temporary allowed NPA standard list. It is a common preservative in many natural extracts and proteins (wheat, rice, quinoa, etc.) used by cosmetic companies in their products.

Since cosmetic companies are not required to disclose preservatives and solvents that are used by their vendors to make their extracts and proteins, a more extensive due diligence step of asking cosmetic manufactures for the Composition Analysis of these types of ingredients is necessary.

• Mineral Oils. Also listed as Paraffin and Petrolatum is this petroleum derivative ingredient found in drugs, cosmetics, household cleaning products, and baby oils (sometimes at 100%). They are linked to immune and respiratory toxicant or allergen, clogging the skin’s pores, promoting acne and other skin disorders, and premature aging.
• Siloxane/Silicones. Polymers of Silicone found in cosmetics as texturizers. They are used for delivering a superficial silky sensation to the skin. Most silicones are derived from petroleum. In cosmetic ingredient lists, they can appear as Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, and Phenyl Trimethicone.

Silicones stay at the top layer of the skin. Therefore, they clog the skin’s pores and cause acne. Some research findings indicate that Siloxane/Silicones can disrupt the endocrine (hormone functions) system and cause harm to the reproductive, immune, and nervous systems.

• EDTA. Made from coal tar and include Disodium EDTA and Tetrasodium EDTA, they are used for a variety of reasons such as removing impurities from raw materials, as a preservative, chelator, stabilizer, and foam enhancer. Tetrasodium EDTA is made from formaldehyde (see above) and sodium cyanide is made from the toxic gas hydrogen cyanide.

EDTAs serve as penetration enhancers, which means that they can intensify harmful effects of other ingredients in the formula by promoting deeper penetration into the skin’s tissue and, consequently, the bloodstream. Additionally, EDTAs are not easily biodegradable and a poor choice for environmental health. Be mindful of this ingredient as it is used in some greenwashed products.

• Glycols. They appear in cosmetic ingredient lists as Polyethylene Glycols (PEGS), Polypropylene Glycols (PPGS), Propylene, Butylene, Pentylene, Hexylene, and Caprylyl. Found in food, drugs, and cosmetics, they are petroleum-based compounds that serve as texturizer, thickeners, solvents, and moisture-carriers in cosmetics.

The majority of "natural" products contain this highly toxic ingredient. Propylene Glycols have been linked to skin irritation. PEGS can be contaminated with ethylene oxide known as a human carcinogen. Ethylene Oxide can cause cancer and if used on broken skin can cause irritation.

• Benzyl Alcohol. This is a petrochemical preservative and is known to cause severe skin, eye, and respiratory irritation. Be aware that some natural brands use Benzyl Alcohol in combination with other preservatives as an alternative to Parabens. In the U.S., this ingredient is on the temporary allowed NPA standard list.
• Alcohol Denat. It is a denatured ethyl alcohol and a petrochemical product that usually contains Benzyl Alcohol to make it undrinkable. It can cause skin irritation, eczema, trigger rosacea flare-ups, and prevent the absorption of Vitam

• Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol). Also known as Isopropanol, found in perfumes, cosmetics, and household cleansers. It is derived from petroleum. Highly toxic and linked to medical complications and allergic reactions of skin, eyes, mucous membranes, and upper respiratory tract.

It is used to dissolve other substances in cosmetics, personal care, and fragrances/perfumes products. It is also used to decrease the thickness of liquids and prevent foam.

• Ethanolamines. They appear in cosmetic ingredient list as Diethanolamines (DEAs), MEAs (Monoethanolamine), and Triethanolamine (TEAs). They are petroleum-derived ingredients that are found in cosmetic cleansers, shampoos, soaps, and bubble baths. They are linked to cancer, organ system toxicity, and allergic reactions.
• Parabens. They appear in cosmetic ingredient list as Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Benzylparaben. Mainly derived from petroleum, they are potent broad-spectrum preservatives and are cheap and easy to use.

Parabens are linked to breast cancer, hormone disruption, reproductive system disorder, DNA damage, and skin irritation. The use of five Parabens (Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Phenylparaben, Benzylparaben, and Pentylparaben) in cosmetic products was prohibited in European Union in 2014. Parabens have been used by many cosmetic brands since the 1950s.

They are also hidden preservatives in many botanical extracts and proteins used heavily in all types of personal care products. Many companies who claim to be Paraben-free have done so by replacing it with other petrochemical preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol.

• All Sulfates. Sulfates are basically detergents that are used in household cleansers, and personal care products such as shampoos, soaps, toothpaste, and masks. They are partially made from petrolatum or petroleum jelly. Sulfates are linked to skin, scalp, and eye irritation.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are known to cause hormone imbalance, toxicity formation in internal organs (liver, brain, and heart), and potentially cancer. The source of health issues caused by SLS and SLES is in their manufacturing process (ethoxylation) that results in contamination with 1,4 dioxane, a carcinogenic by-product.

According to Center for Disease Control and Prevention, 1,4 dioxane is described as "probably carcinogenic to humans," toxic to the brain and central nervous system, kidneys, and liver. Moreover, it is also a leading groundwater contaminant.

• Quats. They are chemical and petrochemical ingredients that contain a quaternary ammonium compound (QAC). Some examples of quats include Benzalkonium Chloride, Cetalkonium Chloride, Steardimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Bromide, and Cetrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, and polyquaternium(s), Lauryl Dimonium Hydrolysed Collagen, Diethyl Ester Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Dialkyl Dimethl Ammonium Methyl Sulfate, and Hydroxethyl Methyl Ammonium Methyl Sulfate.

There are also milder versions of them that are used both as a conditioner and thickener. These include Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Oligosaccharide, and Sugar Quats.

Quats are used as a hair conditioner, hair styling gel, moisturizers, body wash, etc. Quats hold all the petrochemicals adverse events discussed above. Furthermore, in the U.S., the Association of Occupational and Environmental Clinics (AOEC), classified Quats as “asthmagens,” meaning they can trigger asthma attacks and initiate asthma in those who are asthma-free. Quaternium-15 releases formaldehyde that is a serious health-damaging ingredient as described earlier.

Among quats, Benzalkonium Chloride has been known to have the most impact on natural hormone function disruption and causing reproductive toxicity. In Europe, the Scientific Committee on Consumer safety, based on skin reactions and toxicity, has restricted the use of Behentrimonium Chloride (below 3% in a rinse-off products and below 0.5% in leave-on products). In the U.S., they are heavily used by both conventional and greenwashed brands as a hair conditioner.

• Phthalates. Commonly used as softening agents to enhance absorption of skin care ingredients and to create fragrances, they can be found in color cosmetics, lotions, body washes, hair care products, and nail polish. The most common Phthalates used in cosmetics are Diethyl Phthalate (DEO) and Dibutyl Phthalate.

The latter is used mainly in nail products as a solvent for dyes. Phthalates are also used as a fixative in fragrance ingredients in many other cosmetics. They have been classified as a potential carcinogen ingredient by the Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Health and Human Services.

There are serious concerns regarding their impact on the reproductive system. Phthalates are often hidden from the ingredient lists as many companies use “fragrance” or "parfum" rather than listing them separately.

• Artificial Colors. Found in food, drugs, and cosmetics, artificial colors contain heavy metal salts and are linked to cancer, hyperactivity, anxiety, migraines and allergic reactions. They are even used heavily by cosmetic companies in many so-called “natural” products. Most are derived from petroleum and/or coal tar. They are normally listed as FD&C or D&C, followed by a color and a number.
• Fragrances/Perfumes. Found in cosmetics (including so-called natural products) and household products. They are linked to headache, dizziness, allergic reactions, hormone disruptions, and hyperpigmentation.

Additionally, They are the most frequent cause of allergic reactions in cosmetics. Most are derived from petroleum. Since companies consider their fragrance formulations as trade secrets and listing the chemicals, such as solvents or preservatives, is not mandated by FDA, they are able to hide toxic synthetic substances such as chemical preservatives, petroleum, Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), etc.

This widespread practice extends to natural brands that choose to list “natural fragrance” on their label instead of disclosing the actual substances in their formulations. These "natural" fragrances very likely consist of petrochemicals (e.g., Phthalates) or other harmful ingredients that are used as solvents or preservatives.
If manufacturers are not willing to provide the breakdown of their natural ingredients, it is best to avoid their products altogether.

• Triclosan. It is mainly used in antiperspirants, deodorants, hand sanitizers, facial tissues, and toothpastes as an antibacterial agent and a preservative. It passes through skin and it is linked to endocrine (hormone function) disruption and irritating to the skin and eyes.

Prevalent in so many products, Triclosan was detected in 75% of urine samples (2,517 people ages six years and older) in a study by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Triclosan has been banned in Europe since 2010 but is still used in the U.S. Its use in Canada is restricted (0.03% in mouthwash and 0.3% in cosmetics) and flagged for further assessment by the Canadian Chemicals Management Plan.
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• Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT). Used as preservatives, BHA and BHT can be found in moisturizers, lipsticks, hair products, makeup, sunscreen, antiperspirant/deodorant, fragrance, other cosmetics, and some food products (e.g., cereals, gum, fast food, snacks).

They are known to cause skin allergic reactions, endocrine disruption (hormonal), developmental and reproductive toxicity, and as potential human carcinogen. Some studies also indicate that they may cause organ-system toxicity and impact liver, thyroid and lung health.

Conclusion.

As is evident, there are many chemical ingredients that can cause serious harm to the health of consumers. For this reason, there is a growing demand for products that are truly free of such harsh ingredients. Retailers can take steps to serve their customers’ demands and capitalize on this growing trend for truly natural products.

The first step to addressing this market opportunity is to implement a process to evaluate products that are marketed as natural. Equally as important is to communicate the specifics of the program for evaluating products to the sales staff and consumers.

By informing the salespeople and consumers, this program will not only result in safer products on the shelves but also generate incremental sales by having instilled a sense of confidence in consumers – a true win-win for all.

Fortunately, the work to create and implement this program should not be viewed as an insurmountable endeavor as there are plenty of pre-existing resources from reliable entities to jumpstart the evaluation process.

Some, such as the USDA Integrity Database, serve as an instant validation (or not) of claims made by manufacturers, while other sources require some adaptation to meet your business needs.
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Given the industry trend, it is certain that any effort expended in separating true natural products from imposters will pay dividends for quite some time.

This section is for the "Follically Challenged".  There are so many conversations and articles on the topic and I want make sure you are getting good information. ​

Hair Transplantation is a procedure that helps people who experience hair loss and baldness problems that occurs due to various reasons: genetic factors, stress, and hormone disorder.  FUE Hair Transplant method is a process of relocating hair follicles under local anesthesia with special medical devices from the donor area to the balding areas. In this application, hair is extracted one by one and transplanted to the balding area. Hair should be shortened to 1mm prior to the operation. The surgery is conducted under local anesthetics, so the patient will not feel any pain. Micromotor is used to extract hair grafts; the tip of the motor simply pulls the hair root; therefore, the follicle is cut in a cylindrical way along with microscopic tissue. ​

What to consider before the operation?

Hair Transplantation is a serious practice that should be done by professionals specializing in that field as the output of the operation will be seen throughout your life. Hair transplant procedures should take place at a hospital or clinic with surgeons specialized in their field.

What are the advantages?

FUE method is the most commonly used and reliable method for hair transplant. Advantages of FUE hair transplantation are as follows:

• No incision and suture marks at the site of the operation.
• The process is completed in a short time thanks to thin-tipped devices.
• Natural and aesthetic appearance.
• Short healing duration and opportunity to return to normal life instantly.

Who can get a hair transplant?

Hair transplantation surgery can be conducted for the male and female types of hair loss. Male-type hair loss affects the upper part of the head and the temple area; firstly, hair becomes skinny, and then fall out. Over time, this spill may stretch back to the temples.

Female-type hair loss works in a different way; it involves hair weakening, rarity, thinning and loss in the peak and anterior areas of the scalp.

Who can’t get a hair transplant?

Not everyone is eligible for a hair transplant; for example, it is technically impossible for people who do not have any hair in the back of the head - which is also called the donor area. Also, some diseases such as severe heart problems may be dangerous during transplant surgery.

Cases that hair transplantation is recommended

Another criterion necessary for hair transplantation is the type of hair loss. For example, people at the adolescence age are not recommended to have the operation as their hair loss may continue. However, if permanent hair loss occurs in certain areas of the head as a result of accidental damage to the scalp such as severe burns, these people can undergo a hair transplant under a supervision of a doctor. Furthermore, hair transplantation should not be performed for those with certain diseases due to vital risks such as hemophilia (A blood clotting problem), blood pressure, diabetes, hepatitis B, hepatitis C and HIV.


Where to have the operation?

Skincare specialists The Derm Review analyzed the 100 best-selling natural skincare products to establish how many of these contain synthetic ingredients. The study determined:

• Only 42% of “natural skincare products” are truly natural
• Majority (58%) of skincare products marketed as “natural”’ contain synthetic ingredients 
• Skincare products marketed “natural” are 24% more expensive than “regular” skincare products
• All of the “natural” serums in the study contained at least one synthetic ingredient
• Nearly eight in ten (78%) “natural” face masks contains synthetic ingredients
• “Natural” facial toners cost on average 479% more than “regular” toners.
• “Natural” skincare products contain on average 2.4 synthetic ingredients 

See the full findings from the research here: https://thedermreview.com/natural-skincare-study/ 

Skincare biochemists from The Derm Review analyzed the ingredient lists of the 100 best-selling skincare products containing the word “natural”. The study found that out of the 100 best-selling natural products, only 42 were truly natural. The majority (58%) of products included at least one synthetic ingredient. 

​The average number of different synthetic ingredients used in “natural” skincare products was found to be 2.4.

The Cost of Natural Skincare Products

The study found that the price of skincare products marketed as “natural” were on average 24% more expensive than skincare products that didn’t contain the word. 

​The most expensive “natural” skincare products were facial toners. They were found to cost 479% more than “regular” toners.

Top synthetic ingredients found in natural skincare products

Ethylhexylglycerin is the most commonly used synthetic ingredient and was found in 24% of all the “natural” products. It is deemed safe and is generally used in low concentrations in skincare products however, it can cause minor irritation to the skin and eyes if high concentrations are used.

The second most commonly found synthetic ingredient was Phenoxyethanol which was found in 22% of the products. Like Ethylhexylglycerin, it is considered safe but can cause irritation when high concentrations are used. It is used mainly as a preservative and antimicrobial agent used to help your products last longer and prolong their safety and efficacy. 

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate comes up as the third most widely used synthetic agent and was found in 13% of the “natural” products. While being a synthetic agent, it is generally safe for all skin types, and is a type of vitamin C.

Products containing synthetic ingredients
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Out of the product types The Derm Review looked out, all of the serums contained at least one synthetic ingredient. Out of the “natural” face masks on the list, 78% contained synthetic ingredients, while 58% of moisturizers and 55% of cleaners contained synthetic agents.

Are all synthetic skincare ingredients bad?

No, and not all natural products are good. 

Some chemical ingredients have been scientifically developed to be more gentle on our skin and more cost-effective to formulate. Other synthetic ingredients are processed to mimic bioavailable products that may be rare or threatened in the wild, and are aiming to prevent damage to biodiversity and environmental destruction.

For consumers, it can be difficult to tell the difference between the “good” and “bad” when reading a skincare label. Some long chemical-sounding words can sound “scary”, and many consumers may feel that the product feels safer if they see ingredients they recognise on the list.

When it comes to the synthetic versus natural skincare debate, it is not black and white. However, synthetic products are often demonized, and as a result, consumers seek out to find natural alternatives. Indeed, a 2018 survey showed that the vast majority of people (90%) believe that natural or naturally-derived beauty ingredients are better for them. 

It is important to remember though, that just because something is natural doesn’t mean it’s safe. Some natural ingredients, such as essential oils, could be poisonous if used incorrectly, and many natural ingredients can cause more irritation to the skin than synthetic alternatives. 

Elle MacLeman, Skincare Biochemist at The Derm Review says:

“As we’ve established, natural is not always better, but despite that, consumers have the right to know whether the products they buy are indeed natural or not.”

“Sadly many brands overuse the word “natural” in their marketing in order to sell more products, and that feels misleading and deceptive. Especially as our research found that these products tend to be priced higher while not necessarily being better, safer or more environmentally friendly.”

“I think one of the problems is that the industry is pretty much unregulated when it comes to making claims. For instance, it’s common to see ‘chemical-free’ products on the shelves, but that doesn’t make any sense as even water is a chemical.”

Methodology
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The Derm Review searched Amazon.com during July 2021 for phrases such as ‘natural skin care’, ‘natural moisturizer’ and looked at the top 100 best-selling products that came up within the search results. For pricing, we compared the $ per Fl Oz on products marketed as “natural” with the same type of skincare products that didn’t contain the word natural.

If you've been making your own cold process soap and using it in your shower, how about using your soap as a shampoo?

Many people use their cold process soap as a shampoo bar as well. But hair is different than skin, so you need to do a few things differently in order to have the best results. Most soap makers recommend:
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1. Formulating your recipe differently—both in terms of the oils chosen, but in the additives and superfat percentage
2. Using a vinegar or citric acid rinse
3. Knowing that some people's hair just doesn't work well with real soap—and being okay with going back to a standard surfactant-based shampoo. There are so many variants, like the hardness of the water where you live and your particular hair type, that they just don't work for everyone.

Basic, Mild Shampoo Recipe
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• 25 percent coconut oil
• 25 percent olive oil
• 20 percent castor oil
• 15 percent canola oil
• 15 percent palm oil

​To make a 2-lb batch:

• 5.8 ounces coconut oil
• 5.8 ounces olive oil
• 4.6 ounces castor oil
• 3.5 ounces canola oil
• 3.5 ounces palm oil
• 3.2 ounces sodium hydroxide
• 6.4 ounces water
• 3/4 tsp of salt (to make the soap get harder quicker)
• 1 tsp of sugar (to boost the lather)
• 1 ounce of fragrance or essential oil blend

​Light Cleansing Recipe
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• 30 percent coconut oil
• 25 percent olive oil
• 25 percent castor oil
• 10 percent palm oil
• 10 percent canola oil

To make a 2-lb batch:

• 6.9 ounces coconut oil
• 5.8 ounces olive oil
• 5.8 ounces castor oil
• 2.3 ounces palm oil
• 2.3 ounces canola coil
• 3.2 ounces sodium hydroxide
• 6.4 ounces water
• 3/4 tsp of salt (to make the soap get harder quicker)
• 1 tsp of sugar (to boost the lather)
• 1 ounce of fragrance or essential oil blend

​Luxury Shampoo Recipe
​

• 25 percent coconut oil
• 20 percent olive oil
• 20 percent castor oil
• 10 percent canola oil
• 10 percent avocado oil
• 10 percent palm oil
• 5 percent jojoba

​To make a 2-lb batch:

• 5.8 ounces coconut oil
• 4.6 ounces olive oil
• 4.6 ounces castor oil
• 2.3 ounces canola oil
• 2.3 ounces avocado oil
• 2.3 ounces palm oil
• 1.2 ounces jojoba
• 3.1 ounces sodium hydroxide
• 6.2 ounces water
• 3/4 tsp of salt (to make the soap get harder quicker)
• 1 tsp of sugar (to boost the lather)
• 1 ounce of fragrance or essential oil blend

​To make these soaps, follow basic soap making instructions. The amount of water in these recipes are low so that they will harden quicker in the molds. The high percentage of soft oils in the recipes can make them take a while to harden in the mold.

You'll want to make sure to add the salt and the sugar to the lye water. The salt helps the soap to get harder quicker and the sugar helps boost the lathering ability of the soap.

Rinse

Because of the high pH of cold process soap, most people use a slightly acidic rinse on their hair after using a shampoo bar. The high pH raises the cuticle of the hair follicle, making it more prone to damage. The rinse helps lay it back down.

You can make the rinse out of either:

• 1 cup vinegar (apple cider or white) to 2 cups water or
• 1 tbsp. citric acid powder to 3 cups water

​Give shampoo bars a try. Some people rave about them; some people like them, but prefer a traditional shampoo. 

For you DIYers:

Learn a practical skill, create gifts, and let your creativity run loose all at the same time by taking up the art of soap making. DIY soap is loaded with natural and aromatic products that are better for your skin and the planet. We've gathered 21 easy homemade soap recipes for beginners.

 21 Creative Handmade Soap Recipes for Beginners