from BeautyLaunchPad

When we reach for a new food or skin care product, many of us turn to Google to find out what is in it. We want to know what makes it “good” for us or if it will “work” to make us look better and more youthful. Unfortunately, most people do not do this when picking out hair care products, and our scalp is often given little thought.

Do you know what shampoo really is or why you even use it? Did you know you have a choice and there are many shampoo alternatives that give better results? Find out more about the no-poo method and why ditching the shampoo is not as crazy as it sounds.

What Does the No-Poo Method Even Mean?

For those of you that may not have heard of the no-poo movement, it is the choice to not use a shampoo that contains harsh detergents to cleanse your hair. Whenever I approach this conversation with a new client, the majority of the time they are unaware that using traditional shampoos means putting detergent on a scalp and stripping the oils that a scalp and hair need to be healthy.

Over the years, more and more people have created their own techniques for healthier scalp cleansing and are actively falling into the no-poo crew. Here are some compelling reasons why you should, too.

Why Switch to the No Shampoo Hair Care

What made you buy the shampoo and/or conditioner taking up space in your shower? Was it the way it lathers up and releases a pretty scent, was it the cool packaging that hooked you, or did someone tell you that you needed to have it?

What if I told you that it lathers because it contains detergents that are not supposed to be on your scalp and scents that are more than likely artificial and irritants? Detergent is an amazing cleaning agent. It is great at stripping away everything on your scalp, but it doesn’t pay any attention to what is being stripped away.

Think of the things you use detergent on. Clothes, cars, floors… Now imagine putting shampoo, which has detergent, on your body or your face. At this point, you might give me an uneasy look.

Hear me out though, you have immediate reasons as to why you would not do this: it would dry your skin out, be too hard, make you break out, etc. Why then do you think it is safe and necessary on your scalp? Is the skin on your scalp really that different from any other skin on your body? The answer is no. However, what makes it different offers more reasons as to why you don’t want detergent touching the scalp.

Your scalp has a protective layer of oil called sebum. Sebum is the body’s defensive layer to protect your scalp. Shampoo (or rather detergent) is such a “great’’ cleanser that it strips this away. This sends signals to your scalp that its defensive layer has been removed and it then goes into overdrive trying to get it back. This can lead to overproduction of oils (oily scalp) and the inability to make up for the loss (dryness). As a result, your hair feels brittle, dry, and rough.

What happens next? Well, the makers of shampoo strategically lean into this because they now have created a need to mask the damage that has been done, and here is where conditioner, masks, and treatments come into play. These products bandage up the damage that has been caused and now you are reliant on a second and possibly third staple product in your routine. If you do not strip the sebum from the scalp and rough up the cuticle, there is no need for conditioners because you are not damaging the hair, to begin with.

Shampoo being bad for your scalp should be enough reason for anyone to seek out other options, but an even stronger argument would be for those individuals who color or highlight their hair. Any shampoo, regardless of being “sulfate-free”, “paraben-free”, “organic”, “natural”, or labeled “color-safe,” will strip your color. If it lathers, it has detergent and detergent will strip color and toner and dull highlights. Those buzz words listed above just mean that your shampoo is a step above cheap drugstore options. Your color is most protected when no detergent is introduced to your haircare routine.

Shampoo Alternatives

When you choose to use no shampoo in your hair, you can take up one of many no-poo method variants that have been developed out of the need for people to cleanse their hair without using detergent. These include using only water, rinsing hair with DIY creations, or using cleansing conditioners and creams. Let’s explore the most popular ones:

DIY Shampoo Substitutes

Another popular route among individuals who embrace essential oils and natural hair remedies is DIY no-poo concoctions. I am all for this! Still, if this appeals to you, I do encourage you to do research on hair types and each oil that Pinterest or your favorite blog may tell you to incorporate. Certain oils such as coconut oil are not good for all hair types (it can cause breakage on color treated and fine hair).
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Many DIY versions use Apple Cider Vinegar, which is great for removing build-up. You can mix a couple tablespoons of ACV with water and apply to the scalp; scrub and rinse. You should follow this with a form of conditioning, as ACV is acidic and can dry the hair out if used alone.

Conditioners

This is the method most people associate with the no-poo method. With this approach you don’t use a shampoo, hence the term “no-poo”, and go straight to a conditioner. Many of these products are marketed towards thicker, coarser, curly textures, and The Curly Girl Method encourages to take up this routine.
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The downside to this method is there is no cleansing component and it will not be suitable for all hair types. If you have tried a traditional no-poo and been unsuccessful, it is probably because you need a specific cleansing component.

Cleansing Creams and Conditioners

My go-to method is using a strategically created cleansing cream. What makes this different from the conditioner-only method is that it has a balance of cleansing and conditioning properties. This makes it a great option for all hair textures and densities.
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The only thing I will use on my clients, husband, kids, and my own hair is New Wash by Hairstory. Cleansing creams can take the guesswork out of figuring out what is needed to effectively wash and cleanse hair. Still, do not rely on the labels and be sure to look into the ingredients when selecting a cleansing cream or conditioner. Silicones and surfactants are components of many products that should be avoided. New Wash, in particular, uses aloe vera and essential oils to gently remove dirt and impurities from hair while not disrupting the scalp’s natural oils or stripping away color.

 ​No-Poo Method Mistakes to Avoid

To make the no shampoo method work, be sure to avoid these common mistakes:

1. Not committing for long enough. Commit to no-poo at least for a month. Your scalp needs time to adjust. Do not use any shampoo during this time – just one of the shampoo alternatives described above.
2. Not targeting the scalp. Make sure you are using enough cleansing product and target the scalp. Try using a scalp massager (scrubber) while washing your hair to stimulate and exfoliate the scalp.
3. Not rinsing thoroughly. If your hair feels oil, dirty or greasy after washing it with a cleansing cream or conditioner, you did not get it all the way to the scalp and/or have left some product behind.
4. Being not consistent. You cannot use a no-poo method one day and shampoo another. It is not a treatment, but a new and better way to wash your scalp and treat your hair.

If you avoid these mistakes and commit to a gentle detergent-free hair care routine, good hair results are sure to follow.

My clients know they have the choice to use whatever they wish to care for their hair; however, if they chose to use shampoo, I cannot guarantee longevity and they will need to see me more frequently for maintenance.
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If you are curious about making the switch, I encourage you to try it out and commit for one month. Whether you have fine hair or coarse hair, virgin or color-treated hair, curly or straight, ditching shampoo and finding the best no-poo hair cleansing method for you will greatly improve the health and appearance of your hair.

Feel free to contact me with any questions about no-poo or discounts for the no-poo products.

Hairstory: New Wash
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This section is for the "Follically Challenged".  There are so many conversations and articles on the topic and I want make sure you are getting good information. 

​This month's article

Add this word to your vocabulary: trichology. It’s the study of scalps and hair, and how they relate to one another. Trichologists specialize in the root cause of hair loss, since, not surprisingly, it all starts right there in the scalp. I always use the metaphor of soil and plants: You need fertile, nourished soil in order for plants to grow strong. (OK, sun usually helps, too, but spare me the finer details.) If the soil is subpar—either there is a dearth of nutrients, or it’s simply an uninhabitable patch of land—then the plants will die, if they even grew in the first place. It’s important to think of your hair growth the same way. Just as any number of issues could cause the soil to go south, the same can happen with scalp health.

I’ll be the first to admit that, when I talk about my own hair loss experience with readers and friends, I'm quick to suggest medical remedies as a way to thwart hormonal assault on your follicles, and to boost nutrient delivery. Yes, these and other hair loss prevention methods work, but it can frequently be mitigated by any number of tactics, says trichologist Bridgette Hill. She’s the founder of Root Cause Scalp Analysis, a scalp therapy platform that helps clients fully understand their own unique variables affecting hair loss.

“A lot of men simplify [to finasteride and minoxidil], but there are so many lifestyle changes, as well as holistic and plant-based solutions out there that can help you,” Hill says. “Many men want to think it’s genetic hair loss, but it could be an overbuilding of proteins from their workout regimens. Sometimes it’s inflammation from over-shampooing. A lot of times, you can end up doing more damage when you treat androgenic hair loss with [prescriptions], when you could just treat it holistically.”
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Read on for a little more insight into how trichology might help you understand the correlation between your own scalp and hair health, plus a few other ways brands are getting into scalp care.

What does a trichologist do?
“Trichologists are the bridge between cosmetology and dermatology,” says Hill. Again, no two hair loss experiences are the same, and that’s because you have to factor in things like geographic location, gender, medical history, ethnicity, age, lifestyle and habits, nutrient deficiencies, stress and anxiety, grooming products, and (believe it or not), much more. A cosmetologist might look at the surface, or only focus on the hair, while a dermatologist might jump right to the medical and anatomical stuff, oftentimes relying only on prescriptions.

“Trichologists ask a series of strategic questions that help us respond to [hair loss] triggers,” Hill says. “Doctors might take a biopsy and define it in general terms, like ‘this is dermatitis or folliculitis’ and leave it at that. But hair loss is very personal. It’s one thing to blame, let’s say, diabetes, for hair loss, but what medication are you taking? Your medications might be creating inefficiencies in your minerals and vitamins that would otherwise help [the hair follicles and scalp].”

So, consider adding this to your roster of routine health screenings: a visit to the trichologist (many, like Hill, have transitioned to digital consultations this past year). Even if everything seems balanced and healthy, a trichologist can help build a plan that will get ahead of future hair loss problems.

How can I care for my scalp regularly?

Here are four ways you can prioritize scalp health on your own—even if hair loss isn’t a primary concern.
 
1. Get the right nutrients, but not an overdose: More brands are making scalp- and follicle-fortifying supplements that take a natural, plant-based approach. In the case of Prose, the aim is to cut back the reliance on medicines, and provide consumers with exactly the amount of nutrients needed. You can also prioritize a balanced diet centered on Vitamins A, B, C, and E (leafy greens, sweet potatoes, berries, nuts), fatty acids (nuts, avocadoes, fish), proteins (eggs, nuts, beans), among other natural, whole foods.

2. Scrub a dub dub: Scalp exfoliation might seem counterproductive: Wait, so you scrub the scalp over and over in order to promote hair retention? Sure, you might lose a few hairs in the process (ones that were bound to fall later that day, before restarting their growth cycles), but doing this scrub also stimulates nutrient delivery to your scalp and hair follicles. It even clears the scalp of dead skin cells, excess dirt and grime, as well as product accumulation. This allows follicles to grow stronger and uninhibited, while also mitigating fungal breakouts and flaking. And if you prefer a topical scrub (versus a physical brush), the product might even contain scalp-balancing ingredients like tea tree oil. But it’s important to note that you should only scrub 1-2 time weekly, max.

3. Do a weekly scalp treatment: At-home scalp therapies can range from leave-on masks to rinse-away treatments, but they all have a similar aim: To neutralize bacterial and fungal buildup, and deliver a high concentration of nourishment to the scalp and hair follicles, often while promoting circulation. Some might prioritize dry-scalp revival, while others may mitigate excessive oil production.

4. Blow dry less often, and at cooler settings: The heat from a blow dryer is not just damaging to your hair; it can also wilt the follicles themselves. There’s no recovering from that kind of frying, so keep the dryer on cool, if you must, and pick up an ionic dryer, which causes less damage to hairs. (Oh, and take milder showers, while you’re at it.)

Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid for Hair

To be clear, hyaluronic acid is not a moisturizer (it's a humectant), but it helps by pulling moisture in from the environment. Here's how this works to benefit the hair and scalp.

• Hydrates the hair: The humectant-binding properties of hyaluronic acid perform similarly on hair fibers as it does on the skin, allowing the hair fibers to retain and seal moisture from products, according to Hill.
• Reduces frizziness: Hill adds that hyaluronic acid also helps to seal the cuticle, which prevents unwanted moisture from entering it, leading to frizzy hair and shrinkage in highly curly and coil-y hair textures.
• Plumps the hair: Farhang says that although more studies are needed, theoretically hyaluronic acid could help plump up dry, damaged hair. This plumping effect could be used for added volume at the roots, but additional ingredients would be needed to actually repair the damage, according to Farhang.
• Hydrates the scalp: Not only does hyaluronic acid benefit the hair strands, but both Hill and King highlight its benefits for the scalp as well. "Humectant molecules attract and bind moisture to the skin, allowing collagen to thrive in the skin and scalp," Hill explains. King adds that it can keep the scalp hydrated to avoid the issue of dry scalp.

Hair Type Considerations

According to Hill, all hair types and textures could benefit from using any hyaluronic acid–based products on their hair fibers. Hill explains that the ingredient's ability to bind to moisture helps all hair types and textures retain the proper balance of lipids, humectants, and proteins required for hair strength and elasticity.

More specifically, Farhang says hyaluronic acid would most benefit those with dry, brittle, and perhaps damaged hair as well as frizzy hair. King adds that even color-treated and chemically processed strands can benefit from hyaluronic acid and stresses that the more damaged the hair, the better. King explains that the hair shaft tends to be porous and hyaluronic acid can help to fill the cracks and moisturize. Farhang adds that the ingredient is particularly great for not weighing down curls and not leaving a greasy feel on the hair.

How to Use Hyaluronic Acid for Hair

• Apply it to your scalp as a pre-shampoo treatment: Before shampooing, Hill suggests applying hyaluronic acid liberally all over your scalp and massaging it in with your fingers in circular motions, focusing on areas that are more problematic than others.
• Use it on wet or damp hair: Farhang recommends applying hyaluronic acid post-shower while your strands are still wet. Not only is this when the hair is most receptive to products, but water is also key when using hyaluronic acid. Because hyaluronic acid absorbs water, King says using the ingredient on damp hair can accelerate the effect. "Hyaluronic acid thrives when there is moisture, so make sure whenever you use hyaluronic acid, you mist plenty of water or tonic so hyaluronic acid can bind it and form a coating to keep the moisture in for maximum effect," King explains.
• Choose products formulated with hyaluronic acid: Instead of experimenting with your own hair concoction made with your hyaluronic acid skincare products, Hill suggests using a formula specifically designed for the hair. "I advise only using skin-based hyaluronic acid products to the scalp under the supervision of a certified trichologist, hair replacement practitioner, or medical professional," Hill says. "Before applying product to the scalp, it is imperative to have a keen understanding of the root causes leading you to use hyaluronic acid to treat conditions." Not only that, but King points out that hyaluronic acid skincare products can be costly, and you wouldn't necessarily want to waste it on your hair, which is technically dead.
• Use it as a leave-in conditioner: Farhang adds that hyaluronic acid hair serums could be helpful as styling treatments on damp hair or as a part of a hair mask. Hill recommends applying the hyaluronic acid to damp hair as the first layer to your styling product. Apply it from root to ends, comb through for even distribution, then layer your preferred styling product on top.
• Combine it with oils: Although hyaluronic acid could be beneficial in plumping the hair, Farhang suggests using the ingredient in conjunction with other ingredients to actually help repair the damaged hair. Farhang's top picks: jojoba and argan oils for dry hair and collagen and proteins, like keratin, for strengthening the hair.

Here are a couple more articles for you to check out:

• Everything You've Ever Wanted to Know About Sodium Hyaluronate
• 5 Reasons You Should Be Using Hyaluronic Acid