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In 2023, people are embracing their personal style and expressing fearlessness. Here's how to do it.  It’s never too late to have a truly fabulous haircut. Yes, hair changes as we age, and you may not have the same thick and healthy tresses you sported when you were 18. But that’s no reason to resort to what some stylists call a “granny haircut.” In the old days, it meant a tight perm and a blue rinse. Now, it refers to any wash-and-wear, low-maintenance cut. But there are endless options to keep things fresh and lively, so there’s no need to resort to a full-on granny style (unless you absolutely want to). Hairstylists point to older style icons as inspiration. “I always think of the women of Advanced Style on Instagram and how cool their hair always looks with their outfits,” said hair designer Luisa Popović. (If you haven’t followed it yet, it’s a project of photographer Ari Seth Cohen that’s dedicated “to capturing the sartorial savvy of the senior set.”) Other stellar examples, she said, include Vivenne Westwood, who died in 2022, and who was famed for her signature bright orange hair. She also cited the “powerful looks” of Michèle Lamy, the raven-haired 79-year-old French fashion designer. “It all just emanates fearlessness,” Popović said.  Tempted? Talk to a stylist. If you’re ready for a refresh, redo or bold new direction, stylists have lots of fresh ideas that can make you feel at the top of your style game, no concessions to age required. “A big haircut can really change up the energy in your life,” said stylist Nikki Providence. “If things feel stagnant, sometimes a haircut can shake everything loose.” “When we’re changing our hairstyle, our age doesn’t have to decide whether we go for long or short hair,” said stylist Mahogany Grace. “The health of hair matters a lot in choosing a new style. Try chatting with a couple of professionals to get ideas on how to style it based on its current condition.” “I think personal preference should guide a client’s choices,” she said. “If a client is 20 or 80 and they love a bob, long hair or a pixie, they should wear one. As a stylist, my job is to make each cut unique by bringing a client’s individual features and beauty.’ How to choose the cut you want How to decide which cut to choose? “There’s such a wide range of styles, cuts, colors available, now more than ever,” Popović said. “Spend some time looking online, or at magazines and books, to get inspired, and experiment in baby steps if you’re a little nervous to branch out from your usual.” In terms of those “baby steps,” Grace suggested that it might be a good idea to “reshape your current cut, maybe by adding softer layers around the face” as a good beginning. Stylist Sonna Brado said, “One of the main questions I get from consumers on my Instagram feed is, ‘How do I find someone to look at my face shape and design something for me? I’m 50-something and feeling frumpy.’ Her advice for clients is to follow their own gut feelings, and to find a stylist who can interpret those feelings into a terrific haircut. Stylist Akihisa Yamaguchi believes there’s a great cut out there, just waiting for you. “I definitely think that it’s possible to get your desired volume, texture and have fuller looks, while avoiding something that feels like an ‘old lady style,’‘’ she said. “I love medium-length bobs that instantly give you full volume hair and a nice saddle face frame layer that works nicely for the face.”  If you want to cut things short, there are smart ways to go about it, the stylists said. “If your hair has lost ‘presence,’ meaning it’s thin or wispy, a shorter or blunter cut will likely help it to look stronger and more solid,” Providence advised. “A bob can be sleek or soft, but the idea is for it to look intentional.” Popović agreed, and suggested that pleasing yourself is most important: “The bob seems to be getting a lot of slack these days, but I’ll always love a good, sharp bob. It can be so chic. I ultimately think clients should go with styles that make them feel good, makes their hair look as healthy as possible and are maintainable with their daily routines. There’s no cookie-cutter style that works across the board for older clients.” Consider adding some volume with hairpieces. If your hair has been thinning, you might want to boost the volume of your existing cut with some artificial options. “I’m a huge user of hair extensions and hairpieces,” said stylist and creative director Paul Labrecque, who noted that Halo Couture is a favorite brand. Ditto from Popović: “I absolutely love wigs for switching up a look and having tons of versatility without a big commitment,” she said. Labrecque uses tape-ins to fill in where hair has thinned. “It’s great for an A-line bob, to get that sharp point in the front,” he said. “If a woman has crown thinning, I use top pieces, which can be very small and made custom to cover crown splits and recessions.” There are some things to watch out for with extensions, however. “I shy away from poor-quality hair, or hair that’s overly short or long. The most flattering styles to me on older, duller hair sit under the chin and extend no longer than two inches from the collarbone.” While thinning can be a problem for everyone, those who rely on relaxers may experience it more. “If you’ve relaxed your hair for a lifetime, you’re much more prone to hair recession,” Labrecque said. “Plus, weaves and extensions, over time, can hinder hair thickness.” He suggested “a fall, like Halo’s Hybrid Fall, can help. Halo’s version is attached with a thin fishing string, and it can reduce hair stress.” Your styling routine needs an update, too. How you take care of your hair after that great cut can also be secretly aging you. “When it’s overstyled, especially with too much hair spray or teased hair, that can be very ‘old lady’ style,” Yamaguchi said. Providence agreed, saying that it’s OK to be a little low-key: “Let go of high-maintenance styles, and feel free to cut it short or pull it back. Pixie cuts were so cool in the ’90s, work on almost any texture, and can be fun and youthful all over again. I like when there’s a little softness to the edges. Let go of perfectionism, because it’s just holding you back.” And whatever you do, remember that you’re allowed to have fun. “In this time, in this culture, it can be scary to age publicly, or even to evolve,” Providence said. “But I see openly aging as the ultimate show of confidence and independence. The world is more open than ever to all textures and types of hair. It’s a golden age for individualism, if you can see through the standard bland, ultra-polished styles on Instagram. Out there in real life, people are embracing wigs, creative color, locs, braids, twists and natural textures, opening the door to looking however they want.” from HuffPost
10/4/2023 A Guide to Hair Salon Etiquette A neat haircut has the power to transform the way you look! As a woman who has to visit the beauty salon every 8 to 10 weeks because her layers grow faster than she wants, there are a few things that I have learned and taught myself over time about salon etiquette. They have always saved me from the agony of leaving a salon with a sad face and a bad haircut. Be specific Decide before going to the beauty salon what you want. I have learnt from my personal experience that hairdressers want you to be as specific as you can about your needs and wants, be it a cut or colour. "I don't want my hair to be too short" is too vague for anyone, including hairdressers. Your definition of 'too short' may be different from your hairstylist's definition of 'too short.' Therefore, be specific. Consider saying something like "Take an inch off the length." A bad haircut can jeopardise your mental peace. Therefore, it is very important to give specific instructions to your hairdresser. No hairstylist wants to watch a client leave the salon with an unhappy face. When you are unsure Not everyone knows what haircut we want or will look good on us. If you are one of them, save pictures of some haircuts that you like and show them to your hairdresser. Chelsea Federer, a hair and colour specialist at Fabrizio Salon & Urban Retreat Spa, an upscale beauty establishment located in Wilmington, Delaware, said, "Visual references always help, especially when clients cannot be specific about the kind of cut and colour they want."  "Pictures or even parts and pieces of pictures can help your hairdresser understand what kind of look you are trying to achieve and whether it is possible to achieve that look in one visit," she added. Everyone's hair is different, however. Not all cuts and colours you like on Instagram may be suitable for your hair. Save photos for your hairdresser nevertheless, because 'a picture is worth a thousand words!' Go to the same hairdresser Once you have liked a hairdresser's work, go to him/her all the time. People, who are particular about their haircuts, always do this. Going to the same person every time means that you need to give fewer instructions; your hairdresser already knows what you want. Make an appointment, though. Do not just walk into the beauty salon hoping to find your favourite hairdresser sitting idle! Have plenty of patience A particular cut and/or colour may not always be achieved in one visit. Therefore, do not show impatience as stylists work on your hair; you could be stressing them out. Also, visit a beauty salon with plenty of time on your hands. A client-in-a-hurry is a stressor for stylists and colourists.  Even after holding patience, you may not always see the look you desired for, especially hair colour. Why?
"There are times when a client's colour and hair treatment history, diet, and medications affect her hair's receptivity to colour, making it difficult or unfeasible to achieve the desired outcome," Chelsea Federer said. "In complex cases, additional treatments and multiple visits are needed," she added. To achieve your desired cut and colour combo, you may even need to wait weeks. However, the wait is absolutely worth it because, in the end, a good haircut and colour will dramatically improve your appearance. Therefore, do not get angry or grow impatient, if you do not see the look you wished for in one salon visit. Tip your hairdresser I have always tipped my hairdressers, be it in Dhaka or Delaware. Tipping is a kind gesture that is always appreciated. Here in the US, the standard percentage of tipping a hairdresser is 15 to 20 per cent of the final bill. Our hair is the only crown we wear every day. To ensure that the crown fits us right, going to a hair salon is a must. However, as a client, just going to a hair salon is not enough, practicing good etiquette and having realistic expectations are also necessary for an overall good cut and/or colour experience.  It’s official: Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is no longer a quaint ‘old wives remedy’ — It has surged in popularity, with the hashtag #applecidervinegar pulling in 210M views on TikTok in the past 2 months and 988M views overall. Many videos show users experimenting with using apple cider vinegar in their beauty routines, particularly focusing on how it can help to promote healthy hair. Experts at All Things Hair turned to Google data to find out the biggest hair concerns people are seeking to treat with apple cider vinegar and whether or not it does actually help to resolve them. Dandruff: 35,640 Google searches The greatest number of searches by far were asking if apple cider vinegar can help with dandruff. Milena Prinzi, hair expert at All Things Hair, sheds light on exactly how this fermented apple juice combats dandruff and answers Google users' questions: What causes dandruff and why is ACV a good treatment? "Dandruff happens when a yeast-like fungus called Malassezia gets out of control by feeding on oils on the scalp," Prinzi explains. "The excess of fungus unbalances the normal pH levels on the scalp and disrupts the cell regeneration process. As a result, white flakes, odor and itchiness appear on the scalp. Apple cider vinegar has natural antimicrobial and antioxidant properties and acetic acid, which helps regulate the scalp's pH levels and target dandruff." Which ACV is best for dandruff? "Many versions of ACV vinegar are available, but to tackle dandruff, you want to choose one with the highest concentration possible of acetic acid. Why? This acid will target the unprecedented production of Malassezia, the yeast-like fungus responsible for dandruff," Pinzi shares. "Furthermore, acetic acid will keep the scalp's pH levels in check to eliminate flakiness and itchiness. You also want to choose a version of the vinegar that is raw, unfiltered and unpasteurized, and if you can see the good bacteria floating on the bottom of the bottle, even better." How do you treat dandruff with ACV? "I'm a big fan of ACV as a scalp treatment and have used it for years. If your scalp can handle it straight up to target problematic areas, go for it. I usually dip a cotton ball and gently rub it on the scalp. However, this vinegar has a strong scent, so you should only apply it before washing your hair; 30 minutes to an hour before hitting the shower," Pinzi adds. "For my rinse, I purchase a spray bottle and mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of the vinegar in 8 to 10 ounces of water. Of course, you can adjust these measurements as you see fit and as your scalp's tolerance for the vinegar increases." Hair Growth: 16,920 searches Prinzi is not so convinced on the efficacy of ACV for this condition, saying: "This might be an unpopular opinion, but as far as I know, apple cider vinegar does not help with hair growth. However, apple cider vinegar is one of nature's greatest alkaline and aids the body to balance our pH levels, which means it helps eliminate free radicals in the organism." Prinzi continues adding, "Due to these redeeming qualities, apple cider vinegar is a fantastic scalp cleanser. People have used apple cider rinse to soothe scalp itchiness, remove product buildup, control the overproduction of Malassezia, the fungus responsible for dandruff, and eliminate scalp odor produced by bacteria developed by scalp dermatitis. A healthy scalp is necessary for hair growth, but the regular use of apple cider vinegar doesn't necessarily mean you'll grow long strands. Since hair is mostly protein, eating a high-protein diet might aid hair growth." Hair Loss: 4,800 searches Prinzi does not think ACV would make much difference: "As far as I know, there's no scientific proof that apple cider vinegar prevents hair loss or stimulates hair growth. Apple cider vinegar is best known for its antibacterial properties, which can be applied to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff and dermatitis." Greasy/Oily Hair: 4,320 searches Prinzi confirms that ACV could help with this condition: "There might be a precedent to support this claim due to apple cider vinegar’s natural cleansing properties. If used as a rinse or wash, ACV removes product buildup on the scalp. Since this vinegar is rich in antioxidants and balances the pH, it might control the overproduction of oil on the scalp and, therefore, less oily hair." Dry Hair: 960 searches Prinzi does not think ACV is the right treatment for dryness: "I don’t see how apple cider vinegar can hydrate dry hair because this vinegar has no moisturizing ingredients. Dry hair often needs the help of oils and vitamins to smooth its coarse texture and bring out the shine. If anything, I think apple cider vinegar will make dry hair drier." For more hair advice visit: https://www.allthingshair.com/en-us/ from BeautyLaunchPad
I've been sharing about the benefits of silk pillowcases for almost a decade now. The benefits are not just for you curlies. Check out this article for some favorite choices. My Favorite Hair Care Tool Is a Silk Pillowcase  * includes paid product placements, endorsements, or sponsorships My hair didn’t know peace until my partner bought me a set of LilySilk pillowcases for Christmas a few years back. Before receiving this thoughtful gift, I slept exclusively on cotton pillowcases, not knowing that smooth-seeming cotton fabric was, at a microscopic level, the equivalent of sandpaper rubbing against my curls and coils all night (or nap) long. I’d always wake up to frizzy hair, with long tendrils sticking up and out. Somehow I’d missed the lesson other young Black girls received on wrapping our hair at night in silk scarves or bonnets to protect our ends from rubbing against the sheets and breaking off. But when the silk pillowcases slipped into my life, my hair problems were solved. I’d wake up with noticeably less frizz, fewer tangles, and drastically reduced bed head. No more bad hair days, which meant notably better days overall. Although I loved the pillowcases my partner gave me, I wondered how they stacked up to the mountain of other silk cases sold everywhere from Amazon to boutique retailers. In true Wirecutter fashion, I dug in to find out what makes a great silk pillowcase—and whether there’s really a difference between a $90 case and one that costs a fraction of that. Though the origins of silk production are not entirely clear, Chinese legends have it that 5,000 years ago an empress named Si-ling-chi learned how to raise silkworms, reel their silk, and spin it into cloth for garments. Since then, the shimmering gossamer has been used in everything from clothing to furniture to linens, including the soft fabric that Black women have a very, very long history of using to protect our hair. Wearing caps or bonnets at night has been a cultural tradition for at least several decades. Like most Black history, this tradition isn’t well documented, yet it’s a ubiquitous part of our past and present. Even for someone like me, who wasn’t taught to wrap my hair at night, it became increasingly obvious that my curls—which tended to be dry and split by morning—were suffering for it. This happens because certain types of hair—especially any kind of textured hair, including coily, kinky, curly, or wavy hair—have a harder time retaining moisture. Everyone’s scalp produces a natural, waxy oil called sebum, but for people with textured or even long hair, sebum has a harder time coating the hair shaft from root to tip, resulting in dryness or split ends. Silk’s smooth structure absorbs less moisture from the skin and hair, which is why silk pillowcases have more recently been embraced as part of many peoples’ skin-care regimens (something we’ve previously written about). If you’ve shopped for silk pillowcases, you know the prices are all over the map—some are relatively cheap, while others cost upwards of $100. I wanted to find out what you get when you pay more and less. I narrowed my search to cases with three qualities:
With that in mind, I tested seven pillowcases: the Fishers Finery, J Jimoo, LilySilk, MYK Silk, Ravmix, Olesilk, and Slip.  LilySilk ($69 at the time of publication) After I slept on seven different pillowcases over the course of a week, my partner was happy to know that the one I found myself continually gravitating toward was the LilySilk 25mm 6A pillowcase he originally gave me. This pillowcase is lustrous and weighty right out of the box. Maybe I liked it so much because I was already accustomed to using it. But what really sealed the deal for me was its condition after the first wash: It assumed an almost matte finish that made it less slippery and more comfortable to sleep on. Most importantly, I wake up each morning with corkscrew curls that feel healthier, more hydrated, and unburdened by frizz. (Though I’ve made multiple orders and have not experienced any problems, some people have been disappointed by LilySilk’s customer service.)  Slip ($89 at the time of publication) Even though it has a lower momme count, the 22mm Slip pillowcase is just as thick as the LilySilk. Also made with 6A Mulberry silk, this pillowcase has a satin sheen that didn’t budge, even after its first time being hand-washed. But the pillowcase had a slippery quality that made my head slide off to the side, which meant I had to constantly readjust in the middle of the night. The Slip was also prone to sliding around on the bed, and after a few weeks of use, it looked more wrinkled than the LilySilk. Some may prefer this pillowcase to the LilySilk because of its super-silky features, but personally I didn’t like waking up with my head on the cotton sheets—and neither did my curls.  Fishers Finery ($51 at the time of publication) The Fishers Finery pillowcase, also 25mm 6A Mulberry silk, strikes a good balance between price and quality. Though it’s not as soft as the Slip or the LilySilk, this pillowcase still feels luxurious. It’s heavy and not too slick (it’s not as slippery as the Slip), and it kept my hair smooth and frizz-less by the morning. It’s still pricey by cotton-pillowcase standards, but this one is the best I found for around $50 (and it’s leagues ahead of cheaper cases). Despite ranging from 19mm to 22mm, the other pillowcases we tried—the J Jimoo, Olesilk, MYK Silk, and Ravmix—were all nearly identical to the touch. These pillowcases, which range between $21 and $30, were soft, but they lacked the weighty quality of their more-expensive counterparts. And they felt more like a raw, unfinished silk than smooth and satiny. The thin material of these pillowcases speaks loudly to the difference in quality. However, if you’re on a budget and simply looking for something soft enough to reduce friction for your hair, any of these options would be an upgrade from a traditional cotton pillowcase. A frustrating reality of silk pillowcases in particular is that most of them are sold individually, not in sets of two. Because this is such a high upfront expense, maintaining your pillowcases will become just as important as choosing the right ones for you. Silk was initially intended for royalty, and in modern times, it still costs more to fully enjoy its luxury. So far, the benefits outweigh the cost for me, and I think my hair, with its healthy sheen, would agree. from NYT Wirecutter
 Only natural ingredients ensure healthy and beautiful hair? Hairdresser and chemist Michael Ahlmeyer investigates the statement. In this day and age, more and more people are looking for natural alternatives in all areas of their lives - including hair care. But while some claim that natural ingredients are the best choice for healthy and beautiful hair, others remain skeptical and regard this as a mere myth. In this article, we're going to take a closer look at natural ingredients in hair care and whether they're really as effective as they say they are. What does science say? Natural ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, plant extracts or jojoba oil have a firm place in numerous hair care products. Proponents of these ingredients say they can moisturize hair, strengthen it, add shine, and even promote hair growth. But what do the scientific facts say about this? It is important to note that not all natural ingredients are created equal. Some studies have shown that certain natural ingredients may actually have beneficial properties for hair. Aloe vera, for example, has moisturizing properties and can help reduce dryness and flaking.Jojoba oil helps regulate sebum production and keep the scalp healthy. The situation is different with plant extracts . In most cases, these serve more to provide a suitable story for product marketing. Often these extracts are only available in homeopathic dosescontained in the product and their actual effect may be questionable. A critical examination of studies on the subject of ingredients in hair cosmetics is of great importance. It is important to review the methodology and validity of the studies, note the independence of the studies, and consider the sample size and reproducibility of the results. The context and applicability of the study results should also be considered. Be critical Another critical consideration concerns the use of essential oils in hair care. Natural rose oil, for example, contains over 500 different ingredients , many of which are potentially allergenic . With synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, there is the possibility of deliberately omitting many of these potential allergens and thus producing a more compatible product. It is important that hairdressers and consumers understand the criticisms and limitations of natural ingredients in hair care. Natural cosmetics can be a good complement, but should not be seen as the sole solution. And be careful: The terms 'Clean Beauty' and 'Green Chemistry' are not proprietary and may lead to misleading marketing claims. Claims such as "Sulfate-free, Paraben-free, Silicone-free" are widespread, although in many cases they are unfair and not allowed: The Claims Regulation clarifies that ingredients that are considered safe, such as parabens, silicones and sulfates, must not be discounted. The focus is on the well-being of the customers As hairdressers, we regularly subject our customers' hair to a variety of chemical and thermal treatments, such as colouring, bleaching, straightening and perming. In this context, it is important to understand that the solution to hair care challenges cannot be found exclusively in natural cosmetics. However, natural cosmetics can be a useful addition for guests in the salon who want to avoid chemical treatments or who are sensitive to certain ingredients. It is crucial that consumers remain critical and do not rely solely on advertising claims. Making an informed decision about hair care products requires looking at different sources and information. Studies are an important aspect, however, one should not only trust individual studies, but also consider other factors such as scientific knowledge, clinical studies and consumer experiences. As hairdressers, we can help our clients choose the right products and treatments according to their individual hair needs. A balanced and differentiated consideration of natural ingredients as well as a critical attitude towards marketing statements are essential. Ultimately, the focus should be on the health and well-being of the customer, and hair care product selection should be based on sound information and individual preferences. from TopHair.de (you may need to translate this site)  Michael Ahlmeyer is a master hairdresser with two salons in Cologne. He develops high-quality hair cosmetics under the brand name "Michael Ahlmeyer" after using the corona pandemic for a correspondence course in chemistry in product development.
More information about the products and contact at:michaelahlmeyerpro.com |
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