2/27/2023 What's that on your head...How Wigs are MadeThere are lots of reasons people wear wigs. Some wear wigs due to illness, baldness or as part of their religion. Some like to experiment with new styles or colours. Some wear wigs as part of their job - like actors, judges or even clowns. We know why wigs are worn, but few know how they’re manufactured. Read on to find out how wigs are made. A wig – short for periwig – an old English word for the long, often curly, flowing headpieces worn mainly by men in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries – is a head covering made of real or artificial hair. They have been worn in one form or another for thousands of years. How wigs are made today differs unrecognisably from wigs made at the dawn of recorded history. Here, you’ll find the answer to the question: how are wigs made? A Short History of Wigs Wigs have been worn since times of antiquity, starting perhaps with the Ancient Egyptians who shaved their heads but didn’t want sunburn. The ancient Assyrians, Greeks and Romans also wore wigs, and the quality of one’s wig was a symbol of wealth and status, hence the modern-day term ‘bigwig’. The richest in ancient Egypt even had wigs made from finely-spun silver! It was reported that Julius Caesar wore a wig to hide his baldness and the use of wigs in Ancient Rome was relatively common. With the fall of the Western Roman Empire around 500 AD, the use of wigs declined and they weren’t widely reported again for another thousand years. Come the sixteenth century and the popularity of wigs returned, thanks largely to royalty. Elizabeth I wore a wig, and the wigs of the French and English kings and nobility were extraordinarily ornate, not to mention very heavy. When considering how wigs were manufactured in the nineteenth century, they required an incredibly complex process of manufacture, meaning they remained available only to the wealthiest in society. Indeed, it wasn’t until the 20th century, in the 1960s, when synthetic wigs became available that they were worn more widely as general fashion items. Today, wig making is a multi-billion pound global industry and here, we’ll answer the question ‘how are wigs made?’ Types of Wigs There are lots of different types of wigs and they can broadly be broken down into four main categories. Monofilament – these wigs are light and durable and they replicate the natural way the hair moves from the scalp. Lace-Front – lace-front wigs are incredibly natural looking and create the illusion of a perfectly natural, albeit hand-constructed, hairline. Hand-Tied – hand-tied wigs can either be synthetic wigs or custom human hair wigs and each hair is sewn to the mesh by hand. They are versatile and very light. Wefted or Open-Cap – This type of wig is usually synthetic and the most affordable. They are perfectly suited to the occasional wearer but aren’t very versatile. Synthetic Synthetic wigs are constructed from man-made fibres such as polyester, nylon or acrylic and they are treated through a number of complex chemical processes to ensure they have the look and feel of natural human hair. The benefits of synthetic wigs is that they come in virtually any colour shade, they retain their style easily and are bought off-the-shelf so they are cheaper than custom human hair wigs. The downsides are that there is little versatility, i.e. you can’t go from straight to curly using the same wig and often can’t be heat-treated. Custom Human Hair Wigs These wigs use human hair with an invisible hairline so they are as realistic-looking as natural hair. They are much easier to customise than a synthetic wig and can withstand treatments from blow dryers, straighteners or curling tongs. They also last much longer than synthetic wigs but are invariably more expensive. How Wigs are Manufactured The process of how custom wigs are made and how synthetic wigs are manufactured is virtually identical and both methods are specialised and complex. First, a master wig maker will measure the client’s head. Then, using a simple method of cellophane and masking tape, they will make a cast of the head that sits on a head-shaped block of wood or canvas. The outline of the cast is drawn onto the block, which is then covered with a fine silk mesh held on with pins. This preparation ensures the final product (which can cost many thousands of pounds for the best quality wigs) is a perfect fit. Preparing the Hair This is the most important aspect in the process of how wigs are made. In consultation with the client, the wig maker will choose the hair to be used and ensure it is all facing in the same direction from the root to the tip, ensuring the cuticles are all intact. Once the wig maker has the hair they need, it’s bound together in bundles and run through a hackle – a kind of upturned comb with very long, pointed needles – to remove short hairs. It’s at this point that the hair is closely inspected for nits. If any are found, the hair is boiled in a solution of acetic acid and combed through with a nit comb, the same way your parents did when there was a nit outbreak at school. The answer to the question ‘how do they make wigs’ is now starting to come together. For synthetic hair wigs, the length of hair is chosen by the client and it goes through the same binding and hackling process as natural hair. Sorting the Style After the hackling, the hair is washed and disinfected and then rinsed through a number of times to remove all shampoo and disinfectant residue. It is then either left to dry naturally or in an oven at around 80°C – 100°C. Some wig makers will hackle the hair again at this point and it’s now that the hair is curled, waved, coloured or styled to the client’s wish. The Knotting How are wigs manufactured? This is now the most important and time consuming element of the whole process. It’s called knotting. The wig maker uses a needle to attach the hair to the base and a professionally-made, full wig from an expert requires up to 40,000 individual knots, all done meticulously by hand. When the wig is complete, a last row of knotting is done to finish the edges and the inside of the wig is treated with a hot iron press to secure each knot in place to prevent any from falling out. Now you know how wigs are made but a more important question for the client is how long does it take to make a wig? Wigs at the affordable end of the scale can take as little as a month, but for the finest quality wigs from the best wig makers in the world, a wait of six months to a year is not unheard of. from Discovery UK More than two dozen Olaplex users have sued the company over allegations that its luxury haircare products are falsely advertised as safe for those with dry and/or damaged hair. The 61-page lawsuit says that although Olaplex touts the products “over and over” in advertisements as “scientifically proven,” free from harsh chemicals and “safe for all hair,” the items are, in fact, “none of these things.” As the suit tells it, Los Angeles-based Olaplex and co-defendant Cosway Co.’s “unreasonably dangerous” products fail to meet even the minimum cosmetic industry standards, as evidenced by the fact that, for instance, the Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector once contained lilial, a known sensitizer and allergen linked to infertility. According to the lawsuit, many other purportedly safe Olaplex products contain panthenol and other ingredients well known in the beauty industry to be allergens and irritants that can cause allergic contact dermatitis, hair loss and scalp injuries. The case, which was not filed as a class action (more on this below), accuses Olaplex and Cosway of attempting to conceal the dangers of their products, leading many users to believe that their hair loss and scalp issues “could be symptoms of a dire health condition.” Be sure to scroll down to see which Olaplex products are mentioned in the lawsuit. In addition, Olaplex’s marketing – which includes the use of celebrity photos – is misleading given that “many of these celebrities do not regularly use the Products,” much less sponsor or endorse them in any way, the filing claims. Further, much of the defendants’ press coverage amounts to “no more than a purchased ad” or paid mentions in blogs and by influencers on social media, the suit, filed on February 9 in California, relays. Further still, many of the before-and-after photos on Olaplex’s website that show how “the average person can attain celebrity hair” feature paid models who “do not regularly use the Products” as recommended by the defendants and whose hair, unbeknownst to consumers, has been styled by professionals, the case claims. Despite “thousands” of complaints, Olaplex conceals dangers of haircare products, suit claims According to the case, Olaplex has affirmatively tried to hide the dangers of the products from the public, prohibiting many users from discovering that their injuries were caused by the company’s “wrongful conduct.” “It never occurred to Plaintiffs and other users that the Products—touted by Defendants as safe for all hair, free of a laundry list of harsh chemicals and are [sic] scientifically formulated and proven to repair dry and damaged hair—could actually be hurting their hair and scalp, not helping,” the lawsuit summarizes. “To the contrary, many believed their situation would have been worse but for the Products.” The case claims Olaplex has made matters worse by failing to disclose and, in fact, actively concealing the sheer number of complaints it has received of hair loss, scalp issues and other injuries from customers and the FDA. Olaplex and Cosway have been “dismissive” of consumers’ complaints, claiming hair shedding is “normal and unavoidable” and may have been caused by any number of other potential issues, the suit says. Had the companies been transparent as far as the volume of complaints they received, consumers could have identified the source of their hair loss and scalp issues much sooner – and some could have avoided injury altogether, the lawsuit contends. Despite the foregoing, Olaplex products remain on store shelves, the complaint shares. Olaplex and Cosway have instead implemented “what is essentially a voluntary and entirely self-serving partial recall,” merely allowing customers to return Olaplex products with “no questions asked” for a full refund, regardless of the date of original purchase or amount of product left in the bottle, the case relays. “Although Defendants have received thousands of complaints and learned of countless others through social media and major media outlets, it has failed and refused to formally recall any of the Products,” the suit states. “Nor have Defendants issued any new warnings or otherwise disclosed the defects and dangers associated with the Products.” As the case tells it, the defendants’ seemingly half-hearted recall amounts to an attempt to “appease injured consumers and sweep under the rug the dangers presented by the Products.” Olaplex ingredients include allergens, could allow for benzene exposure Per the case, many of the Olaplex products at issue contain sodium benzoate and ascorbic and/or citric acid – chemicals that, when combined, create the known carcinogen benzene. The filing stresses that benzene is “so dangerous that the beauty industry has stopped using the ingredient” and voluntarily pulled hair care products containing the substance from stores. The suit adds that the Olaplex products also contain non-water-soluble substances that can cause users to develop “clogged, inflamed, impacted and infected hair follicles.” This condition, known as seborrheic dermatitis, is characterized by “red, itchy, inflamed, blistered, flaking or scaling skin” and hair loss, the suit says. According to the lawsuit, each variety of Olaplex products contains “known skin irritants and sensitizers,” which can cause allergic contact dermatitis and, consequently, “extreme diffuse hair loss.” In more serious cases, exposure to the allergens in Olaplex items can trigger an auto-immune response, such as alopecia areata, the suit adds. The case also contends that Olaplex products include an excessive amount of “plasticizing agents” such as glycol, the overuse of which can weaken and damage hair. With regard to the Olaplex products’ one-time inclusion of lilial, a synthetic scent ingredient, the lawsuit says the European Union Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety in 2020 demanded that the ingredient be phased out of hair and beauty products by March 2022. According to EWG.org, lilial has been identified as having endocrine-disrupting properties, meaning it can interfere with natural hormone functions and may pose a risk to fertility and fetal development. A review of an archived version of Sephora’s website shows that the beauty retailer required Olaplex to remove lilial from its products in 2020 or early 2021, the case says. According to its own public statements, however, Olaplex did not remove lilial from products sold elsewhere in the U.S. and European Union until February 2022 and, at any rate, should have pulled the items entirely from stores, the lawsuit says. Olaplex should have recalled the dangerous Products, requiring that retailers and distributors either (1) return these Products, or (2) destroy them and provide proof of destruction. Instead, we understand Olaplex continues to sell and allows retailers and distributors to continue to sell the runoff inventory it knows contains a dangerous ingredient.” Lastly, the complaint contends that the instructions for using Olaplex products exacerbate the injuries experienced by consumers, who are directed or encouraged to leave the products in their hair for “long periods of time or indefinitely.” The defendants never warn buyers that the longer they’re exposed to “problematic ingredients” in the items, the greater their risk of seborrheic dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis or the harmful effects of plasticizing agents, the suit says. Which Olaplex products are mentioned in the lawsuit? The Olaplex products mentioned in the lawsuit include Olaplex No. 0, Olaplex No. 1, Olaplex No. 2, Olaplex No. 3, Olaplex No. 4, Olaplex No. 5, Olaplex No. 6, Olaplex No. 7, Olaplex No. 8 and Olaplex No. 9. According to the case, each plaintiff has experienced “serious injury” as a result of using Olaplex products. Some have lost hair—“in some cases more than half and leaving bald spots in others,” the suit says—while others have been left with hair that’s “dry, brittle, frizzy and dull.” “The hair has split and broken, causing it to look unkept and as if it were cut with a weedwhacker,” the case describes, noting that the products have also changed the texture of the plaintiffs’ hair while causing scalp injuries such as “extreme itchiness, rash, yeast infection, bacterial infection, open sores, burning and overall sensitivity,” as well as psychological harm. Is this lawsuit a class action? No, the lawsuit detailed on this page is not a class action, a type of lawsuit filed by one or more individuals on behalf of a larger group who allegedly suffered a similar – but relatively small – injury, usually financial in nature. The 28 plaintiffs who filed the case are instead pursuing damages for their “personal injuries, primarily to their hair and scalp” and want the court to order Olaplex to stop its “unfair, false and deceptive advertising and marketing.” This doesn’t rule out, however, the possibility of a class action being filed over Olaplex products in the future to compensate those who purchased the products and may have been misled by the defendants’ claims. If you want more information on how to start a class action lawsuit, head on over to this page. With so many men’s and women’s hair products on the market these days it can be difficult to keep track of them all. Most people seem to have a basic understanding of products like gels, pomades, creams, leave-in conditions and why they are used – but what about lesser known products like texture powders and dry shampoos? What’s the purpose of using these products and how can they help me get the hairstyle that I want? Well, hopefully we’ll be able to break the difference between the two hair product types so that it’s simple and easy to understand – having the proper information will help you make the right decision as to whether or not texture powder or dry shampoo should be added to your daily hair care routine.
What is Texture Powder? Texture powder is an incredibly fine, lightweight dry powder that doesn’t have a fragrance and has a tacky feel to it. It’ll leave your hair with a dry, matte finish with a texture that reminds us of cotton candy (that’s probably the best way we can describe it). The main ingredient for most texture powders is silica silylate, which is a type of silica particulate that has unique physical properties. Its rough, jagged edges allow it to effectively bind to the hair shaft and create a sort of friction between them. What’s great about these powders is that they are so effective at binding to the hair that only a little amount is needed to get the desired volume effect. What is the Purpose of Texture Powder? Several men’s hairstyles (and women too) require a lot of volume in their hair to get the right look. For certain hair types (particularly those with finer hair) creating and holding volume throughout the day is extremely difficult. Finer hair tends to lay flat and lifeless so an added boost is needed. Using the texture powder as a pre-styler is one of the best options for providing that initial volume to your hairstyle. Note that sometimes these texture powders are called boost powders, texturizing powders, or volumizing powders but their overall purpose is the same - to instantly give extra oomph to your hairstyle. How Does Texture Powder Work? Apply the texture powder by sprinkling it specifically at the roots or all over your head in a fine dusting – just make sure you cover any section of hair that you want to add volume. Spread it around with your fingertips to ensure there isn’t a high concentration of it within one location and to ensure even coverage (you don’t want to see any white clumps due to too much powder in one place). The product will add a sort of friction to your hair, so don’t be too rough or you’ll feel like you’re pulling your hair out. Using a scrunching method is recommended if running your fingers through it is too difficult. What you’ll instantly notice is that your hair will feel thicker and have greater volume than ever before - this is due to the silica effectively binding to the hairs together causing it to stack vertically on top of itself rather than falling flat. Essentially, this sort of friction allows the individual hairs to “support” each other vertically which results in volumized hair, and prevents the hairs from sliding past each other and laying flat. What is the Purpose of Dry Shampoo? The other dry product that seems to be super popular (and a little misunderstood) is dry shampoo. They are typically alcohol or starch-based products that come in three forms: a dry powder, an aerosol spray, or in a liquid. Dry shampoos are sometimes seen as a complete substitute for wet washing your hair – this couldn’t be further from the truth. You still need to shampoo and condition your hair and scalp on a regular basis to remove excess oil, dirt, debris in order to keep it healthy and clean. But if you are looking to freshen up your look at the end of the day or even lengthen the time between washes, then dry shampooing your hair might be a good option. While dry shampoos do not actually clean your hair and scalp, they do temporarily make your hair feel less oily and greasy by soaking up excess oil that tends to weigh down your hair. How Do You Use Dry Shampoo? Apply the dry shampoo to any oily, greasy section of your hair particularly the roots. If using an aerosol dry shampoo, keep the canister about 6” away while spraying to prevent too much dry shampoo from collecting in one area (comb or brush any areas where too much is added to evenly spread it around). The dry shampoo will effectively soak up the oil in the hair resulting in a refreshed look without all of the hassle of washing, conditioning, blow-drying, etc. What are Alternatives to Dry Shampoo? In the past, many home remedies for dry shampoos existed and they consisted of things like talcum powders, starches, clays, and vegetable powders. But with the resurgence of these products, companies have found ways to put those natural ingredients into an aerosol so that you can apply them more evenly without over-doing it. Final Thoughts It’s obvious that these two products are quite different, and they are definitely items you should consider adding to your hair arsenal. Texture Powder is great for adding volume to your hair which is perfect for men and women whose hair tends to lay flat. While Dry Shampoo is an excellent choice for those who need to freshen up without having to go through a shower routine to make their hair look great. Either way, try them out for yourself and see what you think. from Mister Pompadour |
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