Category: Balayage

6/27/2023

The “Scandi Hairline” Trend Will be Everywhere This Summer

The best part: It's not just for blondes.
#scandinavianhairline

If you’ve ever marveled at the light, natural highlights found in Scandinavian hair, then you’re already in the know on the latest hair trend.

“Regardless of their hair color, their hairline, face frames and baby hairs are so effortlessly kissed by the sun and stand out so much lighter and brighter than the rest of the hair on their head,” explains New York City hairstylist Jaclyn Seabrooke. “The way the highlights peek out from underneath around the face is so subtle and flattering, as opposed to the bold, solid money piece technique that was previously trending.”

This effortless effect has given rise to the trending Scandinavian Hairline—also known as the “Scandi Hairline”—color technique. Ahead, Seabrooke shares her insight on the latest color trend we predict will be spotted everywhere this summer.

What is the Scandi Hairline?
“The ‘Scandi Hairline’—or Scandinavian Hairline—is a color technique that immediately brightens the edge of the hairline around the face a touch lighter and brighter than the rest of your hair to replicate how the sun hits the hairline.”

The Process:
Typically performed at the wash basin after other highlighting or balayage services, the “Scandi Hairline” technique involves selecting a small section of hair, about half an inch wide, along the hairline. This section is then processed with freehand lightener for a duration of up to 5 minutes. “To achieve a seamless blend, it’s important that the hairline color is just one or two shades lighter than the rest of your hair,” says Seabrooke. “This ensures a natural look that enhances the beauty of your baby hairs and hairline.”

From Natural to Dramatic:
The beauty of the “Scandi Hairline” trend lies in its versatility. “This technique is not just for blondes, but can be achieved for redheads, brunettes and darker hair shades that also want brightness to soften the look of baby hairs and the hairline for a really natural brightening effect,” Seabrooke explains. “The technique can look incredibly natural, seamlessly blending with your full hair color, or it can be combined with stronger face-frame highlights for a more dramatic effect.”

Maintenance and Touch-Ups:
To keep your “Scandi Hairline” looking fresh and vibrant, regular touch-ups are recommended every 12 weeks. For brunettes and darker shades, Seabrooke recommends incorporating a gloss or toner to eliminate any unwanted brassy tones, further enhancing the natural, sunkissed look.

from NewBeauty

3/12/2021 0 Comments

Dear Clients, Read This Before Going Blonde!

5 Truths Every Client Should Read
Before Going Blonde

So, your client (that's you) wants to go blonde with their one-hour appointment, previously colored hair and drugstore-bought products at home. This situation is all too common for colorists. That’s why we’ve rounded up some blonding real talk you can share with clients who want to go brighter. Keep reading, have the proper consultations and start your client’s journey to blonde the right way!

Truth #1: Your Appointment Might Take 3+ Hours

“Reality is, it takes up to 50 minutes for hair to lift to the shade you want and love. That’s an entire hour of your appointment that you’re just hanging out waiting,” @laurenbartonhair wrote in a recent IG post. “Trust me though, it’s worth taking small little baby sections, foiling your head til it gets heavy and letting it sit for the full amount of time.”

Here’s why it’s worth it: Taking a transformation step by step with the proper processing times prevents hair from lifting to a dark yellow or uneven tones that can’t be fixed with a toner or purple shampoo!

Check Out This Processing Time Breakdown Below

Here’s another visual from @tialambourn_hair: This is the same foil, just 15 minutes later! This means there is only a 15-minute processing time difference between lifting from a Level 8 to a pale Level 9 or 10—aka EVERY minute counts.

Truth #2: Your Stylist Will Know If You Used Box Dye—Be Honest

Bleach doesn’t lie! What happens when a client comes in with box dye and the stylist does a strand test? The truth comes out. “Clients, please let your colorist know a detailed hair history of color, products, [type] of water you shampoo your hair with and medications,” suggests @jessicascotthair.

Here’s an example:
When Jessica did a strand test on her box dye client (see below), she was confronted with intense bands. With this hair history, be prepared for warm tones, multiple sessions and hundreds of dollars to go lighter.
“For this client, we had to glaze her to the darkest level lift there was in this picture. So basically she ended up [with] a dark brown from her starting point which was black,” Jessica wrote.

Truth #3: Clients With Curls, This One’s For You!

Let’s talk about highlighting curls. Here’s a quick breakdown of what curly girls should take into consideration when requesting bright highlights on naturally curly hair from @looksbylacie.

Starting Point: “Your results will be based on YOUR starting point. How your hair will lift depends on what you already have going on with your hair—if you already have color or if you don’t,” Lacie said.
Protecting The Curl Pattern: Your curls need to be healthy enough to lighten, so you don’t disrupt the curl pattern. “Lifting too aggressively without a solid plan can result in a loss of curl pattern or damage,” adds Lacie.
Trust Your Colorist: Just because your hair has heat or color damage, doesn’t mean you can never try bright highlights—but wait until your hair isn’t compromised. Be open to your colorist’s game plan and patient with the process to reach your dream hair.

What happens when curls are overprocessed?
Watch this video from @bumbunniii below!

Truth #4: You Need To Maintain Your Color At Home

You leave the salon loving your blonde color, but a few weeks later it’s feeling brassy and coarse—this isn’t uncommon. Color maintenance is KEY. “Light blonde color on textured hair can be the most DIFFICULT to maintain! Colors like this are not for the faint of heart and require major TLC in and outside of the salon,” shares @haircolorkilla.

That’s why Kara always STRONGLY recommends that her clients use a toning washing system like the Matrix So Silver Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask trio to keep color fresh and yellow-free.

For clients with curly and textured hair, it’s also important to add protein and moisture. Kara recommends products like the Redken Extreme Hair Strengthening line that brings protein to the core of the hair fiber.

Truth #5: Here’s How You’re Going To Get That Lived-In Look

When we talk about “root shading,” here’s what we mean: a demi-permanent color tapped at the roots to blur out any highlight lines for a more lived-in look. Here’s why it works.

“Not only does this give a more natural look but it allows your grow out to look SEAMLESS for 12+ weeks,” @hair_by_mallory_ wrote in a recent IG post. “Where as a non-root shaded look would look grown out in anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks! Some of my clients go anywhere from 3 to 6 months with this technique!”

Pssst… colorists, do you LOVE this blonde? Same. Mallory pre-toned with Moroccanoil® Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo to get these bright, clear blonde results.

Check Out The Full IG Post Below

From Behind the Chair

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8/1/2020 0 Comments

As the Chair Turns - August 2020

Well, here we are are again.

I hope you are finding new and creative ways to fill your days. I’ve been keeping up with a few of you on Facebook and Instagram and have really enjoyed following your adventures. It’s not quite the same as hearing it from you directly, but it is the next best thing to being there. Quirky as that’s sounds, it’s true.

I had so many good intentions of things I’d hoped to accomplish and get done when we were first quarantined. Did any of them get accomplished? Hmm? Maybe? I sure as heck wasn’t successful at crocheting. It was funny (before it got frustrating) at how uncoordinated I was with that crochet hook. I’m going to blame it on the yarn. Yeah, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. 😜

The first month of quarantine my focus was to be prepared for when the salon would be able to reopen. I wanted to make sure I was doing all I could to keep you safe and protected. My front hallway was stacking up with cleaning & disinfecting solutions, a pressurized sprayer for the disinfecting solution, masks (for you), cutting capes (a clean one for each service), neck strips, an IR thermometer gun (for when you enter the salon), paper towels & wipes, handsfree hand sanitizer and soap dispensers (no touching), and bins for clean and soiled items (everything is single use or disinfected after each service). All of this preparation was, again, because I want to make sure I’m keeping you as safe as possible while you’re in the salon. I’ve been able to take some of those supplies to the salon so my hallway isn’t quite as “cluttered”. When we are eventually allowed to reopen I think, no, I AM ready for you.

I’m still trying to include articles in this newsletter that are relevant and helpful during the times we’re experiencing. I have several articles saved on trips, travels, and outdoor activities that just aren’t conducive to safe distancing so I’ll be saving them for another time.

The coronavirus, the anxieties of keeping ourselves and family members healthy during the pandemic, and the insecurities of finances and our homes are causing a new, unexpected consequence: hair loss. Stress and/or anxiety sustained over a period of 3 months or longer shocks our system and triggers something called telogen effluvium, a temporary form of hair loss caused by a physical or emotional stress, high fever, illness or weight loss of more than 20 pounds — symptoms common with the virus. I have a couple articles for you on this recently identified consequence associated with the coronavirus.

When this first started I shared that you should expect some hair loss over the next few months. It has now been more than 4 months since we’ve been quarantined. Many of you may have already noticed some extra hair shedding the last couple of months. I know I have. Those of you with shorter hair may not notice the shedding as much because your hair is short and just washing down the drain (sorry). It just won’t feel as think as usual. The good thing about this type of hair loss is that once the “stressor” has been alleviated your hair will start to grow back. It may take a few months before you notice any new growth, but you will eventually see those “baby hairs” throughout you scalp.

I’ve mentioned CBD in previous newsletters. I’m a fan of CBD and have noticed the benefits. I stumbled across a NO-BS guide for understanding CBD that I’m sharing with you this month. It is very important that you do your own research and find your own comfort levels on whether or not it’s right for you. I hope this guide helps with some of your questions.

I mentioned anxieties and stress above. Breathing is known to be an anxiety taming exercise. I have an article and a stream for you on how to use breathing to improve your heath.

I also have articles on things you’re doing that might be damaging your hair, men’s Summer cuts, and even a 30 minute Home Walking video.

It is really impossible to let you know how much I’ve missed each and every one of you. Words on a page just cannot express those kinds of feelings. I know I’ve said this before but I am truly looking forward to the day (hopefully soon) when we will see each other face to face.

I am available by email, text or phone if you have any questions or concerns. Or just want to chat.

Be well. Take Hair! AND #MaskUp 😷

What’s Inside This Month

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8/5/2019 0 Comments

Haircut Terms for Better Communication with Your Stylist

Getting a haircut can be exciting and scary at the same time, especially when you are trying out a new stylist. Communication is one the most important part of our craft as hairstylists; without it, we will never be able to know what you want. It’s almost as if we speak a different language than you do, called hair talk. Here are 25 of the most important haircut terms to help you better communicate with your stylist!

The Haircut Terminology You Need to Know

A long time ago, when I wasn’t a hairstylist, my mom and I went to see the same hairdresser to get our haircut. After having our consultation together, it turned out that, in the end, I got the haircut my mom wanted, and she got what I wanted. So, you can imagine how we looked. Luckily, we are super easygoing and just let it grow out. But, that’s not the case for everyone. These words and phrases will help you better understand hair-cutting terminology, so you can better explain to your stylist what you want and actually understand what she is saying to you!

Don’t Talk Inches: Everyone’s “inch” looks different. Instead, show your stylist where you want to see your overall length, using your body as reference points, e.g., collar bone, above the breast or chin length are great points of reference.
Face-Framing Layers: This can go very wrong, if you don’t let your stylist know how short she can go for your shortest layer and what length would keep you comfortable. For example, if you have long hair and want face-framing layers, you need to decide how short the shortest layer can be; maybe it brushes the collar bone.
Bangs/Fringe: Also, bring a reference of where you want to see the length and style of your bangs. For example, a curtain fringe is a much longer, softer look that frames the face much like a curtain frames a window, rather than a solid blunt bang that sits heavy on the forehead and is usually cut above the brows to draw attention to the face and eyes.
Wispy Ends: This term refers to how the ends of your hair look. This can be achieved with a razor or scissors. The result is soft ends, with less density, that blend into each other, ideal for those with higher density hair and a straighter texture. When done well, wispy ends can provide movement and texture to hair that otherwise lacks it.
Blunt Edges: This term refers to how the ends of the hair look. This is achieved with scissors and leaves the most amount of density on the ends, thus providing the least amount of movement and texture. Recommended for those with super fine hair and curly hair.
A-Line: This term refers to how the perimeter, or length, of hair is cut. This is shorter in the back and longer in the front. It’s up to you to decide how severe the A-line is, so go to your stylist prepared to answer some questions about length.
Asymmetric: This is a term that can be easily confused. This refers to a haircut that is two different lengths. It can be designed disconnected or connected to the other side of your haircut. Typically, when talking about asymmetry, we are talking about the length you see in the front of your hair. For example, the left side can be cut to your chin and the right side can be longer down to your shoulder.
Undercut: This is used to remove bulk in the bottom half of your hair near the nape and can be used in any haircut, if designed well. It can also vary in length from long to shaved, depending on the look you want.
Micro Fringe: This is a term used for super short bangs that are incorporated into the rest of your hair. Typically, the length is about two inches long.
Shattered Ends: This is another term used to describe how you want your ends to look. Typically, they’re cut using a point-cutting technique to create irregularities in the length of hair. If you think about how a piece of glass shatters when it’s hit; it breaks in different directions. This gives you movement while maintaining a healthy density on the ends.
One Length: This is pretty self-explanatory. There are no layers in this cut. This look is heavy and flat, great for those with low density.
Square Bob: This is more of a technique and haircut, rather than a term. I’m always getting clients asking for blunt bobs, which is technically a square bob. It’s a strong and well-balanced shape, but it provides little volume or movement if you soften the ends a bit with a little point cutting.
Shaggy Layers: Just FYI, this is a very layered haircut, and, when done wrong, it will look like a mullet. But, if it’s done right, this is a super rad haircut. This can result in short layers on the crown and gradually gets longer, as you work your way to the ends.
Graduation: This is another technique common in haircutting. Although there are only three types of graduation, the most common is the triangle. It’s short in the back, longer in the front and can be designed in various lengths. For example, Victoria Beckham’s brunette graduated bob from the mid-2000s was a popular haircut.
De-Bulking: This is something we do with those who have a mammoth amount of hair. It can be done with texturizing shears, undercuts or layering. But, before you go and ask your stylist to de-bulk your hair, you need to be very clear as to where your hair feels the heaviest and how you much bulk you want to remove. This is a method that should be done with extreme care. The point of doing this is to help balance the density throughout the hair, rather than “thinning it out”; no one wants thin hair.
Razor Cut: You can have an entire haircut done with a razor. This will result in a super soft and feathered look.
Lived-In: I included this look because, in the last few years, when that “lived-in texture”, coined by Anh Co Tran from Ramirez tran, hit salons across North America, it has taken off. This results in a super, soft livable worn-in, beachy texture. However, not everyone knows how to execute this, so if you are interested in this look, you need to find someone who has experience, because when it comes to haircuts, execution is KEY!
Movement: Although not a technique used by hairstylists, it’s something we want to achieve in haircuts, especially that long, flowy hair. If it doesn’t move, it lacks volume, and most people want volume and movement. This can be achieved with layering, texturing the ends and using the correct shampoos and conditioners to help prevent buildup.
Density: This, also, is not a technique but good to understand. Density refers to how much hair you have on your head. This is so important to know as hairstylists because, if we don’t analyze your hair density, we won’t be able to give you a great haircut. So, those with low-density hair should have almost no layers and medium density can work with texture. For those with high-density hair, you can layer your locks by de-bulking and texturing. So, basically, the more hair you have, the more we can work with.
Texture: You need to know your own texture and learn how to work with it. This is also important when you are visiting a new stylist or changing up your hair look. If you are someone with coarse, frizzy and curly hair, and you rarely wear your hair straight, it’s best to go in with your hair naturally styled, so your stylist has an idea of what they are working with. Also, bringing in some inspiration pictures of others with similar texture, but not really styled too much, will also make your haircutting results more successful. The same goes for those who don’t have any experience doing their hair and want a wash-and-wear style; make sure your stylist is aware that you want an easy style.
Short Pixie Hair: Pixie is a style that is short; it is cut above the ears, and, in so many variations, depending on the shape you want. It can be done round, disconnected, long fringe short sides, can be textured or flat. Really, the possibilities are endless, if your hair allows it.
Medium Pixie Hair: This, unlike its short friend, has a bit more length and density to it. Not so bold and funky; a bit more soft and subtle with a hint of edge.
Long Pixie: This lays somewhere between a medium pixie and a bob and, like the other pixies, its possibilities are also endless, depending on your hair and your hairstylist’s abilities to think outside the box.
Creative Haircut: I like this one. It leaves your hairstyle in the hands of the artist. Only go down this route if you absolutely 100% trust and believe in your stylist and you’re ready for a change.
Precision vs. Texture: A precision haircut is like a well-crafted piece of architecture – every hair has a place and is done at precise angles and lengths to achieve a defined shape. A textured haircut is much like sculpting – you don’t always have a definitive guide, but visually, it looks balanced and intentional. It’s created using texturing methods with free-hand layering and is visually designed.

My recommendation to you is that, if you want a haircut that works with the hair you have, find someone who specializes solely on cutting and styling hair. Chances are that she/he spends time educating themselves and will have more experience with using different techniques to achieve their customers’ dream hairstyles.

These communication tips were found at The Right Hairstyles

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10/12/2018

Balayage vs. Ombré: What’s The Difference and Which is Best For You?

Sometimes it seems like your hair stylist is speaking a foreign language. Balayage. Ombré. Sombré. Foilayage. Translation please! Here’s how to understand the difference between ombré, balayage and everything in-between, and how to figure out the best hair color solution for you!

Ombré: The Striking Hair Color Solution

What is ombré?

In French, ombré means “shade” or “shadow.” In the hair color world, ombré is a dramatic, two-toned hair color effect that is typically darker at the top and lighter on the bottom. Often the dark, top section is your natural hair color shade and the bottom section is lightened with hair lightener. An ombré hairstyle can also be any color combination—natural blonde, brown or red, or something unconventional like pink, blue, green or purple. It’s versatile, customizable and suitable for most long and medium hair lengths. A big plus with ombré hair color is that it’s easy on the budget. You don’t have to touch it up very often since the top section remains dark. The overall look of ombré hair color can change as your hair grows out, which many clients enjoy!

The different types of ombré:

A subtler version of ombré is called sombré. In a sombré hairstyle, the contrast between the two tones is softer. Another variation is called color melting. In color melting, two or three hair color shades may be used on each strand, and each shade is blended with the side of the hair color brush so that they appear to melt into each other. Like ombré, color melting can be done with natural-looking hair color shades or with any of the fun colors of the rainbow!

Is ombré for you?

If you like to make a statement with your hair, if you’re creative and adventurous with your personal style, go for it! Just be sure your hair is healthy to begin with, otherwise your hair color will look dull and will fade quickly. If necessary, spend some time using healthy, healing conditioning treatments and hair masks to improve the condition of your hair before heading to the salon for your ombré hair color!

Balayage: The Subtle Hair Color Solution

What is balayage?

In French, balayage means “sweeping.” In the hair color world, balayage highlights are hand-painted or swept along the surface of the hair. The application begins away from the roots and gradually becomes heavier as it travels along the section, culminating in the heaviest application of lightener or hair color at the ends. Because the hair color or lightener is concentrated on the surface of each section, the underside remains darker, which gives the hair a very natural, dimensional effect. The resulting subtle balayage hairstyle mimics a natural, sun-kissed effect that has been in high demand from celebrities, models and high profile “it” girls for some time now. Balayage can be done on any hair color, from blonde hair to red hair to brown hair, although it’s typically not the first choice for super dark brunettes. It’s beautiful on long hair and on medium-length hair. Like ombré, balayage highlights are cost-effective because they don’t require frequent touchups, since the hair at the top is kept darker.

The different types of balayage:

Because balayage is a hand-painting technique, the artistry of your hair stylist comes into play and allows for many variations and beautiful color compositions. Hair color artists might combine several shades, for example, for a shimmering, dimensional result. If your hair is dark, they may opt for a foilayage technique. In foilayage, instead of allowing the balayage highlights to process in the air after they’re applied, they’re wrapped in foil, which provides more heat, and therefore amplifies the lightening process. Balayage may also be combined with conventional highlights placed closer to the face, or with fine, baby-lights placed around the face and hairline for a complexion-boosting glow.

Is balayage for you?

If you love sexy, natural-looking hair color (and who doesn’t?) balayage is a beautiful choice! Balayage hair color will bring nearly every hairstyle to life!

How to Care for Your Ombré or Balayage Hair Color

1. Embrace the “bond” difference.

Whether you’re going for a subtle glow or a major hair color transformation with your ombré or balayage hair color, new bonding technology can make all the difference between hair that emerges damaged and hair that stays healthy, shiny and lustrous. It starts in the salon, with professional hair bond repair additives that protect the structural bonds of your hair during the highlighting process, and prevent additional damage from occurring. It continues at home with a revolutionary, three-step Re-Bonding system that continues to reconstruct damaged hair at the deepest level—fortifying, strengthening and smoothing your colored or lightened locks.

2. Keep up your good work.

Once the Re-Bonding system has repaired your hair, maintain your hair color investment with hair-color-friendly, sulfate-free, natural-origin hair care products that gently bathe the hair, leaving your hair color shiny; extending color vibrancy and resulting in hair that’s supple, conditioned and soft to the touch. It’s also a good idea to protect your hair from too much exposure to UV light, from chlorine or saltwater and from frequent, direct contact with hot tools—all of which can alter your hue or cause premature fading.

This article first appeared on Matrix

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YOUR CART

The “Scandi Hairline” Trend Will be Everywhere This Summer

Dear Clients, Read This Before Going Blonde!

5 Truths Every Client Should Read
Before Going Blonde

As the Chair Turns - August 2020

Haircut Terms for Better Communication with Your Stylist

Balayage vs. Ombré: What’s The Difference and Which is Best For You?

Hair by Brian

Categories

Archives

YOUR CART

The “Scandi Hairline” Trend Will be Everywhere This Summer

Dear Clients, Read This Before Going Blonde!

5 Truths Every Client Should Read ​Before Going Blonde

As the Chair Turns - August 2020

Haircut Terms for Better Communication with Your Stylist

Balayage vs. Ombré: What’s The Difference and Which is Best For You?

Hair by Brian

Categories

Archives

5 Truths Every Client Should Read
Before Going Blonde