​Break These Bad Habits ASAP
By Del Sandeen
 
Does it seem as if your hair isn't growing? Well, most likely, it is (if it truly isn't, there may be an underlying health reason, in which case you should consult a doctor). But if your hair breaks off at an equal or higher rate than it grows, you'll never see any length gains.
 
Hair may show stagnant or negative growth rates for a number of reasons. Do any of these sound familiar to you? Because if they do, it's imperative to break these bad hair habits and begin promoting healthy practices that allow you to keep every inch of growth possible.

1.  Chemical Overprocessing
Overlapping relaxers, aggressive bleaching and applying too many chemicals to tresses are all prime culprits in damage to black hair (all hair types, actually). Damaged hair will still grow from the scalp, but it often breaks off at the ends or requires a drastic cut to get rid of unhealthy sections. Ask yourself if you:

• Relax / texturize / color your mane at home
• Have a chemical straightening process and color
• Have a hair color at least two shades lighter than your natural shade

If you answered yes to any of these, it's possible that your hair is overprocessed. Although stylists aren't always foolproof, it's usually better to receive chemical services in a salon at the hands of a capable professional.
 
2.  Trimming Too Often
You can have too much of a good thing, and trims fall into this category if you want longer hair. Many women resort to trimming their own hair at home after suffering the results of a scissor-happy stylist. Healthy hair doesn't require as many trims as unhealthy tresses; the less you do to your hair, the less likely you'll need frequent trims that take off an inch or more. Hair grows an average of 1/4 to 1/2 inch per month, so if you care for your hair properly, you don't need to cut more than 1/2 inch every few months or so if you want to see growth.
 
3.  Lack of Conditioning
Dry, brittle hair can happen to anyone if she's not diligent about conditioning. Black hair (basically curly hair) often craves moisture, even natural locks. If you're not currently:

• Applying a moisturizer as needed, whether once a day or several times per week
• Deep conditioning at least twice per month
• Conditioning after every shampoo
• Applying a leave-in conditioner after a shampoo/condition session

​you may need to start. It's very difficult to over-condition black hair (or curly hair), so the more moisturizing products and practices you use, the better conditioned -- and less likely to break -- your tresses will be.
 
4.  Poor Protein Structure
Along with a good moisture level, hair needs a suitable protein balance to remain strong. The more chemicals or harsh practices that your mane goes through, the more important protein becomes, simply because every relaxer/touch-up, color and even flat iron press compromises the strength of your strands' cuticles. Weak hair usually breaks, after becoming thinner and less elastic over time. Because hair is comprised of protein, it needs protein in some form or other. As long as you follow a healthy regimen, you won't need as much protein as someone who doesn't, but a little protein helps most women maintain strong tresses.

5.  Traction Alopecia
Tight styles, particularly ones that pull at the hairline, can do serious damage; in some cases, this damage is permanent, killing follicles forever. If your hairline is sparse, this condition may unfortunately be irreversible. Braids that are too tight, ponytails that pull, suffocating weaves and more are all styles that need to be abandoned. In many cases, a mindset is what needs to change at the same time the style changes. Sleek, straight hair that's pulled within an inch of its life may look good, but healthy hair is about so much more than appearance. It may be time to reexamine your usual hairdos if you realize they're often too tight for your own good.

Step-by-step directions and a few awesome tips
By Julyne Derrick
 
I feel like I've seen an inordinate amount of celebrities on TV with their hair wound up in Velcro rollers. They are usually sitting in a chair on their cell phones while someone valiantly attempts to do their makeup.

So what's the big deal with Velcro rollers? Why would one use them?

Rollers are the secret to adding volume and body to hair, especially around the crown area.

"Many hairstylists set their clients' hair in curlers no matter what style they're going for, from updos to long waves," says says pro stylist Garren in InStyle magazine. "They give the hair a lush fullness you can't get otherwise."

You can use those old-fashioned hot rollers you probably have stored away in the back of your bathroom closet, but Velcro rollers are the hot tools of choice. And the bigger the size of the roller, the better, otherwise you can end up with curls, when what you are really going after is body.

You don't need long hair to use rollers. Because Velcro rollers come in all sizes, you can use smaller ones for shorter hair.

To ensure a strong set, spritz hairspray or a setting spray to sections of hair before wrapping them around a roller. And rollers work best on hair that's been blow-dried. Any moisture in your hair and it won't keep a curl.
 
The best thing is you don't have to roll your entire head to get the desired effect. For optimal volume for little effort, simply roll the top section of hair. You can also just roll your bangs if you choose, or even your entire head.

Step-by-Step DirectionsHere's how to properly use Velcro or hot rollers to give your hair more body:

1. I usually skip this step, but some women swear by it. Separate your hair into sections. To do this, first separate your hair horizontally into a top section and a bottom section by taking your thumbs and running them through your hair from the top of your ears to the back. Then separate the top and bottom sections into 3 sections. Your sections should be about 2- to 3-inches and never wider than the roller.
2. Starting with the top middle section, spritz hair with product then wind hair up or under (it's up to you). Secure.
3. Continue wrapping hair all around the head. If you have a lot of hair (I have a ton of fine hair), you may need to do more sections than if you don't have much hair.
4. Blast your curled hair with a blowdryer.
5. Let set for at least 10 minutes. I recommend doing your makeup while your hair sets.
6. Remove the rollers carefully, hair can easily tangle in a Velcro roller.
7. Finger comb hair and end with a spritz of hairspray. Don't go overboard with the spray, you want hair to move.

How to Use Hot Rollers to Give Hair VolumeIf you are using hot rollers, it's best to use ones with a metal core. The heat transmits much more effectively. Hot rollers can make hair too curly. To combat this, try leaving out the ends of your hair, says stylist Eva Scrivo in her book Eva Scrivo on Beauty. To do this, position the roller 1 to 2 inches from the end of your hair and roll toward the head, leaving the ends out. Scrivo recommends palming a dab of pomade or wax through hair to give it that "sexy, slept-in look."