Perms have come a long way since the 80s when people sported the very fake "crimped" perm. These days, perms can be fine-tuned to give you exactly the kind of wave you want. You can get perms that just add body to fine, limp hair; you can get loose, sexy waves or you can go for the corkscrew curls that many straight-haired girls covet (and some curly-all-their-lives girls are sick of). You can also use perm solution to create a "straight perm," which will semi-straighten curly or wavy hair.

So are you a good candidate for a perm?  How long do they last and; most importantly, how do you avoid getting the perm you don't want? The following are 10 rules to live by when it comes to perms in this day and age:

Are You a Good Candidate for a Perm?

Perms work best on hair that has not been colored or highlighted. The chemicals are too harsh for double-processed or heavily highlighted hair.

Perming hair that's already damaged from highlights or hair color can result in more damage and major frizz. And if you don't like your new hairstyle, you cannot chemically straighten it back to the way it was before. Your hair could break off near the scalp.

If you have dry hair or loads of short layers, you aren't a great candidate for a perm. Perms will dry hair out even more and a perm on short, layered hair could leave you looking like a poodle.

Not sure if your hair is a good candidate for a perm?

Ask your stylist. You'll want to tell him or her every chemical process your hair has been through in the past few months.

One way you can find out if your hair is damaged and can't withstand more chemical processing is to do the old float trick: take a few strands of hair and put them in a glass of water, if they sink, this means your hair is damaged and is soaking up moisture.

If the strands float, this means your hair is healthy.

Black hair and Asian hair can also be difficult, but not impossible, to perm. You'll want someone who specializes in your type of hair texture.

Oh and one other tip: The thicker your hair, the better the perm will take.

How Long Does a Perm Take and How Long Does it Last?

Perms take one to two hours, depending on how long your hair is and how fast your stylist is. Your stylist will apply a single chemical solution to break the structural bonds in your hair, and another called a "neutralizer." Also, keep in mind, a perm takes 28 hours to relax. Give it some time before you get too worried about the end result.

Most perms generally last about six months. Unlike some hair color, a perm won't wash out, it has to grow out.

Can I Use a Perm to Straighten My Hair?

There are many ways to chemically straighten hair, and perm solutions are one of them. These are called "straight perms." It's recommended to get them done in a salon, but you can do them at home with perm solution and a wide-toothed comb.

For straight hair, a professional will apply the perm solution to curly hair, combing it out until it's straight and then rinsing out the solution.

You have to keep combing hair so it doesn't naturally curl up. A neutralizer is then applied and rinsed out. To tone down super curly, out-of-control hair into more manageable waves or fatter curls, the stylist may wind hair onto large rods. This leaves the hair at the roots straighter and frizz-free​ while leaving your hair will curls that are pretty manageable. Unfortunately, however, the hair that grows in will be curly.

Head to a salon to find your best bets for chemically straightening your hair. You might be a better candidate for thermal reconditioning (aka Japanese straightening) or Brazilian straightening.

As for trying this at home, many people do "straight perms" at home. Find out if you're a candidate and get the directions in How to Give Yourself a Straight Perm.

Are Perms Bad for Your Hair?

Perms, done by a professional on virgin hair (meaning no previous hair color, dye or bleach), won't damage the hair any more than typical hair coloring or hair straightening does.

“Coloring, perming, or straightening the hair is fine as long as the treatment isn’t painful,” says George Cotsarelis, director of the Hair and Scalp Clinic at the Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania to Allure Magazine. “When there is pain, that indicates follicle damage.”

If your hair seems damaged after a perm, make sure to condition it regularly. You could also take biotin, a vitamin that will make the new hair growth stronger.

The Size of the Rod Matters

The tightness of the curl depends on the size of the rod and the length of time the solution stays in. If you're worried you'll end up with too-tight curls, ask your stylist to show you the types of rods she is using.

How to Find a Great Stylist

Not all stylists these days do perms and you don't want one who doesn't do them on a semi-regular basis. I suggest calling salons and asking if they have someone who specializes in perms. You may have to call around a bit to find a specialist. Even in New York City, most salons I've consulted don't have a perm specialist.

What to Bring to Your Appointment

You need to take a picture or pictures with you of the type of wave you want. Just telling your stylist what kind of curl leaves you in jeopardy of getting super-duper tight ringlets. Stylists can control the amount of wave they give you as well as the part of the hair they want to perm. Yours will need to choose the right-sized rods.

To prepare your hair for a perm, you'll want to use a moisturizing conditioner after you shampoo. Avoid deep-conditioning your hair for at least 24 hours before the perm, otherwise, the perm may not take.

Book a Consultation Into Your Appointment

So many stylists will whisk you off to wet your hair without sitting down face-to-face for a good talk. Tell your stylist not only what you want (show the pictures) but what you don't want (i.e. the crimp-like curls of the 80s).

Maintain Your New Perm

To maintain your perm, treat your hair as you would if you had naturally curly hair. Use shampoos and conditioners formulated especially for curly or permed hair.

Make sure you condition your new curls regularly, blow-dry it with a diffuser, and use styling products that intensify or smooth curls. Avoid styling products that contain alcohol, which can cause frizz.
 
This article first appeared on LiveAbout

​How easy is brushing hair?

Simple, right? You do it every morning…

Same technique, same tool…

But what if I told you…

You’ve been doing it wrong your whole life?

Sounds kind of silly? Hear me out…

There might be a BETTER brush you’re unaware of…

that could breed a hairstyle that gives you more confidence…

It’s possible – with the right info.
​

​Straight Thin Hair
When it comes to straight hair in general, there’s a 3-inch rule: if your hair doesn’t bend within the first 3 inches of length from the scalp, it’s straight.
Here are some details that distinguish thin straight hair from its thick counterpart:

• Thin straight hair has a more fragile texture, which means it has to be brushed more carefully.
• It’s more lightweight and tends to fall flat over your head.
• There’s more difficulty in increasing its volume (which is why some men choose a side part hairstyle to shape it up).
• It can get weighed down by hair products, causing the strands to look stringy.
• It’s more prone to becoming oily.

​Straight Thick Hair
These are the key points about thick straight hair that separate it from its thin equivalent:

• Thick straight hair covers the scalp better.
• It contains all 3 hair layers – the cortex, cuticle & medulla – which means it takes more time to dry up.
• The texture isn’t as fragile as thin straight hair, so it can be styled in different ways more easily.
• It may be resistant to certain chemical treatments/relaxers or hair coloring.
• It can have more volume if layered correctly by a stylist
• It tolerates heat better

Wavy Hair
This category refers to the wave-like patterns created by slightly curving hair. The hair shafts do NOT coil up within the first 3 inches of length. Instead, they resemble loose and stretched out S-shapes.

You can grow out wavy hair to resemble a mini lion’s mane and enjoy plenty of texture. However – this will require more maintenance.

One advantage of this hair type is flexibility – it can be styled in several different ways. It’s also less likely to be tousled by the wind than straight hair is. But it also frizzes easily, so it’s important that you maintain the waves.
 
Coiled Hair (Curly With Large Curls)
Large curls require that the shafts create very distinct S-shapes (the more extreme ones being E-shapes) within the first 2 inches from the scalp. People with coiled hair are blessed with lots of coverage over the head.

There are guys who get to grow their hair out and become a “white boy ‘fro.” They don’t have to resort to the same fancy styles that straight-haired men use to add volume.

The actual hair strands here can either be coarse or fine (although it’s more often fine). Coarse strands are more prone to frizziness while with fine strands, it’s harder to create well-defined curls.
 
Kinky Hair (Curly With Tight Curls)
This is the most textured hair type. Its coiled intervals are so short that the shafts form sharp Z-shaped twists (hence “kinky”). These twists form within the first half-inch of length from the scalp.

Kinky hair is most commonly found in men of African descent. The hair can be grown into a classic Afro and gain lots of volume. You can also choose to shave it off and make it a fade cut.

The downside is these coils aren’t as well-defined as large curls, due to their naturally short state. They require much more maintenance since they can look fuzzy and unkempt after some time. Dryness and shrinkage may also be serious problems if you’re not careful.
​

​Choosing the right hair brush can solve different problems your hair might face, or even prevent them from happening at all. That’s why you need to start by knowing the anatomy of a brush.  

As shown above, each hair brush type is totally dependent on the 3 major parts.  

Oval hairbrushes are usually the oval version of the Paddle brush, which does a fantastic job in massaging your scalp and redistributing hair oils.

Rectangle hairbrushes range from the Denman brush or Vented brush to the thinner, rectangular kind of Paddle brush. All of these can create more volume at the roots, flip up the hair or curl it under.

Square hairbrushes are basically the original Paddle brushes (as they resemble paddles). They’re useful in getting rid of frizz or tangles without putting much pressure on the hair.​

Round hairbrushes have either natural or synthetic bristles all over the head. When partnered with a blow dryer, they work great for shaping your hair into multiple styles. But they also come in various sizes – compatible for tight curls or even long waves – so choose the brush size carefully based on your hair length.

​Each Type Of Men’s Hair Brush

Below are the other men’s hairbrush types which are worth considering. Each one of them has its own set of advantages.
 
Pocket Comb

• I love how simple yet effective the pocket comb is. The teeth are closely packed together, allowing it to evenly distribute moisture or product all over the hair.
• Smaller versions can grab at the roots better, which makes it easier to smooth the hair out or style some bangs. This comb also helps if you use any medication for your scalp.
• Best for: Thick Short Straight Hair

Rectangle Brush

• This is a less common form of the paddle brush with a longer and narrower head.
• Best for all hair types

Vented Brush

• This is an all-purpose type of hairbrush. It styles your hair without flattening its shape or hindering the texture. It’s a great choice for adding more volume.
• The bristles are flexible, widely spaced and they pass through the hair smoothly. Holes are included along the backside to allow more airflow. These so-called vents speed up the drying process while heat from the blow dryer targets the hair from different angles.
• Best for: Thin/Thick Straight Hair (any length), Wavy Hair (any length), Coiled Hair (any length)

Military Palm Brush

• If you want ultimate control whenever you brush your hair, this is the type for you. It’s usually made of nylon bristles that efficiently detangle and smooth the hair.
• There’s a durable strap on the back that helps keep your hand stable as you move it around.  It only takes a couple of strokes – going in the direction of the hair growth – to fix up your hair fully.
• Best for: Thin Short Straight Hair, Short Wavy Hair, Coiled Hair (any length), Kinky Hair

Wide-Tooth Comb

• This comb has a row of teeth which are more widely spaced than the average comb or pocket comb.
• The material is normally wood or plastic, but wooden combs are better in distributing oil/product evenly without causing static.
• It runs through the hair smoothly, making it easier to detangle strands.
• It doesn’t require much pulling on wet hair, so there is less risk of damage.
• Best for thin/thick short straight hair, kinky hair and coiled hair (any length).

Oval Brush

• This is an oval version of the paddle brush, with bristles that are more tightly packed.
• Best for wavy hair (any length) and coiled hair (any length).

Paddle Brush

• This brush effectively flattens out frizz, adds more shine and massages the scalp.
• The bristles emerge from a soft rubber cushion that makes them collapse as they touch the scalp – preventing hair from getting split or stretched out.
• The tips are designed to minimize scalp damage or hair snagging.
• It’s recommended that you use it before flat ironing.
• Best for thin/thick long straight hair.

Round Brush

• This cylinder-shaped hairbrush comes in different sizes (smaller ones form tighter curls) and bristle types.
• A round metal barrel (which contains the bristles) gives it a more defined movement.
• The handle comes in a variety of grips that provide traction.
• It’s useful for styles in which the strands have to bend more.
• It’s perfect for men who want to fix up their curls or wavy patterns. 

Denman Brush

• This men’s hairbrush is also known as the classic styling brush.
• The head is designed to bend the hair slightly while you’re brushing it.
• There are traditionally 5, 7 or 9 rows of bristles in order to undo all tangles.
• It does a great job in redistributing oil – adding more shine to your hair.
• Best for short-haired guys who want their hair to appear slightly thicker.

Hair Pick

• This is a flat, squarish comb that’s equipped with long teeth and a handle along the midpoint.
• It’s useful for styling/grooming longer hair.
• Best for kinky hair.

Foldable Comb

• This comb is exactly what the name describes – foldable. The teeth are spaced together tightly.
• The handle also functions as a casing, which comes in handy if you want to take the comb with you to groom your hair throughout the day.
• Best for thin straight hair.

​Hair Brush Sponge

• This is a specialized men’s hairbrush made of high-quality, spongy material.
• It’s meant to run through the hair in small circular motions with a light touch.
• Tiny holes are designed to ensure ideal spacing between each of the twists of your hair.
• It must be used on hair that’s a little damp (using either water or gel).
• Best for kinky hair.

Hair Brush Bristle Types​

Here’s a breakdown of the different types of hairbrush bristles and the benefits of each one.  

​Hair care formulators turn to skin care for the latest concepts in shampoos and conditioners.

They’re already loaded with good-for-you ingredients that promise to give your hair sheen, body and manageability. But today’s shampoos and conditioners promise more than clean, shiny locks. Some of the newest formulas make skin-caring claims; specifically, scalp-caring claims to appeal to health-savvy consumers.

“Consumers now view their hair as an extension of their skin, especially the scalp,” explained Hannah Symons, research manager, beauty and fashion, Euromonitor International. “Scalp health is a growth segment for hair care.”

The move comes at a time when consumers more than ever care about their hair. A mane attraction is the first thing most people notice about each other and looking one’s best often starts at the top. In the US, nearly everyone already shampoos nearly every day; yet, according to IRI data, US mass market shampoo sales, including dandruff formulas, rose more than 3% during the past year to more than $3 billion. Meanwhile, sales of conditioners rose less than 1% to $2.1 billion. The biggest gains, albeit from a smaller base, were in the shampoo and conditioner combo pack category, where sales surged more than 30% to over $230 million, according to IRI.

Within the regular shampoo category, Procter & Gamble dominates with more than 23% of the market. It’s a blowout in the dandruff shampoo segment, where P&G controls nearly 73% of the category, well ahead of private label’s 9.5% share. P&G is tops in conditioners, too, with a market share of more than 19%.

Euromonitor International takes a global approach to the $72 billion hair care market. It predicts that the $16.2 billion conditioner category will post a CAGR of 2% during the next five years, which is faster than 1.5% CAGR expected for the $26.8 billon shampoo market.

The best regions for growth in terms of absolute value are Asia-Pacific, Latin America and North America. But winners and losers in the shampoo and conditioner category are changing, according to Symons.

“We see a change at the top, as P&G is losing share on the global level,” she told Happi.

New Players in a Global Market

Specifically, Procter is falling behind in India and China, where local players that know the consumer’s habits, are making strides. For example, in India, Patanjali is an Ayurvedic company that operates across a range of sectors including food and personal care. Founded by Baba Ramdev, arguably India’s most famous yoga guru, Patanjali’s global sales rose 34% last year, according to Euromonitor International. It’s grabbing market share at the expense of P&G’s Head & Shoulders and Pantene brands.

Also out of India is Dabur, which calls itself the fourth-largest FMCG company in India with sales of more than $1 billion. Products are available in more than 60 countries around the world and international sales account for more than 30% of Dabur’s total revenue.

“Dabur is moving beyond India and into the Middle East, where its products are very popular,” noted Symons. “They understand the consumer market in the Middle East.”

Another example comes from China, where See Young has posted triple-digit gains during the past two years. Thanks to that surge, the Korean brand has pulled ahead of the likes of Neutrogena and John Frieda in Euromonitor’s global rankings.

As fragmentation takes a toll on multinationals’ market share, Euromonitor notes that indie startups have leveraged social media and e-commerce to expand beyond their traditional borders.

“In the future, the winners in the hair care category will be local players who understand the needs of the local population,” asserts Symons. “Instead of trying to crack the US market, they stay closer to home where they better understand the consumer.”

Fast-growing companies to watch, according to Euromonitor, include Ouai, Verb, Form and Deva Curl. Trends to keep an eye on include Halal, which has become a big part of so many consumer product categories and Symons expects the same to happen in hair care. As a result, more companies are expected to cater to the specific needs of hair covered by religious headwear.

“Only local players understand these needs,” concludes Symons. “We expect locals to continue disrupting the hair care category.”

But that doesn’t mean multinationals are ready to give up their hold on the top spots in the global shampoo and conditioner markets. For example, Unilever’s new DermaCare Scalp is an anti-dandruff shampoo that features “the perfect blend of powerful skin-focused technology with the mild care of Dove,” according to the company.

The six-item line includes 2in1 and shampoo, Invigorating Mint 2in1 and shampoo, and Dryness & Itch Relief shampoo and conditioner. All contain zinc pyrithione to banish flakes, but they also contain a blend of oils to nourish and protect the scalp.

Next month, Unilever launches Love Beauty and Planet, a planet-friendly hair and skin care brand “built on a commitment to do good through small acts of love,” according to the company. Love Beauty and Planet is the result of Unilever’s commitment to its Unilever Sustainability Plan and incorporates distinct purpose into the entire product lifecycle and beyond: giving careful thought to ingredients, formulas, product packaging, value chain and social partnerships, according to the company.

Neutrogena didn’t add any new shampoos or conditioners to its lineup during the past year, but parent company Johnson & Johnson did acquire Vogue International 18 months ago for $3.3 billion. The deal included the OGX collection of shampoos, conditioners and hair treatments, as well as Proganix and Maui Moisture hair care products, and FX hair styling products.

In the third quarter of 2017, sales of OGX helped offset a decline in baby care products at J&J. With shampoo and conditioner formulas such as Biotin & Collagen, Brazilian Keratin Therapy and Bamboo Fiber-Full, OGX was one of the first brands to make hair strengthening a key marketing message. It’s certainly paying off for the brand and for J&J, as OGX has become the leading shampoo and conditioner brand in the US mass market.

Consumers are getting the message when it comes to ingredients that are good for their hair, said Seven Haircare flagship educator Travis Clay.

“Consumers are savvy about ‘bad’ ingredients and are searching for the most nurturing products for their hair. They expect shampoos to lather well and get hair squeaky clean, hydrate and repair while conditioners must proteinize, add moisture, and repair damage too,” he said. “Products that work, smell great, and cover all of these bases are very few and far between. I know we’ve found a game changer with our Kente Bond collection.”

The Kente Bond shampoo, conditioner and reparative spray promise to deliver sustained benefits to damaged hair. The shampoo contains guar, pro vitamin B5 and green tea to intensely hydrate and soften dry damaged hair. The conditioner contains B5, amino acids and lotus to seal split ends and aid reconstruction of broken disulphide bonds, infuse moisture into hair’s cortex and create volume. Finally, the spray is said to target points of damage on the cuticle to protect hair from future harm, add shine and reduce blow dry time.

“The interest for products that do more was inspired by consumers getting older and having drier, more fragile hair. But the real truth is that they wish they had stayed ahead of it before this happened,” explained Clay. “That’s why younger generations are so careful with what they use. They are a more informed group with all the internet information and know they must stay ahead of the game to prevent their hair from ever becoming fragile or dry.”

To help maintain hair, Clay avoids harsh sulfates like SLS and SLES as well as heavy fragrances as they can sometimes trigger allergies.

“Things I definitely look for in products are coconut oil, aloe and amino acids. Seven hair care uses superoxide dismutase, which has anti-aging benefits to the scalp and actually helps to prevent premature graying—an obvious concern for most of my clients.”

Clay called sweet almond extract in the new Bond system a “smart ingredient,” as it is magnetically attracted to points of damage on the hair shaft, giving the formula “unparalleled healing properties.”

Babies’ hair may not need healing, but formulas have to be gentle. According to a new study by ReportsnReports, the global baby hair care products market post a CAGR of 6.20% from 2017 to 2021, driven in part by BRIC demand. The study ’s authors note that babies require special, but simple, hair care. As the scalp of infants is fragile and the hair follicles are in the developing stage, they require gentle hair care.

And there it is; whether you’re a middle-aged balding man showing too much scalp, or a newborn babe with cradle cap, good-for-your-skin hair care is the new normal in the multibillion dollar shampoo and conditioner market.
 
This article first appeared on happi

(from Dr Axe - Food is Medicine)
 
Have you ever wondered, “what is a hair mask and do I need a hair mask?” First, let’s be clear that it isn’t something you wear on your head. But it is something you put on your hair, and it can help you have the locks you’ve longed for. A hair mask is an easy and simple way to improve shine and manageability while providing nourishment to the cuticle, and it can be done right at home.

But who needs a hair mask? Well, it’s great for just about anyone, but can definitely offer hair health benefits for anyone who spends a lot of time in the sun, pool or adds color or other chemical products to their hair.
 
How to Make a DIY Hair Mask for Dry or Curly Hair

1 application (double the recipe if you have very long hair)
Total Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons coconut oil
      (optional: 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon coconut oil)
½ ripe avocado
2 eggs
1 tablespoon raw honey
5–10 drops rosemary essential oil
5–10 drops lavender essential oil

​Directions:

• Place coconut oil and avocado in the blender. (For curly hair, you may want to try the olive oil per the ingredients list above.)
• If you are using the whisk method, you will need to soften the coconut oil first by slightly heating it.
• Add the eggs and honey and blend.
• Add the rosemary and lavender oils and blend.
• To apply, dampen your hair, then apply the mask evenly throughout, making sure to cover all of the hair, especially the ends.
• Once you have applied it, cover the hair with a shower cap or towels so that you do not get it on your clothes. (If you have long hair, tie it up first, then cover it.)
• Allow the mask sit for 45 minutes to an hour.
• Wash out the mask with all-natural shampoo and conditioner.
• For best results, try applying this mask once a week.

Precautions
Most have no problem using any of these ingredients; however, if you notice any irritation, stop using immediately. One or more ingredients could cause an allergic reaction. Also, be careful avoid getting the mixture in your eyes. Make sure your essential oils are 100 percent certified organic for best results. 
 
This article first appeared on Dr. Axe - Food is Medicine

When it comes to creating an ombre effect, there are many factors to consider. What colors you want, how smooth you want your transition to look, and the color of the original hair all come into play. Fear not! Here’s a list of dos and don’ts for working with ombre combinations to help you pull off the effect with flying colors (no pun intended)!

Do:

Match your skin tone – this goes for any hair coloring job, but try to avoid picking colors that will completely clash with your skin tone. Brunettes may wish to try melting variations of a rich espresso to a light amber, blondes going buttery blonde to vanilla and redheads trying auburn to copper. This isn’t to say you can’t go off the beaten path in your color choices, just remember that in the end, if your skin tone clashes with any of the colors contained within the ombre, it will have all been for naught!

Keep Hair Moisturized – Any time your hair goes through a color process it needs to be maintained afterwards. Though an ombre uses far less coloring than an all-over job (and even less if you use extensions!), the hair still needs all the help it can get when it comes to maintaining its moisture, sheen, and natural ability to repair itself when you leaves the salon.  Be sure to buy a good moisturizing conditioner for aftercare and understand the benefits of regular upkeep.

Ensure Hair is Cut and Styled Beforehand – If you’re creating an ombre with extensions, it’s likely your stylist will cut and blend them in afterwards. Still, since the hair’s specific starting length will actually affect the placement of the colors and ombres during the process, it’s best to make sure that before you get an ombre effect, the hair is cut and styled to the appropriate length beforehand.

Enlist the help of a professional – When all else fails, call a professional. Ombres are a popular hairstyle and one that has created a robust knowledge base of stylists across the internet. Accidents can still happen, though! A stylist will know the best course of action for your specific hair type, and can help point you in the direction of your best option. Don’t attempt to give yourself an ombre if you’re not a professional.

Don’t:

Change colors too abruptly – When creating an ombre, always strive to create a shift from lighter shades of the same hue, rather than shifting from a dark hue to a light color abruptly. Allow the color change to come gradually and subtly because a harsh line of demarcation from one color to the next is hardly flattering and will clash heavily.

Go for a Drastic Color Combination – Look, we’re never going to tell you not to experiment with colors! All we’re saying is that an ombre is tough to pull off in itself. If you’re not explicitly trying to pull off a brightly colored fashion ombre, opt for a subtle, natural looking, two (maybe three)-tone color combination. Throwing too many in the mix will overpower the ombre effect and might ruin the effect anyway.

Alter your natural base color – Always use the base color as your jumping off point when choosing other colors. This will ensure that your new tones will highlight the natural color you already have in your hair.  Do not take a darker shade and attempt to create custom ombre color at the bottom of the extensions.

Remember, you want your ombre to showcase a smooth color transition and to highlight tones already present in your hair.  And if you get stuck, you can ALWAYS enlist the eye (or appointment book!) of a trusted salon professional.


This article first appeared on Modern Salon