WHAT IS BALAYAGE?
Balayage is the most exquisite highlighting color technique to storm the coloring industry in decades, however, the first notable celebrity to have the sun-kissed treatment was Audrey Hepburn in 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The technique tasks the colorist with taking a small section of hair and sweeping the color towards the top. Then, they use a paddle to apply more color toward the bottom for a balanced, lightened look. Colorists and clients alike fall in love with the natural, sun-kissed results from this handcrafted technique. Trained Balayage color placement produces a natural and organic style, similar to the effortlessly random color you’d receive after a summer at the beach.

Balayage was truly revolutionary, created at a time when the industry standard was a frosting cap. The ‘80s brought a wave of foil highlights, so it wasn’t until the ‘90s that balayage made its first inroads in the U.S., mainly among celebrity-early adopters.

Today, balayage is offered in many salons, unfortunately not all results are consistent (it’s not as easy as it looks!). A Balayage colorist must be well-trained and have a keen sense of the hair’s texture and movement. After all, it’s just the craftsmanship of the colorist and the balayage brush. The most natural-looking results are usually those that look the most random, which calls for a very specific placement strategy which is addressed in depth theory portion of our balayage classes.

WHY BALAYAGE?
The balayage technique can be used to achieve so many different effects from soft, sun-kissed, natural highlights to a strong and punky look. Not only does it look effortless but its low-maintenance upkeep attracts many to the salon begging for the gilded results. Balayage color is painted in soft brush strokes across the surface of the hair, leaving you with natural-looking swipes of color that flow from thick to thin and play off the hair’s natural movement. Even better, balayage won’t leave you with any signs of demarcation, creating a softer and more manageable grow-out. However, if a balayage isn’t done correctly you can end up with excessive overlapping that can cause damage.

The balayage technique is quickly replacing its metallic predecessor- foils. Foils can often result in a contrived, neat row of uniform highlights rather than the naturally placed balayage treatment. When a section of hair is colored using a foil, the entire section is saturated with color resulting in dense, unnatural stripes of color. During our advanced class we show you how to combine the best of both of these techniques to brighten expression areas by adding stronger, sweeping pieces of light framing the face, in order to give your client’s face a painless lift.

It’s important to note that balayage is absolutely not just for blondes. Brunettes, redheads, even those with black hair can benefit from a dose of hair painting. The results are generally more subtle, but they add the multifaceted dimension that so many crave.

This article first appeared on The Business of Balayage

We know the basic salon etiquette—be on time, leave a 20 percent tip, don’t take phone calls, etc.—but what do stylists really wish we did during our visit? We asked a handful from different salons to share their biggest pet peeves so we can all be the best client—with the best hair.

By Chelsea Traber Burns

1  Come Clean
 “I can’t tell you how many clients come in with hair that hasn’t been washed in a week because they’ve been waiting on me to do it,” says Katelyn Bode, a colorist at Diva Salon in Oklahoma City. “If you don't come in with perfectly fresh, clean hair, it’s okay, but having a ton of product build-up on your strands can cause your color to go on unevenly.” Raisa Cabrera, a master colorist at Mizu salon in New York City, points out that you shouldn’t scrub your scalp before a color service because “it can make your skin more sensitive to the dye.” A good rule of thumb: “If you’re grossed out by how dirty your hair is, chances are, I am too,” says Bode. Gently shampoo the night before your appointment to make nice with your stylist and get the most out of your color.

2  Be Patient
“When undergoing a major color change, have realistic expectations of what can be achieved in a single appointment,” says Sheenon Olson, a celebrity hairstylist and creative director of ATMA salon in Miami. “Don’t expect to go from black to platinum blonde in one day,” he says. “Do it gradually to maintain the integrity of your hair—I always recommend asking the stylist what is realistic to achieve in one day,” he says. If you realize the process is going to take longer than the time you allotted, reschedule your appointment when you have the time.

3  Be Honest
“It’s critical that you tell us what your hair’s history is, whether it was a gloss, toner, Brazilian blow out, box color, etc., it can make a difference on how we go about treating it,” says Miguel Angarita, a master colorist at Mizu salon in New York City. He also recommends chatting with your stylist about budget and upkeep to ensure you’re not getting yourself in too deep. Certain colors and cuts require more trips to the salon so if your goal is to be low-maintenance, ask your stylist for something that will still look great as it grows out.

4  Keep an Open Mind
“It’s always good to come to your appointment with an idea, but be open to expert advice as well,” says Carlina Ortega, senior colorist at Rita Hazan Salon in New York City. “What you have in mind may not be the best choice for your skin tone, face shape, eye color, or other features, so be flexible and talk with your stylist to ensure you get the best cut or color specifically for you.”

5  Bring Visuals
“Pictures are the easiest way to communicate to your stylist what you like and don’t like,” says Cristina B, a stylist at Rita Hazan Salon in New York City. She recommends bringing in several examples from different angles and in different lighting to get your point across. Be sure to get very specific on details as well—getting a trim and getting rid of dead ends can be two very different lengths.

6  Choose Your Appointment Time Wisely
“Be wary of that last appointment on a Saturday,” warns Francesca D’Ascanio, master colorist at Mizu salon in New York City. “If you are a new client, want a major change, or need a lot of work done to your hair, consider booking appointments earlier in the day or in the middle of the week,” she says. “They’re easier to get and your stylist will have more time and energy to devote to you.” Not sure what you need or how long it will take? Call your stylist ahead of time or go in for a consultation beforehand so you can explain what you’re thinking and they can be sure to block out the right amount of time.

7  Take Better Care of Your Color
“Using good quality color-safe products really does matter,” says Bode. “I feel like clients sometimes think I’m just trying to make more money by having them buy the products I sell, but they’re going to make your color last longer and, in turn, allow you to go longer between appointments,” she says. Products that aren’t specially formulated for color-treated hair, can strip the color out of your strands, leaving it dull and dingy way sooner than you hoped. “You’re a walking billboard for my work so I want it looking the best it can,” adds Bode.

This article first appeared on RealSimple.com