Grey hair – you either love it or hate it, show it off or hide it away. According to research, different ethnic groups will generally go grey at different times. Caucasians tend to start from the mid-30s, while ethnic hair tends to go grey only after 50. Contrary to popular belief, stress has not been shown to be linked to hair going prematurely grey, but genes can play a large role. Your children are more likely to go prematurely grey if you or your partner did.
 
Reasons for going prematurely grey:

• Vitamin B12, zinc and copper are needed to nourish your hair and to help in the metabolic processes involved in giving your hair its natural color. If you are deficient in vitamin C and E, you are more likely to go prematurely grey.
• Smoking results in the development of free radicals in your body, which in turn causes oxidative stress in the body. This can lead to a decrease in the pigmentation capacity of melanin, resulting in grey hair.
• Junk and processed foods accelerate aging, as these increase the oxidative stress and AGEs (advanced glycation endproducts), which accelerate aging and the loss of hair colour.

“Hair doesn’t turn white overnight,” says ethnic hair expert from Tanaz Hair Body and Nails, Brian Warfield. “The pigment can stop being produced while the strand is still growing, so you will find that a strand of hair can be half the original color and half white. My experience is that the strands that turn white become very smooth and resistant to color and chemicals. It’s like the cuticle is no longer there; chemicals don’t penetrate the way they used to, and the texture becomes wiry. ”Co-owner of Tanaz Hair Body and Nails, and hair specialist, Shelene Shaer, explains that all hair is made up of protein and keratin, with cuticles that overlap the hair. “Hair growth cycles can be anywhere from two to seven years, growing around 1cm a month.

As we age, the hair follicles become thinner, and some close up, so we have less hair. ”She adds that there are many amazing new products on the market that can slow this process down, although they tend to need continual use.
 
Color or grey

The good news is that grey hair has become a big trend, and many celebrities are sporting grey or silver hair – including those who don’t have any natural grey of their own! However, says Warfield, if you don’t like your white hair, you can opt for color. Make sure the color you use states that it will cover grey completely, otherwise the white hairs will turn out lighter than the strands that are not white. “If you go to a professional stylist, they must know that in order to cover white hair, they need to mix a base shade into their formula. For example, red shades on their own generally don’t cover white hair completely, and can turn pink. But if you mix a base shade of brown at the level you are targeting, then it will give the red something to hold onto and you will get better coverage with your color. Shaer suggests a number of ways to color grey hair.

“One is blanket color; this is when the color is solid and you will only get to see your regrowth. Inoa Loréal launched a color about four years ago that is a translucent – in other words, it colors the hair but it has a slight babylight effect, so the hair looks more natural. The grey gets about 80% colored and I love this. Another option is to add babylights of your natural color into your hair, and this way you maintain some grey, but it looks less. If you are struggling with the upkeep, consider keeping out a grey streak in front, to disguise the grey. ”With ethnic hair, Warfield recommends that if you relax your hair and your white hair goes yellow, use a silver shampoo after the relaxer to neutralize the yellow. “The more white hair you have, the more you need to moisturize it, as this will help to keep it under control. Use heat when doing your moisturizing treatment, to aid penetration of the product. The higher the percentage of white hair on your head, the shorter your cut should be. It helps to do a very stylish short cut, as this will take attention away from the white hair.
 
How to manage your hair:

According to Warfield, white hair needs more heat when it comes to styling, in order to get it straight. “Chemicals will still work (ie relaxers), but they may take longer and can give the hair a yellowish tinge. Sometimes, and this depends on the individual, going natural is an option that could be considered, especially if the texture of the white hair is very coarse and resistant. I’ve found that it’s very difficult to make your hair do something it doesn’t want to.”

With grey hair in general, colour takes longer, and stronger chemicals are needed to penetrate it, notes Shaer. “You will need to relearn how to manage your hair. It requires more work and styling, and the cut becomes so important, as styled hair is much easier to manage.” Colouring your hair generally softens the grey, she says. Hair oils and anti-frizz products will also help.
 
Why doesn’t my hair work for me anymore?

“Grey hair is like having a stranger move in; the way you style, cut and blow becomes so different. Shampoos with vitamins and lustre are important,” says Shaer.“Mind you, not all textures react the same way. Some are easier to work with than others, so not everyone will experience the same levels of frustration,” Warfield adds. Should you be battling with the changes in your hair, ask your stylist to teach you how to manage your “new” hair. You may find that you need to spend more time blowdrying; your cut and style will go a long way towards helping you to look and feel good. Contemplating doing box color? Click here to find out whether or not you should.
 

This first appeared on Longevity
​

Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in the U.S. if all types are combined. Melanoma specifically is among the top 10 cancers in both men and women, totaling more than 87,000 cases this year.

The best way to catch melanoma early is to have any new moles or patches of skin discoloration checked out—but only if you know it’s there in the first place. Half of melanomas go unnoticed by the person who has it, often when abnormality is on the scalp or neck. You can’t have a dermatologist examine the strange new mole on the base of your neck or behind your ear if you don’t even know it exists. And even if you’re looking, you usually can’t see enough of the back of your head and neck to notice anything unusual.

But your hairdresser can — as long as they know what they’re looking for. And it only seems to take 5 minutes of watching a video for hair dressers to become significantly more confident and knowledgeable about finding potentially cancerous skin lesions, according to a new study published in JAMA Dermatology.

“Hairdressers have the ability to monitor a large extent of the general public’s scalp and neck, highlighting their usefulness for the detection of scalp and neck melanomas via population-based screening and dermatologic referral,” wrote Neda R. Black, MD, from the University of Colorado Anschutz Medical Campus in Aurora, and her coauthors.

“Findings from this study suggest that a brief educational video can be beneficial for educating hairdressers about melanoma risk and the criteria for melanoma detection while also building on self-efficacy skills in skin lesion detection that might carry over to improved screening of those individuals at risk for melanoma,” they wrote.

This same group of researchers had previously surveyed more than 100 hair dressers from 45 hair salons to find out what they already knew about melanoma, especially regarding what to look for. The acronym ABCDE is a helpful way to remember key features of a suspicious lesion on the skin: Asymmetrical, Borders are irregular, more than one Color, a Diameter greater than 6mm and Elevated (raised bump).

“Results uncovered room for improvement in knowledge regarding signs and symptoms of melanoma,” the authors wrote, but they also learned in other research that most hair dressers want to learn more about detecting melanoma. So the researchers tested how well a 5-minute informational video might improve hair dressers’ knowledge and self-confidence in identifying suspicious skin lesions.

The authors emailed out the study link with the video to 20 Los Angeles County beauty schools and 100 participants watched the video and filled out questionnaires beforehand and afterward.

Comparison of the pre-test and post-test revealed improved knowledge on all the questions about melanoma knowledge, the authors reported. Before viewing the video, 59% of the hair dressers accurately identified suspicious lesions using the ABCDE criteria, compared to 71% of hair dressers after watching the training video.

Only one in five hair dressers (19%) said they felt “very confident” about identifying a possibly cancerous skin abnormality before watching the video, but after seeing the video, the percentage of hair dressers feeling very confident doubled to 41%.

Of course, 100 hair dressers isn’t a very large group to test a training intervention, and all of the participants volunteered for the study. These results, therefore, don’t necessarily mean that showing the video to all beauty school students is going to double detection of melanoma. In fact, it’s always possible that it could lead to false alarms and over-diagnosis, at least until researchers do more work to learn how accurately large numbers of hair dressers actually detect possible melanomas.

Another caution in this study is that 79% of the participants said they had previously gotten some training on skin cancer, pointing to what researchers need to learn from future studies.

“It will be important to know if our educational video functioned to reinforce existing knowledge or to provide new knowledge about melanoma detection, or both,” the authors wrote. They also need to find out whether hair dressers’ knowledge and skills remain strong over longer periods of time, and they need to compare knowledge improvements among hair dressers who watch the video to a different group the doesn’t view it.

But the good news is that this study lays the foundation for what might become an additional set of eyes keeping a lookout for an extremely common cancer.

“Based on our initial testing of an educational video intervention, training hairdressers in melanoma screening and referral seems to be a promising avenue for future research,” the authors concluded.
 
This article first appeared on Forbes

The term ‘pH level’ is thrown around a lot in today’s society. We hear about the pH levels of household cleaners, the pH level of a fish tank, the pH level of baking soda…. But what about your hair? Did you know that your hair has a natural pH level, as well? Did you also know that this pH level is affected by the hair care products you use everyday? I sure didn’t!

The Importance of the pH Level
As many people will know, the pH level tells you how acidic or basic something is. For example, battery acid has a pH level of 1 and is VERY acidic. Bleach, on the other hand, has a pH level of 13 and is VERY Basic. A pH level of 7 is Neutral and includes things like blood and water. Your hair and skin are covered with a very thin fluid mixture of oil, salt and water called the mantle, which is naturally slightly acidic. The typical pH balance of hair is around 4.5-5.0.

So, what does this mean in regards to hair care products? The closer the pH level of your shampoo/conditioner/styling product is to the natural pH level of your hair, the more healthy and beneficial it is to your hair. Using a product that causes the pH level of your hair to drop can make it very basic can cause your hair to look dry, frizzy and become very brittle and easy to break. This is why using cleansers, such as baking soda (pH of 9) or even just water alone (pH of 7), can be very damaging to your hair with repeated washes.

What is the solution?
A common solution for balancing out the pH of baking soda is coupling it with apple cider vinegar, a natural base. However, often times these ingredients don’t perfectly balance each other or are unevenly mixed, resulting in some hair being treated with overly basic materials, while other hair being treated with acidic materials. You can read more about our verdict on the ‘No Poo’ method in this recent article.

Instead, we recommend choosing hair care products that match the natural pH level of your hair.  Balanced shampoos also protect your hair’s natural oils, known as sebum, rather than stripping it away, as is often the case with synthetic products.

Choosing the right hair care products that match your hair’s natural pH ensures the continued health of your hair’s mantle and gives your strands a healthy environment to grow healthy, strong and beautiful!
 
This article first appeared on Morrocco Method
 
Click here to learn more on How to Balance pH in Hair Naturally

And if you really want to get scientific click here for a very informative article:
The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality?

That moisturizer your friends swear by left your face red and scaly. The cleaner you've been using for years to make your bathroom sparkle made your hands itch and burn.
 
For some people, the chemicals in shampoos, cosmetics, and detergents can trigger allergic skin reactions.
 
Causes
These reactions -- what your doctor calls allergic contact dermatitis -- happen when your immune system overreacts to chemicals that are normally harmless. They can be in products you're exposed to over and over, like cleaners, colognes, hair dyes, and personal care items.
 
Even if you've used them before, you can still have a reaction.
 
Cosmetics and personal care products have a lot of potential allergens, things you could be allergic to:

• Fragrances in soaps, colognes, deodorants, body creams, cosmetics, detergents, and tissues
• Preservatives and antibacterials, added to many liquids to keep them from spoiling
• Substances added to thicken, color, or lubricate a product
• Chemicals in permanent hair dyes and other hair products
• Formaldehyde resin, an ingredient in many nail care products
• Sunscreens, often found in cosmetic moisturizers, lip balms, and foundations

 
Symptoms
Your skin is one of the first places where the warning signs can show up. They often appear 24 to 48 hours later, but can start as late as a week after you come in contact with the irritating chemical.
 
Each person may have different chemical allergy symptoms. Some of the most common are:

• Red skin
• Scaly patches
• Blisters that ooze
• Burning or itching, which may be intense
• Swelling of the eyes, face, and genital area
• Hives
• Sun sensitivity
• Darkened, "leathery," and cracked skin

 
The symptoms tend to be worst where you touched the thing you're allergic to. If you get the allergen on your finger and then touch another part of your body, like your face or neck, you can set off an allergic reaction there.
 
Other conditions can cause similar symptoms, so see your doctor to find out what the problem is.
 
Diagnosis
Often your doctor may be able to diagnose your allergy by doing a physical exam and asking you about your symptoms.
 
Sometimes, he may suggest you see an allergist for a skin test, also called a patch test. The allergist places small samples of chemicals on your back and checks to see if you get a rash.
Keep track of your symptoms. It will help your doctor make a diagnosis. Note details such as:

• What you were doing in the 24 to 48 hours before your outbreak
• Any products you were using before the reaction
• How much of the product you were using and how often
• Where it touched your skin (even places with no symptoms)
• Symptoms you have or had
• Any previous skin reactions

 
Treatment
You'll want to identify and avoid the chemical that seems to cause your allergic reaction.
 
This article first appeared on WebMD

By Dr. Leslie Baumann
 
Most of us use some sort of hair product on a daily basis, and allergies to many of their ingredients are common.
 
While hair color is the biggest offender, other products like hairspray, conditioners and extension glue can cause redness, itching and even swelling in those with allergies. The problem is, many women and men experience these symptoms without knowing the exact cause.
 
As a dermatologist, I can effectively treat the allergy, but it often takes a while to determine the source of the reaction. Here are the most common hair products that cause reactions—and a few allergy-free alternatives.
 
Hair color
Whether you use hair color to cover grays or for highlights, if you’re allergic, you know it.
 
The main ingredient responsible for hair color allergies is paraphenyldiamine (PPD) and it can cause redness and swelling wherever the product touches the skin. Another offender is toluene (which can also be found in nail polish but most major brands have omitted it from their formulas).
 
I see many patients with hair color allergies, but there are alternatives that provide the benefits without the side effects. Vegetable dyes like henna cover grays on darker hair, and if you prefer highlights, the trendy ombre look is achieved by placing color just at the ends so it doesn’t come in contact with the skin.
 
Hairspray
In the case of hairspray, fragrance is most often responsible for allergic reactions like redness, irritation and swelling. Other ingredients that cause reactions include propylene glycol (which is often used to “seal in” moisture) and acrylates, which are used to form a film on the hair.
 
Though I wish I could recommend a hairspray that’s unlikely to cause a reaction, a better approach is to make a note when you have a problem and consider what products you used in the previous 24 hours. Then read those labels and see if you can identify the culprit. If you still can’t figure it out, see your dermatologist for patch testing so you can avoid the offender in the future.
 
Perms and straighteners
Treatments such as keratin straightening have been getting bad press due to side effects from the professionals who spend a lot of time around the fumes, but these treatments can cause allergic reactions when they come in contact with the skin — even if it’s only every few moments.
 
The main problematic ingredient in these treatments is formaldehyde, and it leads to itching, skin cracking and irritation in those with sensitivity. The problem with a formaldehyde allergy is that this ingredient can be listed many ways on product labels, so it’s best to consult your dermatologist if you react to these types of hair treatments.
 
Hair conditioner
Something as simple (and common) as conditioner can have side effects on the skin.
 
A very common ingredient like isopropyl myristate can aggravate acne, and it often comes in contact with the face, back and chest when used in the shower. If you have persistent body acne, check your labels, and be sure to wash your back and chest with a salicylic acid cleanser after washing and conditioning your hair.
 
Hair extension glue
Think about it … anything that’s designed to attach hair to your head (and withstand washing and tugging) might have some detrimental side effects on the skin. The main ingredient in hair glue that causes reactions is ethyl cyanoacrylate, so if you experience adverse effects, consider another hair extension technique.
 
Other options include thermal bonding and sewn-in extensions, and these eliminate the possibility of skin reaction.
 
When a patient is unable to isolate the ingredient causing their skin allergies, I often ask them to bring in their skincare and hair care products so I can take a look at what they’re using. In most cases, reading the labels and taking a thorough history is enough to pinpoint the source of the reaction and eliminate the product from one’s beauty routine.

This article first appeared in the Miami Herald