What is a ‘Mallen streak’?

A white/grey streak is known as a Mallen streak and it is an example of poliosis – which in short means an absence of melanin in the hair which results in a white streak.

Throughout history, the streak has become synonymous with evil – think X Men’s Rogue or the Bride of Frankenstein. The term ‘Mallen streak’ came into common parlance in the 1970s.

Originally coming from the Latin word ‘malignus’ (meaning ‘bad kind’) it was first used by novelist Catherine Cookson in her ‘Mallen’ trilogy. The novels follow the lives of a doomed family who all share the hereditary white/grey streak in their hair. Cookson writes of the pejorative associations of the streak, “nothing good ever came of a Mallen.” But times are a-changing…

Embracing ‘Mallen streaks’

Hopefully attitudes are changing as figures in the public eye now wear their streaks with pride.

“Personally, I would always encourage a client to embrace a streak and work with it as a feature,” says Paul Dennison, colour director at Ken Picton. “It’s incredibly unique and striking and if you cover it, you’ll constantly be fighting the regrowth and trying to cover it up.”

Other notable celebrities with a Mallen streak include politician Ed Milliband, TV presenter George Lamb and author Caitlin Moran.

Paul is a fan of the look and has some tips on how to work with a Mallen streak as a colourist. “It’s a very strong look and because white hair is so clean, it can look really dramatic when sitting next to the darker, natural hair,” he says.
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“I’d aim to enhance that by covering any other greys, so that the front section becomes even more apparent and really stands out. If a client has covered their white hair previously and wants to grow it out and embrace it, I suggest you pre-lighten the ends as much as possible, then tone to the natural colour with a nice ash or clean blonde.”

A grey/white streak has also featured in Tony Haresign’s ‘Mallen Madness’ collection (image to the left). The owner of Esquire Barbershop says of the inspiration behind his collection: “My influences for this collection included 1970s sports presenters, Batman, Catherine Cookson and Film Noir. I was keen to include a Mallen streak in the collection to highlight how striking the grey/white streak can look.”





​Collection image credit:
Hair: Tony Haresign
Assistants: Kayti Dickinson, Blayre Turnbull, Daina Renton
Make-up and styling: Michelle Watson
Suits: Chester Barrie and Richard James, Savile Row
Photography: Matt Marcus

Now I’ve said before and I’ll say it again, I’m not a big follower of trends. I am, however, a big believer in doing what you want, wearing what you want, and experimenting as you like.

With the closure of barbershops in 2020 (and into 2021), we were forced to decide, “do I grow it, or do I shave it?” As such, guys like us were given the opportunity to experiment with style. The hairstyles that we are seeing this year are the development of these lockdown looks.

1. Short & Textured
I know from the video that I did about the death of the Skin Fade, there were so many comments saying, “what do you know… no, never… never giving up.”  That is fine. Go wild. But with this ‘short & textured‘ hair trend, it’s less about solid structure and it’s more about movement.

You can still go with your favourite fade, but it doesn’t need to be so severe. Try working with slightly longer length on the sides, or move the fade placement lower, to allow for a more tapered (and classic) look.

With the hair on top, it’s all about adding shape and definition – for a choppy, textured, messy finish. This will then allow you to style with matte finish products for a really gritty finish.

2. New Longer Length‘New Longer Length’ is for anyone, like me, that experimented with longer hair in 2020.

Now, these long hairstyles are going to be slightly more reminiscent of the nineties – think grunge with a really live-in finish. Again, it’s all about movement and texture. 
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This hairstyle trend is all about just letting go and going with it. Enjoy it! 

3. Natural Curls
One of the biggest video trends that I’ve seen on YouTube is ‘curly hair to straight hair’. Loads of guys seem to be searching for it. But not in 2021!

This year is about embracing those natural curls, from the Afro high-top skin fades (really short on the sides with a high, square top) to accentuating the curls on top with a shorter fade. There are loads of options. 
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This trend really is about that juxtaposition of the short and the long. So keeping it really, really short on the sides and then having all those curls and the waves on top. 

4. The Mullet
Now, if during lockdown you completed Netflix, then I’m sure you watched Tiger King. Joe Exotic really did bring back that mullet… but maybe for all the wrong reasons.
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The mullet did, however, start to work its way back into the mainstream. Check out this mullet look on Troye Sivan.

5. Bald to Buzz
For a lot of men struggling with hair loss and/or receding hairlines, a hairstyle’s primary purpose is to disguise bald patches. But 2020 saw men embracing the bald and going for the buzz cut. 
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2021 is less about the extreme buzz cut but more about experimenting with different types of buzz hairstyles. Even just the slightest change in length on the sides versus the top can make such a difference. 

Hockey and hair go together like peanut butter and jelly or a burger and fries with a milkshake on the side. They're a long-storied winning combination: from mullets to mustaches to playoff beards, the two are intertwined through the annals of sports history. 

This year is a special one and may go down in the record book with the best hockey-hair game ever. Why? Well, it's 2021 and we've been in a pandemic for almost a year. Many cities have shut down hair salons or people may not be clamoring for a new do right now.

As a result, the flow this year is off the charts and the beards are already in grizzled, deep playoff-run mode. This list is going to take a look at the styles on the ice as opposed to the nicely-quaffed headshots (looking at you Rasmus Ristolainen). 
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Here's a look at some of the early candidates for best hockey hair in 2021.

The word Barber, is derived from the latin word “barba” meaning beard.  It is a person whose occupation is to cut hair, perform shaves and trim beards.

Hairstylist or Cosmetologist, is derived from the Greek word “kosmetikos” meaning “skilled in adornment”, and is the study of the application of beauty treatments (haircutting/hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures and electrolysis).

Barbers are also trained to provide facials, color and perm hair. This is quite similar to the services the hairstylist would perform; however, there are two very distinct differences between them.

(1) Shaving – the art of shaving with a straight-razor can only be performed by a licensed barber.

(2) Manicure/Pedicure – these two services can only be performed by a licensed cosmetologist or nail technician, not a barber.
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There are many men that seek out hairstylists for that “new” more trendy hairstyle, and in many cases the people they choose are perfect for that goal. But, don’t discount your barber just yet! The growing importance from men to look their best, is constantly putting pressure on barbers to expand their skill-sets.  And, that’s pretty exciting for the barbering world!

What is the difference between a Barber and a Hair Stylist?  Does it matter?  Well, when it comes to male grooming, guys have a couple of options.  Aside from swanky shaving boutiques, “watch sports while you get your haircut” salons, and the classic men’s barbershop, the options for a men’s haircut boils down to two options: a Barber or a Hair Stylist.  While knowing the core differences between the two professions can be helpful, we argue that choosing one over the other because of their title isn’t the best way to go.

Making the Right Choice

We’ve put together a thoughtful infographic detailing everything you need to know about Barbers and Hair Stylists – the tools they use, the skills they possess and the education they must attain.  It may surprise you to learn just how much the two professions have in common!  Make sure to read through to the end as we include our recommendation on how to choose the best option for you at the bottom.

How to Choose between a Barber and a Hair Stylist

The main difference between a barber and a hair stylist is the fact that a barber can use a straight edge razor to shave your face.  Now, the education piece is important as well.  While cosmetologists learn a variety of skills during their time at school, Barber’s do spend more time learning about the different cutting and styling techniques on men’s hair.  

With that being said, we argue that your decision between a barber and a stylist should come down to the professional and not the profession.  In our opinion, it doesn’t matter which license they hold – the quality of service, the integrity of the person, the commitment to their craft and their passion for the industry should matter much more.
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Making Your Decision

The next time you are in need of a new stylist or barber here is our recommendation on how to choose between the two.

1. Determine your desired cut/style – the type of style or cut you are after will help you narrow down the pool of potential hair cutters.
2. Research your area’s best salons and barbershops (look at their work on their website or social media, read their online reviews, drop in for a quick consultation, or ask your friends and family for suggestions)
3. Once you’ve chosen your preferred location, communicate with the guest services team.  More than likely they will know the ins and outs of each stylist or barber who works there – what they specialize in, what types of styles they are good at, what they enjoy doing, etc.  The guest services team will be able to place you with a person who can help you achieve the look you are going for.
4. Over-communicate!  Every time you visit a new stylist or barber make sure you tell them exactly what your vision is.  Don’t be afraid to speak up during the appointment if the cut isn’t short enough or the look isn’t turning out as you thought it would.
5. Bring in a photo as an example.  It never hurts to have a visual example of what you are looking for.

All in all, it is important to remember that most stylists these days are well trained and well equipped to handle any type of men’s haircut or style.  On the flip side, most barbers are equally as trained to handle women’s cuts and styles. 

What would men’s magazines have done for the past year or so, I wonder, without the re-emergence of Brad Pitt as the style icon he was back in his 1990s heyday? From the chisel-jawed one’s gilded turn in Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time in Hollywood last year to his more recent Brioni tux-clad series of red carpet appearances, Pitt has proved beyond any doubt that style and sex appeal don’t go anywhere after 50.

One of the key areas in which Pitt excels is with his hair. Though recent years have seen the actor opt for darker hues and shorter cuts, his most recent honeyed slick-back is not only incredibly complimentary to both his bone structure and his skin tone, but it’s also a look that speaks of a certain glamour only Hollywood can truly muster, and it goes as well with a tux as it does with a beaten-up band tee and jeans, as Pitt so deftly proved in OUTH.

Pitt’s red carpet train chasers Ansel Elgort and Timothée Chalamet have also tried the cut out recently, both with equal levels of success. Here, our resident barber Joe Mills explains how to get the look yourself.

The styling guide

1. Who does it suit? This cut suits medium to thick hair, ideally with a slight wave. You need to have a good four to six inches of hair on the top, and it should be left heavy, with a little texture added.

2. How should I have it cut? The back and sides should be a good three inches in length, which will allow it to be swept back. Texture needs to be added here too, so that your hair has some movement and doesn’t look too “Lego-head”. Ask your barber for a longer, classic layered cut with some texture and no hard lines around the back and sides.

3. How do I style it? Ideally, you’ll need to get the hairdryer out for this. Use a texture spray when your hair is freshly shampooed, then blow dry the hair back from your face using a vent brush. When it’s almost dry, apply a styling cream that will give it enough hold but will allow you to still be able to run your fingers through it.

The products you need

1. A lightweight, non-aerosol volumizing spray - spray on damp hair before blow-drying.

2. A light cream pomade for all hair types - apply to damp hair for a wet-look finish, or dry for a more natural, matte style.

3. A Vent Brush - like this one by Denman

4. A Hair Dryer (I have some recommendations for you here)
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