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12/23/2016

Guys: 10 Rules for Growing and Maintaining Long Hair

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WE SPEAK TO MURDOCK LONDON'S MASTER BARBER TO GAIN HIS EXPERT INSIGHTS
 Written by Menswear Style

When it comes to growing long hair, it looks its best with soft natural layers - looking as it would if you started from scratch with a one grade all over and just let it all grow out. When grown this way, long hairstyles adhere to our head shapes and hairlines, best complementing our natural features. For this feature we spoke to Alex Glover, the Master Barber at 
Murdock Londonto gain his expert insights.

1. Mop-top 
The best method to grow your hair out whilst maintaining a natural look is with a round layer. As soon as you decide you want a longer hairstyle, begin by asking your barber for this with a crop at 3-6 cm, leaving more of a mop-top finish (see old images of the Beatles as they morphed from clean cut boys into hippies for reference).

2. Chewed finish 
Ok, so hair fringes have the potential to look great on men but I believe they’re best worn with a bold, blunt and chewed finish. 

3. Leave it lone  
Often along the growing journey men will fall for short back and sides cuts in order to achieve some degree of a style whilst still trying to grow their hair out to a desired longer length. These temporary looks tend to graduate in at the edges or have harsh corners, which means that the layers do not grow out as befitting as they would naturally. Avoid trying to craft a style mid-way through the growth phase, as you will often find yourself left with unwanted corners of weight that tend to form wing-like shapes or a dreaded big mushroom effect.

4. Tidy-up 
if required Whilst avoiding visiting your barber for a drastic mid-growth re-style, broken ends (the man's version of split ends if you like) can lead to splitting all the way down to the root if not treated correctly, so do consider a subtle tidy-up trim to help keep your hair as healthy as possible as it grows.  

5. Shampoo & Conditioner 
The longer your hair gets, the more susceptible it is to look limp and lifeless, so a good quality Shampoo and Conditioner should not be avoided. Always use both (if your hair is dirty) or stick to just conditioner (if you washed it yesterday). For longer curls, invest in a deeply moisturizing product or specific curl activating hair care.

6. Layering 
If your hair is particularly thick, a heavier layer is required - this layer is cut nearest to vertical - enabling the layers to stack on top of each other over a short area. This prevents strange looking, unmanageable build-ups of weight. These heavy layers then need texturizing deeply to soften out the baseline of the haircut (where the layers end on your shoulders), otherwise it can look a bit feminine from behind. 

7. Sea Salt Spray 
When it comes to styling finer hair, Sea Salt Spray will soon become your favourite go-to product. It helps to make fine hair appear thicker and prevent your style from immediately falling flat once you step out the house. You can trust it to help maintain your shape over the course of the day.

8. Application & Process 
All hair types can however benefit from using Sea Salt Spray to add texture, blow-drying it in to wet hair before styling to give a boost to the body. Alternatively apply to dry hair to better increase volume and create a matte effect. Depending on your style, you may also wish to work the spray in by hand to design your own natural wave and create a textured body 

9. Complimentary Products 
With Sea Salt Spray providing a great foundation for your style, the best finishing products to use on long hair are crème waxes (such as Murdock Hair Play) which help to control frizzing and provide a soft, lightweight texture and a natural shine. They also add further weight which can help to keep your style tucked back. Don’t be afraid to be fairly heavy-handed over the sides and stay looser on the top to create more of a wave effect.

10. Brush it 
Remember to regularly brush or comb your hair to help maintain a voluminous natural shape. At home it's best to use a brush because they work well to smooth out hair cuticles and they don't pull on hair as much as combs. When you're out and about however, a longer haired gent's best friend can be the Kent comb he keeps in his top pocket.
 
(source)

12/18/2016 0 Comments

Barbering Misconception

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There’s a misconceptions about men’s grooming services today, primarily that certain looks and hairstyles can only be performed in barbershops. Not True.  What is true is that the tailored, barber style haircut is a very hot trend right now, and probably will be for a while. One that I’m very happy to see. It’s crisp. It’s clean. It has style.

That said, did you know that I, yes me - a cosmetologist in a hair salon, can give you that same clean, classic, barber style?  You bet I can. You don’t need to go to a barbershop to get that look. Schedule a consultation and appointment with me and I’ll tailor a haircut that you’ll love based on your lifestyle, your needs, and your haircare routine. It’s all hairdressing when it comes down to it.
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12/18/2016 0 Comments

Guys: Seven Ways To Do The Hairstyle Of The Moment

The MR PORTER staff offer themselves up for a short back and sides haircut from session stylist Mr Tyler Johnston
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12/13/2016 0 Comments

An Easy Guide to Hair Clipper Maintenance

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A good quality pair of hair clippers will not only save you a lot of money and time, they will also last you many years if you look after them properly.
 
If your clippers are in frequent use, you really need to ensure they are in good working order.  Some basic care and maintenance every now and again will keep your clippers performing to their best.

Clipper Care and Maintenance 101
Save a lot of time and money by taking care of your clipper. According to Clipper Guy Ivan Zoot for Andis, many clipper problems arise because of insufficient lubrication and not using enough oil between uses. If you don't have a regular clipper maintenance routine, start today:
 
ADJUSTMENT: Pick up your clipper, turn it sideways and check it. The blades should be either parallel with the cutter blade or set slightly back.  If you own a clipper you have to own a screwdriver! Loosen the two screws on the back of the blade, wiggle the blade to adjust it as necessary and tighten the screws. Walk the screws all the way down.
 
GIVE YOUR BLADE A GOOD OLD BRUSH: Most clipper sets come with their own small clipper brush and cleaning kit.  However, these brushes are just too small.  Use an old, hard toothbrush to really get in among the ‘nooks and crannies’.  With the clipper off, brush off the blade.   Brush off any loose or accumulated hairs that are between the blade. Having hair stuck between the blades acts like sand or gravel, which can dull your blade quickly.
 
5 POINT OILING:  This is paramount to the care and maintenance of your clipper blade.  After adjusting and brushing, apply three drops of oil on the teeth, and one drop on each inside corner of the moving blade. Let the clipper run the oil through the blade. Wipe up any oil around the blade. You should NOT SEE any extra oil, because too much oil can attract hair, dust and dirt, which will therefore gunk up the blade.
 
You are ready to cut!
 
HOT BLADE: If your blade gets too hot, spray it with Cool Care Clipper Spray. It instantly drops the temperature of the blade. It’s also a good cleaner, rust inhibitor and a light lubricant (doesn’t take the place of oil) and it’s a broad spectrum disinfectant.
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11/29/2016

THE MOST EFFECTIVE WAY TO GROW LONG HAIR

THE STIGMA OF MEN WITH LONG HAIR BEING FEMININE IS LONG GONE
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Written by Rakelle Maurici
 
Over the past few years men have become increasingly encouraged by barbers and grooming experts to embrace their locks and grow their hair. The stigma of men with long hair being feminine is long gone. Contrary to popular belief, it’s known that a lot of women will agree that longer hair on men increases their sex appeal.  So, whether you’re after a surfer look, a man bun or a lob (that’s a long bob to you and I) here’s how you can go about growing it out effectively.
 
Is Long Hair for You?  
One of the first aspects you need to think about is whether the look will suit you. Just because long hair is becoming a popular hairstyle for men doesn’t mean it will work for every Tom, Dick and Harry out there. This can be for several reasons - ask yourself, does it suit your lifestyle? Can you imagine yourself wearing this look to the office? Could you tie it back for a corporate look? Next, consider your hair type - the smoother the hair the more manageable it will be, especially if it has a slight wave through it. If your hair is coarse or curly, let it fall as it pleases and try not to play around with it too much because the key to long hair is low maintenance; it should look and feel casual.
 
Hair Care  
To be able to grow your hair and keep it healthy at the same time you shouldn’t over wash it. Shampoo damages the follicles while stripping hair of its natural oils which enable it to grow. Secondly, don’t brush the hair when it’s wet, this over stretches the hair, which will make it weaker. When it comes to hair products ensure that every time you wash your hair you are using conditioner to keep it healthy and nourished. Avoid products with high alcohol content because it will dry your hair out. If you’re prone to thinning, then you’ll need to buy a shampoo, which will stimulate the hair and unclog the follicles. Give yourself regular scalp massages to get the hair stimulated at the root.
 
Lastly, you’ll need to persevere because when growing hair out you’ll inevitably go through the dreaded awkward phase. The sides and back grow much quicker so you’ll need to go for regular trims to maintain proportion and tidy up any dead ends. This will stop your hair from looking scruffy and keep it looking healthy. After the first trim, let the hair grow and trim as little or as much is required. However, since you're trying to grow your hair, you'll have to trim less than your hair grows. Let's say you have a half an inch a month growth rate, then cutting half an inch every 3 to 4 months may be logical. Follow our advice and you’ll be sporting a longer hair in no time.

(source)
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