by Stefan Vincent

I get a lot of emails asking how to shave with a safety razor, double edge razor, or single edge razor. There are a few different techniques and tips I will share with you, but it’s not as mysterious and dangerous as it sounds. It’s fairly easy to get started and in time you will probably find that you get a better, closer, more comfortable shave, all the while actually enjoying what used to be a daunting or trivial task.

For this article I am going to skip over all the talk of shaving soaps, shaving brushes, and all the other fun goodies that come along with wetshaving. I’m also not going to go into detail about the different types of razors and blades you could try. That is a whole other post, or could even be a book. Let’s focus on technique and the rest will come naturally.

Every razor is a little different when it comes to loading your blade. So the first step is figuring out how to get the blade into the razor. We will assume you are using a double edge razor like this one:

This is called a three piece razor because it comes apart in 3 pieces. The head, the baseplate and the handle. The razor gets sandwiched between the head and the baseplate(make sure you don’t install your baseplate upside down, a very common mistake) and then the whole thing gets screwed back together. Simple. There are also twist to open designs which are even simpler and there are also 2 piece razors where the baseplate is fixed in place.

So you have your razor blade installed, now what? Before it’s time to lather up and shave, take a moment to map the different directions your hair grows on your face. Everyone is different, and if you’ve ever shaved before you probably are pretty familiar with your face. Now, use your favorite method to lather, whether it is canned foam or a luxury shaving soap or cream, get it on your face.

They key to wetshaving with any safety razor is taut (tight) skin. Don’t be afraid to use your other hand to pull your skin tight in the areas you are shaving. A little PRO TIP here, shaving lather is slippery, if you have an alum block or styptic pencil, rub it on the fingers of your off hand to gain more grip.

Now, with tight skin bring the razor to your face at the shallowest angle and slowly lower the handle until you can hear or feel the hairs cutting. This is the part that can take a little fiddling, and every razor has a different “sweet spot”.  You should be shaving with the grain and we are going to call this “our first pass”. Some people can get a quality shave in one pass. For some people it can take 3 or 4. Your mileage may vary, especially when you’re first starting out.

Once you have removed all of the shaving cream with the grain. Re-lather your face and do your second pass across the grain if you need it. After that, I usually re-lather again and feel with my fingers for any areas that need a touch up, and then shave (with very tight skin) against the grain in those areas only. Depending how sensitive your skin is, you may want to stop after your first pass for the first few shaves, or only shave your cheeks and finish the shave with a cartridge razor if that’s what you’re used to.

Tips and tricks: Problem areas.

The CHIN, the neck, the upper lip, and for you bald guys, the HEAD. I always say the head is all chin. Work in small areas on these problem spots and make sure your skin is as tight as possible. Don’t overdo it or you WILL get razor burn. For the upper lip, go with the grain only until you’ve got some experience and even then be careful if your blade is less than optimally sharp.

Safety Razor Shaving is very rewarding, easy, and fun. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right the first few times. Everything in this life worth knowing needs a little work to be proficient with. Check out our safety razors here and Enjoy your shave.

This article first appeared on The Holy Black

That moisturizer your friends swear by left your face red and scaly. The cleaner you've been using for years to make your bathroom sparkle made your hands itch and burn.
 
For some people, the chemicals in shampoos, cosmetics, and detergents can trigger allergic skin reactions.
 
Causes
These reactions -- what your doctor calls allergic contact dermatitis -- happen when your immune system overreacts to chemicals that are normally harmless. They can be in products you're exposed to over and over, like cleaners, colognes, hair dyes, and personal care items.
 
Even if you've used them before, you can still have a reaction.
 
Cosmetics and personal care products have a lot of potential allergens, things you could be allergic to:

• Fragrances in soaps, colognes, deodorants, body creams, cosmetics, detergents, and tissues
• Preservatives and antibacterials, added to many liquids to keep them from spoiling
• Substances added to thicken, color, or lubricate a product
• Chemicals in permanent hair dyes and other hair products
• Formaldehyde resin, an ingredient in many nail care products
• Sunscreens, often found in cosmetic moisturizers, lip balms, and foundations

 
Symptoms
Your skin is one of the first places where the warning signs can show up. They often appear 24 to 48 hours later, but can start as late as a week after you come in contact with the irritating chemical.
 
Each person may have different chemical allergy symptoms. Some of the most common are:

• Red skin
• Scaly patches
• Blisters that ooze
• Burning or itching, which may be intense
• Swelling of the eyes, face, and genital area
• Hives
• Sun sensitivity
• Darkened, "leathery," and cracked skin

 
The symptoms tend to be worst where you touched the thing you're allergic to. If you get the allergen on your finger and then touch another part of your body, like your face or neck, you can set off an allergic reaction there.
 
Other conditions can cause similar symptoms, so see your doctor to find out what the problem is.
 
Diagnosis
Often your doctor may be able to diagnose your allergy by doing a physical exam and asking you about your symptoms.
 
Sometimes, he may suggest you see an allergist for a skin test, also called a patch test. The allergist places small samples of chemicals on your back and checks to see if you get a rash.
Keep track of your symptoms. It will help your doctor make a diagnosis. Note details such as:

• What you were doing in the 24 to 48 hours before your outbreak
• Any products you were using before the reaction
• How much of the product you were using and how often
• Where it touched your skin (even places with no symptoms)
• Symptoms you have or had
• Any previous skin reactions

 
Treatment
You'll want to identify and avoid the chemical that seems to cause your allergic reaction.
 
This article first appeared on WebMD

By Dr. Leslie Baumann
 
Most of us use some sort of hair product on a daily basis, and allergies to many of their ingredients are common.
 
While hair color is the biggest offender, other products like hairspray, conditioners and extension glue can cause redness, itching and even swelling in those with allergies. The problem is, many women and men experience these symptoms without knowing the exact cause.
 
As a dermatologist, I can effectively treat the allergy, but it often takes a while to determine the source of the reaction. Here are the most common hair products that cause reactions—and a few allergy-free alternatives.
 
Hair color
Whether you use hair color to cover grays or for highlights, if you’re allergic, you know it.
 
The main ingredient responsible for hair color allergies is paraphenyldiamine (PPD) and it can cause redness and swelling wherever the product touches the skin. Another offender is toluene (which can also be found in nail polish but most major brands have omitted it from their formulas).
 
I see many patients with hair color allergies, but there are alternatives that provide the benefits without the side effects. Vegetable dyes like henna cover grays on darker hair, and if you prefer highlights, the trendy ombre look is achieved by placing color just at the ends so it doesn’t come in contact with the skin.
 
Hairspray
In the case of hairspray, fragrance is most often responsible for allergic reactions like redness, irritation and swelling. Other ingredients that cause reactions include propylene glycol (which is often used to “seal in” moisture) and acrylates, which are used to form a film on the hair.
 
Though I wish I could recommend a hairspray that’s unlikely to cause a reaction, a better approach is to make a note when you have a problem and consider what products you used in the previous 24 hours. Then read those labels and see if you can identify the culprit. If you still can’t figure it out, see your dermatologist for patch testing so you can avoid the offender in the future.
 
Perms and straighteners
Treatments such as keratin straightening have been getting bad press due to side effects from the professionals who spend a lot of time around the fumes, but these treatments can cause allergic reactions when they come in contact with the skin — even if it’s only every few moments.
 
The main problematic ingredient in these treatments is formaldehyde, and it leads to itching, skin cracking and irritation in those with sensitivity. The problem with a formaldehyde allergy is that this ingredient can be listed many ways on product labels, so it’s best to consult your dermatologist if you react to these types of hair treatments.
 
Hair conditioner
Something as simple (and common) as conditioner can have side effects on the skin.
 
A very common ingredient like isopropyl myristate can aggravate acne, and it often comes in contact with the face, back and chest when used in the shower. If you have persistent body acne, check your labels, and be sure to wash your back and chest with a salicylic acid cleanser after washing and conditioning your hair.
 
Hair extension glue
Think about it … anything that’s designed to attach hair to your head (and withstand washing and tugging) might have some detrimental side effects on the skin. The main ingredient in hair glue that causes reactions is ethyl cyanoacrylate, so if you experience adverse effects, consider another hair extension technique.
 
Other options include thermal bonding and sewn-in extensions, and these eliminate the possibility of skin reaction.
 
When a patient is unable to isolate the ingredient causing their skin allergies, I often ask them to bring in their skincare and hair care products so I can take a look at what they’re using. In most cases, reading the labels and taking a thorough history is enough to pinpoint the source of the reaction and eliminate the product from one’s beauty routine.

This article first appeared in the Miami Herald

While some style and grooming trends change year on year, some are timeless classics.
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Although it would be impossible to include every tip you’ll need in this 2017 guide, a few tweaks to your personal style and grooming regime can go a long way in taking your look to the next level. From hairstyles and skin care to shoe game and wardrobe essentials, this visual guide will make sure you look good and feel good… or simply groomed to Suave perfection!

The last 30 seconds of the game. The hilarious way he put one over on his best buddy at work. Beer. There are lots of topics that men love to discuss. His hair is usually not one of them. For most guys, the stuff on the top of their heads is SO no big deal. It gets washed in the shower, combed right, cut when absolutely necessary. End of story. Now you adore your guy but his hair? Maybe there’s room for some improvement. Undoubtedly he admires your exquisite taste (after all, why else would he be with you?) so stay alert for the opportunity to weigh in on his hair cut and style. To prepare, here are tips for every type of men’s hair, plus some common male strand situations.

Style Choices
It’s true—the haircut needle moves slowly for guys. It seems once they find a cut they like, they stick with “the usual,” and suddenly several decades have elapsed. Granted, the spectrum for men’s hairstyles is much narrower than for women, but every now and then, whether he’s a classic suit and tie man, or more of the artsy type, an update is in order. Here are some suggestions.

If he’s an edgy guy…

Thin Hair: A Dramatic Fade Hairstyle
The thing about fine hair is that it tends to be unevenly fine. A closely-clipped fade haircut keeps the existing hair evenly distributed. Some length on the top and a strong part make a dramatic statement. A neatly-clipped beard serves as a balancing element for the big picture. Tip: When hair is this short, all brow, nose and ear hair should be impeccably groomed! 

Thick Hair: Over Swept Pompadour
Lucky guy, with hair to spare! It’s the perfect texture for a modern pomp. Rock and roll birthed this men’s cut, and decade after decade, it never goes out of style. It always makes an irresistible “artist/bad boy” statement. The cut should be trim on the sides and in back with enough length on top to lift and mold with pomade. 

Curly Hair: High and Tight
Clipped and faded sides and back, a finely-etched hairline and a squared-off top produce a crisp and masculine effect. Curls can have a softening effect on a guy’s features, so it’s best to keep the shape of the haircut angular.

If he’s a classic guy…

Thick Hair: Carefully Controlled
The good news is thick hair pretty much looks good no matter how it’s cut. But if you and your guy can find a barber or stylist who knows how to prune it a bit, it will look even better. That could mean using shears to thin out the sides and back, and to texturize the top by snipping out random sections. The snipping creates some movement in a solid shape, and can be further defined with styling crème or pomade.

Curly Hair: Perfectly Proportioned
Well-tailored side and back sections with a boyish, eye-grazing fringe place curls in their best light. It’s important to keep the outline nice and square, with a gradual taper to avoid clumps or bumps. 

Must-Have Products
Here’s the thing that most guys don’t realize. Shampoo isn’t enough. Adding one or two styling products to his daily regimen is the secret to looking well-groomed, no matter how he wears his hair. There are options for every hair type.

Fine Hair
After shampooing, apply a light holding product like mousse to damp strands, comb the hair into place and let it dry completely.  This ‘sets’ the hair and controls the texture.  Next, break up strands with a brush or with the hands and add a dab of light pomade for shine and unfussy texture. 

Thick Hair
Prep thick, damp hair with a leave-in conditioner or styling crème before it dries. Then there’s another step once the hair is dry, that will help control this hair type. Select a strong-hold pomade that will make the hair firm but not sticky.  Work up from the back and sides and finally through the longest top sections, using the hands to form the final shape.

Curly Hair
Curly hair is thirsty hair so moisture is critical.  Styling should start with a cocktail of leave-in conditioner and hair crème applied to damp hair.  (If hair is super-dry and frizzy, add a few drops of styling oil to the mix.)  Keep in mind that every curly texture is different so your guy may have to experiment with his cocktail to get the perfect recipe.  Massage into hair and then, hands off!  The moisture in the products will encourage a controlled and consistent curl formation and tame the frizz. Touching curls once they’re dry will just mess up the curl pattern.

Special Circumstances

Dry Scalp
Most docs don’t even know what causes scalps to become dry and flaky, but no guy wants to sport white stuff on his collar. One thing that is for certain—his flakiness isn’t about clean hair (or not) it’s about the skin on his scalp, which is producing and turning over skin cells at a too-rapid rate. The fix is pretty simple. Look for a scalp-treatment shampoo and conditioner that keep the scalp hydrated and irritation-free. They may contain natural anti-bacterial and calming ingredients like mint leaf or rosemary.

More Salt than Pepper
If backed against a wall, most guys would admit they don’t much care for their gray hair. Gray may be a good look for a professor or CEO who wants to give the impression of wisdom and experience, but not so much for a guy still competing for the promotion, raise, new job, etc. Covering a guy’s gray with hair color has become fairly quick and painless, thanks to professional demi-permanent hair color formulas that subtly blend the silvers, rather than covering them like shoe polish. These products also prevent the dreaded orange effect, they process in just 10 to 20 minutes, and since they fade gradually with subsequent shampoos there’s never a grow-out line.

Where Did All The Highlights Go?
When he was the cutest lifeguard on the beach, the sun did a heck of a highlighting job. Now the main light he’s exposed to is from his laptop, and that sun-kissed blonde has turned to mouse beige. Again, professional hair color to the rescue. A few swift, hand painted highlights after each haircut will transport him back to his Baywatch glory days, and no one will be the wiser. 

This article first appeared on Matrix.com