“If it ends in ‘cone,’ leave it alone.” This and similar “advice” is common with regard to silicones in hair care products, and shampoo & conditioner in particular. Silicone-based ingredients have gotten a bad rap in the hair care industry, said to be harmful because they can:
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• Build up on your hair
• Weigh it down
• Make it look flat
• Lock out moisture

While some of these can be true, a blanket statement that silicones in hair care products are “bad for your hair” simply isn’t accurate. In this article I’ll dive into the science behind these claims and get to the bottom of whether silicones in hair care products are actually bad for your hair. Let’s get into it.
 
What Are Silicones & Their Purpose?

Silicones can be found in shampoos, conditioners, leave-in conditioners, hair serums and masks because of their effectiveness at getting rid of frizz. Silicones are a stronger, organic/inorganic version of hair oil, though much more effective.

They function as powerful emollients and occlusives. Emollients soften and add shine, while occlusives are used to seal and lock in moisture and lock out humidity and frizz. Silicones do both of these really well.

Furthermore, silicones help provide slip so you can run your fingers and brushes through your hair with minimal tangling. All this sounds really good, right? So what’s the problem?

Before we can address the claims outlined above we need a better understanding of silicones.

Silicones 101

The claim “all silicones cause buildup” is false. The more accurate claim should be, some silicones cause build up, while some are water-soluble, and some actually evaporate on their own. It all comes down to chemistry, and with most things in chemistry, it’s never black & white.
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There are many different types of silicones but for simplicity we’ll divide silicone ingredients into three categories: water-soluble, water-insoluble, & evaporating. In the graphic below you’ll see many of the most common silicones.

In the first column we have what’s commonly referred to as PEG silicones. Since water is polar and oils are non-polar, they don’t mix or dissolve in each other, thus the potential for buildup. However by adding a polar substance like polyethylene glycol, you can make it water-soluble.

This doesn’t mean they will rinse out completely, but the PEG attached to it will significantly reduce buildup while still allowing the silicone to perform its job. These silicones will partially rinse out and partially stay on your hair to perform their occlusive magic.

One thing to pay attention to is the number next to the PEG or PPG. The higher the number, the more soluble it is. Anything under PEG-8 is not very soluble, while PEG-12 is more soluble, and PEG-16 even more soluble, and so on.

Next, in column two, we have the water-insoluble silicones which are the original version of the PEG-modified silicones you see in column one. These are the strong ones that will stick to your hair but do a great job of adding slip, shine, and fighting frizz.

You will see I starred amodimethicone in the middle. This one is supposed to be a special case. It’s a polymer-type silicone that binds to damaged parts of your hair and doesn’t accumulate on top of itself. However, other silicones can build up on top of it.

Finally in column three we have a special group of silicones that evaporate on their own. You commonly see these evaporating silicones mixed into products to help spread other ingredients throughout your hair. You might see an evaporating silicone added to a coconut oil serum to help spread it through your hair and then evaporate.
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You will find these in hair serums and leave-in conditioners. They temporarily provide the detangling and slip so you can spread the product through your hair, and then evaporate. Any remaining residue can be removed with any shampoo.

​How Much Silicone Buildup is Bad?
 
How much silicone usage actually causes buildup? Because if silicones are the 15th ingredient vs. the 5th ingredient in a conditioner, is it really causing buildup?

In a 1994 article in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology by Rushton, there were some interesting findings on silicones.

First, silicones from a 2-in-1 shampoo accumulated on the surface of the hair for the first five uses, but after that, there was no more accumulation. There is only so much surface on the hair for silicone to bond to, it does not accumulate indefinitely (1).

Second, 90% of silicone residue was removed with one shampooing with a silicone-free shampoo. The detergents sodium lauryl or sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl or laureth sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine (possible coco betaine) are most effective in removing silicone residue (1).

Also, I’d say most buildup happens with styling products like hair serums, curl creams, and leave-in conditioners. Many of these products are very silicone-heavy (i.e. silicones are the first or second ingredient). If your shampoo & conditioner have silicones and you combine these with leave-ins with more silicones, you’re likely to see some buildup relatively quickly.

How Do You Get Rid Of Silicone Buildup?

Let’s say you do use silicones or notice silicones in your hair products. How do you get rid of the buildup? There is a common belief that only sulfates are strong enough to get rid of silicone build-up. As the journal said, sulfates are the quickest way to get rid of silicone build-up, but not the only way.
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You can also use milder anionic surfactants that are combined with each other. If you don’t know what that means, here is a chart showing you the ingredients.

In the first column you have the strongest anionic surfactants, which are sulfates. In the third column are sulfonates, which are not as strong as a sulfate, but still strong. Any of these will do the job on their own.

But let’s say you want to get rid of silicones while staying sulfate-free. Then you can look at any of the ingredients from the middle column of mild anionic surfactants combined with each other or with the amphoteric surfactants in column three.

The good news is, most shampoos that are sulfate-free will combine 1-2 surfactants in them to still cleanse, meaning you can remove silicone buildup without sulfates.

The Verdict On Silicones in Hair Care Products

First of all, I think we can put to rest the idea that “if it ends in ‘cone,’ leave it alone.” In my opinion, silicones only become a problem with excessive buildup. One layer of silicones can be really helpful in your weekly hair regimen.

With that said, individuals with certain hair and scalp types or specific preferences might be better off avoiding silicones.

For example, if you have curly hair and follow the curly girl method to a T (which calls for not using any shampoo at all), or if you’re someone who subscribes to, “never use shampoo ever” (“no-poo”), and you only do conditioner washes (“co-wash”), then silicones will be hard to remove and should be avoided.

If you have super fine and thin hair, silicones could weigh your hair down with buildup. And if silicones make your hair look too shiny and you don’t like that, you might be better off without them.

For everyone else, I wouldn’t worry about it. Silicones are amazing at fighting humidity and frizz, they prevent breakage by adding slip, and they will come out easily with almost any silicone-free shampoo.
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Silicone usage is less about harm and more about personal preference. They’re safe! It’s not something to freak out about and they can have tons of benefits.

From just a passing glance, it’s obvious that red hair differs from other shades. It’s eye-catching, multi-tonal, and has an ability to command attention.

But other than its striking colour, red hair is different to other hair colours in many other ways.

Red hair is more fragile, and in shorter supply

Natural ginger hair strands are much more fragile than other hair types. And, while many redheads believe they have lots of hair, in general they technically have fewer strands.

In fact, it’s estimated that natural blondes have 110,000 strands on average, brunettes have 140,000, while redheads only have 90,000 strands on their heads in total. These fewer strands are usually thicker for redheads though, so the appearance can sometimes be that gingers actually look like they have more hair than other colours.

As you can imagine, this combination of fragility and thickness makes for a somewhat tricky customer.

Ginger hair is prone to frizz and coarseness

Due to the fragility and thickness of red hair strands, this often makes for coarseness and frizz aplenty, which in turn can actually make your ginger shade appear duller than it should. If you think about it, the frizz stands in the way of allowing light to reflect more easily off your hair, so it’s difficult to achieve shiny, bright red hair.

By encouraging smoothness of the follicles and strands, more light can then reflect off it, giving brighter, shinier red hair that reveals the multi-tones of your ginger shade.

Dryness is the enemy

With the above issues of frizz and fragility, many redheads turn to heat styling to try to combat the coarseness and to impose some smoothness on their ginger locks.

While heat styling is a temporary solution to reducing frizz, and indeed does smoothen the strands, what happens is it makes your red hair drier and drier each time. Everyone knows that excessive heat styling is bad for their hair, but for redheads, having already fragile and frizz-prone strands means this is a sure-fire way to cause breakage and split ends.

Moisture is your friend

What red hair craves is heaps of moisture to help encourage strength and smoothness in its follicles and strands.

But don’t mistake ‘moisture’ for ‘silicones’. Found in the majority of hair products, silicones are an artificial way of pumping something that appears to give smoothness and moisture to your hair. Granted, for a time your hair may become shinier and feel more conditioned, but over time it will become accustomed to these silicones, which can cause product build-up and eventual dullness, too.

The reason why silicones are so prevalent in haircare is because they’re often teamed up with sulfates, the foaming agent commonly used in shampoos and soaps. They’re bad news for the hair and scalp in general, and in particular for redheads, as they’re extremely drying, stripping your natural, glossy oils from your scalp and strands.

The answer?

What we’re faced with here is red hair that is crying out for something to combat its frizz, fragility, coarseness and dryness.

By cutting out both sulfates and silicones, either by going cold turkey or through gradual use, you can train your red hair to rely less on artificial ingredients. Instead, use ingredients that enhance red hair and help alleviate its weaknesses, injecting more shine, moisture and vibrancy into it.
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Oh, and kick your heat styling habit, too.

Overview
If you have a dry, flaking scalp, you may suspect dandruff. But it could be a sign of dry scalp. Dandruff and dry scalp have the same main symptoms, which are falling flakes and an itchy scalp, but they are two different conditions.
In dry scalp, the skin gets irritated and flakes off. With dandruff, the cause is too much oil on the scalp. That excess oil causes skin cells to build up and then shed. Knowing which of these conditions you have can help you get the right treatment and banish those flakes for good.

Causes and Symptoms
You get dry scalp when your skin has too little moisture. The skin on your scalp becomes irritated and flakes off. If your scalp is dry, the skin on other parts of your body, like your arms and legs, could be dry, too.

Dry scalp can also be triggered by factors like these:

• cold, dry air
• contact dermatitis caused by a reaction to products you apply to your scalp, like shampoo, styling gel, and hairspray
• older age

The skin cells on your scalp and body normally multiply when you need more of them. Then they die and shed off. When you have dandruff, skin cells on your scalp shed more quickly than usual.

The main cause of dandruff is seborrheic dermatitis, a condition that turns the skin oily, red, and scaly. The white or yellow scales flake off, creating dandruff. You can get seborrheic dermatitis anywhere you have oil glands, including your eyebrows, groin, armpits, and along the sides of your nose. In babies it’s called cradle cap.

Often, a fungus called malassezia triggers dandruff. This fungus normally lives on your scalp. Yet some people have too much of it, and it causes skin cells to multiply more quickly than usual.

Certain factors can cause malassezia to multiply, including:

• age
• hormones
• stress

Dirty hair doesn’t cause dandruff, but if you don’t wash your hair often enough, the oily buildup can contribute to flakes.

One way to tell the difference between dry scalp and flakes from dandruff is by their appearance. Dandruff flakes are bigger and they look oily. In babies with cradle cap, the scalp looks scaly or crusty. Both dryness and dandruff can make your scalp itch.

Symptoms of dandruff vs. dry scalp

Following is a comparison of the main symptoms of each condition:

Seeing a doctor
You can treat most dandruff yourself with an over-the-counter shampoo. If you’ve tried a dandruff shampoo for at least a month and your flakes haven’t improved, they’re getting worse, or the skin on your scalp looks red or swollen, make an appointment with a dermatologist, which is a doctor that specializes in treating the skin. You might have another skin condition that needs to be treated.
Your doctor will determine whether you have dandruff by looking at your scalp and hair. They can rule out conditions like eczema and psoriasis, which can also cause flaky skin on the scalp.

Treatment
If you have dry scalp, wash with a gentle shampoo and then use a moisturizing conditioner. One way to tell whether you have dry scalp or dandruff is to apply a light moisturizer to your scalp before you go to bed. If the cause is dry scalp, the flakes should disappear once you shower the next morning. Some hair stylists can perform a scalp treatment that uses steam to deliver more moisture to your scalp.

For mild dandruff, wash your hair every day with a gentle shampoo to reduce the amount of oil on your scalp. If your dandruff is more severe or a regular shampoo doesn’t work, try a dandruff shampoo.

Most dandruff shampoos contain medicine that kills the fungus on your scalp or removes flaky skin. Here are some examples:

Pyrithione zinc (Head and Shoulders, Jason Dandruff Relief 2 in 1) is an antifungal drug. It kills the fungus on your scalp that causes flaking. Pyrithione zinc shampoos are gentle enough to use every day.

Selenium sulfide (Selsun Blue) reduces fungus and prevents too many skin cells from dying off. If you have blond or gray hair or you dye your hair, ask your doctor before using shampoo containing selenium sulfide. It can change your hair color.

Ketoconazole (Nizoral) kills the fungus that causes dandruff. You can buy it in over the counter or prescription strength.

Salicylic acid (Neutrogena T/Sal) removes extra scale from your scalp before it can flake. In some people, salicylic acid can dry out the skin and cause more flaking.

Coal tar (Neutrogena T/Gel) slows the growth and shedding of skin cells on the scalp. Tar-based shampoos can also change your hair color if you have blond or gray hair.

Shampoos containing tea tree oil are an alternative remedy for dandruff. Tea tree oil is a natural ingredient with antifungal properties. An older studyTrusted Source from 2012 showed that a 5 percent tea tree oil shampoo reduced scaling without causing side effects. Some people are allergic to tea tree oil. Ask your doctor before you try it. Stop using the product if you have any redness or swelling.

No matter which dandruff shampoo you try, read the instructions on the bottle and follow them carefully. If you’re not sure which shampoo to use or how often to use it, ask your doctor or pharmacist for advice. You might have to try a few brands before you find one that relieves your dandruff.

Once your dandruff improves, you might be able to cut back on the number of days that you use the shampoo. For more stubborn dandruff, your doctor can prescribe a stronger shampoo or a steroid lotion.

Outlook
Dandruff isn’t curable. Most people will have to manage symptoms over the long term. Usually, the flakes will come and go. Treating dandruff with a special shampoo can manage the condition and prevent itching and flakiness.

Prevention
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Here are some tips to prevent dandruff and dry scalp:

• If you have dandruff, wash your hair often with an antidandruff shampoo. Make sure to rinse out all the shampoo.
• Avoid using hair products that contain harsh chemicals, like bleach and alcohol. These ingredients can dry out your scalp. Also avoid oily hair products that can build up on your scalp.
• Spend a few minutes out in the sun every day. There’s some evidence that ultraviolet light exposure can help control dandruff. Yet you don’t want to get too much sun exposure because it can increase your risk for skin cancer.
• Manage your stress with meditation, yoga, deep breathing, and other relaxation techniques.

Carrot oil is a popular hair treatment that comes in several forms and can be applied in multiple ways. It’s said to be nourishing for hair, though this claim is anecdotal. Users report that it makes hair softer, accelerates growth, protects the hair from damage, and more. Carrot oil comes in various forms:

• essential oil derived from carrot seeds
• oil derived from the roots of the carrot
• numerous store-bought products and treatments

Carrot oil contains high levels of vitamin A, vitamin E, and beta carotene, which are essential nutrients for hair health.

What are the benefits?

Based on anecdotal evidence, carrot oil can help hair to grow faster and thicker. People who are looking to keep their hair long and avoid split ends may find that carrot oil helps. Conditioning the hair with carrot oil is also said to improve its texture, making it shinier, smoother, and softer to the touch.

Others who use carrot oil say it helps to prevent hair loss by making the roots stronger at the scalp. Its vitamins could have a protective effect from outdoor damage, shielding it from the harshest UV rays and environmental pollution. By boosting blood circulation to the scalp, carrot oil could also serve to keep your hair healthier from root to tip.

Proponents of carrot oil say it is gentle and healing. Because of its mildly sweet fragrance, it can also be combined with other essential oils of your choice for a customized rinse or treatment.

One recent study shows that carrot oil has antibacterial properties against a variety of bacteria and fungus. People experiencing dandruff and dry scalp may find relief from their symptoms when they treat their hair periodically with carrot oil. Using naturally occurring oils on your scalp, particularly if it’s dry, can stimulate the production of your own body’s oil, or sebum.

What are the risks?
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There aren’t many studies on the risks and benefits of carrot oil. Because of the anecdotal nature of reported risks, it’s best to consult your doctor before you begin using carrot oil.

As with any topical product or supplement, carrot oil carries the risk of allergic reaction. Before applying carrot oil to your hair, do a patch test on a small amount of skin, such as an area on the inside of your arm or the back of your neck. Always dilute carrot oil with a carrier oil like grapeseed or coconut oil before applying it to your skin. Leave it on for at least 24 hours to observe whether you react to it. If there’s no reaction, you should be fine to proceed with applying a hair treatment. If you do experience an allergic reaction, stop use immediately and contact your doctor.

While carrot oil doesn’t appear to turn dark-pigmented hair orange, overuse could cause the skin of the scalp to turn orange. Using carrot oil too often on blonde or other light-colored hair may carry the same risk. Some people use carrot juice as a natural hair dye.

In folk medicine, carrot oil has traditionally been used both externally and internally. The biggest health risk carrot oil poses is the possibility of psychoactive effects due to a small amount of a component called myristicin. Any psychoactive effects would only be experienced if you consumed carrot oil internally in high amounts.

Researchers who studied the effects of myristicin in nutmeg found the ingredient to be low in toxicity to humans. They cited that high amounts of the toxin — 6 or 7 milligrams — could intoxicate a human. But because of the small amounts present in carrot oil, you’d have to consume a very large amount in order to become intoxicated. Still, the topic warrants further research.

The carotol component of carrot oil has been shown in one study to be moderately toxic to cells in the body, depending on its source. While specific risks aren’t outlined, people in search of gentle, safe, nontoxic treatments may want to consider alternative options for their hair care needs.

Using too much carrot oil internally can cause nausea and vomiting. Women who are pregnant or breastfeeding should never take carrot oil internally. Additionally, people experiencing asthma or epilepsy should avoid taking it.

How to use carrot oil for hair

You can treat your hair with carrot oil at least twice per week. You can purchase a premade hair treatment, or you can create your own mix and apply at home.

You can make your own hair mask, rinse, or deep conditioner with carrot essential oil. For a simple oil application, dilute 3–4 drops of carrot essential oil in 2–4 tablespoons of coconut oil (or other carrier oil like grapeseed). Work it through your hair with your fingers, massaging it into your scalp. Then, comb it through, cover it with a plastic cap, and leave it in for an hour or two before shampooing it out.

You can also create a rinse using 3–4 drops of carrot oil in a mix of 2 cups water and 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar. After you shampoo your hair, shake this mixture and rinse your hair once more with the carrot oil rinse. Leave in for 5 minutes before rinsing it again.

Many store-bought carrot oil applications are designed to be left in between washes; they come in oil, serum, and cream forms. It’s the carrot essential oil that needs to be diluted. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for prepared products with carrot oil.

Does it work?

According to anecdotal results, carrot oil:

• restores moisture to hair and scalp
• tames frizz
• softens and smooths texture
• helps hair grow more quickly
• protects hair from damage

Some users with fine or thin hair say it adds body. For many users, results appear to be immediate — or begin to appear after the first application or two.
Based on anecdotal evidence and the available studies, carrot oil may be beneficial for periodic to frequent use on the hair and scalp.

From Healthline

Treating Your Hair With Carrots

There are different methods by which you can treat your hair using carrots. The three most well-known methods are mentioned below.

But before you decide to start the treatment, make sure that you store carrots at home so that you can repeat the treatment regularly.

1. Pre-Shampoo Treatment

If you are bored of oiling your hair on a daily basis and not getting results, you should try out this pre-shampoo treatment. You will require up to two carrots depending on the length of your hair.

• Cut the carrots into small pieces and then mix the pieces with honey, olive oil, essential oil, and coconut oil.
• Once the ingredients are blended well, heat the mixture for a maximum of three minutes.
• Next, blend the mixture with curd. You need to make sure the mixture blends well; it should appear similar to a smoothie.
• Now, apply the mixture to your hair roots and then work your way up to the tips.
• Let the mixture stay on your hair for at least 25 minutes. Then, using a good shampoo, rinse out the mixture thoroughly with lukewarm water.

Doing this twice a week will provide you with amazing results including increased hair growth and shine.

2. Carrot Oil

Making carrot oil is the second method you can try for healthier hair. For this, you’ll need some grated carrots. You can use any standard grater for this.

• Grate a couple of carrots, depending on how much oil you want. Don’t go overboard on your first try.
• Once you grate the carrots, keep them in a sterilized jar. Add olive oil, castor oil, or coconut oil.
• Now, keep the mixture away from light for seven days.
• When the oil changes its color and becomes orange, you can compost the carrots and keep the oil in a new clean container.
• Keep the oil applied for around thirty minutes for effective results before rinsing it off.

The carrot oil treatment not only strengthens the roots but also makes the hair healthier. Moreover, it’ll also help prevent hair breakage and split ends.

3. Carrot Hair Mask

This is another efficient method which boosts hair growth. For making such a hair mask, you’ll need a carrot and a peeled banana.

• Cut both of them into pieces and mix them with olive oil.
• Now using curd and a blender, blend the mixture thoroughly until it becomes a paste. Take care that the paste is not extra thick otherwise you will have difficulty when it comes to washing it out.
• Apply this mask all over your hair at let it stay for half an hour.
• Once the time is up, use a regular shampoo to wash it off.

The carrots present in the mask will stimulate your hair growth and prevents breakage while the banana will make the hair silky and smooth.

From The Health Science Journal

4. Carrot Honey for your Hair

Contrary to what many people imagine when hearing the name of this ingredient, it is not formed by the double honey + carrot. Despite this, it remains very simple to prepare. Are you curious to know how carrot honey is made? Then check out the step by step below!

You will need:

• 1 carrot cut into slices
• sugar
• 1 glass container

Preparation method: as soon as you finish cutting the carrot slices, separate a “tall” glass container. That's because the next step is to alternate a layer of carrots and a layer of sugar until the carrots run out. That done, cover the pot and leave it stored for 24 hours. After that time, your carrot honey will be ready - but, remember: it needs to be stored in the refrigerator!

How to use carrot honey in your hair

After preparing the “magic” mixture, it is time to apply it to the strands. First of all, it is worth mentioning that it is important to always check the quality of the carrot honey, so always check if it is not damaged, especially if it has been some time since you prepared the recipe.

How to do it: to hydrate with carrot honey, your hair must be clean and damp. You will not use all the honey at once, so put just one tablespoon of the mixture in another container and also add the Original SOS Pump Hydration Mask or another of your choice and mix well. Apply the lock to lock the hair and let it act for 20 minutes. Then rinse and finish as usual.

From SalonLine BR
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Seeking better hair health? Start at the scalp. Michelle Blaisure, product and technical specialist for Bosley Professional Strength, stresses the importance of a solid background on scalp health, since the scalp skin is the “soil” from which hair grows. “Salon professionals are often the first line of defense when it comes to common scalp issues that can contribute to hair thinning and loss,” Blaisure explains. “They’re given some basic information about scalp issues, such as dry scalp and dandruff, during cosmetology training, so they should be able to recognize some of the more common problems.”

The Importance of ID

Bridgette Hill, aka “The Scalp Therapist,” notes that stylists can address superficial scalp abnormalities, but they should also work in tandem with medical pros—a trichologist, dermatologist or doctor. “Simply by seeing and feeling the scalp, stylists can communicate any changes to clients and aid in identifying their historical scalp/hair routines and habits,” Hill details. “It would be irresponsible to expect the salon professional to medically identify, diagnose or treat conditions of the skin and scalp, but the stylist can present proper scalp analysis and incorporate scalp care to aid in prevention and maintain the health of the clients’ scalp and hair.” Alternatively, Blaisure adds, for more in-depth knowledge—or to specialize in hair and scalp health—trichology certification is a great option.

In reality, a licensed cosmetologist can treat only two scalp conditions in a salon setting once a condition has been diagnosed: dandruff and mild seborrheic dermatitis. “Always put on gloves if you suspect any kind of scalp lesion or debris as some scalp conditions are highly contagious, and practice proper state- issued sanitation rules and regulations,” Hill advises. “While all other conditions must be managed by a dermatologist or medical professional, a stylist should acknowledge any changes in the client’s scalp and hair and engage in proper consultations to address any concern in its infancy before it can become a larger threat to the overall scalp and hair health.” For example, is the client complaining of a scaly, sore or itchy scalp? Are these symptoms visible to the naked eye?

Tony Odisho, president and CEO of Tony Odisho Extensions, agrees that part of the stylist’s job is to examine the scalp as the growing ground for healthy hair— looking for anything from potentially cancerous lesions to excess buildup. “We may see itching, flaking, scaling, allergic reactions or infections, and we may be able to recommend products such as clarifying or anti-dandruff shampoo in certain cases,” he says. “But it’s very important to build a relationship with a dermatologist so you can refer the client when you spot problems.”

Generally, Hill notes several scalp conditions to watch out for, and their symptoms:

• Dandruff: Skin cells of the scalp shed at a faster rate than normal, creating buildup.
• Seborrheic dermatitis: Occurring in oily skin areas other than just the scalp, symptoms are itchiness, as well as scaly, red skin that may occur with dandruff.
• Psoriasis: Look for bright pink, inflamed skin covered with silvery scales (which may bleed if the scales are removed).
• Folliculitis: is is a contagious inflammation of the hair follicle.
• Fungal/bacterial ringworm. “Most medical scalp conditions relate more to general health and diet, but a contributing factor of some scalp ailments can be attributed to the products that the stylist uses on the client during chemical or styling services,” Hill says. “The stylist should do patch testing and incorporate proper scalp cleansing and exfoliation as pre-treatment services, while comprehensive consultations will assist a client in getting to the root of his or her scalp issues and can allow the salon pro to guide the client to consult with a trichologist or dermatologist if needed.”

Root Causes

Hill notes that abnormal hair and scalp conditions can be caused by one or a combination of factors: Genetics, lifestyle, diet, styling habits, environment, health, stress, hormones, and medications may all play a role. For severe problems medical testing may be required, while some issues can be tamed in-salon with treatments that encourage more circulation in the scalp, plus proper shampooing so that the scalp is being properly cleansed and balanced, Hill says. “Because scalp health is a affected by a combination of factors, it’s often challenging to isolate one particular cause,” she adds.

However, Hill outlines some possible causes of various scalp conditions:

• Dandruff: overgrowth of yeast, stress, hormones, excess oil on the scalp, immune system illnesses
• Seborrheic dermatitis: overgrowth of yeast, fatty/poor diet, stress, winter weather
• Psoriasis: bacterial or viral infections, dry air (often worse in winter), injury to skin, stress, excess alcohol consumption, weakened immune system
• Folliculitis: viruses, bacteria, inflammation of ingrown hairs
• Fungal/bacterial (contagious): pets, warm weather environments that create more wetness on the scalp

Odisho, for example, witnesses a definite uptick in dryness amid the fluctuating weather at his Chicago-based salon, while tress-taming ingredients like keratin or silicones can clog the scalp. “Scalp problems can be due to a variety of circumstances, such as the use of harsh chemicals; infrequent shampooing and overuse of dry shampoos; stress; autoimmune disorders; a poor diet lacking in vital nutrients; and environmental factors such as pollution, dry/cold weather and sun damage,” Blaisure explains. “Or the client may simply be genetically predisposed to certain scalp conditions, like eczema.” If a client is experiencing a scalp problem or hair loss, Blaisure recommends questioning the client to help determine the source of the issue and contributing factors, which can provide the stylist with information that can help her make a recommendation—e.g., an anti-dandruff shampoo, different hair products, reducing chemical processes, or seeing a medical pro for a diagnosis.

Talk Therapy

As Blaisure notes, experts agree that conversation is critical—but when it’s time to have that talk with clients, stylists may feel intimidated. How can you approach the topic in a helpful way? “Sometimes stylists are more concerned about making a client comfortable than actually solving problems,” Odisho admits. “But many clients are more likely to confide in their stylist than a doctor, so with the proper education and verbiage, stylists can feel more comfortable.”

Indeed, Hill recommends engaging with the client and making time to scan the client’s scalp and hair prior to every appointment. “Ask questions: ‘Have you noticed or experienced any changes in your scalp and hair since our last appointment?’” she advises. “When seasons change, that’s a great opportunity to inquire about any at-home hair routine changes.” Additionally, if you notice a severe issue (think bleeding or scaly patches), acknowledge what you see and ask, “Have you felt any changes in sensitivity or tenderness on your scalp?” Identify areas of concern and suggest dermatological care in severe cases.

Blaisure agrees that a consultation is the first step toward treatment— especially with a new client. “ is can be as simple as saying, ‘Tell me about your hair; have you had any challenges?’” she says. “This can easily lead into discussing what the stylist sees.” Meanwhile, with a regular client, Blaisure recommends taking advantage of that established relationship to bring up any issues with the scalp or hair, and then making recommendations based on the client’s responses.

Targeted Solutions

Naturally, the proper solutions to a scalp issue depend on the causes. Hill outlines the following possible treatments for various scalp conditions:

• Dandruff: frequent shampooing; anti-​dandruff shampoos containing selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, sulfur, coal tar or zinc; reducing stress and fats in the diet (such as chocolate and cheese)
• Seborrheic dermatitis: Anti- inflammatory, antiseptic prescriptions; frequent shampooing; medical prescriptions; a shampoo with the ingredients mentioned for dandruff
• Psoriasis: Requires medical care (possibly topical and/or oral prescriptions); frequent shampooing; or a shampoo with the ingredients mentioned for dandruff
• Folliculitis or fungal/bacterial causes: Requires medical care with oral and/or topical prescriptions 

However, note that some conditions can look similar, such as dry scalp and dandruff. “With both, we see dry flaking on the scalp, but dandruff is due to a fungal overgrowth, whereas dry scalp is often due to a lack of moisture or oil in the skin,” Blaisure explains. “If it itches and has been ongoing, it may be dandruff, and recommending an anti-dandruff shampoo would be a solution; if it’s dry scalp, using a moisturizing conditioner or scalp oil can help alleviate the dryness.”

On the other hand, Blaisure adds, if the problems are caused by chemical services or products, the client may want to reduce the use of chemicals, cut down the use of problem-causing products or switch the product regimen altogether. “Cleansing the scalp on a regular basis is always recommended—shampooing at least once a week, if not more, especially if your client is experiencing scalp issues,” Blaisure says. “When the scalp is not cleansed on a regular basis, bacteria can build up along with debris and cause inflammation on the scalp, which can lead not only to scalp problems but also to hair loss.”

Still, Hill warns, some of the proven active ingredients in those scalp treatments may have adverse affects on the hair fabric, creating a challenge for the stylist. “ is is where a certified trichologist can assist: understanding ingestibles, topicals and scalp therapies that can offer scalp relief as well as maintain the integrity of the hair,” Hill notes. “For any client who suffers from scalp conditions, use soothing salves and oils designed for sensitive scalps, and create barriers before chemical treatments.”These products are also ideal for pre-treatments before shampooing.

Finally, clients with chronic scalp issues should be encouraged to maintain minimal-heat, low-tension hairstyling routines so as not to worsen any present conditions. Hill notes that most scalp conditions can only be controlled (versus completely healed), but stylists can offer preventive scalp services and treatments to keep domes properly exfoliated and cleansed, which assists in managing proper cellular turnover while keeping the hair follicle nutrient-rich.
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This information is from LaunchPad