Edie Sedgwick’s name never fails to pop up when discussing the all-important topic of historical short hair cuts. The Factory Girl, born seventy years ago this weekend, wasted no time becoming an overnight hair icon when in 1965 she chopped off her long, mousy brown hair into a bleach blond, and sometimes silver spray-painted crop cut. Women cut their hair for all different reasons, from film roles (Rooney Mara) to liberation (Emma Watson) but the chop feels as fresh and bold today as it did fifty years ago, with similar versions now back in the limelight on many young stars, from Miley Cyrus to Anne Hathaway, to Michelle Williams.
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Short “boy” cuts tend to fall into two distinct camps: the pixie and the tougher, partially buzzed version. Actress Jean Seberg can be credited as one of the earlier adopters of the pixie (chopping it off in 1957 for her first film role as Joan of Arc), but her look became most iconic in Goddard’s Breathless. Audrey Hepburn’s enviable crop in Sabrina continues to inspire gamines everywhere. Click through the slideshow to see Rihanna, Agyness Deyn, Tilda Swinton, Mia Farrow, Demi Moore and all the women you’ll want to use as short hair inspiration this spring.

Thin hair can do the most terrible things to a man’s confidence. Even the best-dressed, or the fittest of them all. Thing is, most of us will face the thinning truth at some point as we age, which is why finding hairstyles for men with thin hair, isn’t just a ‘that’s his problem’ kinda thing, cause you could be next, Jason Statham.

The Thin Down

While you can spend loads on hair volumising products and anti-hair loss pills, there actually are tried and tested hairstyles for men with thin hair, which will make your hair look normal, luscious even, and it’s all in the way it’s cut. But first, here are some things to stop doing if your hair is thinning. First up, accept it.

“Understand that balding happens to 80% of men,” says Jules Tognini, senior stylist at Togninis and Philips Shaving and Grooming ambassador.

And as for prevention? “My number one tip is don’t wash hair too often”, adds Jules. “A lot of hair products are filled with substances that can strip moisture in your hair and cause hair damage. Smoking is also another cause of hair loss. In fact, I believe 65% of men that smoke have a greater risk of hair loss.”
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So, putting the thick back into thin hair again, here are the best hairstyles for men with thin hair, and you don’t have to shave it all off to get there, Bruce Willis.

#1 Swept Back Pompadour

Starting to develop a monk-like bald patch at the crown of your head? Go for the swept back pompadour. “Flip your hair back,” says Jules. “With this style try keeping your fringe long.”

This creates height at the front and sees the hair sweep back towards the crown of the head. The visual trick is using the longer hair at the front to sweep over the thinning area at the back.

Best for: men who are thinning at the crown or back of the head.

How to get it: Product and styling adds volume to this look. Use a hair dryer to help guide your hair into place, especially if you’ve got an awkward hairline. Plus, the air builds height that makes hair appear fuller.
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“Then use a generous amount of a styling paste to control the style and keep your bare spots secret. My tip is to avoid a wax and use a dry product instead, as greasy hair can make your balding spot look worse,” adds Jules.

#2 Short & Textured

Short and textured or messy, is another hairstyle for men with thin hair. The dishevelled nature makes it look like you have more hair on top, due to the extra volume. “The shortness will make your hair feel thicker,” adds Jules. “Sometimes if you try too hard to cover your balding spot it can make it look worse.”

Best for: men who have front head baldness, beyond a receding hairline.
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How to get it: Use a texturising product like water-based pomade, rubbing a dab of product between palms, before working through the hair with fingers, messily of course, and you’re done. If you’ve got straight hair, then try spiking it a little, but go easy on the product, and avoid looking like a porcupine.

#3 Fringe Or Parted

Inspired by the Don Draper do, grow your hair longer on top and keep the sides and back short. The whole idea is to wear your hair forward.

“Any haircut that consists of hair swept forward or to the sides work perfectly well for men with thinning hair,” says Jules.

Best for: a receding hairline, and men seeking a more refined option with their thin hair.
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How to get it:  Use a lightweight, medium hold product that won’t weight hair down, like a matte-finish, water-based pomade. Oil-based ones are, yes, oily looking, and are hard to wash out.

#4 Fade It

An undercut and/or fade makes hair on top look more prominent and thicker, thanks to the contrasting short sides and back, so it’s perfect for gents starting to thin.

Best for: men who have still have some hair at the front, and who’s job means they can indulge in a more fashion-y hairstyle.
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How to get it: grow your hair to a medium length on top and comb it across to the opposite side for maximum fullness. Add some volumising powder at the roots to add thickness and fullness making the hair follicles sit up near the scalp.

Ultimate Thin Hair Sin

As tempting as it is, there is one major thin hair sin to avoid. “Don’t do the comb over,” says Jules. “This is when the hair is grown long and combed over the bald area to minimise the evidence, obviously.”

And, think quick. As soon as you notice that you are balding, take action to prevent it from getting worse.

“For instance, try switching shampoos to an organic product that makes your hair look thicker,” concludes Jules.
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This article first appeared on D'Marge

It was only a generation ago (give or take) that a basin-cut was still a legitimate men’s hairstyle for some barbers. Before the barbershop renaissance in the 21st century, the trade often amounted to a hairy half hour in the chair as someone with minimal training took a hack-it-and-hope approach to your head.

A lot has changed. These days even high-street barbers are capable of creating haircuts akin to artwork, using tools that wouldn’t look out of place in an operating theatre.

Case in point: the taper fade.

This modern haircut element is the perfect mix of classic and contemporary, providing the ideal foundation upon which to build almost any style. As sharp on a LinkedIn bio as it is on a Tinder one, it’s a next-level barbering technique and one that will get you noticed. But just what exactly is it?

Taper Vs. Fade:
What’s The Difference?

The first thing to understand about the taper fade is that it is actually an amalgamation of two different barbering tricks – somewhat unsurprisingly, the taper and the fade.

These two cutting methods are similar in that they both offer a way to graduate smoothly between differing lengths of hair. The distinction between the two is that a taper deals with longer hair and sculpts using both scissors and clippers, while a fade is performed with clippers only and is much shorter, right down to the skin usually.

Leading barber Joe Mills, of Joe & Co., has a handy analogy to make it clear.

“Think about trousers that taper, says Mills. “They gradually get narrower. So, in haircut terms, a taper is not down to skin but the hair gradually gets shorter. A fade is similar but fades away entirely, hence the term ‘skin fade’. It’s more extreme than a taper.”
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What Is A Taper Fade Haircut?

Combining a taper with a fade allows barbers to neatly transition from hair of a significant length, right down to a skin fade with – quite literally – razor-sharp precision. This creates the sort of modern, polished look that would have had the hairdressers of yesteryear scratching at their butchered barnets in astonishment.

How Did The Taper Fade Become Popular?

Both tapered and faded styles have had a huge resurgence over the past few years, thanks in no small part to certain period dramas opening men’s eyes to a new (or old) style of grooming.

“It descended from the old days when hair clippers were hand powered and you could only go short,” explains Mikey Pearson, director of Manifesto barbershop. “They would cut along the hairline to create a kind of wedge then blend it in with scissors. If hair flicked out from above the ears you would be classed as ‘scruffy’.”

The taper fade harks back to this, while keeping one foot firmly planted in the here and now, making it the trim of choice for so many contemporary, style-conscious gents.

“It’s a clean, crisp look,” says Pearson. “And thanks to the likes of the Peaky Blinders we’re seeing more and more men asking for it.”

Is It For You?

The taper fade is a versatile trim, because it’s essentially a boss-level version of the short back and sides. It can be worn with anything from a short crop to an all-singing, all-shiny pompadour on top. Because of this versatility, it’s a cut that can be adapted to suit most face shapes.

However, if you’re cursed with a boat race longer than Seabiscuit’s and want to try this style, you’re best advised to steer clear of anything with too much height. The close-cut sides and length left on top mean that the taper fade naturally lends the face some additional length. Which, unless you’re deliberately going for the equine vibe, is probably something to avoid.

“The taper fade is suited to most as you can adapt the height and shape of the fade and weight of the blend to suit any client,” explains Tom Chapman, founder of the Lions Barber Collective and ambassador to The Bluebeards Revenge. “If you have a more daring client in the chair you can take the shortest grad up pretty high and leave a heavy blend. You can also leave more weight at the sides behind the ear by creating an arch as your base shape instead of the usual straight shape.”

The Best Taper Fade Styles And How To Get Them

Before you buzz off to the barbers for one of the decade’s defining chops, take a look at some of the style’s most popular variations for a bit of follicular inspiration.

Taper Fade & Short Crop

They say less is more and, looking at the minimalist styling of this particular trim, we’re inclined to agree. It’s perfect for the kind of guy who wants something smart and low maintenance that won’t leave him wincing at old photographs 10 years down the line.

“This style has a very graduated skin-fade from the base up to a longer layer,” explains Mark Woolley, founder of Electric Hairdressing. “The top layer is slightly disconnected from the back and sides.”

Think this might be the cut for you? Woolley always recommends taking a photo along with you to avoid any awkward, post-trim mirror moments.

“You ultimately want to ask for a fading cut with a slightly disconnected top layer which gives you a nice, choppy texture,” he says.

Apply a salt spray or matte clay/paste roughly with your fingers to increase separation and help emphasise the natural, care-free texture created on top.

Taper Fade & Pompadour

If Johnny Cash had been born 60 years later, there’s no doubt that this would be the do he’d be rocking. A perfect blend of old and new, the pompadour is a nod to one of the defining styles of the last century, while the taper fade on the back and sides brings things right up to date.

So, how can you get the look? Again, you’ll want some inspiration.

“A picture is worth a hundred words,” says Mills. “This is doubly true when getting a cut. Take an image in so at least your barber knows what you are thinking. The terminology we use can be confusing and for me the consultation with the client is key.”

Mills adds that the trick to getting the cut right is to know how close you want to go at the back and sides. “Ideally the top should be at least four or five inches longer than at the back and sides,” he says.

“To style it you will need a decent hair dryer and a Denman vent brush,” advises Mills. “This isn’t a wash and go look.
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“I recommend a styling mousse on clean damp hair. Evenly distribute a tangerine-sized amount through the hair and then using your brush and dryer, style it back away from the face creating height and direction.” Finish with a strong-hold hair spray if you find your style loses its pomp after a couple of hours.

Taper Fade & Side-Swept Length

Generally speaking, the graduated back and sides of a taper fade is geared towards shorter haircuts. However, with some clever, asymmetrical styling, there’s no reason you can’t embrace your inner grunger at the same time.

“The key characteristics of this cut are the low fade on the back and sides with a disconnected top,” says Pearson.

“Ask for a low fade, something like a five into a four. Keep the top disconnected, cutting short to long to keep length at the fringe. As always I would recommend taking a photo with you.”

In terms of styling at home, Pearson suggests using a volume spray in damp hair and blow drying upwards. Once dry, he recommends finishing off with a matte clay to add texture.

Taper Fade & Short Braids

A few short braids or dreads thrown into the mix adds a nice touch of personality to a taper fade, while remaining clean and smart enough to dress up or down. Highly-experienced barber Joseph Lanzante, who runs his own barbering academy, is certainly a fan.

“A taper fade finished with short dreads on top has become a very popular haircut as it provides a clean and stylish finish to the overall style,” he says.

“To create a clean-cut taper fade, you will need to ask your barber for a grade one cut on the back, fading up to grade two and three. Make sure you keep your hair long on top long to ensure you can create the short dreads that are key to this style.”

Another plus point for this particular style is that management at home couldn’t be easier. Lanzante recommends nothing more complex than coconut oil. Rub the oil through the hair to keep it nourished and moisturised but be careful not to use too much or it could wind up looking oily.

This article first appeared on FashionBeans

The rise and rise of the Peaky Blinders show has led to a plethora of retro trends in the menswear industry, noticeably in the resurgence of loose fitting tailoring, baker boy hats and collar pins. But its presence can truly be felt in what’s arguably the most popular haircut since David Beckham’s pompadour – the undercut.

Usually longer and swept back on top, gradually faded into the back and sides, Cillian Murphy’s haircut has been pumped out of barbershops around the nation like a grooming equivalent of the fidget spinner (except that it’s not incredibly irritating and you don’t want to weep for humanity when you see one). But if the Peaky Blinders cut is a bit too extreme for you e.g. you think you might look like a Midget Gem with completely shaved sides and a dollop of hair on the top, don’t worry, there are other variations of the style for you to try out that will work for your head shape. Let Ruffians Richard Tucker (@tuckercuts) explain the alternatives and how you can get them…

Layered Undercut
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With a high fade this one is definitely a harsher look! Still made to look smart with a faded transition instead of just a number 0 taken to the sides. Longer layers on top to create movement a bit like Brad Pitt in the movie Fury. This creates volume as when undercuts get long they can become flat without the right products. Styled with Ruffians pomade to add definition, just add a pea size amount and with your hands work through after a towel dry.

Textured Undercut

​It’s all about the texture in this one. Still a hint of a fade below the temple areas but mostly this cut brings your eyes to the definite disconnection and movement through the top. This style can actually be worn back as well as forward. Styled with Ruffians Styling paste and L’Oréal salt spray to pick out the texture and de-fluff the top.

​Med Fade Undercut

​Creating a contrast between the top and the sides. This cut is less harsh than some under cuts, great if you want an undercut but don’t want to go for the 1920s Peaky Blinders version, which can be too much of a statement for some. The med fade leaves enough hair on the top sides for the longer hair to flow into, almost seems like it’s connected but it’s actually flowing in to the fade.

This first appeared on TOPMAN.com

Spotlight on the latest men’s cutting and styling techniques, so you can up your game for 2018 in the barbershop, and create the cool new looks everyone will be wanting in no time!

If you’re following any trendy barbers on Instagram (particularly the ones based in Europe), go take a look at your feed right now.  What do you see?  Texture, longer hair and fringes?  Yes, we’re definitely at a crossroads when it comes to new shapes and haircuts for men.

The European Influence

This latest transformation for men (like so many other big hair trends over the decades!) has taken off in the U.K. more than in any other country, it seems.

“I’ve been seeing this coming out of the U.K. for over a year and a half now,” says Tay Atelier (@TayAtelier on Instagram), Redken for Men artist and Y.S. Park Canada brand ambassador. “We’re seeing hair transition from very defined side parts and undercuts to a modern crop with much more texture on the top.”

There’s a big shift in fringes coming, too. “It’s really short now, with a length of about two inches and sitting high on the forehead, definitely above the eyebrows. The inspiration comes from the Caesar haircut, but it’s done in a really modern way.”

“There’s a very fresh look in barbering right now coming from Europe,” says BaBylissPRO educator and freelance barber Sofia Pok (@staygold31 on Instagram). Traditionally, we’re used to seeing more of a square outline for men’s haircuts but now the shape is rounder and not based on cutting structure anymore. “That being said, hair is definitely longer but cleaner on the sides,” adds Pok.

Hybrid Styles

“At the salon where I work in Brampton, Ontario,” says Atelier, “we’re seeing very young, cool high school kids come in and want something drastically different they’re loving on social media that’s reminiscent of the ’80s. Perms are high on their radar and there’s a lot of movement in the hair.”

For Pok, barbering is entering a new phase and merging with more traditional hairstyling. “Yes, there’s still a bit of that old style barbering, but with a new finish and feel. A lot of the modern haircuts are not standard, and hybrid styles are really coming on strong.”

What exactly are “hybrid styles”? The merge between barbering and hairstyling techniques are still making their way in the industry, and barbers should learn how to work and perform better with longer hair, says Atelier. “For instance, if your client isn’t ready to go for a perm, start working with hot tools—say a flat iron or a wand—to create those curls.”

Texturizing is King

Pomade used to be the big thing to finish a traditional barbering hairstyle. But, according to Pok, the trend now is for a puffier haircut, which you can easily achieve with point cutting. “Hair on the forehead is bigger and worn forward. So, to balance all that, you need to create more texture on the top of the head.”

To create these looks, focus on clays, putties and sea salts, as well as curl lotions and products to retain curls while eliminating frizz.

Also fading away are pompadours, particularly for the type of client who wants the latest and boldest hairstyles. “Keep in mind, though, that it always depends on the style of the client you have in your chair. The clean cuts do have staying power for the more classic and traditional man,” explains Atelier. 

The main thing to remember is to make a point of learning something new every year that takes you out of your comfort zone. Taking classes for cutting and styling longer hair may also be prudent as it’s an important time to cater to the very specific desires of a discerning male clientele.

Fading and blending are still super important, says Pok, but the main thing is to understand the use of all the tools you have at your disposal and to practice as much as possible. “For instance, sometimes you don’t need to apply that much pressure on a clipper to get that kick-ass fade, but that’s learned [with much time and experience].”
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This article first appeared on Salon Magazine CA