Haircolor myths: They can twist client understanding and even trip up colorists from time to time. And while the advent of the Internet can be seen as a force for good—it can, after all, help quell client curiosity about hair dye as well as provide infinite inspiration—it can also spew misinformation unchecked. “[Clients’] belief in a myth may create false expectations about their color service leading to dissatisfaction with their results,” warns Joanne Rempel, Eufora color development manager. Your job: Disprove myths delicately. “It’s important to educate clients on the facts, but do so in a professional manner in a way that they’ll understand. Sometimes stylists overcomplicate matters for clients,” explains Amy Spencer, Malibu C artistic team member and educator. Beauty Launchpad asked three top color pros to dismantle dye lies so that you can help spread hair hue truth simply.

Myth #1: Sub-Scalp Bleaching

Your client swears that her previous stylist’s highlights lasted longer than yours because he placed lightener in the hair follicle. “This is definitely untrue. Lightener only works on the exposed hair. Some stylists could definitely get foils closer to the scalp than others, but any highlights are definitely on the outside of the scalp,” Rempel says. Carefully clarify that lightener is unable to penetrate into the hair follicle, and therefore can’t lighten hair developing in the follicle. Rempel advises explaining to clients the benefits of taking smaller sections and a finer weave to allow you to get closer to the scalp area and, if correcting a fellow colorist on this myth, advising her on how she can improve her foil work.

Myth #2: The 24-Hour Post-Color Wash Rule

We’ve all heard it: Don’t wash your hair for 24 hours after a color service. Otherwise, as the tall tale goes, you’ll strip away some of the vibrant color. “The truth is you can wash your hair after the color is processed and it won’t be harmed,” shares Sonya Dove, Wella Professionals global creative artist and Ulta ProTeam member, adding, “Now, shampooing too often can certainly strip the oils from hair, so be aware!” She notes that haircolor technology advancements make this old wives’ tale simply that: a myth worth debunking. “I always suggest clients take home color care products to enhance their color and stop it from eventually fading,” Dove says.

Myth #3: Bleach Drives Direct Dyes Deeper into Hair

This myth has long been held by stylists, but Spencer believes there’s no time like the present to debunk it as it affects proper formulation for corrective color. “Lightener and direct dye have the same charge, so when you use a traditional lightener on direct dye, it has a similar reaction as putting two ends of a magnet together. They repel each other, causing the dye to spread out,” she says. In order to hammer the idea home, she recommends showing colorists how lightener and direct dye work via visuals, like a photo or video.

Myth #4: Haircolor Causes Irrevocable Damage

“Damage is a harsh word,” Spencer says. While she admits haircolor does cause oxidization—and over-oxidization can damage hair—current technologies allow colorists to safely add color, shine and dimension sans harm. To better ensure hair integrity, Spencer suggests proper prep pre-color to help decrease stress on hair, as well as using bond builders to rebuild disulfide bonds during processing. “I like to educate clients on the science behind it without getting too technical,” she says. Spencer also recommends posting before and after visuals of color to show how color services can actually condition, gloss and leave strands stronger as a way to help demystify this myth.

Myth #5: Henna-Colored Hair Can’t Be Lightened

The pros differ on their assessment of this myth, though they do agree that Henna-colored hair can be lightened to some degree. First, have a thorough consultation with your client, asking about frequency of use and whether the Henna includes mineral salts in the formulation. “Not all Henna is created equal,” Rempel warns. She notes that quality and ingredients in Henna formulation differ, and that the mineral salts found in many Henna brands make total removal difficult and, in some cases, impossible. Rempel refuses to remove Henna with mineral salts as the chemical reaction with color or lightener can cause severe damage to hair. “I tell clients the truth as I know it. If they insist on wanting something done, I just say no and tell them to find another stylist,” Dove agrees.

Spencer, on the other hand, has found success removing Henna after prepping the hair with Malibu C Color Disruptor and CPR, and even teaches a class devoted to this subject. However, all pros do concur on this integral step: They insist that Henna removal shouldn’t be attempted without a test strand first. “The telltale signs of mineral salts may be heating of the hair strand, smoking and damage or breakage,” says Rempel. Whatever you decide, make sure to have clients sign a release form in advance, and explain the risk involved with removal.

Myth #6: Haircolor Responds Better to Dry Hair

Wet, damp or dry hair: Which is best for haircolor application? It largely depends on what the manufacturer directions say, Dove concedes. “Each brand varies—even the product lines within a brand vary!” she stresses. Dove offers this example: “At Wella, Color Touch demipermanent needs to be put on clean, damp hair because the dampness helps porosity and how the formula absorbs. Yet for Koleston Perfect, Wella recommends applying on dry hair due to the technology in the formula.” Also consider damp versus wet hair. “There is a big difference between wet and damp hair when it comes to haircolor,” Rempel explains. “Damp hair (70- to 80-percent dry) is fine to color over; however, if there’s significant water in the hair, it will need to be displaced with color to achieve your desired results, and therefore slows down the process. The cuticle layer is generally more closed off when hair is wet.” She notes that as a general rule, direct dyes require application on dry hair for the color to last. The lesson in this myth: When in doubt, check the manufacturer instructions.

Myth #7: Hair Should Be Dirty—Not Clean—Before Coloring

How many times has a client shown up with greasy strands to her color appointment? Don’t blame her; she has definitely fallen victim to the “Don’t wash your hair prior to a haircolor appointment; a little dirt and product helps the process” myth. Wrong! “Not sure this was ever true; however, certainly today, this is an urban myth,” Rempel declares. In order to better maintain hair’s health and integrity, modern haircolor formulas feature lower percentages of alkalizer, which functions to open the hair cuticle, she explains. With less blasting open of the cuticle, anything coating the hair—say, dirt or product buildup—is counterintuitive to the process of absorbing haircolor. Therefore, clean—or ever-so-slightly soiled—hair ensures color can more easily penetrate the hair shaft without having to work through layers of grime and product. So let your clients know: No more greasy strands!

Myth #8: Baking Soda Removes Haircolor

While baking soda can remove color, it doesn’t mean clients should use it. “Baking soda is an abrasive cleanser and can be used on stovetops and countertops, but should not be used on the hair and scalp,” Rempel emphatically clarifies. Spencer reasons that the pH of baking soda is high, so it would likely ruin hair. “At-home remedies scare me,” she sighs, adding, “They haven’t been tested!” Rempel agrees, “We must caution ourselves about believing myths and urban legends about things like baking soda, lemon juice and other at-home remedies as being ‘better’ (i.e. more clean) for the hair. They may be more damaging to the hair because they’re not buffered. Hair-coloring agents, albeit chemical, contain buffering agents that do the job of protecting the hair strand. I like to leave baking soda and vinegar to the homemade volcano science project!”

Any parent with a child whose hair is moderately-to-aggressively tangly will know the struggle that smoothing out that follicular majesty entails. Even the sweetest child can turn into a stomping, hysterical demon hurling the meanest words they know when that brush touches their flowing tresses. It doesn’t have to be quite so bad, though, in most cases.

​What works best for you will, of course, depend on the length, thickness, and texture of your kid’s hair—but here are the best tips we found for making the process easier and less painful for all involved.

Should you wash your hair before coloring it and why would you care about whether your hair is freshly washed before a hair color appointment at all? If you have missed the debate over having your hair clean or dirty for the color service and right after it, you are at the right place to clear things up from the very beginning.

As a hair color specialist, I’ve seen both nightmares and success stories when it comes to color maintenance. Read on to know the ways you can get and keep those beautiful colors you’ve always wanted, straight from the source.

Is It Better to Dye Your Hair Dirty or Clean?

Back in the day, hairstylists would tell their clients that dirty hair was best when it came to hair coloring. Hair color was loaded with tons of ammonia, so it could break through any product buildup or natural oils.
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that is a big, fat LIE. Color companies use new technology in most of their products now. This means that hair color has become gentler on both the hair and scalp, and it may not break through the 3 days’ worth of dry shampoo stuck to your oily roots. Go to the salon with clean, washed hair, or you may be sacrificing gray coverage.

​Having dirty hair during your consultation with your stylist can be confusing for them, as your strands can appear darker than usual. This can further lead to incorrect formulation to get you to your inspiration photo. This means that you are in jeopardy of getting a shade you didn’t ask for.

Prevent these hair nightmares by using a gentle clarifying shampoo followed by a light conditioner the day of (or the night before) your salon appointment. I like Redken’s Detox Hair Cleansing Cream and Redken’s Extreme Conditioner.

Should I Wash My Hair Before Bleaching It?

For those of you that get bright highlights or a blended balayage, dirty hair could mean an inconsistent end result. The oil within your scalp can block the lightener from lifting the hair, and hair that doesn’t lift properly can turn splotchy or orangey (us hairstylists call this “blorange”).

For those of you that get your roots bleached using an on-scalp lightener, you may want to avoid coming with freshly washed hair. Instead, wash your hair at least 24 hours prior to bleaching it. Remember that fun fact about ammonia breaking through hair color? On-scalp lightener is typically full of ammonia. You want your natural oils to protect your scalp so the bleach doesn’t eat away at it, especially if you have a sensitive scalp prone to irritation.

Rather than using a clarifying shampoo the day prior to coloring hair using bleach, I recommend something moisturizing, like Verb’s Hydrating shampoo and conditioner.

Can You Dye Your Hair Wet?

Water can create a barrier on the hair, complicating the color process. Many times, the color will still work, but it can be unpredictable. For this reason, I blow dry my clients prior to coloring when they come in with wet hair for the color service.

Some color companies have created toners and glosses that can go on wet hair, but this is the only exception in my book. If you are dyeing your hair at home, do start with dry clean hair.

Can I Wash My Hair After Dyeing It?

Short answer? NO.

The way that most hair color works is by penetrating the outermost layer of the hair, known as the cuticle, and pushing dye molecules in to react with the pigment in each strand. It takes 72 hours for the cuticle to close completely. Washing your hair prior to that means that color molecules are going to escape your strands and color will fade quickly.

I speak on behalf of all hairdressers when I say this: PLEASE, skip a few regular wash days and wait the three days for long-lasting color.

Tips on Washing Color-Treated Hair

Now that it’s been three days and you’re allowed to wash your hair, I’ll let you in on some of the best ways to maintain it.

1. First things first, use whatever shampoo your colorist recommends. They know your hair best. Their hands are in it. A drugstore shampoo can create buildup, cause hair loss, and cause chemical reactions during the color appointment. I personally recommend color-safe lines, like Redken, Living Proof, or R+Co. Every shampoo by any of those companies is safe for color-treated hair. Most of these have UV protection technology in it to help protect your color from the sun. This is major!
2. Wash one to three times a week in lukewarm water. Hot water will open the cuticle of the hair and help your color pour out of it! As a result, you might need to schedule a new color service sooner than expected.
3. If you are a brunette going blonde, you might consider using a blue shampoo to remove orange tones. For a blonde that is trying to stay bright, I recommend a purple shampoo or a violet-toned mask. Do not use either of these products more than once a week: over-toning your hair can complicate the coloring process in the future. Overusing these toning shampoos can also cause dryness in the ends of the hair.

 
I will add a bonus hot tip here: consider purchasing a shower head filter to remove hard water and other impurities from your water. Your water can be causing dry scalp, brassiness, and brittle hair.

Sea salt spray is your beach hair in a bottle. Think about how your hair feels with the salt water, wind, and a day at the beach; a sea salt spray will help recreate that feel and look – unfortunately, minus the beach trip.

Sea salt adds texture and volume with a gritty matte finish to all hair lengths. Learn how to use this simple magic to pull off a slightly messy look that is all the rage now!

First, What Is a Sea Salt Spray?

Contrary to what you might have assumed, the spray contains not just some sea salt diluted in water, even though this is indeed the key component. Most brands enrich the mixture with nourishing oils and proteins that makes it safe to use on all hair types. For example, coconut oil and aloe vera are popular components.
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A sea salt spray gives hair a scrunchy feel and qualifies as a texturizing product, which makes it excellent for giving texture to soft straight hair and enhancing natural waves. You should be extra careful when using it in coarse hair, as large-diameter strands feel quite wiry on their own and need smoothing rather than texturizing.

How to Use Sea Salt Spray

It is best to apply sea salt spray on damp hair. Always remember to shake the bottle before using the spray as ingredients may settle over time. When looking to create movement on straight hair or enhance your natural wave, apply sea salt spray to roots and a mid-length area, twist sections and/or scrunch your hair, and let it air dry. The smaller the sections you twist and scrunch, the wavier your hair will be.

It is ok to use sea salt spray on dry hair – it will add texture to your existing style. However, when working with hair that is dehydrated, apply a leave-in conditioner before adding the sea salt spray to achieve the desired look. The leave-in conditioner will help keep hair moisturized and looking its best.

5 Best Sea Salt Sprays to Try

The newest beach wave hair products contain super-moisturizing and nourishing ingredients, lightweight formulas and tempting extra features, so you’re sure to find a perfect texturizer for your needs and wants. My all-time favorite salt sprays are from the Bumble and Bumble family, but there are a few more definitely worth your attention:

B&B Surf Spray – the best sea salt spray from the OG of the surf line. Free from harsh parabens and sulfates, Bumble and Bumble’s Surf Spray is a leading beach hair spray, constantly flying off the shelves of every supplying retailer. This little 4-ounce bottle includes all of the ingredients needed to create matte volume, fullness, and just-got-home-from-Cabo waves. Even when summertime has ended, this salt-infused formula can create surf spray hair and waves.

B&B Surf Infusion – the best option for thick coarse hair. Remember me saying the salt spray it’s for coarse hair? Well, B&B Surf Infusion is, as it is designed specifically for this hair type and helps to get moisture back into the strands. It adds a splendid shine and definition, too.
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B&B Surf Foam Spray – the best sea salt spray for adding volume. This part mousse part salt spray allows getting the most lift and volume in fine to medium hair for a big, beachy texture of the locks. At the same time, the blend is infused with coconut water to protect the health of the fine strands and prevent split ends.

Oliology Coconut Oil Beach Wave Sea Salt Mist – the best sea salt spray for fine hair. This is another spray that is great for adding grit and texture, but it creates a softer finish so that the locks do not have a crunchy feel that not all of you may like. In addition to styling your locks, the spray can actually make your hair stronger due to the bamboo extract it contains.
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Not Your Mother’s Beach Babe Texturizing Sea Salt Spray -the best sea salt spray with anti-frizz effect. If you have frizzy, hard-to-handle hair, the aloe leaf in this spray will moisturize hair while the sea salt adds texture. Aloe extracts will also protect hair against dryness while soothing and healing damage from sun exposure and help keep the scalp healthy.

How to Prepare Your Own Salt Water Spray

If you’re in for DIY hair products, you can easily prepare your own sea salt spray, too. Here is what you need:

• a spray bottle;
• 1 or 1½ cups of warm water;
• 1 teaspoon of sea salt;
• 1 tablespoon of coconut oil or avocado oil;
• (optional) 4 drops of an essential oil for scent (lavender or tangerine are my favorites).

Add all ingredients to the spray bottle and shake well to mix. Always remember to shake well before each use!

Can I Use Sea Salt Spray Every Day?

It’s true when they say, “too much of a good thing…” Overuse of sea salt spray can make the hair feel dry and brittle, so it’s not recommended to use it every day. The salt in the product removes moisture from the hair, which adds volume and texture, but leaves hair dehydrated. If you use the spray quite often, be sure to use a good moisturizing conditioner or invest in a weekly deep conditioner.
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Don’t be afraid to give sea salt spray a try; pick one up, or make your own, and you will be happy you did!