In 2023, people are embracing their personal style and expressing fearlessness. Here's how to do it. It’s never too late to have a truly fabulous haircut. Yes, hair changes as we age, and you may not have the same thick and healthy tresses you sported when you were 18. But that’s no reason to resort to what some stylists call a “granny haircut.” In the old days, it meant a tight perm and a blue rinse. Now, it refers to any wash-and-wear, low-maintenance cut. But there are endless options to keep things fresh and lively, so there’s no need to resort to a full-on granny style (unless you absolutely want to). Hairstylists point to older style icons as inspiration. “I always think of the women of Advanced Style on Instagram and how cool their hair always looks with their outfits,” said hair designer Luisa Popović. (If you haven’t followed it yet, it’s a project of photographer Ari Seth Cohen that’s dedicated “to capturing the sartorial savvy of the senior set.”) Other stellar examples, she said, include Vivenne Westwood, who died in 2022, and who was famed for her signature bright orange hair. She also cited the “powerful looks” of Michèle Lamy, the raven-haired 79-year-old French fashion designer. “It all just emanates fearlessness,” Popović said. Tempted? Talk to a stylist. If you’re ready for a refresh, redo or bold new direction, stylists have lots of fresh ideas that can make you feel at the top of your style game, no concessions to age required. “A big haircut can really change up the energy in your life,” said stylist Nikki Providence. “If things feel stagnant, sometimes a haircut can shake everything loose.” “When we’re changing our hairstyle, our age doesn’t have to decide whether we go for long or short hair,” said stylist Mahogany Grace. “The health of hair matters a lot in choosing a new style. Try chatting with a couple of professionals to get ideas on how to style it based on its current condition.” “I think personal preference should guide a client’s choices,” she said. “If a client is 20 or 80 and they love a bob, long hair or a pixie, they should wear one. As a stylist, my job is to make each cut unique by bringing a client’s individual features and beauty.’ How to choose the cut you want How to decide which cut to choose? “There’s such a wide range of styles, cuts, colors available, now more than ever,” Popović said. “Spend some time looking online, or at magazines and books, to get inspired, and experiment in baby steps if you’re a little nervous to branch out from your usual.” In terms of those “baby steps,” Grace suggested that it might be a good idea to “reshape your current cut, maybe by adding softer layers around the face” as a good beginning. Stylist Sonna Brado said, “One of the main questions I get from consumers on my Instagram feed is, ‘How do I find someone to look at my face shape and design something for me? I’m 50-something and feeling frumpy.’ Her advice for clients is to follow their own gut feelings, and to find a stylist who can interpret those feelings into a terrific haircut. Stylist Akihisa Yamaguchi believes there’s a great cut out there, just waiting for you. “I definitely think that it’s possible to get your desired volume, texture and have fuller looks, while avoiding something that feels like an ‘old lady style,’‘’ she said. “I love medium-length bobs that instantly give you full volume hair and a nice saddle face frame layer that works nicely for the face.” If you want to cut things short, there are smart ways to go about it, the stylists said. “If your hair has lost ‘presence,’ meaning it’s thin or wispy, a shorter or blunter cut will likely help it to look stronger and more solid,” Providence advised. “A bob can be sleek or soft, but the idea is for it to look intentional.” Popović agreed, and suggested that pleasing yourself is most important: “The bob seems to be getting a lot of slack these days, but I’ll always love a good, sharp bob. It can be so chic. I ultimately think clients should go with styles that make them feel good, makes their hair look as healthy as possible and are maintainable with their daily routines. There’s no cookie-cutter style that works across the board for older clients.” Consider adding some volume with hairpieces. If your hair has been thinning, you might want to boost the volume of your existing cut with some artificial options. “I’m a huge user of hair extensions and hairpieces,” said stylist and creative director Paul Labrecque, who noted that Halo Couture is a favorite brand. Ditto from Popović: “I absolutely love wigs for switching up a look and having tons of versatility without a big commitment,” she said. Labrecque uses tape-ins to fill in where hair has thinned. “It’s great for an A-line bob, to get that sharp point in the front,” he said. “If a woman has crown thinning, I use top pieces, which can be very small and made custom to cover crown splits and recessions.” There are some things to watch out for with extensions, however. “I shy away from poor-quality hair, or hair that’s overly short or long. The most flattering styles to me on older, duller hair sit under the chin and extend no longer than two inches from the collarbone.” While thinning can be a problem for everyone, those who rely on relaxers may experience it more. “If you’ve relaxed your hair for a lifetime, you’re much more prone to hair recession,” Labrecque said. “Plus, weaves and extensions, over time, can hinder hair thickness.” He suggested “a fall, like Halo’s Hybrid Fall, can help. Halo’s version is attached with a thin fishing string, and it can reduce hair stress.” Your styling routine needs an update, too. How you take care of your hair after that great cut can also be secretly aging you. “When it’s overstyled, especially with too much hair spray or teased hair, that can be very ‘old lady’ style,” Yamaguchi said. Providence agreed, saying that it’s OK to be a little low-key: “Let go of high-maintenance styles, and feel free to cut it short or pull it back. Pixie cuts were so cool in the ’90s, work on almost any texture, and can be fun and youthful all over again. I like when there’s a little softness to the edges. Let go of perfectionism, because it’s just holding you back.” And whatever you do, remember that you’re allowed to have fun. “In this time, in this culture, it can be scary to age publicly, or even to evolve,” Providence said. “But I see openly aging as the ultimate show of confidence and independence. The world is more open than ever to all textures and types of hair. It’s a golden age for individualism, if you can see through the standard bland, ultra-polished styles on Instagram. Out there in real life, people are embracing wigs, creative color, locs, braids, twists and natural textures, opening the door to looking however they want.” from HuffPost
10/4/2023 A Guide to Hair Salon EtiquetteA neat haircut has the power to transform the way you look! As a woman who has to visit the beauty salon every 8 to 10 weeks because her layers grow faster than she wants, there are a few things that I have learned and taught myself over time about salon etiquette. They have always saved me from the agony of leaving a salon with a sad face and a bad haircut. Be specific Decide before going to the beauty salon what you want. I have learnt from my personal experience that hairdressers want you to be as specific as you can about your needs and wants, be it a cut or colour. "I don't want my hair to be too short" is too vague for anyone, including hairdressers. Your definition of 'too short' may be different from your hairstylist's definition of 'too short.' Therefore, be specific. Consider saying something like "Take an inch off the length." A bad haircut can jeopardise your mental peace. Therefore, it is very important to give specific instructions to your hairdresser. No hairstylist wants to watch a client leave the salon with an unhappy face. When you are unsure Not everyone knows what haircut we want or will look good on us. If you are one of them, save pictures of some haircuts that you like and show them to your hairdresser. Chelsea Federer, a hair and colour specialist at Fabrizio Salon & Urban Retreat Spa, an upscale beauty establishment located in Wilmington, Delaware, said, "Visual references always help, especially when clients cannot be specific about the kind of cut and colour they want." "Pictures or even parts and pieces of pictures can help your hairdresser understand what kind of look you are trying to achieve and whether it is possible to achieve that look in one visit," she added. Everyone's hair is different, however. Not all cuts and colours you like on Instagram may be suitable for your hair. Save photos for your hairdresser nevertheless, because 'a picture is worth a thousand words!' Go to the same hairdresser Once you have liked a hairdresser's work, go to him/her all the time. People, who are particular about their haircuts, always do this. Going to the same person every time means that you need to give fewer instructions; your hairdresser already knows what you want. Make an appointment, though. Do not just walk into the beauty salon hoping to find your favourite hairdresser sitting idle! Have plenty of patience A particular cut and/or colour may not always be achieved in one visit. Therefore, do not show impatience as stylists work on your hair; you could be stressing them out. Also, visit a beauty salon with plenty of time on your hands. A client-in-a-hurry is a stressor for stylists and colourists. Even after holding patience, you may not always see the look you desired for, especially hair colour. Why?
"There are times when a client's colour and hair treatment history, diet, and medications affect her hair's receptivity to colour, making it difficult or unfeasible to achieve the desired outcome," Chelsea Federer said. "In complex cases, additional treatments and multiple visits are needed," she added. To achieve your desired cut and colour combo, you may even need to wait weeks. However, the wait is absolutely worth it because, in the end, a good haircut and colour will dramatically improve your appearance. Therefore, do not get angry or grow impatient, if you do not see the look you wished for in one salon visit. Tip your hairdresser I have always tipped my hairdressers, be it in Dhaka or Delaware. Tipping is a kind gesture that is always appreciated. Here in the US, the standard percentage of tipping a hairdresser is 15 to 20 per cent of the final bill. Our hair is the only crown we wear every day. To ensure that the crown fits us right, going to a hair salon is a must. However, as a client, just going to a hair salon is not enough, practicing good etiquette and having realistic expectations are also necessary for an overall good cut and/or colour experience. I've been sharing about the benefits of silk pillowcases for almost a decade now. The benefits are not just for you curlies. Check out this article for some favorite choices. My Favorite Hair Care Tool Is a Silk Pillowcase * includes paid product placements, endorsements, or sponsorships My hair didn’t know peace until my partner bought me a set of LilySilk pillowcases for Christmas a few years back. Before receiving this thoughtful gift, I slept exclusively on cotton pillowcases, not knowing that smooth-seeming cotton fabric was, at a microscopic level, the equivalent of sandpaper rubbing against my curls and coils all night (or nap) long. I’d always wake up to frizzy hair, with long tendrils sticking up and out. Somehow I’d missed the lesson other young Black girls received on wrapping our hair at night in silk scarves or bonnets to protect our ends from rubbing against the sheets and breaking off. But when the silk pillowcases slipped into my life, my hair problems were solved. I’d wake up with noticeably less frizz, fewer tangles, and drastically reduced bed head. No more bad hair days, which meant notably better days overall. Although I loved the pillowcases my partner gave me, I wondered how they stacked up to the mountain of other silk cases sold everywhere from Amazon to boutique retailers. In true Wirecutter fashion, I dug in to find out what makes a great silk pillowcase—and whether there’s really a difference between a $90 case and one that costs a fraction of that. Though the origins of silk production are not entirely clear, Chinese legends have it that 5,000 years ago an empress named Si-ling-chi learned how to raise silkworms, reel their silk, and spin it into cloth for garments. Since then, the shimmering gossamer has been used in everything from clothing to furniture to linens, including the soft fabric that Black women have a very, very long history of using to protect our hair. Wearing caps or bonnets at night has been a cultural tradition for at least several decades. Like most Black history, this tradition isn’t well documented, yet it’s a ubiquitous part of our past and present. Even for someone like me, who wasn’t taught to wrap my hair at night, it became increasingly obvious that my curls—which tended to be dry and split by morning—were suffering for it. This happens because certain types of hair—especially any kind of textured hair, including coily, kinky, curly, or wavy hair—have a harder time retaining moisture. Everyone’s scalp produces a natural, waxy oil called sebum, but for people with textured or even long hair, sebum has a harder time coating the hair shaft from root to tip, resulting in dryness or split ends. Silk’s smooth structure absorbs less moisture from the skin and hair, which is why silk pillowcases have more recently been embraced as part of many peoples’ skin-care regimens (something we’ve previously written about). If you’ve shopped for silk pillowcases, you know the prices are all over the map—some are relatively cheap, while others cost upwards of $100. I wanted to find out what you get when you pay more and less. I narrowed my search to cases with three qualities:
With that in mind, I tested seven pillowcases: the Fishers Finery, J Jimoo, LilySilk, MYK Silk, Ravmix, Olesilk, and Slip. LilySilk ($69 at the time of publication) After I slept on seven different pillowcases over the course of a week, my partner was happy to know that the one I found myself continually gravitating toward was the LilySilk 25mm 6A pillowcase he originally gave me. This pillowcase is lustrous and weighty right out of the box. Maybe I liked it so much because I was already accustomed to using it. But what really sealed the deal for me was its condition after the first wash: It assumed an almost matte finish that made it less slippery and more comfortable to sleep on. Most importantly, I wake up each morning with corkscrew curls that feel healthier, more hydrated, and unburdened by frizz. (Though I’ve made multiple orders and have not experienced any problems, some people have been disappointed by LilySilk’s customer service.) Slip ($89 at the time of publication) Even though it has a lower momme count, the 22mm Slip pillowcase is just as thick as the LilySilk. Also made with 6A Mulberry silk, this pillowcase has a satin sheen that didn’t budge, even after its first time being hand-washed. But the pillowcase had a slippery quality that made my head slide off to the side, which meant I had to constantly readjust in the middle of the night. The Slip was also prone to sliding around on the bed, and after a few weeks of use, it looked more wrinkled than the LilySilk. Some may prefer this pillowcase to the LilySilk because of its super-silky features, but personally I didn’t like waking up with my head on the cotton sheets—and neither did my curls. Fishers Finery ($51 at the time of publication) The Fishers Finery pillowcase, also 25mm 6A Mulberry silk, strikes a good balance between price and quality. Though it’s not as soft as the Slip or the LilySilk, this pillowcase still feels luxurious. It’s heavy and not too slick (it’s not as slippery as the Slip), and it kept my hair smooth and frizz-less by the morning. It’s still pricey by cotton-pillowcase standards, but this one is the best I found for around $50 (and it’s leagues ahead of cheaper cases). Despite ranging from 19mm to 22mm, the other pillowcases we tried—the J Jimoo, Olesilk, MYK Silk, and Ravmix—were all nearly identical to the touch. These pillowcases, which range between $21 and $30, were soft, but they lacked the weighty quality of their more-expensive counterparts. And they felt more like a raw, unfinished silk than smooth and satiny. The thin material of these pillowcases speaks loudly to the difference in quality. However, if you’re on a budget and simply looking for something soft enough to reduce friction for your hair, any of these options would be an upgrade from a traditional cotton pillowcase. A frustrating reality of silk pillowcases in particular is that most of them are sold individually, not in sets of two. Because this is such a high upfront expense, maintaining your pillowcases will become just as important as choosing the right ones for you. Silk was initially intended for royalty, and in modern times, it still costs more to fully enjoy its luxury. So far, the benefits outweigh the cost for me, and I think my hair, with its healthy sheen, would agree. from NYT Wirecutter
9/14/2023 8 tips to make hair color last longerDue to the hype surrounding the Barbie film (#barbiecore), not only blonde is trending, but also Barbie pink on heads. So the hair color stays beautiful for a long time. With every color service in the salon, a hairdresser should discuss the care of the hair color with their customer. Especially with these fuschia and neon pink tones, which can fade quickly, customers should pay attention to color care. Andrew Smith, Proprietor of Andrew Smith Salons and Milkshake Global Ambassador, knows how hair color lasts longer. In the following, he reveals his tips, which he gives to his customers. 8 tips to make hair color last longer: 1. Use color shampoo and conditioner Look for products specifically designed for color-treated hair. Avoid shampoos that can attack color and opt for gentle ones, 2. Wash your hair less often Frequent washing can cause the color to fade faster. Try increasing the time between washes to maintain the vibrancy of the hair color. When washing your hair, you should use lukewarm water as hot water can leach the colour. 3. Use cold water for rinsing After shampooing and conditioner, rinse the hair with cold water. Cold water helps seal the cuticle of the hair, preserving color and adding shine. 4. Avoid heat styling devices when possible Excessive heat can bleach hair color, so you should minimize the use of heat styling devices such as flat irons, curling irons and blow dryers. If you want to use heat, you should apply a heat protectant spray beforehand. 5. Protect hair from the sun Prolonged stay in the sun can fade hair color. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection if you are going to be in the sun for a long time. 6. Use Color Refreshing Products Maintain color vibrancy by using Color Refreshing Products (Direktzieher) such as shampoos, conditioners or hair masks specially formulated for the care of colored hair. These products help refresh the color between visits to the hairdresser. 7. Avoid chlorine whenever possible Chlorine in swimming pools can cause the color to fade or even change. To protect the (pink) hair, you should wet it with clear water before swimming and wear a swimming cap. After swimming, rinse hair thoroughly and use a clarifying shampoo to remove any chlorine residue. 8. Schedule regular touch-ups Colored hair needs maintenance to keep it looking fresh. Schedule regular touch-ups at the stylist to keep color vibrant and avoid visible roots. To be clear, the longevity of your (pink) hair color depends on various factors, including the condition of your hair and how well you care for it. from TopHair.de (you may need to translate this site)
Bryant estimated the cost of professional men’s hair coloring in Manhattan to be $50 to $100. For de Blasio, it was almost certainly a good deal less. Written by Frank Rojas A change in hair color can be emblematic of a shift in someone’s personal life, a fresh start or an attempt to hit pause on the aging process. Depending on the person, it may be a significant change that lasts for a while — or just till the next haircut. For many men, it can feel like a chance to strut out a new look, or to signify that they are back on the market. That may have been a consideration for Bill de Blasio, the former New York City mayor: After 30 years of marriage, he and his wife, Chirlane McCray, revealed this week that they were separating. (The couple said they did not intend to divorce and would continue to live together for the time being.) One of the major takeaways for readers who remembered his grayer days in Gracie Mansion, however, was de Blasio’s considerably darker hair. “I never anticipated ever doing anything with hair color,” he said in the interview. “But I like feeling what I feel.” We spoke with hairstylist and colorists about what men should know before going under the dye bottle. First, be sure you want to ditch the gray. Garrett Bryant, founder of the Hawthorne hair salon in Manhattan, said he typically tried to talk his clients out of coloring their gray hair. “I will admit that I am a big opponent of gray coverage,” he said. “It’s not that I have a daddy complex or anything, I just think that gray hair can be beautiful.” Hair color for men can be tricky because their hair is often shorter than women’s, meaning less length in which a colorist can blend colors for a more natural look. You want to avoid any abrupt shifts in color. “If you go too dark to try to completely cover the gray, you’re going to get very flat results; it’s going look all completely one color,” Bryant said. “That’s when it’s going to not look natural on you.” Add a little pepper to your salt. For first timers, it’s best to start small by camouflaging gray hair, rather than completely covering it. Blending allows for a more subtle and natural look. Hannah Parsley, a men’s cut and color specialist at Takamichi Hair in lower Manhattan, said she preferred to start off as minimal as possible when coloring her clients’ hair to avoid that “line of demarcation when their hair grows out.” “You won’t get 100% coverage with blending,” she added, “but it’s a great way to kind of baby step into starting to color your hair and having it naturally get a little darker every time.” Don’t just Google, consult a professional. In the age of DIY, it may seem simple to do a quick Google search or open up TikTok for references. Resist the temptation: It’s usually worthwhile to seek out a professional. Garren, a hairstylist and co-founder of the hair-product line R+Co., recommends getting into specifics with your hair colorist before a single drop of dye is applied. “It’s about figuring out the hairstyle you’re going to wear with it,” he said. “Like, if you’re going to color your hair, what’s your haircut going to look like? What’s your style? You have to have a conversation with your hair cutter, your colorist, and come to some agreement on what you’re going to feel comfortable with in your own skin.” Bryant estimated the cost of professional men’s hair coloring in Manhattan to be $50 to $100. For de Blasio, it was almost certainly a good deal less. Alberto Amore of Astor Place Hairstylists has been the former mayor’s barber since de Blasio was a freshman at NYU, according to his bio. Although he declined to speak specifically about de Blasio as a customer, Amore said on Thursday that he typically charged $20 for a dye job. Be careful not to go too dark with box dye. Neutral and ash colors tend to be the best route when coloring your own hair. You should also not go strictly based on the shades advertised on the box. “The rule of thumb is that those colors tend to be one to two shades darker,” said Rita Hazan, the owner of a namesake salon on the Upper East Side. “So if you think your hair is dark brown, I would go with, like, medium brown. If you think your hair is medium brown, go to light brown.” Going too dark can give you a regrettable shoe-polish look. “I find that a lot of guys start doing it over the counter, and all of a sudden, they get themselves where it starts looking inky or too brassy,” Hazan said. “It overlays and absorbs and then it overlays and overlays to where it gets way too dark, and all of a sudden you see the roots growing out really quickly.” Keep up the upkeep. Maintenance is what will ultimately determine how long your hair color lasts. Bryant advises going to the salon every four to six weeks, but coloring can have a longer life if it’s well taken care of. Several hairstylists recommended Redken and Paul Mitchell products, adding that sulfate-free products could help avoid damaging hair color. from IndianExpress
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