What it is: The physical damage we personally inflict on our hair every day.
How it happens: When hair is wet – its most fragile state – every pass of your fingers, comb, or brush can cause breakage and damage to the hydrogen bonds that comprise each strand. In the dry-hair phase, strands become brittle, so that tugging, teasing, pulling, ponytailing, and extension-wearing only adds to the broken bonds.
​The clues: The ends of your hair are uneven and sparse.

What it is: Brittleness, dehydration, breakage, and fading caused by UV sun exposure, pollution, and even pool/ocean water.
How it happens: In the same way that unprotected skin is susceptible to damage from the harsh rays of the sun or pollution particles, vulnerable hair is equally at risk and loses its protective proteins.
The clues: Environmental damage is felt before it’s actually visible to the eye. Strands will feel brittle, dull, and prone to dehydration and breakage. As you run fingers through hair, you’ll notice roughness and snagging.

What it is: Damage to the structure of the hair caused by aggressive salon services, like high-lift blonding, frequent color changes, straightening, and waves.
How it happens: Chemicals deplete and strip hair of its natural protection without replenishing those critical properties that deliver softness and shine.
The clues: You’ve been to the salon for a chemical service, and now your hair feels fragile and susceptible to breakage when wet; and it’s parched, frizzy, and rough when dry.

What it is: In a nutshell, thermal means heat…and along with it, damage caused by high-temperature/too-frequent exposure to blow-dryers, curling and flat-irons, and wands.
How it happens: In the same way you burn your finger if you keep it too close to the candle flame, hair is highly susceptible to the havoc of heat.
The clues: Hair feels crispy…it bends like paper rather than cloth; breaking rather than flowing. And split ends begin to form, traveling right up the hair shaft (and leading you to a serious haircut).

I’m sure you’ve done a fair share of internet searches on what type of hair you have and what types of products you should use, based on your hair type—but did anyone ever tell you what products or ingredients to stay away from? I know it can be annoying to have to read through the ingredients list plastered on the back of the bottle in such teeny tiny print, but if you can just scan for these ingredients, you will save time and your hair will thank you.

Curly Hair:
Alcohol + Mineral oil/ Petroleum 
What differentiates your hair from being naturally curly or straight is the shape of your hair follicle. Typically, a curved follicle is what creates curly hair as opposed to round follicles, which are found in people who have straight hair. Curly hair types are prone to being very dry because it’s harder for natural oils to travel down the hair for hydration. So when looking for products for your curly hair, stay away from alcohol which will strip your hair from that extra moisture you need. Another sneaky ingredient to stay away from is mineral oil or petroleum. These two can be deceiving because you think this will seal your hair with moisture, but it is quite the opposite. Mineral oil and petroleum will actually block any moisture from being absorbed into your hair. So don’t be fooled!

Fine hair:
Oil + Sulfates
People who have fine hair have lower hair density which means they have a lower count of hairs on their head per square inch, compared to people with normal or thick hair. The average amount of hairs on a human head is 2,220 hairs per square inch and anyone with more than that is considered to have thicker hair. For fine haired people, this means that you hair is more susceptible to getting oily faster because your scalp naturally produces oils to keep your skin and hair moisturized and since there are less hairs on your head, there is more oil that is being distributed to each strand on your head.

So, with all this talk of oil, the main ingredient you want to avoid is, of course, oil. Applying products to your hair with lots of oil will only seal in the oils that are being produced on your head which will weigh down your hair and make it appear flat and just plain greasy. One more ingredient fine haired people should avoid are sulfates. Sulfates help get your hair clean, but it mostly strips your hair of strengthening proteins and can slow down and even stop the growth of your hair. With already less hair on your head, the last thing you’d want is your hair to stop growing! 

Chemically treated hair:
Diethanolamine (DEA) + sodium chloride 
If your hair is chemically treated, there is already a lot more damage that is done to your hair as well as your scalp. Your hair is basically stripped of all of its nutrients and proteins which means you need to be more conscious of what ingredients are in your products because as you know, there are lots of ingredients out there that help “get the job done,” but can cause more damage to your hair and scalp with prolonged use.

Diethanolamine (DEA) and sodium chloride are two of the main ingredients you should avoid. The ingredient DEA is used mostly in shampoos to create the foaming suds when you lather your hair in the shower. It is also found in brake fluid and antifreeze—yikes! If you have sensitive skin, DEA can also cause scalp irritation. The other ingredient to stay away from is sodium chloride; better known as salt. It strips away moisture that your hair desperately needs each time you go to the salon for a color touch up. Sodium chloride can leave your scalp feeling itchy and dry which can lead to irritation, flakiness and also promote hair loss. Your hair is already put through so much when you decide to treat it chemically, so it’s important to pay close attention to your aftercare! 

This article is from Mane Addicts

The skin-care trend has reached its peak. Starting from the minimalist step to the 10-step skin-care routine. But don’t you think something is still missing? Yes, it is hair and scalp care! Caring for our scalp and hair are just as important as it is for our skin. Their fundamental steps are pretty much the same. Whether you’re looking for a basic routine or something extra, we got you covered!

The Basic Routine

Caring for your hair is not as hard as you think, and your hair is just as important as taking good care of our facial skin. Cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting. The exact same steps as your regular skin-care routine!

1. Cleanse
2. Moisturize
3. Protect

#1. Cleanse:
ShampooJust like you have to wash your face, your scalp needs to be washed to remove the oil, debris and dirt. Did you know that you can use skin-inspired ingredients in your shampoo? Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (to keep your scalp moisturized), niacinamide (control sebum production) and nourish scalp (ceramides, to keep the scalp barrier healthy), and many more. Moreover, there are specific ingredients for each different scalp type.

• If you have a sensitive scalp (prone to irritation, flakiness and itchiness) choose a shampoo with calming ingredients such as oat, chamomile or niacinamide. Try to avoid fragrances and colorants in shampoo to prevent more irritation.
• For an oily scalp, ingredients such as tea tree, niacinamide or clay will help to absorb the excess oil and will control your scalp’s oil production. This will keep your hair on point for longer days without that greasy hair ruining your day. Good hair day is just a wash away!
• If you have a dry and flaky scalp, look for ingredients that are hydrating, moisturizing and repairing. Ingredients such as piroctone olamine, aloe vera and hyaluronic acid are your scalp’s best friend!

#2. Moisture:
Conditioner and Hair OilJust as washing your face takes moisture out of your skin, so does washing your scalp and hair. Therefore, it is important to moisturize them to prevent more water loss. Both water and oil balance are crucial because water can loosen up the cuticle protection from our hair, making each strand of hair more prone to damage and brittleness. But, at the same time, your hair requires a certain amount of moisture to be able to protect itself. This is when an occlusive oil can maintain our healthy crown.

After water loosens up the cuticle protection from our hair, a conditioner will seal that back in and make your hair smoother and shinier in no time. It will prevent future split ends, breakage and will further strengthen your hair strands. Use the conditioner right after shampooing.

If it’s not enough, and your hair still needs that extra shine and moisture, add a pump or spray your favorite hair oil! They usually smell amazing, as well, so it’s like catching two birds with one stone.

#3. Protect:
SPF for Your HairSun protection for your scalp is just as important as it is for your skin. It prevents UV radiation damage and free radicals’ formation. Do you know that your scalp and hair undergo “aging”, as well, as we age? UV damage is one of the factors for thinning of the hair as well as grey hair. That’s why protecting your hair with SPF is the secret to full, healthy and youthful-looking hair.

Oil-Free, lightweight spray sunscreen is the easiest and most convenient option to protect our hair from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Apply a generous amount to your scalp and hair before heading outside, especially if you head out during the middle of the day.

When You’re Feeling Extra

When you have a Korean 10-step routine for your face, why not for your hair? This is especially great when you are in a pampering mood, and you want your scalp and hair to join the party. Give your crown the love that it deserves.

1. Exfoliator
2. Tonic / Serum
3. Mask

#1: Exfoliator (Hair Scrub)
Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin-cell buildup on the top layer of your skin. Exfoliate your scalp one to three times a week with either physical (salt, sugar or coffee scrub) or chemical exfoliators (Glycolic acid, salicylic acid) to reveal new and fresh skin. Wave goodbye to flaky hair!

#2: Hair Tonic and Serum
It can do more than just boosting hydration levels on your scalp with their skin-benefiting ingredients. If you want to prevent or even care for hair loss, you might want to give hair tonic-serum that is infused with hair-strand strengthening ingredients. Growth factors, biotin, peptides, and vitamins can help nourish your scalp and strengthen them from down the root. Massage the product in while applying to improve absorption while improving blood circulation around the scalp.

#3: Hair Mask
Long bath and hair mask. What can be better? Either the cream hair mask or hair pack, all of them are nourished with hair-nourishing and moisturizing ingredients. They are perfect for an additional weekend self-care ritual. Your hair will definitely thank you for that and shine like it never did before.

Slather the mask all over your hair down to the tips and cover it all with a hair cap for 20-30 minutes before rinsing off your hair.

For those who like it simple without getting your hands messy, you can get and invest on a prepacked hair mask. It usually comes in one individual hair cap covered in a hair mask; it can be a travel-friendly option for those of you who travel a lot.

Hair is the crown for every man and woman, and well-cared-for hair and a healthy crown will definitely boost your confidence and performance.


This article is from The Right Hairstyles

Jim Markham, founder and CEO of ColorProof Color Care Authority, notes that, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, 40 percent of American women will experience thinning hair at some point in their lives. But the causes—and therefore prevention and treatment techniques—can vary greatly. Here, we check in with leading haircare, lash and brow experts to determine how beauty pros can best proceed when faced with clients who crave a dose of added fullness.

Root Causes
Heather Ka’anoi, artistic director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, notes that aging, stress, hormonal imbalance, excessive styling, inadequate nutrition, pregnancy, an unhealthy scalp, heredity, breakage, dramatic weight loss, hypothyroidism, or an iron deficiency can cause hair loss. To identify the range of causes, Syrenthia Quinones, brand education manager for Nioxin, sums them up in six general categories.

Genetics: A family predisposition to thinning hair involves natural, age- related hormonal changes caused by the conversion of testosterone into the toxin dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which can be inherited from a mother or father.

Stress and Trauma: Stress can produce increased levels of testosterone, which converts to DHT, interrupting the hair growth cycle. Stress also constricts the blood supply through the capillaries, restricting oxygen, nutrient uptake and vitamins to the follicle.

Health: Underlying issues may include a malfunction of the hormone- producing thyroid or the natural changes women experience after pregnancy and menopause.

Environmental: Air and water pollutants, chlorine, metals, and minerals left in the hair and on the scalp—as well as pseudo-estrogens and toxins from within our bodies—can contribute to thinning.

Medication: Hair follicles are extremely sensitive to changes in the body—e.g. hormonal therapies like birth control, steroids, specific chemotherapies, and medications for blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease, or acne.

Nutrition and Diet: High consumption of animal fats, rapid weight loss and liquid protein diets can result in a lack of amino acids, biotin, iron, protein, and zinc—all essential for healthy-looking hair.

With these main culprits in mind, experts can break down how each affects the hair. Amir Yazdan M.D., founder of GroMD, explains that hormonal concerns, generally caused by elevated levels of DHT or menopause, create an imbalance of estrogen and progesterone, while conditions like polycystic ovarian syndrome (which can increase testosterone levels) or a thyroid imbalance may be to blame. April Cox, national trainer for Eufora, adds that everyone has testosterone in their bodies, as well as the enzyme 5-alpha reductase—but when testosterone and 5-alpha reductase couple together, that forms DHT, creating havoc on scalps, thinning the hair bulb and, in turn, creating thin hair and lock loss.

​Markham remarks that at various times of life, the capability of hair follicle stem cells decreases, inhibiting the ability to regenerate the cells responsible for new growth. Rising levels of DHT cause follicles to shrink and produce thin, atrophied hair (and eventually stop producing new hair altogether). Stem cells, which contain the chemical messengers responsible for hair production, increasingly fail as we age, and the follicle is unable to generate a new, healthy growth phase—resulting in aging scalp tissue, thinning hair and graying. “There’s also poor microcirculation and buildup. A poor blood supply results in sluggish cell turnover, leading to the buildup of sebum and dead skin cells that plug the follicle, preventing hair growth,” Markham notes. “Finally, there’s the failure of new growth to anchor: As tissue repair mechanisms fail, the new, weakened hair is unable to anchor properly and begins to fall out.”

To complicate matters further, Michelle Blaisure, product development director for Bosley Professional Strength, reports that hair loss is often multifactorial; your client could have a myriad of causes at play, including genetics. “About 20 percent of women thin due to an inherited condition known as female pattern hair loss—the same inherited predisposition (androgenetic alopecia) that causes up to 66 percent of men to lose their hair by age 60,” Blaisure details. “Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is genetic predisposition causes the follicle in the crown and hairline to be sensitive to DHT, which, over time, shortens the hair life cycle, producing finer and weaker tresses, and can lead to changes in density. Men can go completely bald, often starting in their late teens or early 20s, while women experience di used thinning and may notice it in their mid-30s and 40s, when perimenopause starts.” Additionally, aging causes the hair growth cycles to slow, leading to a higher percentage of hair staying in the resting cycle—which, over time, leads to density and diameter changes: less hair, texture alterations, and weaker, drier, frizzier locks as hair loses its lipid layer.

Stress, a more common agent for hair loss in women, causes an increase in cortisol (the stress hormone), which over time “steals” hormones and nutrients the body needs to function well, leading to imbalance and deficiencies. “Since we don’t need hair to live, hair is last in line to get what it needs to grow in a healthy manner,” Blaisure explains. “Any type of traumatic event can also disrupt the hair cycle, leading to sudden excessive shedding (typically happening about three months after the event), but this will usually self-correct after a few months.” Additional culprits, she adds, can be chemical processes (think relaxers and bleach) if they cause damage to the scalp, leading to inflammation, breakage and hair loss; this can even extend to overuse of dry shampoo.

Health states or conditions also play a role: During pregnancy, hormone levels are high, but after childbirth, hormones return to their normal range—so all of the hair that didn’t fall out during pregnancy suddenly sheds at once. “ is also starts at about three months and usually self-corrects over time,” Blaisure notes. “Alternatively, many autoimmune disorders can cause hair shedding, and women seem to be more prone to these conditions.” Dr. Yazdan points to autoimmune conditions—a classification of conditions wherein the body attacks itself, which can include destroying the hair follicles—such as alopecia areata, frontal fibrosing alopecia and many more—as culprits. “Medications such as hormone replacement and birth control pills, steroids and, of course, chemotherapy, may cause hair loss, but differently in different clients,” adds Blaisure. Side effects of medications or chemotherapy treatments can generally be reversed if treated early, Dr. Yazdan explains, and notes that trauma, such as traction alopecia, accidents, surgeries, etc., can lead to short-term loss that can pass over time. Furthermore, Blaisure says, studies show that deficiencies in certain nutrients—namely vitamins C, D and B12, and minerals such as iron, zinc and omega-3 fatty acids—may contribute to hair loss. And, as hair is part of the skin structure, when the scalp receives sun damage, this injury can also impair the follicle.

​Finally, according to Bridgette Hill, aka “The Scalp therapist,” the location of the thinning can assist with determining if the cause is reactional or genetic. “Thinning around the hairline generally indicates a genetic predisposition, while allover thinning with no definitive bald patches typically points to reactional thinning,” Hill details. “The hair loss plan and products to treat reactional thinning will be needed temporarily, whereas a genetics-related hair loss plan and products would involve a lifetime change in her overall hair regimen.”

Read more of the article here for information on Preventative Measures, Extensions & Wigs, and Lash & Brow Losses.

Itchy, dry, red scalp. It’s embarrassing, painful and frustrating. And that’s just the way it looks. Having a scalp which is suffering these symptoms is also incredibly itchy, painful and can even sting and burn.
Is any shampoo safe?

Will any scalp treatment work?

Are you making your scalp worse by using anti-dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis or anti-psoriasis shampoos?

Fact: the signs of contact allergy or irritant reaction to shampooing products can look and present exactly like dandruff and psoriasis.   You read that right, a badly chosen dandruff shampoo can actually exasperate your condition.

It’s easy to waft this away.

I’ve been using the same shampoo for months/years with no issue – it definitely cannot be my shampoo.

Or…

I used this shampoo a few days ago – it didn’t cause me a reaction straight away so it definitely cannot be my shampoo.

Fact: allergic contact dermatitis is not immediate. It can also take months and years of exposure to build.

This is why shampoo allergy can be enormously hard to pinpoint.

If you’re beginning to see that your scalp symptoms could be more than just dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis – keep reading. We spoke to Matthew Zirwas, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Bexley Dermatology, and 15 year expert in working with common, but difficult to treat, dermatologic diseases and problems.  And we spoke to Ruth Holroyd, founder of the award-winning blog What Allergy to find out more.

During the course of this article you’re going to learn;

What is an allergy and how do shampoo allergies develop?
What is the difference between an allergy and an irritation? – helpful if you’ve previously had a patch test
What shampoo ingredients cause allergies?
What is usually the first sign of contact dermatitis?
​
We start at the beginning…