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4/18/2021 0 Comments

Which Brush Is Right For Each Hair Type?

Your Guide To Choosing The Correct Brush For Every Look
Brush choice can make or break a technique. Choosing the right brush is like deciding what color, styling product or hot tool will best achieve a look with ease and speed. That’s why we collabed with Olivia Garden to create the ultimate guide to choosing brushes for blowouts, balayage, waves and more. Plus, some pro tips to show you how it’s done! Keep scrollin’ and don’t forget to screenshot your faves.
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1. Round Thermal Brush

Best For:
  • Curls, waves, volume and hair flips on normal to thick hair
  • Hair Length: The longer the hair, the bigger the brush diameter
  • Hair Type: Normal to thick hair

Why?

Large holes allow for great airflow, and ceramic-coated barrels dry the hair faster. Bristles are super heat-resistant AND ionic, so hair gets shiny and bouncy.

2. Square Thermal Brush

Best For:
  • Waves and flips (smaller diameters) or volume and smoothing (larger diameters) on normal to thick hair
  • Hair Length: The longer the hair, the bigger the brush diameter
  • Hair Type: Normal to thick hair

Why?

Square shapes allow you to create more versatile looks, and large holes help with airflow. Soft-tip ionic bristles make the hair shinier and are gentle on the hair and scalp.

Pro Tip: The square thermal brush creates volume while the flat side creates straight, sleekness vs. the round thermal brush that creates a C-shape in the hair.

3. Ionic & Boar Paddle Brush

Best For:
  • Daily brushing and care, touch-ups and styling
  • Hair Length: Short to long
  • Hair Type: Every hair type and hair extensions

Why?

Boar bristles distribute the hair’s natural oils for smooth and shiny hair, eliminating frizz and flyaways. The ionic and boar bristle combo is perfect for styling and brushing thick or curly hair.

4. Round Boar Brush

Best For:                          
  • Volume (smaller diameters) and straightening on wavy, curly or very curly hair
  • Hair Length: The longer the hair, the bigger the brush diameter
  • Hair Type: Wavy, curly and very curly

Why?

Boar bristles distribute the hair’s natural oils, resulting in super shiny hair. The tightly packed bristles give excellent tension control when straightening. Also, remember when using this brush on curls and waves, it is NOT a detangler!

5. Detangling Paddle Brush

Best For:
  • Detangles wet or dry hair
  • Hair Length: All lengths
  • Hair Type: Every hair type

Why?

Ball-point tips are gentle on the hair and scalp, and the snag-free design makes it easier for the brush to gently glide and detangle the hair from roots to ends.

6. Vent Soft Tip Paddle Brush

Best For:
  • Blow-drying, styling and daily brushing
  • Hair Length: All lengths
  • Hair Type: Every hair type

Why?

The large flat area straightens hair, and the vented brush head cuts down blow-drying time. The ionic bristles penetrate all the way to the scalp with gentle ball-point tips.

7. Color & Care Brush

Best For:
  • Fully saturating and evenly distributing hair color, lightener and treatments
  • Hair Length: All lengths
  • Hair Type: Every hair type

Why?

Dual length bristles easily penetrate shallow and deep layers at the same time for full saturation without gaps. The brush removes excess product and redistributes where it’s needed for a natural blend.

8. Styler Brush

Best For:
  • Styling, shaping, daily brushing and men’s styling
  • Hair Length: Short to medium
  • Hair Type: Fine to normal

Why?

Ball-point tips glide through the hair for faster styling, and the ceramic plate retains heat while you style. The heat-resistant, semi-circular pad helps shape the hair.

9. Teasing ­­Brush

Best For:
  • Teasing, building volume, creating texture and back-brushing
  • Hair Length: All lengths
  • Hair Type: Every hair type

Why?

The narrow brush design is perfect for building for back-combing and building volume or texture. The tail helps for sectioning with precision, separating hair, tucking and lifting.

10. Should I Use A Brush Cleaner & How Often?

​
Short answer: YES!
Whatever brush you choose, it’s ESSENTIAL to regularly clean—Mickey recommends using the Brush Cleaner between clients who lose a lot of hair and daily. This is a must for maintaining a clean, professional appearance and allows the brushes to do their jobs better!
Tips from Behind the Chair
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3/26/2021

Chemical Allergies: Shampoo, Cleaners, and More

That moisturizer your friends swear by left your face red and scaly. The cleaner you've been using for years to make your bathroom sparkle made your hands itch and burn.

For some people, the chemicals in shampoos, cosmetics, and detergents can trigger allergic skin reactions.

Causes

These reactions -- what your doctor calls allergic contact dermatitis -- happen when your immune system overreacts to chemicals that are normally harmless. They can be in products you're exposed to over and over, like cleaners, colognes, hair dyes, and personal care items.

Even if you've used them before, you can still have a reaction.

Cosmetics and personal care products have a lot of potential allergens, things you could be allergic to:
  • Fragrances in soaps, colognes, deodorants, body creams, cosmetics, detergents, and tissues
  • Preservatives and antibacterials, added to many liquids to keep them from spoiling
  • Substances added to thicken, color, or lubricate a product
  • Chemicals in permanent hair dyes and other hair products
  • Formaldehyde resin, an ingredient in many nail care products
  • Sunscreens, often found in cosmetic moisturizers, lip balms, and foundations

Symptoms

Your skin is one of the first places where the warning signs can show up. They often appear 24 to 48 hours later, but can start as late as a week after you come in contact with the irritating chemical.

Each person may have different chemical allergy symptoms. Some of the most common are:
  • Red skin
  • Scaly patches
  • Blisters that ooze
  • Burning or itching, which may be intense
  • Swelling of the eyes, face, and genital area
  • Hives
  • Sun sensitivity
  • Darkened, "leathery," and cracked skin

The symptoms tend to be worst where you touched the thing you're allergic to. If you get the allergen on your finger and then touch another part of your body, like your face or neck, you can set off an allergic reaction there.

Other conditions can cause similar symptoms, so see your doctor to find out what the problem is.

Diagnosis

Often your doctor may be able to diagnose your allergy by doing a physical exam and asking you about your symptoms.

Sometimes, they may suggest you see an allergist for a skin test, also called a patch test. The allergist places small samples of chemicals on your back and checks to see if you get a rash.

Keep track of your symptoms. It will help your doctor make a diagnosis. Note details such as:
  • What you were doing in the 24 to 48 hours before your outbreak
  • Any products you were using before the reaction
  • How much of the product you were using and how often
  • Where it touched your skin (even places with no symptoms)
  • Symptoms you have or had
  • Any previous skin reactions

Treatment

You'll want to identify and avoid the chemical that seems to cause your allergic reaction.

If you do come into contact with it, wash your skin with soap and water as soon as possible. If you have the allergen on your hands, don't touch other parts of your body until you've washed your hands.

It may help to take off and wash any clothes or jewelry that might have come in contact with the irritating chemical.

If you use nail care products, make sure the product has dried before you touch your skin.

Got a mild reaction? You can sometimes treat symptoms yourself with over-the-counter medications such as calamine lotion, antihistamines, or cortisone ointments.
​
See your doctor if you have frequent or severe outbreaks. They can help you find out why it happens and give you prescription medications if you need them.
WebMD Medical Reference

3/26/2021 0 Comments

The Causes and Treatments of 4 Common Scalp Issues

Certified trichologist Gretchen Friese identifies the causes and treatments of four common scalp issues: psoriasis, dermatitis, alopecia and dandruff.
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As a BosleyMD-certified trichologist and hairstylist/salon director at Foushee SalonSpa (@fousheesalonspa) in Littleton, Colorado, Gretchen Friese has her hands (and eyes) on everything related to hair and scalp health. Here, she shares the key characteristics, causes and best remedies behind four of clients’ most common scalp concerns.

Psoriasis appears as bumpy red patches covered with white scales—caused by the immune system attacking healthy skin cells. If the client is sick or battling an infection (strep throat is a common trigger), her immune system will go into overdrive to fight the infection, kicking off a psoriasis flare-up. Psoriasis is usually cleared up by doctor-prescribed medications.

With dermatitis, the skin will typically look dry, swollen and red. But there are several different kinds: Atopic dermatitis (eczema) begins at infancy and is usually caused by dry skin, genetics, an immune system disorder, a skin infection, exposure to certain foods, or contact with allergens—or a combination of these. Contact dermatitis is typically caused by contact with a skin irritant, inciting an allergic reaction (think poison ivy, perfumes, jewelry containing nickel, cleaning products, or creams/lotions). Seborrheic dermatitis is caused by a yeast that’s present in oil secretions on the skin. Follicular dermatitis is essentially atopic dermatitis that affects hair follicles. Control dermatitis by moisturizing regularly, or using medicated ointment, creams or dermatitis-specific shampoos.

Alopecia leads to thinning hair and also comes in various forms. Androgenetic alopecia (pattern baldness, usually genetic) occurs with a sensitivity to the hormone dihydrotestosterone. Alopecia areata, an autoimmune disorder, is typically caused by trauma or stress. And traction alopecia happens when hair is pulled too tightly, stressing the follicle and eventually leading to hair loss. These may not have complete cures, but retail products can help fill out the appearance of thinning areas.

Finally, dandruff appears as white flakes on the scalp, which shed into the hair and fall from the head (perhaps accompanied by mild itchiness). Here, a fungus feeds on the oils on the scalp, which can have many causes: irritated or oily skin, not shampooing enough, age (it’s common in teens and young adults), weather, stress levels, medical conditions and some hair products. The condition can usually be remedied with an anti-dandruff shampoo.

Talking Points

How can a stylist sensitively broach scalp issues with clients? “It can be an embarrassing topic, so ask a benign question like, ‘How is your scalp feeling?’ or ‘Have you had any itching on your scalp lately?’” Friese advises. “Questions like this will usually open up a conversation about the issue.”
​
Similarly, Brandon Johns (@diplobrandon), an educator with Malibu C and owner of Dallas-based Studio2020, asks clients if they’ve experienced any changes to their diet or medications, then recommends therapeutic treatments to remove any mineral buildup on the hair and scalp (followed by related retail suggestions). “Clients often are looking for the stylist to bring these issues up,” Johns notes. “But it could be caused by something really simple—like if they’re using the same shampoo for six months or more, overwashing, or not washing hair often enough. They may just need a simple switch!”
From BeautyLaunchPad
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2/28/2021 0 Comments

The Importance of Proper pH in Hair Products

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Humans (and their skin) are naturally balanced on the pH scale between 4.0 and 6.5. (HELPFUL HINT: Anything below a 7 on the pH scale is acidic, and anything above 7 is alkaline.) 

Human pH is slightly on the acidic side of the pH scale so personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner and other body and skin care will work best if they’re slightly acidic.

Humans all have a natural barrier called the acid mantle. The barrier helps reduce the risk of bacteria, dirt and other substances infiltrating the skin and potentially leading to irritation and breakouts. Products that don’t match the human acid mantle will disrupt the natural ability to keep skin and hair looking and feeling healthy. 
​
“Don’t let the ingredient list on the package fool you,” cautions Doug Smith, brand manager for Eufora HERO for Men. “Yes, good ingredients are always important, but they can’t provide peak performance if the product formulation isn’t balanced to your natural pH level.”
from BeautyLaunchPad
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2/26/2021 0 Comments

Ask a Hairstylist: Is Apple Cider Vinegar Safe for Colored Hair?

In This Article
  1. What Is Apple Cider Vinegar?
  2. The Benefits
  3. How It Differs From Clarifying Shampoo
  4. Is It Safe To Use on Colored Hair?
  5. How To Try at Home
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Apple cider vinegar is to hair like coffee is to creamer. You don't necessarily need it, but try it once and you (likely) won't go back. We know that this kitchen staple has health benefits and can even fight blackheads, but still, we have questions when it comes to using it in our hair. For one, how is it any different from a clarifying shampoo? And, is an apple cider vinegar hair rinse for colored hair deemed safe by experts? After all, it burns like crazy when you toss it down the ol' hatch, so it's natural to assume our bleached and dyed strands wouldn't be able to tolerate apple cider vinegar's acidity.
 
To find out all the benefits ACV can have on the hair and if it's safe to use on colored strands, we turned to the pros. Keep scrolling to see all they had to say about how to safely use apple cider vinegar on colored hair.
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​What is Apple Cider Vinegar?

​
Apple cider vinegar—or cider vinegar—is a vinegar made from fermented apple juice. "It is made by crushing apples, then squeezing out the juice," says Gretchen Friese, Bosley Professional Strength certified trichologist. "Bacteria and yeast are added to the liquid to start an alcoholic fermentation process, which converts the sugars from the juice to alcohol. Then in a second and final fermentation step, the alcohol is converted into vinegar." Apple cider vinegar contains antibacterial and anti-fungal properties that make it ideal for many uses ranging from cooking to health and beauty.

What Are the Benefits of Apple Cider Vinegar on Hair?

​
Apple cider vinegar is chock-full of properties that can be nourishing and healing for the hair.
  • Alleviates dry scalp: "The antibacterial and anti-fungal properties of ACV help to keep the pH level of the scalp balanced," says Friese. "Dandruff is a buildup on the scalp that happens when too much yeast is present on oily areas of the skin. Using a mix with ACV can help avoid that build up."
  • Reduces color fading: Friese notes that for color-treated hair, ACV can help close the cuticles, thus maintaining your color's vibrancy.
  • Controls frizz: Friese maintains that ACV can help smooth the hair and keep frizz at bay, making it a popular treatment option among those with curly and textured hair.
  • Detangles: If you have hair that's prone to knots or tangles, ACV and a wide-tooth comb can help rid them.
  • Reduces hair loss: With its ability to balance the skin's pH and clear the hair follicle from debris, Friese says that ACV can help reduce hair loss.
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​How Does it Differ From a Clarifying Shampoo?

Apple cider vinegar may be effective at getting rid of buildup on the scalp (think: hairsprays, dry shampoo, and excess grease), but isn't that what a clarifying shampoo does? Yes and no. Friese breaks it down for us: "Clarifying shampoos are formulated to remove product buildup and excess oils as well as prep the hair for some types of color or hair treatments. However, when used alone it can fade color and make the hair feel dry and look dull, making following up with a good conditioner or treatment necessary." On the other hand, while apple cider vinegar—like a clarifying shampoo—also removes buildup and debris, it has the added benefit of offering healing properties for the scalp.
​
Plus, it can seal in hair color as well as add shine and control frizz.
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Is it Safe to Use on Colored Hair?

Our experts agree that apple cider vinegar is safe for all hair types, including color-treated hair. If you're looking for a solution for how to remove buildup from color-treated hair (but don't want to strip your hair of its color over time), you've found it in ACV. "Apple cider vinegar rinses are really truly about removing buildup of products, and they make the hair really clean,” says Jo Blackwell-Preston, founder and master stylist at Dop Dop Salon. Apple cider vinegar, while being acidic, is only slightly so—just enough to balance the pH of your hair (and scalp), not strip it. And because it’s a chelating agent (the thing responsible for making your hair lather up), it has the ability to grab the minerals and metals (mostly from hard water) that build up and dull your hair. “Apple cider vinegar coats the cuticle, leaving the hair soft and shiny,” Joico celebrity colorist Denis de Souza says. “It also helps to strengthen your hair by closing the cuticles and the hair shaft.” Shiny hair, healthy scalp, and unclogged hair follicles--it’s an all-around do.

All this to say, because ACV is slightly acidic, when it's mixed with two to three parts water it may extend the life of hair color, but only when applied right after the color is rinsed off. "Most hair colors are alkaline, which opens up the hair cuticle, and applying an acidic solution may reseal the cuticle," notes Friese.

How to Try at Home

Here's a good guideline for an apple cider vinegar rinse: one half to four tablespoons of ACV for every eight ounces of water. That said, you can experiment to find a dilution that works best for you and your hair type. Fill the solution in a plastic squeeze bottle or spray bottle. Friese recommends shampooing first and then saturating the hair with ACV, massaging the solution into the scalp. Let it sit for a couple of minutes before rinsing. "The frequency of use depends on the individual and their hair type, but too much use can cause brassiness and damage," she warns. de Souza agrees, noting that using an ACV rinse a few times a week isn’t going to harm your color, though you should use it less frequently if your skin skews sensitive.

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Click on the article on Byrdie for product recommendations.
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