Seeking better hair health? Start at the scalp. Michelle Blaisure, product and technical specialist for Bosley Professional Strength, stresses the importance of a solid background on scalp health, since the scalp skin is the “soil” from which hair grows. “Salon professionals are often the first line of defense when it comes to common scalp issues that can contribute to hair thinning and loss,” Blaisure explains. “They’re given some basic information about scalp issues, such as dry scalp and dandruff, during cosmetology training, so they should be able to recognize some of the more common problems.”

The Importance of ID

Bridgette Hill, aka “The Scalp Therapist,” notes that stylists can address superficial scalp abnormalities, but they should also work in tandem with medical pros—a trichologist, dermatologist or doctor. “Simply by seeing and feeling the scalp, stylists can communicate any changes to clients and aid in identifying their historical scalp/hair routines and habits,” Hill details. “It would be irresponsible to expect the salon professional to medically identify, diagnose or treat conditions of the skin and scalp, but the stylist can present proper scalp analysis and incorporate scalp care to aid in prevention and maintain the health of the clients’ scalp and hair.” Alternatively, Blaisure adds, for more in-depth knowledge—or to specialize in hair and scalp health—trichology certification is a great option.

In reality, a licensed cosmetologist can treat only two scalp conditions in a salon setting once a condition has been diagnosed: dandruff and mild seborrheic dermatitis. “Always put on gloves if you suspect any kind of scalp lesion or debris as some scalp conditions are highly contagious, and practice proper state- issued sanitation rules and regulations,” Hill advises. “While all other conditions must be managed by a dermatologist or medical professional, a stylist should acknowledge any changes in the client’s scalp and hair and engage in proper consultations to address any concern in its infancy before it can become a larger threat to the overall scalp and hair health.” For example, is the client complaining of a scaly, sore or itchy scalp? Are these symptoms visible to the naked eye?

Tony Odisho, president and CEO of Tony Odisho Extensions, agrees that part of the stylist’s job is to examine the scalp as the growing ground for healthy hair— looking for anything from potentially cancerous lesions to excess buildup. “We may see itching, flaking, scaling, allergic reactions or infections, and we may be able to recommend products such as clarifying or anti-dandruff shampoo in certain cases,” he says. “But it’s very important to build a relationship with a dermatologist so you can refer the client when you spot problems.”

Generally, Hill notes several scalp conditions to watch out for, and their symptoms:

• Dandruff: Skin cells of the scalp shed at a faster rate than normal, creating buildup.
• Seborrheic dermatitis: Occurring in oily skin areas other than just the scalp, symptoms are itchiness, as well as scaly, red skin that may occur with dandruff.
• Psoriasis: Look for bright pink, inflamed skin covered with silvery scales (which may bleed if the scales are removed).
• Folliculitis: is is a contagious inflammation of the hair follicle.
• Fungal/bacterial ringworm. “Most medical scalp conditions relate more to general health and diet, but a contributing factor of some scalp ailments can be attributed to the products that the stylist uses on the client during chemical or styling services,” Hill says. “The stylist should do patch testing and incorporate proper scalp cleansing and exfoliation as pre-treatment services, while comprehensive consultations will assist a client in getting to the root of his or her scalp issues and can allow the salon pro to guide the client to consult with a trichologist or dermatologist if needed.”

Root Causes

Hill notes that abnormal hair and scalp conditions can be caused by one or a combination of factors: Genetics, lifestyle, diet, styling habits, environment, health, stress, hormones, and medications may all play a role. For severe problems medical testing may be required, while some issues can be tamed in-salon with treatments that encourage more circulation in the scalp, plus proper shampooing so that the scalp is being properly cleansed and balanced, Hill says. “Because scalp health is a affected by a combination of factors, it’s often challenging to isolate one particular cause,” she adds.

However, Hill outlines some possible causes of various scalp conditions:

• Dandruff: overgrowth of yeast, stress, hormones, excess oil on the scalp, immune system illnesses
• Seborrheic dermatitis: overgrowth of yeast, fatty/poor diet, stress, winter weather
• Psoriasis: bacterial or viral infections, dry air (often worse in winter), injury to skin, stress, excess alcohol consumption, weakened immune system
• Folliculitis: viruses, bacteria, inflammation of ingrown hairs
• Fungal/bacterial (contagious): pets, warm weather environments that create more wetness on the scalp

Odisho, for example, witnesses a definite uptick in dryness amid the fluctuating weather at his Chicago-based salon, while tress-taming ingredients like keratin or silicones can clog the scalp. “Scalp problems can be due to a variety of circumstances, such as the use of harsh chemicals; infrequent shampooing and overuse of dry shampoos; stress; autoimmune disorders; a poor diet lacking in vital nutrients; and environmental factors such as pollution, dry/cold weather and sun damage,” Blaisure explains. “Or the client may simply be genetically predisposed to certain scalp conditions, like eczema.” If a client is experiencing a scalp problem or hair loss, Blaisure recommends questioning the client to help determine the source of the issue and contributing factors, which can provide the stylist with information that can help her make a recommendation—e.g., an anti-dandruff shampoo, different hair products, reducing chemical processes, or seeing a medical pro for a diagnosis.

Talk Therapy

As Blaisure notes, experts agree that conversation is critical—but when it’s time to have that talk with clients, stylists may feel intimidated. How can you approach the topic in a helpful way? “Sometimes stylists are more concerned about making a client comfortable than actually solving problems,” Odisho admits. “But many clients are more likely to confide in their stylist than a doctor, so with the proper education and verbiage, stylists can feel more comfortable.”

Indeed, Hill recommends engaging with the client and making time to scan the client’s scalp and hair prior to every appointment. “Ask questions: ‘Have you noticed or experienced any changes in your scalp and hair since our last appointment?’” she advises. “When seasons change, that’s a great opportunity to inquire about any at-home hair routine changes.” Additionally, if you notice a severe issue (think bleeding or scaly patches), acknowledge what you see and ask, “Have you felt any changes in sensitivity or tenderness on your scalp?” Identify areas of concern and suggest dermatological care in severe cases.

Blaisure agrees that a consultation is the first step toward treatment— especially with a new client. “ is can be as simple as saying, ‘Tell me about your hair; have you had any challenges?’” she says. “This can easily lead into discussing what the stylist sees.” Meanwhile, with a regular client, Blaisure recommends taking advantage of that established relationship to bring up any issues with the scalp or hair, and then making recommendations based on the client’s responses.

Targeted Solutions

Naturally, the proper solutions to a scalp issue depend on the causes. Hill outlines the following possible treatments for various scalp conditions:

• Dandruff: frequent shampooing; anti-​dandruff shampoos containing selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, sulfur, coal tar or zinc; reducing stress and fats in the diet (such as chocolate and cheese)
• Seborrheic dermatitis: Anti- inflammatory, antiseptic prescriptions; frequent shampooing; medical prescriptions; a shampoo with the ingredients mentioned for dandruff
• Psoriasis: Requires medical care (possibly topical and/or oral prescriptions); frequent shampooing; or a shampoo with the ingredients mentioned for dandruff
• Folliculitis or fungal/bacterial causes: Requires medical care with oral and/or topical prescriptions 

However, note that some conditions can look similar, such as dry scalp and dandruff. “With both, we see dry flaking on the scalp, but dandruff is due to a fungal overgrowth, whereas dry scalp is often due to a lack of moisture or oil in the skin,” Blaisure explains. “If it itches and has been ongoing, it may be dandruff, and recommending an anti-dandruff shampoo would be a solution; if it’s dry scalp, using a moisturizing conditioner or scalp oil can help alleviate the dryness.”

On the other hand, Blaisure adds, if the problems are caused by chemical services or products, the client may want to reduce the use of chemicals, cut down the use of problem-causing products or switch the product regimen altogether. “Cleansing the scalp on a regular basis is always recommended—shampooing at least once a week, if not more, especially if your client is experiencing scalp issues,” Blaisure says. “When the scalp is not cleansed on a regular basis, bacteria can build up along with debris and cause inflammation on the scalp, which can lead not only to scalp problems but also to hair loss.”

Still, Hill warns, some of the proven active ingredients in those scalp treatments may have adverse affects on the hair fabric, creating a challenge for the stylist. “ is is where a certified trichologist can assist: understanding ingestibles, topicals and scalp therapies that can offer scalp relief as well as maintain the integrity of the hair,” Hill notes. “For any client who suffers from scalp conditions, use soothing salves and oils designed for sensitive scalps, and create barriers before chemical treatments.”These products are also ideal for pre-treatments before shampooing.

Finally, clients with chronic scalp issues should be encouraged to maintain minimal-heat, low-tension hairstyling routines so as not to worsen any present conditions. Hill notes that most scalp conditions can only be controlled (versus completely healed), but stylists can offer preventive scalp services and treatments to keep domes properly exfoliated and cleansed, which assists in managing proper cellular turnover while keeping the hair follicle nutrient-rich.
​
This information is from LaunchPad

​Itches are inscrutable. They arrive unannounced and recede at the rake of a fingernail. But the stubborn kind—the type that skittle across your scalp with terrible regularity—tend to have an easily identifiable cause: Dandruff.

“People think dandruff has to do with dry skin, but it’s actually a problem with how the skin cells on your scalp turn over or replace themselves,” says Dr. Adam Friedman, director of dermatologic research at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York. Your skin is constantly shedding layers of cells while manufacturing new ones, and Friedman says this process can be touchy. “Producing too many cells too quickly can lead to a build-up of dead skin, and this build-up itches and flakes off,” he explains. “That’s dandruff.”

What causes this over-production of skin cells? Anything that puts stress on your immune system—from cold winter temperatures to a crazy week at the office—can switch on certain genetic proteins that speed up the production of skin cells, Friedman says. (Other skin conditions—acne, eczema—also flare up when you’re stressed.)

Yeast microorganisms living on your scalp can also mess with your skin’s cell reproduction, says Dr. Anthony Rossi, a dermatologist with Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. While usually harmless, these organisms—which live on everyone’s skin—can cause a reaction in some that leads to cell overabundance.

How do you stop the itching and flaking? Dandruff shampoo is a good start. Friedman says these shampoos work by killing scalp microorganisms and turning off the proteins that cause your skin cells to go nuts. That said, shampoos only help if you use them properly. “You’re trying to treat your scalp, so working these into your hair doesn’t do much good,” Friedman says. “You need to massage these products onto your scalp skin and leave them there for a couple minutes before rinsing.” (They aren’t usually very kind to your hair, though.)

He says dandruff shampoos typically include any one of a small number of chemicals that are all pretty much equally effective. While you could wash with them every day without over-drying your scalp, Friedman says this isn’t necessary. “Two or three times a week is plenty,” he says. “And if you don’t see improvement after a few weeks, switching to another product or using them more probably won’t do any good.”

There are many more explanations for an itchy dome. If your scalp is inflamed, red, and itchy, that may be seborrheic dermatitis—a more severe form of dandruff. “Scalp psoriasis is probably the next most common,” Friedman says. It can be hard to tell the difference between the two. But usually the flakes or “plates” of silvery gray plaques associated with scalp psoriasis are larger than dandruff flakes and tougher to brush from your clothing, he says. Scalp psoriasis could also cause some ear or face flaking.

Friedman mentions a few less-common issues: a skin disease called discoid lupus, or an allergic reaction. Rossi says an irritation to hair products like sprays or pomades is another possible itch-instigators. But trying to distinguish between those things and dandruff is really tough, Friedman says.

A good rule of thumb: If you have a red, itchy head and dandruff shampoos aren’t working after a month, see a doctor, he advises. He also cautions against waiting too long if dandruff shampoos don’t get the job done. “If you don’t treat inflammation of the scalp, there’s a chance of skin damage or hair loss,” Friedman says. “There’s often no coming back from that once it happens.”

This article is from TIME

When communicating with your barber on what kind of haircut you’d like, it’s important to know the meaning of the terms that can be part of that conversation.

Two common barbering terms that often get confused by the layman are “taper” and “fade.”
​
It’s easy to confuse these hairstyle descriptors because, as we’ll soon explain, all fades are tapers, but not all tapers are fades. 

To ensure you never ask for a fade, when you meant a taper, read on.

A taper haircut gradually changes your hair length, typically starting out longer at the top of the head and getting shorter as you go down to the natural hairline on the nape of the neck and sides of the head. The length of a taper can vary. You can have a really long taper (hair is longer) or a short taper (hair comes down closer to the skin).
​
Unless you’re growing your flow out or you got a buzz cut, most haircuts for dudes will involve some sort of taper.

​A fade is a taper that gradually takes the hair down to the skin, so that it looks like the hairline on the sides and back of your head “fades” away before it reaches the natural hairline. 

Basically, a fade is a really short taper. Hence, all fades are tapers, but not all tapers are fades.
​
Fades are a bit trendier and give your face and head a bit of an “edge” — both in terms of its literal lines as well as in the overall impression or vibe the hairstyle gives off.

Fades can start low, mid, or high. Low fades start fading closer to the ear, mid fades start fading just above the ear, and high fades can start fading way up high on the head. Which fade you choose will come down to personal preference and the look you’re going for.

The one downside with fades is that they do require regular maintenance to keep that faded-to-skin look fresh and sharp. 

There is No Such Thing as a “Taper Fade” So Quit Saying It

A lot of people ask their barber for a “taper fade.” When you tell your barber that, he’s probably going to ask you (if he’s a good barber), “So do you want a taper or do you want to fade down to skin?” Remember, a taper is longer; a fade fades to skin. 

Now that you know the distinction between a fade and taper, rather than confusedly putting the terms together, you can use them to convey your desires to your barber more clearly.

This business-in-the-front, party-in-the-back style has been around way before it was popularized by actors and rock stars in the 1980’s. According to some historians, the mullet has been around since at least Ancient Greece, where the style was as much for function as it was for fashion. Cropped hair around the face with longer locks in the back allowed for both visibility and a protective layer of hair for your neck. Homer even described a haircut that sounds eerily familiar in The Iliad: “their forelocks cropped, hair grown long at the backs.”The Greeks weren’t the only ones sporting the mullet, though. There is evidence that Neanderthals and our oldest ancestors would wear this ‘do, as well.

The relative ease of maintaining it makes it possible to keep up even without the existence of barbershops and hair salons, and the practicality makes it perhaps one of the oldest haircuts in human history.Some Native American tribes, both historically and more recently, have included the mullet with other traditional hairstyles. In many tribes, long hair is representative of a strong cultural identity. It is connected to values of family and community, and there are multiple rituals surrounding the upkeep of long hair. The preferred style for displaying long locks is most commonly braids – often two or three – but cuts closer the Mohawks and mullets have not been uncommon, either.

Mullets have been present in and out through our entire history as a species, in different parts of the world. It wasn’t until the 1970’s when the mullet starting rising to modern mainstream fame, though, reaching its peak in the 80’s when everyone from George Clooney to Metallica’s James Hetfield sported one. It tended to be popular with white dudes who played rock music or hockey, incredibly cool and trendy for a while. The hairstyle didn’t actually have the name “mullet” until 1994, though, when the Beastie Boys released a song called “Mullet Head.” Not long after the name mullet was christened, the hairdo was on its way out. 

By the time the Beastie Boys gave the style its name, it had begun to slide from the trendy mainstream position it had been sitting comfortably at to a more countercultural phenomenon.

The peak of mullets ended in the early 1990’s, but the style has never completely faded from relevance. Instead, it slipped from the good graces of the masses and became iconic in various subcultures: everyone from country music stars and lesbians, to hockey players and Native Americans. Jennifer Arnold even created a documentary about the haircut in 2002 titled American Mullet (which you can find on Amazon Prime if you’re curious). 

In more recent years, the mullet was actually banned in Iran, for being considered too much of a “western hairstyle”. No matter what you think of it, the mullet has become enough of a staple of the American aesthetic that it’s been placed in that categorization along with spiked hair, ponytails, and long hair in general. 
​
Will the mullet ever rise once more the its former glory in the 80’s? Maybe not, but it has certainly cemented itself as an iconic haircut from the past, and an important style to this day for many groups of people. 

The Mullet in 2020

It’s 2020, and the question everyone must now ask is: is the mullet coming back in style? Some may argue that it was never in style, while others will insist that it never went out of style. Ask the general public or a hair stylist, though, and they will probably be inclined to tell you that yes, the mullet is coming back. In January this year, men’s fashion blogs across the internet all declared the same thing: 2020 would be the year for the mullet. Beginning as a counter-culture hair style that was just getting its footing in the world of fashion once again, this year has proved to be the perfect time for the resurgence of the mullet. 

With hair salons being closed for multiple months in the first half of 2020, many people took on the dreaded task of facing down a home-brewed haircut. For some this manifested in a mullet style: either out of appreciation for the cut, or, perhaps, out of necessity. Get the hair off your face without worrying about trimming the back of your head where you can’t see. Like our ancestors before us, we must acknowledge the mullet for what it truly is: a practical haircut. 

The sudden lack of access to salons isn’t the only reason mullets are coming back, though. There have been whispers of the style in the mainstream over the last few years, and this was simply the boil-over point. In the second half of the past decade, we’d seen a steady increase of mullet action once again amongst the most famous of us. Ironically, a lot of the most notable celebrities actively rocking mullets today are women. Female singers especially. Everyone from Kesha and Miley Cyrus to Billy Eilish and even Zendaya have been seen sporting the look. What may have been considered a trashy style by many even just a few years ago has become a chic look sported by those of us who have a tendency to look coolest. 

When it comes to less famous women wearing the look, just as many have been sporting the ‘do as the pop stars and celebrities of the world. Especially amongst women in the LGBT+ community, the mullet is becoming as big of a fashion statement as it is amongst guys. Combine this cut with absurdly large earrings and colorful pants, and you’re ready to tell the world “Hello ladies! I, too, am gay.” 
​
Is the mullet resurging in popularity along with 80’s nostalgia-themed media, like It and Stranger Things? Perhaps. Like media and clothing, hair styles tend to move in cycles. Men’s hairstyles have been typically short-on-the-sides, longer-on-top for a while, now, and maybe the mullet is a shift out of those restrictions. Recent women’s fashion has involved a lot of things that were at one point, not long ago, considered tacky (looking at you, mom jeans and scrunchies). Maybe the mullet is the next step in this resurgence, allowing men to embrace the tackier sides of our previous societal fashion faux pas, as well.