When it comes to curling your hair there are many tools, techniques and types of curls to explore – curling irons for defined curls, hair rollers for voluminous hair and hair wands for undone waves and curls. While most mane-obsessed people have their favorite go-to curling iron and are also familiar with using hair rollers, hair wands can seem a bit intimidating and confusing to use. To help you master the hair wand, we enlisted David Lopez, lead stylist of T3 and hair stylist to celebs like Ashley Graham, Hailey Baldwin and Chrissy Teigen, to break down the most important things to know when using a hair wand.
So for those who can’t seem to use a curling iron without getting their hair stuck in the iron’s clamp and want to achieve the loose, undone waves that only a wand can deliver, keep reading for Lopez’s six key hair wand tips. 1. Choose the Best Barrel For Your Hair Type T3’s Whirl Convertible specifically has 4 different interchangeable barrels for your desired wave or curl: Undone Waves 1″ straight barrel, Loose Waves 1.5″ straight barrel, Tousled Waves 1.25 – .75″ tapered barrel and Cascading Waves .75 – 1.25″ reversed tapered barrel. Those with shorter hair should stick to smaller barrels and people with longer hair can vary in size and sections depending on their desired result. According to Lopez, “texture from a wand looks great on every hair length as long as each section is able to get a full rotation around the barrel” 2. Always Start at the Root of the Hair No matter the look that you’re going for, start with the wand at the root of the hair and wrap towards the end of the wand, holding the hair into place using the hand that is wearing the glove. 3. Hold the Wand With the Barrel Facing Downward Holding the wand upside down while curling the hair is the most effective way to use the wand. Holding the wand in the direction that your hair flows and simply wrapping the section of hair from the base of the wand to the end will give you the best results for each section. 4. Pick Your Desired Curl Both your hair texture and your desired curl are factors to consider when choosing which type of barrel to use.
Pro Tip: “I like to curl the hair away from the face except for the hair right in front of the ear and below the temple. This creates the illusion of fullness and texture without looking too messy. Great for fine hair!” Says Lopez. 5. Larger Section of Hair = Soft Curls, Smaller Section = Tight Curls “A very basic rule of thumb is to remember that the larger section of hair that you wrap around the wand, the softer and more subtle the wave is. The smaller the section that you wrap around the barrel, the tighter and more dramatic the final wave and curl” says Lopez. Larger sections will result in looser, old hollywood glam vibes while smaller sections will result in tighter, more defined curls. 6. Take Care of Your Wand To keep your wand in tiptop shape and protect the wand against buildup from hairsprays and styling products, wipe the wand clean once a week when it is turned off. For hold and texture, Lopez notes that he first uses Kenra’s Whip Grip Mousse prior before styling and after styling, he mixes Kevin Murphy’s Young Again Oil with Kenra’s Volume Spray 25 in his hands and then runs through the lengths of the hair to give shine and hold all in one. This article first appeared on Mane Addicts
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"balayage au coton"
n.— «The shop has imported a young man named Yvan from the Carita salon in Paris to do what he calls a “balayage au cotton.” Starting at the nape, Yvan lifted out fine strands and applied a lightening paste with a thin brush. Instead of the usual foil wrapping, he tucked pieces of cotton wadding to support the strands in process and keep them from the rest of the hair. When he was three-quarters through, he had used 1,000 feet of cotton stripping and Miss Weston looked as though she were wearing an enormous white wig. The idea of the balayage (the word means sweeping) is to lighten fine strands of hair, rather than add color.» “Color Your Hair Simply, or Turn It Blue—Salons Can Do It All” by Angela Taylor New York Times Apr. 1, 1974. Balayage is the most exciting highlighting color technique to appear in a long time. Colorists and clients alike fall in love with the fabulous results. Color placement looks natural and organic, similar to the effortlessly random color you'd receive after a summer at the beach. THE HISTORY OF BALAYAGE Balayage (ba-lie-azhe), sometimes spelled ‘balliage’ or ‘baliage,’ is the art of hair painting. The term is based on the French word for ‘sweep away,’ or ‘balayer.’ Balayage, a.k.a “sweep away” originated at the exclusive gorgeous “Carita” Salon in Paris in the early 70’s making a huge name for itself with it’s beautiful and effortless sun kissed look. There’s a link to the 1974 New York Times article above. Balayage is offered in many salons today—but not all results are consistent (it’s not as easy as it looks!). The colorist must be well-trained and have a keen sense of the hair’s texture and movement. It’s just the colorist and the balayage brush. The most natural-looking results are usually those that look the most random, which calls for a very specific placement strategy. In the 70’s, this technique was originally called “Balayage a Coton” for it’s use of cotton strips to separate the colored hair from the untouched portion. It was introduced during the time when our industry norm was frosting caps and solid colors, making the Balayage technique truly revolutionary for its time! In the 80’s the industry introduced many varieties of foil highlighting techniques and it wasn’t actually until the early 90’s that Balayage first entered the US by storm grabbing the attention of top celebrities and became one of the hottest color trends to date! It seems most clients that highlight their hair on a regular are almost afraid of stepping in to the world of balayage as it is something “new” to them and may seem like a big change. There are many great reasons why Balayage is the top choice for highlights over the Foil technique! When the hair is sectioned and “weaved or sliced” in to a foil, the whole section is saturated in color giving it a dense, uniform effect which gives it an unnatural appearance. Within weeks you start to see the regrowth or a “line of demarcation” and you are due for a retouch. The Balayage technique is softly hand painted on the surface of the hair, leaving you with natural-looking swipes of color going from thick to thin and play off of the hairs natural movement. Unlike traditional foil highlights, balayage lightens more slowly, which means there's less of a chance for breakage. By choosing Balayage, you can go months without retouching and it gives that free flowing, untouched look. It can be done with any variety of colors making it flexible for your wants and needs and makes it more manageable for your wallets! A little something to think about before booking your next color service. NOT JUST FOR BLONDES It’s important to note that balayage is definitely not just for blondes. Brunettes, redheads, even those with black hair can all take advantage of hair painting. The results will be subtle, but they’ll add the dimension that everyone craves, giving a dark brunette swirls of cinnamon or caramel, for example. FOILS VS. BALAYAGE Foils often end up looking contrived - a neat row of uniform highlights. When a section of hair is colored using a foil, the entire section is saturated with color resulting in dense, unnatural stripes of color. Balayage color is painted in soft brush strokes across the surface of the hair, leaving you with natural-looking swipes of color that flow from thick to thin and play off the hair's natural movement. Even better, balayage won't leave you with any signs of demarcation, creating a softer and more manageable grow-out. FOILYAGE - the newest trend This process marries the technique of Balayage with the vibrant color payoff of foil highlights. The traditional balayage technique involves painting onto the surface of the hair, completely freehand, but the process can be messy and may not lighten the hair enough. Foilyage is a technique colorists use when they want to get more lift and can't achieve that with balayage so they go in and balayage inside the foil. Foilyage uses this same hand-painting technique, but adds foil for added lightening. In the end, you get nice natural-looking highlights. Article Sources: A Way with Words Beauty, Head First Maxine Salon - Chicago Char Le Blanc - Salon & Spa InStyle GoodHousekeeping European women like to wear their hair in natural styles; it’s a preference that is creating demand for natural hair care formulations and is also opening up the way for co-wash products that some consumers believe are gentler on their hair. Meanwhile, the crossover with skin care continues, with new micellar hair care products arriving on the market and treatment primers to help speed up drying time.
According to Kantar Worldpanel, most European women use shampoo, whereas men are more likely to use shower gel for all-over convenience. European men do, however, wash their hair on average more often than women, but very few use a conditioner. While shampoo penetration is fairly uniform across Europe, there are large variations in conditioner usage, with only 29% of women using these formulas in France, compared to 48% in Italy and Spain, and rising to 64% in Great Britain. While 86% of women wash their hair weekly, this is the lowest percentage in Europe, which peaks in Poland at 93%. The reasons women use a conditioner varies by European country, though it is primarily to moisturize, make hair softer, easier to style/comb and to add shine. In France, Germany and Poland damage repair is important and strengthening is also very important in Poland. These differences suggest that brand messaging needs to take specific benefits into account across different countries—multi-benefit hair care products have strong potential among consumers looking for more from their products. Co-Wash Is a Natural Niche The trend for co-wash in hair care is triggered by consumers looking to avoid skin irritants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, the main cleanser found in the majority of shampoos. These ingredients are thought to damage vulnerable hair types such as curly hair. According to GlobalData’s Q1 2017 global consumer survey, 41% of European consumers say they pay a high amount of attention to ingredients used in beauty or grooming products. “Despite being available on the market for several years, co-wash products still constitute a niche area in Europe,” noted Irene Bi, associate analyst, GlobalData. L’Oréal Elvive Extraordinary Oil Curl Nourishment Cleansing Conditioner from the UK is one example that is tailored to curly/Afro hair and is said to leave defined curls that are manageable throughout the day. Mintel has noted that L’Oréal has been the most active in the area of co-wash with L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Cleansing Conditioner, Elvive Low Shampoo Gentle Cleansing Creams in a number of markets, and Garnier Ultra Doux Le Low Shampoo (Belgium). Mintel has also noted the launch of lightweight cleansers, including Hairstory’s New Hair New Wash in France, which is billed as “detergent free.“ European consumers generally have a positive perception of natural ingredients and it is the top reason for choosing one brand over another, according to GlobalData research. A further 55% of Europeans find botanical actives effective in a beauty/grooming product. “This drives the trend towards botanical/plant hair care formulations, especially those using food ingredients, to boost their natural, safe and ‘better for you appeal,’” states Bi. An example is UK Botanicals Fresh Care Leave-In Conditioner, formulated with coriander, soya and coconut oils. NPD Borrows from Skin Care Andrew McDougall, global analyst, Mintel, has observed another trend in shampoos that is linked to skin care. “Emerging micellar hair care products which blur with skin care are also likely to expand and appeal to consumers, especially women who are already familiar with gentle micellar facial cleansers,” he explains. “In hair care, micellar shampoos can be aimed to women who color their hair, by targeting dirt and impurities whilst retaining the color.” Furthermore, McDougall has observed that women’s engagement with hair washing is notable in Europe, with over 40% in Spain and Italy shampooing their hair twice in the same wash. “Brands can tap into this by developing variants with different levels of cleansing, such as light, medium, strong. For example, a higher-cleansing formula for a second wash or a high cleansing formula can be positioned as ideal for removing sweat after exercise or for use after visiting a highly polluted area,” he suggests. “The active beauty and pollution-proof trends are ones which we are seeing affect the whole category.” The trend for protecting against pollution and UV began in East Asia where pollution is high, and has migrated West. According to GlobalData’s Q3 global survey, 2016, just over half of European consumers are very or extremely concerned with the impact of pollution on health and appearance. Recent anti-pollution hair care launches include Bionsen Purifying Shampoo from Hungary containing zinc to help remove impurities and residues from pollution, styling products and smoke. Sooa Soin des Cheveaux Hair Mask for Colored Hair and Locks from France has pro-vitamin B5 and an anti-UV solar filter. Another hair care concern which has links to skin care is care for the scalp, with new launches aimed at addressing issues such as itchy scalp, blocked hair follicles and hair growth. Petrole Hahn Anti-Dandruff Shampoo from France, contains zinc pyrithione and eucalyptus to soothe the scalp and calm itching. Lee Stafford Hair Growth Scalp Scrub from the UK is designed to exfoliate the scalp, unblock hair follicles and increase root productivity to help hair grow longer. One of its claims is based on its “pro-growth complex” for hair that never grows past a certain length. Blow-dry Treatment Primers Blow-drying is part of the daily grooming regime for many European women who are looking for ways to speed up the process while protecting the hair. The new wave stylers are described as treatment primers and include VO5 Express Primer Spray from the UK, which provides 230° heat protection and helps to detangle hair and reduce flyaways. Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Treatment Primer claims to speed up drying time, while also making colored hair visibly less damaged. Another launch spotted by Mintel is the KMS California Free Shape Quick Blow Dry product that claims to reduce drying time by 50%. European consumers are wising up to what goes into their hair care products and this is paving the way for new innovative ways with traditional formulations. There are bound to be many more on the horizon. This article first appeared on Happi Unlike menswear trends, chopping and changing your hairstyle is generally discouraged. It stands to reason. Few things compare to the crippling fear of returning to school after your mum got trigger happy with the clippers, and that anxiety endures in adulthood. The theory goes: pick a hairstyle that works and cling onto it for dear life. While it’s understandable to want to disaster-proof your barnet, haircuts are like dairy, and soon after their use-by-date they start to stink. Not convinced? Rod Stewart, Liam Gallagher and Simon Cowell have all stuck to their tried-and-tested styles long after they should have faded into history. But before you bound down to your local barber, take a look at these five key hairstyle trends for AW17, which have been given the seal of approval by some of the industry’s most follicularly informed experts. This is, literally, cutting-edge style. Millennial Curtains Scientifically speaking (probably), back in the nineties any boy band worth their salt spray had at least two curtain-headed members. All that was needed to get the look was a pair of scissors, a steady hand and a ruler. And just like gum sole sneakers and bum bags, the style is back. “A modern twist on a classic nineties haircut, ‘millennial curtains’ are pretty versatile,” says Denis Robinson, creative director at leading barbershop chain Ruffians. To make sure you’ve got the AW17 update and not the Backstreet’s Back version, Robinson recommends letting your barber know you want loose, long curtains. “If you don’t currently have enough hair length, they can cut the shape in. Your barber should use a round layering technique to give the hair the shape and texture required.” As well as marking you out as a man with an eye for the trends, the throwback cut can be used to help round-out pointed facial features. “The style works particularly well for square and rectangular face shapes,” adds Robinson, “but if you have a longer face, then best avoid.” Unless you want to look like Gareth from The Office, of course. Styling is relatively easy: dry the hair forward using a paddle brush, then sweep back when dry; apply hairspray or a light pomade to your palms and push through your hair, working your fingers out to either side. You’re ready to get up off the stool for the chorus key-change. The Skinhead Ah, the skinhead, a haircut that has the unique ability to make you look like either a vintage David Beckham or a vintage hooligan. Undeterred by previous bad PR, this follicle flashing cut is staging a comeback among respectable menswear types. Oliver Woods, a celebrity hairstylist to the likes of Robbie Williams, reckons it’s all down to the cut’s bold appeal. “The skinhead’s recent popularity is all about empowerment, either worn simply or dyed with bold colour,” he says. If you’re not as cool as Frank Ocean, you should probably give the bright green dye job a miss for now. And if you’re on the fence about the cut’s severity, Woods suggests toning it down a bit. “A high fade with more length on top and a natural finish at the front is popular at the moment and more forgiving, too.” Yes, you’re going to have to see a lot more of your barber to keep this style in check, but day to day all it requires is a little scalp oil to add nourishment and lustre. Ergo, it’s impossible to have a bad hair day. The Loose Quiff The quiff is always knocking around in one form or another, with success measurable on the scale from Kim Jong-un to Elvis Presley. Right now the coolest way to wear this gravity-defying hairstyle is closer to the latter, fortunately. The loose, textured quiff riffs on the good hair history of the pompadour, but is “a classic style worn longer for dramatic effect,” according to Robinson. As with any quiff hairstyle, you’re going to need hair, and lots of it. “Thicker hair works best to ensure that there is a good ‘wave’ shape,” says Robinson. Face shape is no problem (phew) but you’ll need to ask your barber to get creative. “Ask for the traditional quiff haircut, but explain that you’re going to be wearing it loose. Your barber will remove some weight and chop down into the length.” Styling will require a bit of technique to achieve the best results. Start by applying two to three squirts of salt spray to the roots of damp hair before blow-drying backwards with either a round or vent brush. Next, create the looseness by working a small amount of styling paste through from root to tip with a wiggle motion the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll would approve of. The Long French Crop Adding to a list that already includes wine, Marion Cotillard and ridiculously cool menswear brands, 2017 is about to bless us with another thing to get all Francophile about: the long French crop. Essentially it’s a much more interesting take on a timeless men’s cut, says Woods. “A short back and sides is key, but you should ask your barber to leave the top heavy and full.” For anyone with thicker or less obedient hair, this should be music to your rebellious follicles. The cut turns what can be a styling nightmare into an advantage because the texture can hide cow’s licks and other unruly elements. It just looks like you styled them that way. That gives the style’s the whole ‘woke up like this’ French thing and, merci-fully, once you’ve nailed the cut, styling is a pretty laid-back affair too. “I would suggest a dry styling product to create some structure and texture, pulling the hair forward into a long heavy fringe. Finish it off with a thumbnail-sized amount of styling clay and mould into place.” Et voila. The Cropped Blunt Fringe Suspend disbelief (and logic) for a moment because Star Trek’s Spock is this year’s most unlikely source of hair goals. Before you spit out your food, yes we’re being serious and no, we’re not trying to ruin your chances on Tinder this weekend. For cropped blunt fringe hairstyles done well, take a look at pretty much any men’s catwalk from the last 12 months.
Aside from its #menswear credentials, it’s a pretty democratic haircut, too. “This style is best suited to straight hair, but works well on most hair types due to its short length,” says Robinson. All face shapes are welcome here, although those blessed with a square jaw will have the most success with this look. It’s another inventive take on the short, back and sides, so Robinson advises asking your barber for “tight and faded sides with a blunt cut forward fringe”. To steer clear of any bowl cut vibes when styling, use a hair dryer with a flat concentrator nozzle attached and finish with texture dust or a styling clay to add separation and definition. All done and set to stun. This article first appeared on Fashionbeans |
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October 2024
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