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6/15/2020 0 Comments

A Man's Guide to Brushes and Combs

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I’ve never given much thought to the tool I use to style my mane. Brush? Comb? I just use the first thing I find in the bathroom. Sometimes it’s a brush. Sometimes a comb. Come to think of it, I can’t remember ever buying a brush or comb for myself. They’ve somehow always been around. 

But as I was brushing my hair with the pink, pillowy brush I borrowed from Kate the other day, I got to thinking, “Should I really be using a brush right now or would it be better to use a comb?” 

To answer this burning question, I called up AoM’s friendly resident barber, Thad Forrester, co-owner of Hudson / Hawk Barber & Shop. Thad gave me the lowdown on both brushes and combs, and when a man should reach for one over the other.

The Brush
There are all sorts of brushes on the market, but a man will most commonly employ a paddle brush on his hair.

A paddle brush is oval or rectangular in shape and has lots of bristles sticking out of a soft cushion. “The paddle brush is a good foundational brush,” Thad told me. “It’s gentle on the hair and scalp. I like to use it to smooth wavy hair out or detangle fine or kinky hair.”

In choosing the right brush for you, Thad offers this general rule: “the closer together the bristles are, the better they are for fine hair, and the farther apart they are, the better they are for thicker hair.” You’ll also need to pick between brushes with bristles that are made from either natural or synthetic materials (or a combination of both). Thad offers this lowdown on the pros and cons of each type:
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  • Natural bristle brushes. “Natural bristle brushes are typically made from boar bristles. They are known for being able to evenly disperse your hair’s natural oils and give your hair a very natural shine. The bristles are very close together so natural brushes work best in fine hair.”
  • Synthetic bristle brushes. “Synthetic bristles are typically made from nylon or plastic. They are generally spaced out on the brush head more, so work better on thick, coarse hair. They do a better job at detangling due to the wider spaced bristles and don’t generate as much static as natural bristles do.”
  • Combination bristle brushes. “Combination bristle brushes present the best of both worlds, as they can detangle and add shine to the hair. These would be the most versatile and work with fine to normal hair.”

Brushes range from the very cheap drugstore kind to uber expensive luxury varieties. Thad says that “A good quality brush doesn’t have to break the bank. There are some great boar bristle, synthetic, and combo brushes available from companies like Diane, Kent, Denman, and Bass that range from $5 – $20.” Consider experimenting with a few different types/brands of brushes to find one that feels good on your hair/scalp, and makes your hair look its best.

The Comb
Every man surely knows what a comb is: a single, rectangular piece of material with a solid upper from which spring a line of tines or “teeth.”

“The main thing that differentiates combs are the width of the comb teeth,” Thad says. “The smaller the width between teeth, the more precision and detail you can get with your hair styling.”

If you’re styling your hair with a side part, you’ll want a comb that has narrower spacing between teeth so you can get that kind of defined line in your comb-over. Think of the classic Mad Men type hairstyles. If you’re going for a style that’s a bit looser, go with a comb that has more widely spaced teeth.

“If you have really thick or coarse hair, I’d use a wide-tooth comb. You’re less likely to pull and damage your hair with it,” says Thad.

To keep your hair styling tools to a minimum, Thad recommends picking up a single comb that has more widely-spaced teeth on one end and more narrowly-spaced teeth on the other. Utilitarian and versatile.  

In addition to the varied spacing of teeth, combs can also be made out of different materials. Plastic is the most common, but wooden and even metal combs also exist. I once owned a stainless steel comb, as I liked the idea of it being so sturdy and indestructible. But I found that in reality, running metal tines over my scalp never seemed inviting, and I actually preferred plastic. Even though plastic doesn’t have luxurious connotations, it does seem to make for the best kind of combs. 

Perhaps surprisingly though, even between plastic combs, quality can differ, and it’s worth paying a bit more for a good one. Well-made combs are sturdy yet flexible, which keeps the teeth and the comb itself from snapping and breaking (especially important if you carry one around in your pocket). Quality combs also sport straight, smooth teeth with comfortable rounded ends that will feel good on your scalp and won’t scratch your skin or pull out your hair as they glide through its strands. Kent is a well-vetted brand in this category. 

When to Use a Hair Brush vs. a Comb
When should a man use a brush on his hair and when should he use a comb?

Thad’s general rule is that for longer hair, you want to stick primarily with a brush. A paddle brush will keep your hair smooth, straight, and detangled without causing too much discomfort in the process. Brushes don’t allow for precision styling, but when you have longer hair, you’re usually not trying to get a sharp style. You’re going for “loose” and brushes achieve that for you.

For shorter hair, Thad typically recommends sticking with a comb since you’re usually going for more precision with your styling. A comb’s teeth will leave those sharp, crisp lines in your hair. 

While brushes aren’t great for styling, Thad will often combine a brush and comb on a customer’s hair. “Brushes are great for distributing hair product evenly throughout the hair without it clumping up. I also like to use a brush to establish the basic structure of a hairstyle and then go back with a comb to give it a more precise look.”

Many men will therefore want to keep both a brush and a comb on hand.

This helpful information is from Art of Manliness
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6/15/2020 0 Comments

How to Clean a Hairbrush and Why You Should Do It More Often

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We use them every day, relying on them to de-frizz, detangle and generally tame hair, but how much attention do we pay to our hairbrushes?

Whether yours is round, paddle, bristle or boar hair, the reality is that as well as smoothing hair, brushes can also end up collecting spare strands, dead skin, product build-up and oil, leaving them less effective.

Ultimately, this can end up with us distributing dirt or oil back through our hair, resulting in lank locks or hair that lacks shine. Worse still, bristles can become a breeding ground for bacteria or yeast, leading to potential scalp issues.
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Luckily, though, keeping brushes clean is one of the quickest ways to maintain hair health. But, what is the best way, and how often should you do it?
Read on to learn some tips and steps on how to clean a hairbrush.

The Cleaning Steps
While the exact technique varies slightly with each brush type (see farther down this post for more details.), the steps and tools for cleaning your hairbrush are the same:

1. Remove all the hair
First, manually remove any hair lodged in your brush by pulling out what you can by hand, before using the end of a comb (or something similar like a bamboo skewer or tweezers) to remove any remaining strands. If hair build-up is particularly bad, use a pair of scissors to cut away the excess.

2. Pick your cleanser
Just as it works to clean your hair, a gentle shampoo will also thoroughly cleanse brushes. Avoid any harsh detergents, especially if cleaning a natural-bristle brush, which might damage your hair tools, but do pick a shampoo containing sulphates to thoroughly clean them.

Alternatively, a couple of teaspoons of baking soda will also gently cleanse while lifting away dirt and debris.

3. Use warm water
Using warm, not hot, water, fill a medium-sized bowl and add your chosen detergent.

4. Don’t skip the details
After cleansing your brush according to its type and what it is made of (see below for more details on how to clean each type of hairbrush), if dirt remains, use a toothbrush soaked in your cleaning solution to gently remove the rest. There are also special brush cleaners of different shapes.

5. Dry brush carefully
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Finally, dry carefully, laying the brushes with their bristles down on a paper or hand towel, before letting them dry overnight to make sure all moisture is gone.
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Different Kinds of Hairbrushes
Whether it’s plastic, metal or natural material, the type of brush will dictate exactly how it needs to be cleansed and how to avoid damaging it.

Paddle brushes: As one of the most helpful tools in any haircare enthusiasts kit, paddle brushes are great for blow drying and smoothing hair. So, to keep locks looking their best, make sure to clean your paddle hairbrush thoroughly by dipping a toothbrush in your cleansing solution and gently going over the roots of bristles and the brush pad itself.

Never fully submerge the brush pad itself in water as this can lead to moisture building up behind the bristles, causing mildew or mould to form.

Bristle brushes: Whether a round brush or small styling tool, nylon-bristle brushes are one of the most common hair-care tools. And, although it may take a little while longer to remove all the hair from the small bristles, after doing so they can be cleaned in the same way as paddle brushes; using a toothbrush soaked in your cleansing solution to cleanse bristles and pads.

Plastic brushes: Rigid plastic brushes like combs or wet brushes are perhaps the easiest to cleanse since they are often wide-toothed (meaning more space between each bristle so less hair gets trapped there) and are also able to be fully submerged in water.

Pretty much the most robust brush types, these can be kept in water for 20 minutes to dislodge any oil and dirt before using a toothbrush to remove any excess grime.

Wooden brushes: Eco-friendly and often long-lasting, wooden brushes can be kind on the hair and the environment. But, to avoid having to replace them, the wood needs to be kept in good condition.

Therefore, you need to clean wooden hairbrushes with care, using a cleansing solution-soaked toothbrush again; except this time, make sure to use only the gentlest shampoo or other cleanser. Similarly, try to not allow the brush to get too wet as it may have trouble drying out fully, leading to potential mildew issues.

Boar brushes: Boar brushes are one of the oldest forms of hair tools and are typically recommended by stylists for their ability to absorb hair’s natural oils, distributing them evenly along strands and helping to keep ends moisturised.

These natural bristles can be delicate, however, so take care to cleanse them the same way as wooden brushes; using the gentlest cleansers and never allowing them to get too wet.

Men’s brushes: Finally, men’s brushes need to be kept clean, too. Depending on its type and material, use the guide above to gently cleanse any hairbrushes that are designed specifically for men.

How Often to Clean?

How often you should clean your hairbrush depends on several factors, including what it’s made of, how much product you tend to use, and whether you have any other hair issues like dandruff or head lice.

For all brush types, though, make sure to manually remove hair build up at least once a week to help reduce product build up and to give your brush the best chance of detangling and smoothing hair.

For plastic, nylon or metal brushes, aim to wash them once a month. If your hair is prone to product build-up, though, up this to once every three weeks.

For boar bristles and wooden brushes, cleanse every other month to avoid damaging the tool itself. If you use a lot of products in your hair, however, wash the brushes every six weeks.

What About Dandruff?

For scalp conditions like dandruff, keeping brushes clean of lint, dirt and oil is especially important to avoid irritating sensitive skin further and to prevent build-up of yeast, which can exacerbate the condition. When a hairbrush is kept clean, brushing can actually be good for dandruff by removing dead skin cells and distributing oils throughout hair.

Take care to clean a hairbrush with dandruff by using an anti-dandruff shampoo containing anti-fungal ingredients, such as tea tree oil to limit yeast and bacteria growth. Similarly, wash brushes more often than normal — around every two weeks for plastic, nylon or metal brushes, or once a month for boar bristle or wooden brushes.

Don’t Let Head Lice Bug You

Finally, if you or someone in your household has had head lice, take special steps to clean the brush thoroughly to avoid spreading lice and their eggs farther. Place brushes in hot (not boiling) water for at least 15 minutes to kill any remaining bugs without damaging the tool itself. Alternatively, remove hair from the brush and place in a sealed bag in the freezer for at least 12 hours.

After killing all the lice, cleanse the brush as normal, according to its type using the guide above.

Keeping your brushes clean is one of the quickest (and cheapest) ways to keep hair looking healthy. Understanding how to clean a hairbrush easily — and how often — could also help extend the life of any expensive tools, meaning less money on brushes and more for the things you love.
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I found these brush cleaning tips at The Right Hairstyles
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6/13/2020 0 Comments

Do Blow Dryers Actually Spread Coronavirus?

Salons are starting to open their doors — but your appointment may look a little different.
* Bay Area Salons may not be re-opening until mid-July
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Here’s What Experts Say About Salon Safety
  • Hair salons are beginning to open after being closed for several weeks due to the coronavirus pandemic.
  • Connecticut recently banned the use of blowf dryers in hair salons due to safety concerns. The ban has since been reversed.
  • We spoke with an infectious disease expert and salon owners about how to prevent the spread of COVID-19 during hair appointments.

Salons have been closed for months due to the coronavirus pandemic, but as states slowly start reopening, businesses are grappling with the safest way to open their doors. After all, a stylist and client can’t stand six feet away from each other and salons are often small, enclosed spaces. A new concern that’s also recently popped up: Can services like blow drying spread germs?

Recently, Connecticut Governor Ned Lamont announced that local hair salons could reopen on May 20, but they would not be allowed to use blow dryers. He later reversed the restriction.

So, what’s the deal? We spoke with an infectious disease expert to break down the risks of heading back to the salon, as well as stylists to find out what they’re doing to keep clients safe.

Back up: How does the novel coronavirus spread in hair salons?

COVID-19 can spread in hair salons the same way it spreads anywhere: “The number one way coronavirus spreads is through respiratory droplets from someone who is sick,” says Michael A. Ben-Aderet, M.D., infectious disease specialist and associate medical director of Hospital Epidemiology at Cedars-Sinai in Los Angeles.

And while viruses can’t grow on surfaces, Dr. Ben-Aderet says they can persist on certain surfaces for a particular amount of time. One study found that the novel coronavirus can survive up to three hours in the air, up to four hours on copper, up to 24 hours on cardboard, and up to two to three days on plastic and stainless steel.

So, touching a surface that is contaminated “with secretions or mucus membranes from a sick individual and then touching your face can make you sick,” he explains, adding that “it’s important to remember that viruses need to grow in a person.”

Still, Center for Disease Control and Detection (CDC) maintains that this isn’t thought to be the driving force of COVID-19 transmission, as viruses need hosts to replicate. After no human contact, the virus will eventually die on the surface—it’s just that experts aren’t exactly sure how long that takes.

Can blow dryers really spread coronavirus germs?

The thinking behind this makes some sense, but there isn’t any concrete data to back it up. A blow dryer does have the potential to spread contaminated air around a room, Dr. Ben-Aderet explains—but again, there needs to be an infected person around. “Unless someone coughs into a hair dryer and that spreads the droplets, it’s very unlikely,” he says.

As for the device itself? “I think it would be unlikely for a hair dryer to be contaminated with coronavirus,” he adds.

The CDC says that “it is unknown how long the air inside a room occupied by someone with confirmed COVID-19 remains potentially infectious.” However, bigger, well-ventilated rooms “will help shorten the time it takes respiratory droplets to be removed from the air.”

How can hair salons prevent the spread of COVID-19?

Safety standards for hair salons will vary according to state, but there are some precautions salons can implement to keep their clients healthy.

When possible, it’s important to ensure that people entering the salon aren’t currently sick. One way to do this is to screen clients before appointments to make sure those who are sick reschedule if they have a fever, cough, or shortness of breath, Dr. Ben-Aderet suggests.

He adds that “hair salons should minimize the amount of people in a room by having people wait outside and not come in until their scheduled appointment.” Then, hair stylists and clients should wear face masks, practice good hand hygiene, and avoid touching their faces.

How U.S. hair salons are reopening

Because small businesses like hair salons have taken financial hits, we wanted to hear from salon owners about how they planned to open back up.

For Suelyn Farel, CEO of Julien Farel Salon and Spa in New York City, it’s all about safety. “The biggest challenge will be to ensure that our customers and employees feel safe to come into our salon and spa,” she says. “It is a business where people come in close proximity to each other, so with the correct protective gear and measures, we hope everyone will be confident that we are as super-clean.”

She says “no one can enter the business without a mask and having their temperature taken. We’re taking extreme measures—like putting handbags into plastic bags and handing out individually wrapped wipes to each client for their phone/glasses.”

Crystal Witz, owner of Vintage Rose Salon and Spa in Placer County, California, plans to install a hospital-grade air purifier into her salon. Surfaces will be frequently cleaned, too. “All salon chairs, hair washing stations, hair drying chairs and styling tools will be disinfected between each client,” she says. “Hand sanitizing stations will be placed at each entrance to the salon.”

Mario Solis, owner and founder of The Hair Studio, will not allow guests of clients into the hair salon to enforce social distancing measures.

Dawn James, master stylist at Salon Concepts, says she’s had to cut back on business to compensate for social distancing. “I’ve extended my working hours, so I only work with one client at a time,” she says.

All stylists said that they would continue to provide blow outs at the end of their clients’ appointments, unless the government restricts them from doing so or the client declines.

“Although I cannot speak to the epidemiological risks in blow drying, I can speak to the happiness I see in clients’ eyes when they see their hair freshly done and styled,” James says. “I would hope that if blow dryers spreading germs caused serious alarm, there would be that kind of data out there well before the pandemic occurred.”

You can find the full article at Prevention
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6/13/2020 0 Comments

Hair by Brian selected 2020 San Francisco Small Business Excellence Award - Men's Hair Salons

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Press Release
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
___________________________________________

Hair by Brian selected for 2020 San Francisco Small Business Excellence Award
​ - Men’s Hair Salons -

San Francisco, - 06/13/2020 — Hair by Brian has been selected for the 2020 San Francisco Small Business Excellence Award in the Men's Hair Salons classification by the San Francisco Small Business Excellence Award Program.

Each year we select small businesses that have achieved great success in the San Francisco area. Your business is among those that lead small businesses in the area with fantastic service to their customers and community.

Various sources of information were gathered and analyzed to choose the winners in each category. The 2020 San Francisco Small Business Excellence Award Program focuses on quality, not quantity. Winners are determined based on the information gathered both internally by the San Francisco Small Business Excellence Award Program and data provided by third parties.

The San Francisco Small Business Excellence Awards

Each year, the San Francisco Small Business Excellence Awards chooses only excellent local small businesses. We focus on companies that have demonstrated their ability to use great marketing methods and excellent customer service to grow their business in spite of difficult economic times. The companies chosen exemplify the best of small business; often leading through great service and community involvement. For most companies, this recognition is a result of your dedication and efforts as well as the work of others in your organization that have helped build your business. Your team is now a part of an exclusive group of small businesses that have achieved this selection.

About the San Francisco Small Business Excellence Awards Program

The San Francisco Small Business Excellence Awards recognizes outstanding small businesses that serve the San Francisco area. Each year, our selection committee identifies businesses that we believe have achieved outstanding marketing success in their local community and business classification.

Recognition is given to those companies that have shown the ability to use their best practices and implemented programs to generate competitive advantages and long-term value. These are small businesses that enhance the positive image of small business through service to their customers and our community. These exceptional companies help make the San Francisco area a vibrant and vital place to live.​

The San Francisco Small Business Excellence Awards was established to reward the best of small businesses in San Francisco. Our organization works exclusively with local business owners, trade groups, professional associations and other business advertising and marketing groups. Our mission is to award the small business community’s contributions to the U.S. economy.


About Hair by Brian:
Brian Fisher is an independent hairstylist located in the Union Square/FiDi area of San Francisco specializing in Men’s and Women’s haircuts and haircolor.  As a business owner he has been recognized and awarded numerous times as an outstanding Men’s Hair Salon.  With over 20 years in the hair salon industry and 10+ years working behind the chair, Brian has the experience to provide clients with some of the best hair care in the San Francisco Bay Area.   Brian takes the time to listen to your personal preferences and posses the skills, craft, and experience to bring that vision to life for you.   
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6/10/2020 0 Comments

What Is Hair Density and Why Does It Matter?

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Typically, when we’re categorizing our hair and how to treat it, we’re looking at how thick or long it is. We’ll also look at what texture it is and whether or not it’s processed to determine how often we need a trim. But another, lesser-known metric that should be taken into consideration is hair density.

Um, what exactly is hair density?

Simply put, hair density is the number of individual strands per square inch on your scalp. (Fun fact: The average person has approximately 2,200 strands of hair per square inch on their head. The average person also sheds between 50 and 100 hairs per day.)
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While hair thinness or thickness refers to the circumference of each strand, hair density refers to how thin or thick the collective group of hairs is. That said, someone could have very fine hair that is also very dense (meaning they have a lot of fine hairs per square inch), or they could have thick, but low-density hair (meaning they have thick strands but not so many of them per square inch).
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How do I figure out what my hair density is? 
Though you could bust out a microscope and get to counting if you really want to kill some time, the much easier way to measure your hair density is to just look at your ponytail.

To do this, tie your hair back and measure the circumference of your tail. If it’s less than two inches, you have low-density hair, if it’s two to three inches, you have medium-density hair and if it’s four or more inches thick in circumference, you have high-density hair.

For ladies (and gentlemen) who have a short bob or pixie that can’t be pulled back into a ponytail, take a closer look at your scalp. If you can easily see it without touching or moving your hair around, you likely have low-density hair. If your scalp is somewhat visible from the top of your head, then you have medium-density hair. And if your scalp is barely visible then you have high-density hair.

Since we’re measuring things now, how do you measure your hair thickness?

There are two main ways to go about this. (One is decidedly less painful than the other, but it also depends on how long your hair is.) The first option is to pluck a single strand of hair from your head. We’d recommend pulling one from the back of your head as opposed to a spot in the front.

Now compare the strand to a piece of thread. If the strand is thinner than the thread, you have thin hair. If your hair is the same width as the thread, you have medium hair. If your strand is wider than the thread, you have thick hair.

The other way to test for hair thickness (which is easier if you have longer hair) is to grab a single strand between your fingers and feel it. If you can barely feel anything, you have thin hair and if you can feel it, you have thicker hair. This method is (ahem) a hair less precise than the former, but it will give you a general idea.

Great, now what do I do with this info?

You mean other than having another fascinating tidbit to share the next time you’re in a conversational lull with someone? (We kid.)

In all seriousness, knowing your hair density is helpful in figuring out what products to use, how to style your hair and how to cut it.

What should I do if I have low-density hair?

For low-density hair, you’ll want to steer clear of heavier creams and butters and instead opt for lightweight styling products that won’t weigh your hair down, like leave-in sprays, dry shampoos or volumizing foams and/or mousses.

As for what to tell your stylist? You want straight or rounded ends (over feathered cuts or layers) to create more weight and add fullness to your style.

What are your tips for medium-density hair?

For medium-density hair, you can use a variety of products to enhance your natural texture. For example, try a mousse and dry shampoo to boost volume at the roots—or creams and butters to calm down the lengths of your hair.

And how should I approach high-density hair?

For high-density hair, you’ll want a product with heavier hold like a gel, a cream or a styling butter—especially if you have curly or coily and dense hair. This will help hold your strands together and minimize any puffiness (a la Hermione Granger pre- Goblet of Fire glow up).
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High-density hair has a tendency to look and feel a bit heavy, so you can ask your stylist to remove some excess weight (or debulk) your hair. Avoid blunt ends, which can create that pyramid effect, and for any cut that’s above your shoulders, make sure your stylist carefully thins out your ends to lighten things up and give your overall style some movement.
 
You can find this article on PureWow
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    My name is Brian and I help people confidently take on the world.

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