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4/10/2019 0 Comments

The Best Guide for the Comb-Over Fades

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What do Brad Pitt, Drake and Cillian Murphy all have in common, aside from being in the top five of your girlfriend’s sexual freebie list? No, not money. Well actually, yes, that too. But we’re talking about the fact they’re all famous for sporting a sharp, handsome fade haircut. You know the type: styled on top, razor short on the sides and back – a look suspended impossibly between V05 model and special forces soldier.

And that’s no coincidence. Fashion is never far from the military (think peacoats, crew necks, combats, boots, anything navy – even watches were born out of the trenches). Hairstyles are no different. Buzz cuts, undercuts and crops all have their roots on the front lines.

Yes, yes. We know. You want to be on the front line too – the front line of fashion. You see yourself at the vanguard of personal preening, going over the top like the brave and well-moisturised soldier you are. That’s why a fade haircut is for you; it’s the advanced guard of military haircuts, edgy where a regular short back and sides is soft.

But when you add a sharp parting line, you raise this cut to a whole new rank entirely.

What Is A Comb-Over Fade?

It’s a specific take on the fade but with a smarter finish. First, it pays to understand the fade itself. “This describes the look created when you taper the hair from extremely short, or even bald – a skin fade – then blend it seamlessly into longer hair on sides and top,” says Patrick Kidd of Patricks barbers and grooming. “Technically, it’s one of the hardest cuts in the game. But when it’s done well, in my opinion, it’s the best.”

It’s important to make a distinction here – one that can make or break your desired look. “This shouldn’t be confused with ‘taper’, when your hair gradually changes from one length to another,” says Kidd. “A fade is shorter than a taper and ends when it reaches the skin, essentially ‘fading’ in.” Kidd recommends you make sure you’re going to a barber in the know. A good fade requires skilled hands.

The comb-over part simply refers to what’s left on top, and we’re not talking about a Trump-style flyover. Instead, it’s a sharp side-parting, with a clearly defined line. It could be long or short or swept back depending on your style.

Why Are They So Popular Right Now?

It seems like everyone wants to join the Peaky Blinders these days. But this cut isn’t on the up just because of Tommy and the gang; it’s gaining popularity because it’s a chance for barbers to really showcase their craft as well.

“The resurgence of the barber as a trade has a lot to do with it,” says Kidd. “Fades are being done to such a high level, with expertise and skill, that if you see a really good one it’s almost mesmerising. They look so clean and tight.”

In other words, barbers want to do fade cuts. That makes them the cut of choice for many influencers, which Kidd believes further boosts the fade’s popularity. “Youtube and Instagram are packed with how-to fade videos,” he says. But you don’t need them, of course. You’ve got us.

Will A Comb-over Fade Work For Me?

You needn’t be Jake Gyllenhaal in Southpaw to look like a winner with a fade. “It’s generally a flattering cut, making the head and face seem less round or circular,” says Kidd. Be careful with the styling on top, though, especially if you’re noticing a few more hairs in the sink when you wash your mop.

“Combing over emphasises your hairline,” cautions Oran Lasocki from barbershop chain Ruffians. That means thin hair will look even thinner. If you’re balding, a buzz cut fade or Caesar cut fade would work much better.

If your face shape is long or thin, it’s also a good idea to keep the fade low on the head if you definitely want one. The style naturally elongates your neck and head, so on the wrong person it can kind of make you look like a tortoise.
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The Best Fade VariationsTell your scissorsmith to hang up his tool for the moment. “A fade is usually done with hair clippers,” says Kidd. “Your barber will change the guard length to blend the hair from short to long to create the fade effect.” Below, Kidd outlines his guide to the best fades for your head.
Skin Fade
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“This is what you ask for when you want the cut or fade short and tight. The barber or hairdresser will generally start with a zero blade length on the clippers and fade the hair into whatever style you are after. It can look a little harsh for a few days but will also last longer than a tapered or longer fade. A good barber may even use a straight razor or electric shaver around the perimeter of the cut.”
High Fade
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“I personally love a high fade. I have a pretty round head and the higher you take the fade on the sides, the more elongated your head and face appears. It’s up to you how short you would like it but the fade itself usually happens higher up the head to avoid that triangular shape. Entirely up to you where you’d like the fade to connect to the top, too.”
Low Fade
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“If you have a longer style on top and you want to maintain some length or volume on the sides, then ask for a low fade. This will make the look seem fresh without having to go too short with the main cut. This can sometimes make your head look a bit more triangular, so make sure it suits your face shape.”
Pro Tip
“Never fade above the occipital bone [that lump in the back of your head]. If you go above this it will look bad, trust me.”
The Best Comb-Over Fade Variations For The Top
The most important thing is to go to a barber who understands how the cut and fade combo will work with your face shape. “A good stylist will create a really flattering silhouette that will grow out well,” says Kidd. “As with most things in life, you get what you pay for.”
The Side Part
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If any haircut can truly be called timeless, it’s the side part. “It can be created with any hair length, ensuring you maintain the part,” says Lasocki. “You will want to ensure you have some length on top, allowing you to brush it over to the side to create the clean parting. This is typically from the side point of your recession, working with the direction of your hair.”

Will it suit me? While a massively receding hairline might look a bit Mr Burns when combed over, this is generally a very versatile style. “It can work with any hair type,” says Lasocki. “But if you have curly hair you will have to make sure to properly blow dry and use the appropriate product.”
​
Get the look: Ask for the particular guard length you want on the top of the back and sides, and to maintain length on the side where your parting is – this will help emphasise the clean look of the parting. Then, it should fade down from there.
The Slick Back
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​We’re teetering on hipster territory here. That said, done right, the slick back parted fade equals guaranteed handsome points. “Similar to the side part, this is another classic style, which also works with medium or long hair,” says Lasocki. “With the right height it can really square off the face.”

Will it suit me? As above, but times 10. “This style is best for people with a stronger hairline and hair that is not thinning out,” says Lasocki. “You are going to be slicking your hair back it will only emphasise your hairline.” Proceed with caution all ye Jude Law-alikes.
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Get the look: You’re asking for a cut almost identical to the side part but with more length on the top. Then it’s all in the styling. “The slick back is traditionally completed with a high-shine product such as a pomade to help bring it closer to the scalp, ensuring it can be properly slicked,” says Lasocki. “Put the product into towel dry/damp hair, then blow dry it with a Denman brush to ensure there’s plenty of volume. When you’ve got the desired shape apply your pomade or paste to complete the look.”
Buzz Cut
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A buzz cut parting is kind of a cheat’s version of a comb-over, in that it’s not a parting per se. But it allows people with thinner hair to get in on the divided-do action. As the line is actually shaved into the hair, you’ll either look like a shoplifter or Zayn Malik.

Will it suit me? “This style can be used by anyone,” says Lasocki. “Of course, it is one that people will go to if they are struggling with a weak hairline or thinning hair as it doesn’t draw attention to balding areas while simultaneously squaring off the head.”
​
Get the look: “Ask for the top of your hair to be taken down to a grade two or three,” says Losacki. Then you need to decide on the parting side with absolute certainty, because it can’t be undone. “Then ask for your fade of choice.
“Due to the short length there is very little to style, you’ll only ever have to towel dry or you can use the hairdryer to save time. However, if you have thick and unruly hair, you can add a strong-hold product like a thick pomade or clay that will maintain it throughout the day.”

These classic hairstyling tips are from FashionBeans
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4/7/2019

Instagram Trend Alert: The Shag

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Scroll through your feed and you’ll likely notice an uptick in the number of Instagram posts showcasing curtain fringe, disheveled layers and natural texture. Put simply: The shag is back. We spoke with two shag experts—Bree Ritter (@goodbyehorsegirl) of Portland, Oregon, and Jayne Matthews (@jayne_edosalon) of San Francisco—who share their takes on this versatile cut.
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What do your clients love most about shag haircut? 
Bree Ritter: It’s just so... easy. I love how a shag looks good on every person, yet each cut looks unique because each client’s individual texture and facial features make the cut one-of-a-kind. Most of my clients say they use little to no styling products and let their hair air-dry. I encourage many to wash their hair less often and use dry shampoo and a curl spray to reintroduce natural texture and get that full, lived-in effect. Having the right haircut is such an underestimated luxury.
Jayne Matthews: Most of my shag clients only need to have their hair cut once every eight months. This haircut is the gift that keeps on giving when done properly. It never gets heavy or lumpy because of the way that it’s textured when done thoughtfully. ​
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Is the shag a difficult cut to master? 
JM:
 Yes. It takes being able to read texture and growth patterns in a very specific way. Anyone can cut hair and make it look messy, but being able to have the hair frame the face beautifully and work with someone’s natural texture and bone structure takes skill; when you do it right the grow-out will be gorgeous.
BR: For me cutting shags came really naturally—the trick was more about learning how to wield my razor properly without cutting myself. [Laughs] I think once the whole idea behind the haircut clicks, you then get to start playing around with different variations and taking more risks. I can’t wait to see more people cutting in this style!
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Do you think the shag will continue to gain popularity? 
JM:
 Yes, I do. It’s an incredible haircut for people growing out their hair because it frames the face and makes wearing the hair up look interesting
and adorable. 
BR: Oh, yes, 100 percent. I think shag-style cuts are so classic and natural—they’ve always been a look that exudes power, confidence and style.
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This article is from Beauty LaunchPad

4/5/2019 0 Comments

False Marketing Promises Are An Enormous Obstacle To CBD Beauty Growth

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​Dazed And Confused:
False Marketing Promises Are An Enormous
​Obstacle To CBD Beauty Growth

Confusion over CBD product ingredients could prove the biggest obstacle to the cannabis category’s growth.
That’s the conclusion of three experts with diverse experiences in the CBD space participating in last week’s Well + Good Talks panel discussion at Made by We in New York City. They emphasized that the challenge for brands in the skyrocketing CBD trade is demystifying exactly what they’re selling amid a flood of hemp-related products.

The global legal cannabis industry is expected to triple by 2022 to $32 billion, according to research from Arcview and BDS Analytics, with beauty and personal care expected to nab a fair share of sales. The Brightfield Group projects revenue in the CBD sector will hit $22 billion by 2022. Despite the large figures, CBD beauty remains a nascent segment subject to misunderstanding, fear and hype.

A Well + Good study of 1,000 readers, who are leaders in embracing wellness trends, revealed one in four have tried CBD, suggesting the ingredient isn’t quite as ubiquitous as the buzz around it implies. Senior editor Jessie Van Amburg said they want to grasp the science behind CBD-based products. That’s been a tall order, especially because there are a myriad of products on the market with questionable claims.

A lack of federal regulation has made CBD marketing a free for all. When Anthony Saniger, founder and CEO of Standard Dose, was prepping the launch of his online resource—and soon to be physical store—centered on CBD products, he discovered brands with misleading packaging. “They didn’t say truthful things,” he said. “They listed a certain milligram of CBD, but they didn’t have anything [in the product]. They were saying, ‘We cure everything,’ which is kind of snake oil.”

To cut through the clutter, Saniger said Standard Dose features a glossary of terms on its website. Brands available on the site not only provide their lab testing, but Standard Dose conducts its own to verify the testing results supplied by brands. Saniger asserted, “I tell people to double check that the product is a really good product and does not have THC because, if it does, you may get high.”

There’s a need for more transparency and greater testing in the industry, stressed Chelsea Leyland, a medical cannabis and epilepsy activist. “In terms of purchasing, you have to see first if there are even cannabinoids in the product,” she said. “I feel fed up and disappointed when I see companies calling themselves a CBD product when, in fact, it is mascara with a hemp oil in it. You are essentially lying to the consumer.”

Leyland pointed out hemp was legalized in the U.S. last year upon the passage of the Farm Bill, which played an enormous role in setting off the current CBD rush. “So, when you see products in a gas station or Whole Foods, they are derived from hemp,” she explained. Although CBD is derived from hemp, hemp oil without it has infiltrated the consumer goods universe.

Beyond not getting what consumers pay for, Leyland underscores the dearth of regulation and testing can be dangerous. She said, “You need testing to ensure quality and testing for metal since cannabis sucks up toxins from the ground.”

Compounding the problem, the experts agreed that, without the proper product vetting, users could potentially apply or ingest THC and, as a result, have an undesired high. Van Amburg said, “CBD is not supposed to get you high, but there is a study talking about how, when some CBD products were sampled, some of them had 53% THC.”

As CBD products spread, Mary Pryor, co-founder and CEO of Cannaclusive, recommended caution in selecting an outlet for purchasing them. “Here are some red flags…bodega CBD, normally not the way to go,” she said. “The reason is because that CBD is being sourced from places where there is not a regulated market, and there are a lot of additives or concerning growing procedures.”

As the industry gets sorted out, one myth being debunked is that sales will be driven only by millennials and gen Z. Saniger admitted his initial playbook was hyper-focused on young consumers. But after an 80-year old woman asked him about CBD for arthritis, he shifted gears to be age inclusive. “It is not the trendy thing to just add to your coffee to have fun,” he said. “It can help with serious issues people are dealing with and, hopefully, [there will be] trials to help figure out how to cure these things.”

Peering ahead, Pryor said the industry will be delving into the wide array of cannabis components such as THCA, THCB, CBC and CBG in addition to CBD. She said, “This is what everyone is working on now. Most pharma companies are paying to get greater extractions to get hybrid versions. That’s the next wave. People are looking outside just the CBD category.”

Saniger is dialed into finding out how terpenes, which give cannabis its odor, can be mixed with cannabinoids for custom blends. “Everybody’s combination is very different, and I am excited to see what those differences are and how we incorporate them into products,” he said. “I’m looking for how we can have better absorption rates, especially in beauty products. Also, how we can get smarter using technology that will help develop those things, especially in the beauty space.”
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This is from Beauty Independent
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4/1/2019 0 Comments

As the Chair Turns - April 2019

Happy Spring to you all.  

Last month I shared a few articles about CBD oil.  Now that retailers like CVS and Walgreens will be carrying it you really need to be even more informed about ingredients, purity and what it is you are actually buying.  I have another article for you this month that will hopefully help with some of your questions.

The way I cut hair has evolved over the years.  A lot in part because of trends and how you are wearing and styling your hair.  Haircuts are less structured, more tousled, and wash & wear these days.  A lot of this has to do with busy schedules and not wanting to spend hours doing your hair.

I’m sure you’ve already noticed I include articles on trending hairstyles.   The trending cut for women is the Shag.  Yes, the Shag is back.  It’s easy to care for and, if cut to suit your hair type and texture, will allow you to go a little longer between hair cuts.   Even with men’s hairstyles trending longer, guys still asking for a classic haircut.   The “barbering” tend of the last few years has been a huge contributing factor.   So, while women want hairstyles that are easy to care for and can also stretch out the time between appointments, guys are spending more time in the salon/barber chair maintaining their coif.  

The way we care for our hair has also changed.  Hair products have become more gentle, less damaging, not just to your locks but for the environment.  I have an article for you with some helpful tips on washing your hair differently in order to save the environment.  

Do you know the difference between a mole and skin cancer?    The tanning we did in our youth, 20+ years ago, is now  showing up as either sun damage or melanoma skin cancer.      I’ll keep an eye on your scalp and let you know if I see anything that looks unusual, but there may be other areas on your body that need a real doctor to check out.  I, myself, have regular follow up visits with my dermatologist.  About a year ago I did a skin treatment, basically liquid kemo, on a few areas on my face.  It (and I) wasn’t pretty, but it was a valuable proactive procedure.  If you have any doubt about that spot on your skin I have an article for you that might inform you on whether or not you need to make an appointment with your dermatologist.  

80’s hair, hair dye, mobile passports, hair extensions, and lice?  Yup, lice.

All that and more.  Check it all out below. 
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What’s Inside This Month

False Marketing Promises about CBD Beauty Growth
Trend Alert: The Shag is Back
Change the Way You Wash Your Hair - Save the Environment
Frizzy or Flaky? A Natural Remedy to Hydrated, Tame, and Repair
The Best Guide for Comb-Over Fades
Game of Thrones: Daenerys Targaryen’s Hairstyle
How Hair Dye Works
Fringe Benefits: Ukraine’s Hair Extension Industry
How Can You Tell If It’s a Mole or Skin Cancer?
How Lice Turn Your Hair Into Their Jungle Gym
The Story of Hair: How Did the 80’s Get Hair So Big?
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