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11/30/2018

What your hair is REALLY trying to tell you

From low iron levels to poor diet
and digestion:

What your hair is REALLY trying to tell you
When it comes to bad hair days, often we attribute them to falling asleep with wet hair, a bad blow dry or simply neglecting to wash our locks before work.

But in fact, the state of our mane can be down to our lifestyle as well.

From the hair type that depicts low iron levels to the warning signs your locks are giving you that your diet and digestion are poor, here, with the help of leading Australian trichologist, Jane Davies, FEMAIL reveals what your hair is trying to tell you.

1. You're stressed

Speaking to FEMAIL, Jane revealed that if your hair is looking worse than it did a few months ago, it could be more than a bad hair day:

'If your pony tail is getting thinner, if your hair is more brittle or if your hair doesn't grow as quickly or as long as it used to, it could be a sign that your body is stressed, or deficient in nutrients or other more medical or physiological issues,' she said.

'It's important to realize that hair vitality only comes about when the body is healthy.

'As hair cells are the second fasting growing cells in the body, they are dependent on every part of the body working synergistically and optimally together to provide the best possible hair growth.'

2. Your diet and digestion are poor

While you might think the signs that your diet and digestion are poor are mostly around your waistline, a diet laden with sugar, fat and carbs can also manifest in your tresses:

'Hair loss or thinning is a common consequence of somebody who does not provide the hair follicles with the correct amount of nutrition they require to function at the optimal level,' Jane explained.

As a a result of a bad diet, you might experience hair loss and thinning, and Jane highlighted that this is especially the case when you crash diet and cut out specific food groups, such as good sources of animal protein:

'When we eat a good source of bioavailable protein it's broken down in our stomachs into amino acids and this is a crucial part in producing strong healthy hair cells,' she explained.

'Also, if there are any underlying gut health issues, such as low stomach acid, intestinal permeability or candida overgrowth, these can also cause nutritional deficiencies and have a detrimental effect on hair growth and scalp health.'  

3. Your pill is messing with you

We all know the contraceptive pill has a huge impact on our hormones, but what about our hair?

According to Jane, it's 'becoming all too common for trichologists to come across young women who have been taking a high androgen index contraceptive pill that is causing some issues with hair growth and reduction of volume through the top part of the scalp'.

She said that if you suspect you have any hair thinning because of the contraceptive pill, you should consult a trichologist who may say you need treatment to reverse the progressive thinning pattern.

4. Your have low iron levels

As explained before, Jane said your hair can often show off the results of a diet low in iron and good sources of animal protein.

'The hair growth cycle will most often be the first thing to be affected, and the last thing to recover when you have deficiency in an essential micronutrient,' Jane explained.

'Telogen Effluvium - or excess hair shedding - is the hair loss pattern you are most likely to see.

'However, long term most nutritional deficiencies can also cause poor quality new hair, as the hair is not being replaced "like for like".'

The expert added that nutritional deficiencies affect the 'overall density of the hair shaft, which can make the hair become weak and brittle'.

If you're not a fan of meat and fish sources of iron, then make sure your hair is getting the adequate nutrients by opting for some eggs, pulses and beans and wholegrains in your diet.

5. You are washing your hair too little or too much

Last but not least, a question that is debated a lot by hairdressers and trichologists is whether we wash our hair too little or too much.

'I get asked this daily and it's my favorite question to answer,' Jane revealed.

'The skin on the scalp is an extension of the skin on your face. It's covered with 120,000 hair follicles which produce sebum (oil) continuously to keep your skin supple and help to maintain the correct pH balance.'

Jane outlined that 'contrary to what people think, regular shampooing is not in any way detrimental to your hair or scalp.

'In fact, done correctly and with the right products, it actually re-moisturises the hair.'

She said that if you refrain from washing your hair too much, then the oils will collect dirt and that dirt will sit there until you remove it.

Jane concluded that if you have any scalp issues, 'such as persistent flaking, oiliness or itching, you will see some improvement if you start shampooing more frequently.'  

So no need to feel guilty if you're a daily hair washer, then.

Jane Davies, Founder of The Hair Physio, is a Certified Trichologist and a Member of the World Trichology Society. To find out more, please click here. 
 
This article first appeared on Daily Mail

11/29/2018 0 Comments

Holy Sh*t, Dyson's Newest Hair Tool Curls Your Hair With AIR

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Dyson wants to curl your hair... with air.

Not satisfied with disrupting hair dryers, Dyson is applying its air-blasting motor tech to breathe new life into another area of personal haircare: curlers and stylers. The Dyson Airwrap can curl hair, add volume, or get frizzy hair under control. And it does so without the extreme heat that can sometimes cause damage, instead using jets of air to grab and style the hair, one shock at a time.

The Airwrap is the second product Dyson has made for the personal-care market, the first being the Supersonic hair dryer. Like the Supersonic, the Airwrap uses a tiny version of the company's V9 motor that run at 110,000 rpm's to blast air at high speed.

Also like the Supersonic (and every Dyson product for that matter), the Airwrap commands a hefty premium above what most folks are used to paying for personal haircare products. Whereas a search on Amazon reveals most curling irons are priced below $50, the Dyson Airwrap starts at $499.99. Even comparing to just stylers that use hot air, like this one from Conair, that's stratospherically high.
​
Still, this is Dyson, so the high price tag is expected. And from what Dyson showed me — I got a chance to check out the Airwrap in a demo session in advance of Tuesday's unveiling — the styler does its job extremely well.
How the Airwrap works
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The Airwrap itself looks just like a lightsaber handle: a glossy, dark gray tube with an air-intake filter on the bottom (the perforated filter pops on and off easily thanks to magnets) and a purple-colored rim on the top end, where the air comes out. There are three switches close to the top for controlling the air flow and temperature. It's also very lightweight — although keep in mind you need to plug it in to use it.

The curler and brush heads attach to the top, each with similar purple-and-gray colors. The curling heads are roughly cylindrical, with arrows on them to tell you the direction of air flow. The rush of air over the surface of the head creates what's called the Coanda effect, which naturally pulls things closer — in this case, hair.

I had never used a curling iron before, so a stylist, Jon Reyman of Spoke & Weal in New York, walked me through my first experience with the Airwrap. Holding a shock of hair (not mine — one of the PR reps was kind enough to lend her hair for the exercise) in one hand, I put the Airwrap underneath and turned it on. Instantly the hair curled itself around the styler, and the closer I moved it toward the person's head, the more hair became wrapped in the Airwrap's effect.
 
While the Airwrap does use heated air, it never heats it beyond 300 degrees Fahrenheit, the company says. Reyman told me that many curling and straightening products on the market today take temperatures up past 400 degrees Fahrenheit, which can cause "catastrophic" damage to hair.

After curling the hair for a few seconds (no more than five), I gave it a "cold shot" of cool air for a second and then turned it off. Pulling the Airwrap away, the blonde shock fell away easily, and instead of straight hair, there was a gentle curl.
 
"Dyson has created what I think is a better mousetrap," Reyman said after we were done. "This [kind of curl] isn't possible without using extreme heat."

Of course, one shock of curl on a head full of straight hair wasn't going to fly for our model, so we broke out a different head to reverse the process. While the Airwrap isn't a hair straightener per se, there are two brush heads that are meant to smooth out frizzy hair and get voluminous curls under control. A few strokes with the Airwrap using a brush head with soft bristles and her hair was passably straight again.

The Airwrap also includes a "pre-styling dryer" head that looks just like the Supersonic. So you could theoretically get the Airwrap to not just be your styler, but your hair dryer as well, although the Supersonic has its own heads and features to give you more flexibility in that regard.
 
Whether you use a separate hair dryer or not, the Airwrap does have a drying effect, and it's intended to be used on damp hair.

"[Normally,] I'll have to blow dry hair and then, if I wanted a curl, I'd have to use a curler, so I'm doing a two-step process," said Reyman. "Here, I can take the hair while it's still damp and work it. So it's a shorter process."

Beauty disruption

Dyson is very clear that the Airwrap is aimed at consumers looking for an easy and effective do-everything styling solution, not stylists who already favor professional equipment.

Since everyone has different hair with different needs, it's offering three different packages, with different sets of heads. All three packages some with the pre-styling dryer and two 1.2-inch curlers.

  • The Volume+Shape set comes with a soft brush for adding body and volume and a round brush for shaping fine, straight hair ($499.99).
  • The Smooth+Control set comes with a firm brush for straightening and calming down frizzy hair and two 1.6-inch curlers for larger curls ($499.99)
  • Then there's the "Complete" package: two of each curler, all three brushes, and the pre-styling dryer ($549.99).

Yes, $500-$550 is a pretty big chunk of change, no matter what package you go for. But from my brief time with the Airwrap, I came away quite impressed. As a curling novice, I felt confident using it after learning the basics, and since it never gets too hot, I wasn't dissuaded by any potential damage I might do.
 
Plus there's something to be said about never having to worry you might burn the house down.

This article appeared on Mashable.   
Cosmo also had a write-up as well as The New York Times

0 Comments

11/25/2018 0 Comments

Are You Driving Your Barber/Stylist Crazy?

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We asked, they confessed.

Considering that barbers and hair stylists dedicate their lives to making you a better-looking person, their good side is a fruitful place to be. And when you think about the fact that they're regularly coming at you with sharp objects, having your hair person like you can even make for good preemptive self-defense. So we asked an array of folks in the business to tell all—confess what, exactly, annoys them about the person sitting in their hydraulic chairs. Before we get to the juicy stuff, the fine barbers and hair stylists we asked to confess their client's bad habits wanted us to let you know that there is no crisis of manners happening in salons across the nation. Actually, they say 99% of you are really good at sitting there and getting your haircut (though it's not that hard so don't congratulate yourselves quite yet).

Leave Yoko at home

"It's really uncomfortable when their significant other is standing over your shoulder directing the cut," says just about every barber from almost every city. Fair enough, nobody likes being micromanaged, so if your lady friend insists on controlling your hair, either go to her person or take notes so you can explain what she wants yourself.

Don't think you can get away with a video chat either. "I find it insulting," says a barber in a New York City men's salon.

And, on a side note: if your trusty stylist is a woman and she's even remotely attractive, once your girlfriend meets her, there's a good chance you'll never be allowed to go back. "It's happened," says a bombshell stylist out of NYC.

Stop staring


You keep your eyes open during a shampoo and/or shave. Totally understandable that it can be uncomfortable to be making eye contact with the stranger whose hair you're lathering up, but shaving? Since there's a razor being pressed so close to things like jugular veins, it's a little more difficult to fight the impulse to keep your eyes open.

Don't moan (yes, really)


You moan in ecstasy from a really good shampoo. "That just makes me rush the job," says one regular shampoo-giver in Indianapolis. And if you moan and keep your eyes open at the same time? "Ewwwwwww," she squeals.

Don't cut your own hair

Since you're not five years old, it should go without saying that you shouldn't cut your own hair, but even cleaning up your own neckline can be really frustrating. "I've seen crooked lines, chunks taken out and borders that have been taken up way too high, and they can be difficult to fix," says a barber from San Francisco. A problem easily avoided since many barbershops will clean up your borders for less than a cost of a full cut. Just ask.

Manage your expectations


By all means bring in celebrity photos, but understand that, "We give haircuts, we don't rearrange faces," says a hair stylist based in Chicago. So basically, if you want Justin Timberlake's hair, depending on what's physically possible, you can pretty much have it, but that doesn't necessarily mean it'll bring your sexy back.

Keep the conversation light  
(OK, this one doesn't apply to us because I LOVE our conversations) 

"I'm not saying that, as a rule, you shouldn't talk to your stylist about the intricate details of your love life. If you have a very close and long relationship with that person, it's fine. But if that's the case the stylist usually knows your wife and likes her as well. Ninety-nine percent of the time the stylist will never say anything to her, but 99% will tell someone in the salon and it's a small world," says one NYC-based hair stylist. Consider yourself warned. Keep your personal life to yourself.

Don't wear earphones

Remove them. Or, put another way, don't be an asshole to your stylist. One DC-based men's stylist tells us of a customer who insists on getting cut with his oversized Beats by Dre firmly planted on his ears and then gets frustrated when the stylist accidentally knocks them during the cut. Don't be that guy.

Brush your teeth and put on some deodorant


Unleashing a torrent of malodorous breath or body odor on any person in close proximity who is also holding scissors is not a good idea. It's even worse when you're depending on them to take their time to make you look good. "Do what you can to make your breath not stink, just don't chew gum," says a barber out of Austin Texas.

Stay still, goddammit

There's a sharp object near your face and you squirming only distracts the person holding it. This annoys your barber and could turn out poorly for your ear.

Hair length doesn't determine price

Short hair isn't always less work than long hair. If getting a simple one-length-all-over buzz, don't go to an expensive barbershop.

Don't touch things that aren't yours

Under no circumstances should you touch your barber's scissors or clippers, especially to pick them up to fix something. "Back off…" says one Arizona-based barber.

Remember: they're barbers—not mind readers

This is a problem most easily solved by bringing in photos of what you like, having a conversation about what is truly possible and then being open to settle for reality. "Most stylists won't give their opinion unless you ask," says one Boston-based stylist. They see and know a lot, so you should probably ask. And when they do give their opinion, it's in your best interest to listen.

Pretend you're at the movies


So please don't text or talk on the phone while someone is cutting your hair. "Nothing is ruder than a client waving you off so they can answer a call while you're in the middle of cutting their hair. If it's an emergency, you can say, 'Excuse me, but I have to take this,'" says a stylist based out of Los Angeles.

You can't change your mind mid-cut

File this under the obvious but, a haircut isn't like a car, a shirt, or even dinner. Once the cut is underway, it's damn near impossible to modify the proceedings.

It's a barbershop, not a bar

Serving bourbon or beer at barbershops is a recent trend, but as it turns out, when all that imbibing leads to you snoring and drooling over everything, it's a bitch to the entire barbershop. Everything in moderation.


This first appeared at Esquire
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11/23/2018 0 Comments

The 5 Biggest Haircut Trends Sweeping NYC This Fall

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​Think of the quintessential New York City girl. Maybe she's waiting in line for a $1 slice of pizza at 2 a.m.,   long glossy black hair tucked into the collar of her faded denim jacket. Or, she's looking down at her phone on the opposite side of the subway platform, with flirty platinum blonde bangs and a warm smile that shatters any misconception that Manhattanites are unfriendly. Any loyal Angeleno will tell you, the world's best hair salons are off the 405, but a real, no-BS New Yorker will counter with: "Have you met my stylist?"
 
Ahead, we're breaking down the five chicest hair trends sweeping The Big Apple this fall. And more than just photo inspiration, you'll find out exactly what you should ask for and how to style it on your own hair texture. So, even if your go-to salon is far from the city that never sleeps — in both location and spirit — take this guide to your next appointment. You'll find yourself with a cut that gives you instant cool-girl vibes.

Choppy Bob
What to ask for:
 A blunt cut that falls at or below your shoulders with invisible layers

Micro Bang Pixie Cut
What to ask for:
 A textured pixie with short, fluttery bangs

Mid-Length Blunt Lob
What to ask for:
 A blunt cut that falls at or below your shoulders with invisible layers

Extra-Long Cut With Face-Framing Layers
What to ask for: Long, gradual layers, plus a soft, face-framing fringe that falls between the chin and cheekbone.

Shaggy Mullet Cut
What to ask for: A shaggy lob with straight-across bangs
​
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11/19/2018

How to Get Milo Ventimiglia’s Hair (and Mustache) From ‘This Is Us’

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​This Is Us is a tearjerker, almost entirely because Milo Ventimiglia’s hair just looks that damn good. (A roster of great actors helps, too.) We put Ventimiglia front and center on our November cover a bit cleaned up by comparison to his small-screen persona—but no less rakish.

Wondering how you can replicate his long locks for yourself? We got some pointers from Justin Virgil Gramelspacher, master barber at Blind Barber in New York City. (You can find him at the East Village and Moxy Times Square locations.) Here’s what Gramelspacher taught us about Ventimiglia’s hair, and, as an added bonus, about his equally renowned mustache, too.

The Kind of Hair You Need

You need to have moderately curly, wavy, or straight hair if you want to replicate this style (though the result will vary from one guy to the next), Gramelspacher says.

“It’ll need to be cut and styled based on your individual texture and density,” he says.

If you’re receding at all, don’t shy away from the look, either: He says that Ventimiglia’s cut works well on both a full or receded hairline.

What Kind of Regimen Does it Require?

You need to get yourself in a barber’s chair every 6-8 weeks in order to properly texturize the hair and reduce any bulk, Gramelspacher says. That seems counterproductive, but if you don’t clean it up as it grows, then you’ll suffer through a year of growth (and awkward hairstyles) until you reach the promised land.

He advises shampooing three times a week—no more, no less—before bed if it gets too dried out after a wash. (“This allows some of your natural oils to return overnight and your hair will be easier to tame in the morning.“)

Always follow a shampoo with conditioner to restore nutrients and softness to your hair after a drying wash. We’re fans of Blind Barber’s shampoo and conditioner.

How to Do You Style It?
“Long hair has to move but you still want it to hold a shape,” Gramelspacher says.
That means you want to avoid sticky or greasy hair products with high hold.

“For a low-commitment approach, comb sea salt spray (Verb Products Sea Spray) or clean-hold gel (Kiehl’s Grooming Solutions Clean Hold Styling Gel) through towel dried hair to set the shape, and let it air dry. Once the hair has dried, run your hands through it repeatedly to break up the stiff bonds that form. Don’t worry, the product will still be there, doing its job invisibly. Follow up with styling cream (V76 Grooming Cream Ultralight Hold) to give weight, nourishment, and separation to the hair.”

If you have thin or thinning hair, you should consider using a blow dryer (after the gel or salt spray, but before the styling cream). Gramelspacher says this is an effective way to increase density and volume.

And if you have curly hair: “Work a generous amount of anti-frizz cream (Living Proof NourishingStyling Cream) through towel-dried hair, and blow dry to activate and relax the curl for a wavier look.”

How to Transition This Cleaned-up Look Into a Grittier Style (like Ventimiglia’s character on This Is Us)

This style is kind of the longest it can be before things look a little too gritty. That being said, you can still grow it longer, but it’s advised that you continue seeing your stylist every 2 months to texturize the hair and clean up the ends—even if you want to look a little less refined. (Again, the goal isn’t to feel awkward during growth.)
How to Replicate Milo’s Mustache
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Mustache maintenance is pretty DIY.
​
“Use an electric trimmer with a number 1 or 2 guard and rake downward, with the grain, along the mustache,” Gramelspacher says. “Repeat until the bulk is even and smooth to the face. Remove the guard and use the bare blade to trim any stray hairs that extend from the bulk along the lip line.”

In this case, less is more.
How to Grow and Maintain a Mustache

This article appeared on Men's Journal
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