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7/13/2020 0 Comments

No Barber? Surfers’ Tips on Making Shaggy Hair Look Cool

This simple advice on shaping, lightening and washing might make you reconsider lopping off your quarantine mop
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ROCKAWAY BEACH BOYS Surfers with decidedly good hair, like Paul Godette (pictured above),
photographed at the legendary spot in Queens, N.Y.
Paul Godette;
Photo: Alec Kugler for The Wall Street Journal
MEN’S HAIR has never been scragglier. During these months of social distancing, professional haircuts have been as rare as unsuccessful Drake singles. But life has changed: With many offices still closed, few men need the meticulously groomed cut that a boardroom requires, and we bet that those who’ve grown fond of their longer locks won’t rush to the barber even as some states open personal-care businesses. For guidance on maintaining a low-key mane, we turned to the legendarily shaggy surfing community.

“Surfers may tell you they don’t care about their hair, but they do,” insisted Ojai, Calif.-based photographer Wyn Herrick, whose coarse brunette curls have turned blonde from years spent in the sea and sun. If you’re more likely to hang out on your couch than to hang ten, don’t worry. Surfers’ outdoorsy, antiestablishment approach can be adapted by most men. Here, the basics:
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Jimmy O’Brien
Photo: Alec Kugler for The Wall Street Journal
Embrace Filth
Don’t shampoo your hair too often, warned Jimmy Pham, a New York City-based photographer and surfer with jet-black, shoulder-length hair. “My hair gets frizzy and bowl-shaped if I use shampoo,” he said, crediting the ocean for giving his stick straight hair a slight wave. “I wash it twice a month—max.” While shampooing twice a month might war with your commitment to hygiene, try reducing washes to every other day for a more casual, less fluffy look.
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Daniel Kent
Photo: Alec Kugler for The Wall Street Journal
​Get Salty
Salt is a key ingredient in good beach hair. Gritty salt wraps around the hair shaft to give it texture. “I like the way it makes everything thicker,” said Michael Kololyan, the co-founder of Locals Surf School in Rockaway Beach, N.Y.
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Those who don’t harness the waves regularly can find plenty of salt-infused hairstyling products, such as the R+Co spray pictured below. A homemade mix works just as well: Combine a handful of salt with water, and spritz using a spray bottle. Just remember to moisturize dry ends with a lubricant like argan oil, said Daniel Kent, a Rockaway Beach-based surfer and woodworker. “You don’t want to look like a surf rat.” Anabel Kingsley, a consultant trichologist and president of hair clinic Philip Kingsley, goes one step further. She advises saturating the hair with cream, oil or fresh water before getting in the sea, saying saltwater makes hair brittle without protection.
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AMBER WAVES Surfers use tricks like argan oil and
skipping shampoo to keep long, shaggy locks looking lustrous
Photo: Alec Kugler for The Wall Street Journal
​Lighten Up
Rather than use chemical, time-sucking Just for Men dye, surfers let their hair speckle gray naturally—or let the sun bleach highlights into it. “All it takes is two weeks in the sun for your hair to lighten up,” said Michael Reinhardt, another co-founder of Locals Surf School, who is known as “Blonde Mike” for his peroxide-white hair color in the summer months. Not everyone’s hair lightens as rapidly as Blonde Mike’s, so if it’s darker or thicker it may take more time or more sunshine.

Of course, not all worker bees have the luxury of endless beach time. To encourage the process, try tinctures with natural lighteners such as chamomile or freshly squeezed lemons. But remember: Just because the sun and lemons are natural brighteners doesn’t mean they’re not damaging. The chemical reaction within the hair is similar to that of bleach, warns Ms. Kingsley. If you must put lemon juice in your hair while out in the sun, “reserve it for the roots to the upper mid length, and comb a protective product through the rest of your hair.” She recommends a hydrating mask.

Shape It Spontaneously
Many surfers cut their own hair once it gets untenably disheveled. “It’s part of [our] image,” said Mr. Herrick, recalling the DIY mentality of 1970s surfers such as George Greenough, whose stringy blonde shag would fit right in with the at-home haircuts people are posting today using the #covidcuts hashtag. “Surfers shaped the boards they rode, and they shaped each other’s hair, too,” said Mr. Herrick.
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When it comes to giving yourself a trim, don’t overthink it, said Queens, N.Y., surfer and hair stylist Bobby Reynolds, who recently lopped off 7 inches of curls on the beach while still in his wetsuit. Use your fingers to estimate length (two fingers stacked equals about 1 inch), taking care around the hairline and nape of your neck. And crucially, don’t rely too heavily on a mirror, which can interfere with hand-eye coordination, he said. Surfers are nothing if not coordinated.
NOT THE SURFING TYPE? / TRY THESE TO GET THE
SEA-SWEPT LOOK FROM THE SAFETY OF YOUR BATHROOM
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Left to right: Verb Shampoo, $18; R+Co Salt Spray, $26;
Pomade, $20; Kevin Murphy Curl Enhancer, $32
Brought to you from The Wall Street Journal
0 Comments

7/11/2020

Men's Medium Messy Hair Tutorial: How to Maintain and Style

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Call it a Mod cut, a shag, a mop top, or just bangs—medium-length, pushed-forward hair is gaining popularity yet again. Douglas Booth (above), Ben Whishaw, and Owen Wilson have all worn it, and these tips will have you primed for the style too.
Requirements for Messy Medium Hair

• Hair should be shorter on the sides (a #1 or #1-1/2 clipper length), with a medium high fade before the top of the head.

• The length of hair up top should be shorter in the back (2 or 3 inches) and get longer toward the hairline in the front.

• Bangs at the forehead should be cut evenly across, and usually long enough so that they fall just above the eyebrow.

• The barber or stylist should work in lots of texture here using point cutting techniques—the more weight that’s taken out of the hair, the more movement the cut will have.

How to Style Messy Medium Hair

1. Start with clean, towel-dried hair.

2. Use a blow dryer on a high-heat setting to achieve the shape you want.

3. Take a small amount of high-hold pomade or clay and work it into the back of the hair, moving forward (target the roots of the hair for maximum control).

You want it to look a little disheveled—and not too precious—when you’re finished.


From Birchbox.com

7/10/2020 0 Comments

Update from Hair by Brian about COVID-19 - Hair Salon Reopening's Still Paused

Hello,

The Mayor announced this afternoon the reopening of personal services (hair salons) is still on pause.

In short:
Personal services such as haircuts, massages, tattoos and body piercing, manicures and pedicures, will be the next groups of businesses considered for reopening and will provide another update on July 15th on the health indicators and other information that will inform the status of further reopening.

I have linked the announcement below.

If you had an appointment scheduled next week, you should have received a separate email from me letting you know I, unfortunately, needed to cancel your appointment.

I will contact those of you who have appointments later in the month if anything changes and your appointment needs to be either cancelled or rescheduled.

Until there is clear information on the reopening of Hair Salons I need to suspend online appointment scheduling through the end of July. As new information is received, this date will be revised.

I am taking every precaution necessary to assure your safety and well-being.

I am available by phone, text, or email if you have any questions or concerns. Or just want to chat.

Thank you again for understanding!
And please stay safe!

- Brian

https://sfmayor.org/article/san-francisco-continues-pause-reopening-most-activities-and-businesses ✂️
0 Comments

7/4/2020

Air-Drying Hair 101: The Best Tips and Products for Your Hair Texture

This is the easiest guide you’ll ever read.
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If I’m being completely honest, it’s taken me literal years to learn how to air-dry my hair. It wasn’t until I accepted the fact that successful air drying requires a cocktail of products (lol, trust me when I say those “air-dry creams” won’t actually give you Selena Gomez–worthy waves on their own) plus a handful of techniques (there’s way more scrunching, gliding, twisting, and smoothing than you’d think), that I was finally able to air-dry my straight-ish, poofy-ish hair at home.
​
Why is why I can genuinely say that learning to air-dry your hair isn’t, in fact, an impossible task, as long as you (a) take your time—which, like, what else are you doing right now?—and (b) follow the right equation for your exact hair texture. And to help you, I rounded up the easiest ways to air-dry everything from straight, fine hair to coarse coils, along with the exact products you need on your team. So put down the hot tools, pour yourself a glass (or three) of wine, and prepare to come out of quarantine with your air-dry routine on lock.
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How to air-dry wavy hair
In theory, naturally wavy hair should be one of the easiest textures to air-dry, but thanks to the fact that not all waves are created equally (@ my super-puffy and undefined-as-hell waves—if you can even call them that), the process definitely calls for a little technique. Here’s what you’ll need:

This content is imported from Instagram. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.
  • Step 1: The more moisture in your hair, the more defined your natural waves will look, so use a lightweight, hydrating shampoo and conditioner filled with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or aloe.
  • Step 2: Detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb, wrap it in a towel for five minutes, then shake it out and let it air-dry for another 15. When it’s still damp, mist on a salt spray to build up some body and grit. (Mist is your key word here. Spritzing too much will just make your hair stiff and crunchy).
  • Step 3: Once your waves are fully dry, rub a quarter-size dollop of styling cream between your fingers, then begin twisting your waves in two-inch sections, working from your ears to the ends, for extra definition and shine.
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How to air-dry coily hair
The key to air-drying dehydrated, pulled-out coils? Adding back crazy levels of moisture and definition throughout the process. Here’s what your setup should look like:
  • Step 1: On damp hair (after washing or re-wetting with a spray bottle), rake a palm full of leave-in conditioner through your coils with your fingers. Hydration is your path to definition, so make sure to coat your hairline, ends, and the nape of your neck.
  • Step 2: Lock in alllll that moisture by smoothing and scrunching an oil throughout your curls (coconut, jojoba, or Jamaican black castor oil is your BFF). Again, make sure you cover every single strand.
  • Step 3: Working in quadrants, rake dollops of cream through your curls, then finger-coil each section to get a corkscrew shape. Keep going until you’ve done your entire head, then sit back, relax, and air-dry.
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How to air-dry fine, flat hair
If you usually rely on a blow-dryer to give your fine, flat hair tons of lift and volume, you’ll love how easy this air-dry routine is. Prepare to get mega volume without all the heat damage:
​
This content is imported from Instagram. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.
  • Step 1: After cleansing with a volumizing shampoo (look for lightweight, strengthening ingredients like keratin or biotin, nothing oil-based!), follow with a conditioner just on your ends. Read: Keep. That. Sh*t. Off. Your. Roots.
  • Step 2: Air-dry your hair for about 20 minutes or until your roots and ends are almost dry. Mist on a volumizing spray—less is always more, here—that’s spiked with polymers that help build volume and hold (aka the secret to getting hella volume without heat).
  • Step 3: Once your hair is 100 percent dry, prepare for a little magic: Lift up three-inch sections and sprinkle a super-fine styling powder (lighter than dry shampoo, stickier than hairspray) underneath along your roots for big-time texture and lift.
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How to air-dry curly hair
If your curls tend to look a little ~fluffy~ and undefined when you air-dry your hair, you need to make sure you’re using leave-in products that build bounce and shape (oh, and some extra shine doesn’t hurt either). Here’s what you gotta know:
  • Step 1: After washing with a sulfate-free shampoo (drying sulfates = the enemy of curls) and moisturizing conditioner, flip your head over and gently scrunch out excess water with a microfiber towel. Yeah, this matters—the fabric cuts down on frizz and keeps your curls clumped.
  • Step 2: Flip your head back up and divide your hair into four sections. Next, rub a lightweight gel between your palms, then gently glide your hands down each section of hair (kinda like you’re praying) to coat both sides of your curls without breaking them apart. Dab a bit of gel over your hairline too.
  • Step 3: Once your curls are 100 percent dry, they’ll be looking a little ramen noodle-y. But trust the process. With a lightweight oil covering your hands, scrunch your hair to break up the “gel cast” (i.e., the crunchy coating) and define your curls.
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How to air-dry straight hair
You know those soft, bendy waves you always see on your Instagram feed? Yeah, you don’t need a flatiron or hair dryer to re-create them—just follow these tricks and air-dry some movement into your straight hair:
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This content is imported from Instagram. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.
  • Step 1: K, this is going to sound weird, but you need to reverse your in-shower routine. Start with conditioner, then follow with a super-gentle shampoo—it’ll help remove any weight from your conditioner without losing the moisture.
  • Step 2: Give your hair a quick towel dry—don’t be afraid to muss it up—then scrunch in a puff of wave-enhancing mousse, tightly twisting one-inch sections of hair, from roots to ends, until your head is covered in twists. Leave ’em alone (no touching, pls) until they’re totally dry.
  • Step 3: Shake out your twists using your fingers, rub a dab of matte pomade over your hands, and gently twirl and rake through the bottom few inches of your hair for a piece-y lewk. Finish by tossing your hair back and forth a few times to help it settle naturally.

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This was found on Cosmopolitan.com

7/1/2020 0 Comments

As the Chair Turns - July 2020

​Hi. Hi.
 
I hope this finds you and yours in a good state of mind, healthy, still washing your hands AND wearing your face masks.  There are still individuals out there who are not taking this pandemic seriously and continue putting the rest of us at risk. The one thing we can do is take the proper safety precautions to protect ourselves and the loved ones in our family groups.

Last week was very confusing.  First we were allowed to reopen earlier than originally targeted then, just days later, the Mayor suspended the next phase reopening AGAIN!   As of this mailing I unfortunately don’t have any updated information on whether or not the tentative July 6th date I gave you last week will allowed either.  We're just going to have to take this one day at a time and I will continue to keep you updated as I learn more.

Since I haven’t seen you for a few months now, it’s been a little bit of a challenge coming up with articles I hope you find interesting or relevant.  It’s our time together and the conversions we have that help me come up with what I share with you each month.  What I do know is that you’re looking a little shaggy and some of you are seeing more “natural” haircolor than you want.  So, until we’re able to be together in person I’m going to continue passing along information I hope you find helpful during these unprecedented times.

Summer’s here and it’s a perfect time to be a little care free with your hairstyling.  Yes, that means you guys, too.   I have a nice guide with helpful tips on Air-Drying you hair.   I also have a ‘messy” tutorial for you guys whose hair has grown out the last few months.  And for those of you who’ve really embraced that shaggy hair, I have a some surfer tips on how to make that hair look cool.

As I mentioned above, these really are unprecedented times.  I hope you are are making time with family members and friends to have some tough, uncomfortable conversations.  I have a YouTube series for you by Emmanuel Acho about race that many white people have never been able to have.  This is just one of many great podcasts and web series now available to help us grow, learn, and challenge our thinking.

That’s just some of what I have for you this month in “As the Chair Turns”.

I’ve said this before.  I want you to know how fortunate I am to have each and every one of you sitting in my chair.  You challenge my thinking and encourage me to grow as a person.  I have missed that, and you, these last few months.  I look forward to the day when we get to be together again.

I am available by email, text or phone if you have any questions or concerns.  Or just want to chat.

Until we meet again…
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What’s Inside This Month

Comprehensive list of COVID-19 guidelines for your next visit to the salon
Air-Drying Hair 101: Tips for Your Hair Texture
Men’s Messy Hair Tutorial
No Barber: Surfer’s Tips on Shaggy Hair Looks
Surfer Hair: Cool Beach Hairstyles
√ Barbicide COVID-19 Certification
Savvy Guide to Curling Iron Sizes and Use
“Follically Challenged”
   * What to know about hair Growth
Episodes: Uncomfortable Conversations with a Black Man
Make-Ahead Breakfast Recipes
The Story of Hair: Surprising and Strange Hair Dye Methods from History
0 Comments
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    Hair by Brian

    My name is Brian and I help people confidently take on the world.

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